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A
"Aiden and his crew are the best: professional, fast, clean and responsive. He charged a fair price and did great work; I'm so happy!

-Tennyson T.

A
"The entire job went really well.
was extremely professional and very helpful with a challenging install. Our foyer is almost 20' high" and a really large glass fixture had to be removed first. He completed the work quickly and safely. I contacted
based on their reviews and was not disappointed. My first call was answered very quickly, an appointment was made within a week and costs were clearly reviewed.
was on time and after seeing the job was spot on with a way to handle the challenges. It was obvious he has a lot of experience working in old homes. It can be really tough finding quality electrical contractors and I'm really pleased to have them on my "A" list. I will definitely have
quote my next project!

-Frank C.

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Local Articles in Fenton

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)
Electrical

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Fenton

A

Rating
Job was accomplished successfully. Management called and e mailed me 2x to make sure they knew what I wanted. A written estimate was provided ahead of the work for my approval. Electrician was prompt and did a good job. Very neat worker and personable.
- julie S.
B

Rating
Bill was very pleasant. He took the time to explain what he was doing. The work was completed in a timely fashion. I did notice after he left that the plug/ switch cover was broken. I would have appreciated him letting me know. My only other concern is that I did not get an invoice. I was told I'd get it in an email that night but it is now the end of the next day and I have not received it.
- Jirina K.
B

Rating
I was happy to see an electrician with such good reviews on Angie's List. Kamau and his helper did a good job on the work. When I contacted him through Angie's List he mentioned that he was booked up a week out, so we set the appointment for 2/19/15. I sent him a list of things that we needed done and then didn't hear back from him until the day before the appointment, when he told me he couldn't do three of things on the list (install wall oven, microwave and range hood). I wished I'd known that before I waited a week.
On the day of the appointment, he called and I was in a meeting, so I called him back about 45 minutes later and he stated that he'd already gone onto another job since he didn't talk to me. Then he said he might make it on our appointment day, but probably the next day. Luckily, we both work from home, so we were here for the appointment on 2/20/15, a Friday.
He showed up the next day on time and ready to go. I walked him around and showed him what we needed. I also left my Shop Vac out on the patio and showed him that. He and his helper got the outdoor lights installed and they look great! He also installed the outlet in the garage and one outside, as well as rewiring the pool pump so it bypasses my old timer, as I asked. The work itself was well done.
I was a little disappointed with his communication. Also, I had to vacuum up 4 messes they left: Under the light out front, the light out back, the outdoor electrical outlet and the worst one was in the garage. Sheetrock dust was everywhere on my workbench, in my tool bags on the floor, etc. They DID do a fine job on the work, but they didn't clean up after themselves at all. I probably would hire Kamau again, because he's a very nice guy and did great work. But I would make sure to state in advance that he would be cleaning up after himself.
- Dustin E.
A

Rating
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was FANTASTIC! Very responsive in setting up the appointment and being up-front with costs. We were originally told we would need two technicians because of the height of this particular ceiling fan, however, when they arrived, they realized it could be done with only one technician so the other one left so we would not be billed for two.
We have definitely found our new electrician and look forward to having them do some work for us in the spring at our other home.
- Matt M.
A

Rating
.Pat is a honest and likable guy, very professional and knowledgeable master of his trade, came to my home when he said he would and performed the tasks that we had agreed upon for a fair price, when I brought to his attention that one of the ceiling fans was not seated properly he sent his helper back the next day to correct. He also brought to my attention a hazardous condition in my electrical breaker box that was not to code which had been done by previous contractor, I am very grateful for his attention to details and look forward to having Pat correct this soon, its great to work with a contractor that you can truly trust . Thanks Pat and crew. pmorelli
- paul M.
A

Rating
I found this electrician through Angie's List and based on good reviews, I decided to give him a call. I called
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
today to see if he can connect a new tankless water heater to the electrical panel and look at the main electrical panel to determine what could be causing my main to trip whenever I turned on the water heater.
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very responsive when I called him and within an hour or so he was already at my apartment with his assistant.
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to connect my new tankless water heater and inspect the electrical panel. It was found that the main 125amp breaker was overheating due to poor connections that were previously installed by others. I am glad that he was able to catch this as it definitely could have been a safety / fire hazard had it not been treated properly. I was able to get the new breaker at Home Depot and
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was quickly able to replace the main breaker without any issue. I now have hot water running again and the comfort of knowing that a faulty breaker was replaced with a new one.
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
charges reasonable prices. I will definitely contact him again for future jobs.


- Juan B.
D

Rating
technician showed late. Went to explore the problem. (Problem : reroute piping that were exposed to freeze to an area where its safe).
At the end he said he will return next day with another plumber to reassess the problem again. Then he charged me for the visit
the sum of $189.
When I spoke to the secretary in the morning, I was not told I would pay a visit fee. And work was supposed to be done at the same time.
No one came by next day. Which delayed repair in my home. And I am at loss of almost $200 bucks. Cheers!
I tried to avoid unscrupulous and unskilled persons but I ended up the trape.
People, be careful of this firm.
- Alami B.
A

Rating
If you looking for a classy, smart, honest, reasonable electrician you can stop right here. My neighbor recommended
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
Contractors as one of the best electricians she has ever worked with, and since I was having trouble getting our electrician to find time for us, I thought I would give them a try. WOW - my neighbor was right. I will never use anyone else. I cannot say enough good things about this family business -- Dad, three sons, and Mom does the books.
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
,
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
's oldest son, who is also a Master Electrician arrived with
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the youngest brother, an apprentice), on time. They set to work immediately on what was a complicated job snaking cable from one end of our house to the other --up to the attic, down to the basement and then back up to the first floor on the other side of the house. They were smart in how they figured out the route, they didn't make a mess, and what mess they did make, they cleaned up immediately. The job was neat, organized and well done. If you are looking for excellence, you will find it with
Fenton Electricians Provider Name Locked
Contractors.
- Lawson A.

All Electricians in Fenton, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Clean Cigarette

1700 East Main Street
Owosso

Advanced Electrical

10252 Brooks Rd.
Lennon

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Things Electronic

5250 conifer dr

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

ANSWER HEATING & COOLING INC

8490 MIDLAND RD
Freeland

ARBOR HOME IMPROVEMENTS

6725 RIVER RD
Flushing

Atmosphere Pro.LLC

10023 Bergin
Howell

Auto Ad Onz

1477 S State Rd
Davison

Bayview Electric LLC

1368 Bone Rd
Fenton

Bedrock Building, Inc.

5136 N. Linden Road
Flint

BELIMO AIRCONTROLS INC

1475 ST LAWRENCE CT
Fenton

Biondo Design & Build

19355 Fry Rd
Northville

Blessing Co

403 S Leroy St
Fenton

Bowen Electric

3089 E Bristol Rd
Burton

Callard Industries

604 S Adelaide

Canton Construction Corp

5914 N Lotz Road
Canton

Carle's Construction

4488 Dillon Rd
Flushing

CARTRIDGE WORLD

PO Box 952
Fenton

Certified Electric Service Inc

320 E Grand Blanc Rd
Grand Blanc

CHAPPLE ELECTRIC LLC

11220 Torrey Rd.
Fenton

CHUCK RANDALL ENTERPRISES

7070 RANDALL DR
Fenton

CLEMENTS ELECTRIC INC

204 S DEAN ST
Bay City

CMI SCHNEIBLE CO

3061 W Thompson Rd
Fenton

Corkins Construction, Inc

2245 Musson Rd
Howell

CORNERSTONE ELECTRIC INC

1248 N Morrish Rd
Flint

COVET SECURITY

14130 IROQUOIS WOODS DR
Fenton

Dan Murphy Building & Design LLC

2870 Weatherly Rd
Howell

DAVE'S ELECTRIC

6311 N M
Mesick

DCC Construction

9100 Lapeer Road
Davison

Diamond Brake & Front End Inc

4670 S Old US 23
Brighton

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Diversified Contractors Inc

10039 Bergin Rd
Howell

Doug's Handyman Service

9170 Bennett Lake Rd
Fenton

ELITE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS INC

11245 HOGAN RD
Gaines

Essexville Electric, Inc.

PO Box 199
Essexville

Evans Electrical Repair

3605 Donnelly
Flint

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Fantasy Flooring and Tile Design LLC

11035 Diana Estates Dr., South

Ferguson Roofing Inc

2015 Moorlands View
Howell

FLINT IGNITION SERVICE

1613 S SAGINAW ST
Flint

FLUSHING ELECTRICAL SVC

5374 JOHNSON RD
Flushing

G&B Painting

485 Bonnie Circle
Howell

GC Contracting Co LLC

3659 Falcons Nest
White Lake

Geek Squad - Best Buy

8487 W GRAND RIVER AVE
Brighton

Gen Pro LLC

2452 Ava Dr
Howell

GENESEE ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 765
Fenton

Goyette Mechanical

3842 Gorey Ave
Flint

Guindon Electric

376 Deer Lane
Oxford

Hartland Electric, LLC

P.O. Box 704
Hartland

Hi-Tech Remodeling

1203 Gordon St
Mount Morris

Hi-Tech Remodeling

1203 Gordon St.
Mount Morris

Hidden Lake Cabinet & Trim LLC

5254 Heath Ave
Clarkston

Hinterman Electric Inc

G5043 Fenton Rd
Flint

HISTORIC LIGHTING RESTORATION

10341 JEWELL LAKE CT
Fenton

Husband For A Day Inc

809 Worchester Dr
Fenton

International RV World Inc

2717 E. Delta Rd.
Bay City

J & K ELECTRIC

4251 MCDOWELL RD
Lapeer

JOHN BOTNER INSTALLATION

8075 LINDEN RD
Fenton

Johnson & Wood Mechanical

2130 Hemphill Rd
Burton

July's Construction

P.O. Box 386
Clio

K & J ELECTRIC

7219 E HIGHLAND RD
Howell

Ken David Electric Inc

3195 Christy Way
Saginaw

LUCAS MECHANICAL LLC

10234 HARTLAND RD
Fenton

M L BAILEY ELECTRIC CO

4591 SKELTON RD
Columbiaville

Matheson Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

4307 S Commerce Rd
Commerce Township

MECHANICAL SERVICES

6380 GREEN RD
Fenton

Metro Electrical Systems

10266 Lapeer Road
Davison

Meyer Electric, Inc.

PO Box 667
Owosso

MINKLER ELECTRIC LLC

959 E HURON AVE
Vassar

morningstar electric

5420 Reid Rd
Swartz Creek

Motor City Builders

2501 S Saginaw St
Flint

NU INSTALLATIONS INC

5304 LOBDELL RD
Fenton

NUECHTERLEIN ELECTRIC

304 LIST ST
Frankenmuth

Palmer Construction

2360 Jolly Oak Rd
Okemos

Paulson's Construction Inc

115 University
Howell

Phase 2 Electric

4750 E Kent Rd
Freeland

Porter & Heckman Inc

3056 Davison Rd
Lapeer

POWER SOURCE ELECTRIC

5092 W Vienna Rd
Clio

Pyro Heating & Cooling Inc

772 Mcpherson St
Howell

R P BOYES ELECTRIC CO

10750 DUNHAM RD
Hartland

Rashid Construction

32905 Northwestern Hwy
Farmington Hills

RIVIERA ELECTRIC INC

1363 ROSE CENTER RD
Fenton

RoMac Home Maintenance & Repair

148 Hi Hill Dr
Lake Orion

ROTH ELECTRIC LLC

2130 E HEMPHILL
Burton

RS DALEY LLC

17195 Silver Parkway #329
Fenton

S&B RENOVATIONS AND REMODELING LLC

15220 Bush Lake Dr
Holly

Salvatore Contracting LLC

5172 Stimson rd
Davison

SMITH-ROSS CO

13090 ROHN RD
Fenton

Soma Electric

8169 Fieldcrest Dr
Brighton

Starving Electrician

9157 tavistock
Plymouth

Sure Work LLC

6121 west grand river
Brighton

T & D TECHNOLOGIES

4023 S. Old U.S. Highway 23
Brighton

TOWN & COUNTRY ELECTRIC INC

2998 N EUCLID AVE
Bay City

TRI CITY CONSTRUCTION

5417 FENTON RD
Flint

Triple A Service Network

324 W Grand River Ave
Brighton

Trusted Improvement

24300 Catherine Industrial Dr.
Novi

UPRIGHT ALTERATIONS LLC

PO BOX 310922
Flint

VAN LEUVEN & ASSOC

1274 S HOLLY RD
Fenton

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WEBER ELECTRIC

1008 N OAK ST
Fenton

West Oakland Builders

1081 S Hacker Rd
Brighton

Wizard Electric

2479 S Sheridan Rd
Caro

Wolverine Electrical Service

11860 Curwood Dr
Grand Blanc

WOLVERINE MECHANICAL INC

1255 BUTCHER RD
Fenton

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