Cedar Landscaping Mulch

in Cedar, MI

Local Articles in Cedar

backyard landscape with economy mulch

Mulch and Topsoil

Mulch can be a lot of different things, but at its core it exists as a material that is applied to landscaping, walking paths and flower beds for aesthetic purposes, to suppress weed growth, retain moisture and supply nutrients to soil through decay. Topsoil is the nutrient-rich, uppermost layer of soil that is ideal for gardening and planting.

Dark mulch by deck
Mulch & Topsoil

Adding mulch to your landscape design plan can help plants grow, but how much does mulch cost? Should you buy mulch by the yard or the bag? Read to find out.

You should check your mulch for compaction about once a month, says McWilliams. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Robert P. of Boston)
Mulch & Topsoil, Landscaping

Before you put down fresh mulch around your plants, there are a few steps to take. One highly rated provider shares 10 steps to prepare for fresh mulch.

pros and cons of rubber mulch
Mulch & Topsoil

Dear Angie: I recently put down recycled rubber as mulch for my front flower bed. How reliable and sturdy is the rubber mulch compared to wood chips?

Landscapers mulch to moderate soil temperature, conserve moisture, suppress weeds and to add organic matter to the soil as the shredded bark breaks down.
Mulch & Topsoil

Looking to add some mulch to your landscaping? Highly rated mulch pros from across the country talk about the different types of mulch.

Angie's Answers

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I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


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One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.

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1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/build-yourself/117273d1230307978-stump-grinder-questions-stumpgrinderred.jpg

You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

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'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Mulch Delivering reviews in Cedar

A

Rating
Great job. These guys exceeded our expectations. Started the job as promised, never missed a day, even when it rained. Finished the job in 11 working days (one day early). Always pleasant and professional. We are both a bit fussy (especially my wife!) but we couldn't be more pleased. They even brought us brownies! We'd be happy to show off our project to anyone. Thanks to
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, Bill,
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and
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.
- Teresa S.
B

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I was notified promptly of delays due to weather and even though there were delays it was only one day since they worked through the weekend to catch up. They showed up on time and reviewed the work to be completed before they started. At the end of every day they cleaned up the worksite even though they was still more work to be done. Upon completion they reviewed all aspects of the installation and work performed. Demonstrated how sprinkler zones were installed. Finally, they reviewed credits and adjustments for last minute changes that were made based upon my own request. The work was done very well and they left a very clean worksite before, during and after.
- Steven S.
N

Rating
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listened well and provided a design that more than met my needs. She was very responsive and our meetings were always scheduled when it was convenient for me. Both
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and her landscaping partner were very professional. I love the results!
- JANE S.
A

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Navid and his crew did an amazing job. Our house was built four years ago. The grass was actual laid down the week of the Winter Storm in 2011! The builder never properly finished the drainage or extended the property to fully make use of the land. When I called Navid in (as I am a repeat customer), I told him exactly what I wanted. He told me what could and could not be done. He does not play games because he knows his business. Whatever he says he will give you, expect more because he gives you more! For example, my wife and I decided to go with a brick/stone based retaining wall. The wall was originally going to be 2.5ft tall. When the crew came in, it had to be a bit deeper and the soil and stones to fill the wall was substantially greater than expected. Did Navid charge me a penny more - no? He charged me exactly what he quoted me. Did the quality suffer - absolutely not. It turned out to be stunning.

The grass is the greenest on the block. The
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appeal of the landscape and all the flowers and trees planted on the property make it look like a lush garden compared to a dinky backyard. Our deck, a three tier patio had concrete slab. Navid planned on putting pavers in. However, between the grass and existing concrete there was going to be a three inch gap. Navid worked with my wife and I to make dull look luxurious and rich - for practically nothing. Stonework was done in hours by his crew of experts. Navid gets the best quality materials and stands by his work. He did work for my wife and I in 2013. He even pedicured that existing work to make sure it was in tip top shape by pouring some new mulch down and re-purposing things to fit with our new landscape design.

The project took four days. There were anywhere between three crew members and eight crew members here working. These guys are respectful, professional, talented, and hard-working. Navid is an artistic genius and his exemplary work speaks for itself and his companies reputation.
- Jack H.
A

Rating
Cedar Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
and his crew hand dug the entire project. They removed the railroad ties (a feat in itself since they were extremely heavy) and dug into the hillside to form a terraced base to support landscaping blocks. The steep slope they worked on was full of bedrock, gravel and large rocks, heavy clay soil, and "the most snake holes" they had ever run across. They built up the foundation with the blocks and filled in the new area with very small pea-sized gravel, which when compacted acts as a solid service. In order to bring the different sized gravels down to the project area,
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had to haul the gravel in a trailer down an extremely steep driveway by carefully going down backwards. He did a great job! When you meet
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, you can't help but like his happy and positive personality and have confidence in his solution for your problem. His crew was very respectful of both our family and of their boss. We requested some additional work, which he gladly agreed to do by just adding labor costs. I would definitely hire him again. In fact, he is doing some work for us later this fall. I might mention that he was a couple weeks behind when he said the project would be started, but that was because there had been a rainy spell, which meant delays for whatever project he was currently working on. He gives you his best, which is excellent.
- Patty S.
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we've worked with
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before, and this time was as good an experience as before. He was on time, did the job quickly and well. Both the job and his clean-up afterwards were excellent. If we need him again, we will gladly give him a call.
- Donald C.
A

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We ordered two yards of driveway gravel to help limit erosion on a steep drive. Seattle Sawdust gave us a good quote and promised to send the "small" truck to see if they could drop the gravel at the top of the drive so we could spread it downhill rather than trying to haul it to the top of the drive. "Small" truck turned out to be too large to get up the drive, but the driver worked with us and we did the drop in a way that minimized work and kept the drive passable. On-time, totally professional, no problems.
- Geoff D.

All Landscaping Mulch in Cedar, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A+ Snow Removal & Landscaping

267 N E Silver Lk Rd
Traverse City

Accurate Cut And Landscape

10080 Rentsman Rd.
Cedar Springs

All Terrain

801 S. Garfield Rd
Traverse City

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Good Harbor Property Service

538 second st
Traverse City

Green Side Up Landscape Co.

1706 Como Lake Dr
Greenville

Northern Michigan Hardwoods Inc

5783 Charlevoix Ave
Petoskey

Northern Paradise Property Mgnt & Maintence

3282 Lamp Post ln
Traverse City

Ridge Run Landscapes, LLC

PO Box 3019
Traverse City

Scotts LawnService

6575 Arrow Dr
Sterling Heights

Touch of Green Landscaping LLC

13103 Shaner Ave NE
Cedar Springs

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