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Local Articles in Mount Airy

fresh deck stain worth home improvement cost
Hardware & Home Improvement Stores

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Hardware & Home Improvement Stores

Quality power tools, ladders and ratchet sets aren’t just for the professionals. Handy homeowners should spend their time and money on tools that work.

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Architects & Building Design, Billiard Table Repair, Billiard Table Sales, Builders - Homes, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Closets, Entertainment/Parties, Epoxy Flooring, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Interior Design & Decorating, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Stereo & Home Theater Systems, TV Sales, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite

Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Mount Airy


Troublesome from ordering through Window and Door special services, product received damaged. Was encouraged to installed when the installer arrived with the doors and tube of wood filler. In fairness to them it the damage was repairable and our need to get the doors installed was paramount. Would not use Special Services at
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
again, the installer
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Screens did a exceptional job, highly recommend.
- Steve H.

Excellent response on delivering needed materials. Great people working in the store to help with products. Questions answered.
- casey B.

I paid for Five Slab stones. Four of them to be installed in the future, one was for my daughters bathroom. He never completed my daughter’s bathroom after ten months of promising over and over again that the stone was being fabricated and he kept the money for the four other slabs. This Guy should be a Story book writer with the amount of excuses he will give you. Not an Honest man in my opinion, He took me for about $10K. I will be taking legal actions against this wonderful man.
- Jeffrey M.

Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
always comes through for my companies concrete jobs every time I need concrete. I've used
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
for many years on various projects. Also, used
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
's services at my own home. I highly recommend
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
- Benjamin G.

End result was excellent! Some steps along the project path were a bit rough, but we successfully worked through them. I believe the value for the cost was very good.
- Mikel S.

Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
set up firm MJN contracting pool/fence specialists the best people I ever had on time and work and advise were above excellent 30
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
ave Seekonk mass 02771,508 336 8697
- john M.

I met with
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
at the State Fair and liked the new
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
windows they had on display. I sent him an email a couple days later for a quote on the windows. He never responded.
A month later a manager sends me an email asking how my experience was. I tell him what happened and he apologizes for the mix-up, but still doesn't run the quote. What kind of business is this? It feels like something fishy is going on with their sales process.
We haven't had similar problems with other lumber yards in Minneapolis.
- Matthew J.

I visited their location a few times to go over details with
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
. They came out and took templates when the base cabinets were in. They were ready to install a week later as requested. They had to wait for us just a little bit. My walls were not easy as I have one angled and one wrap around counter to do. The fabrication was great!
Mount Airy Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
even went above and beyond and suggested I add a piece to the backsplash of a cabinet that made the cabinets look even better. Thank you!
- Catherine D.

Hardware Stores in Mount Airy, MD

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


Mount Airy


Mount Airy

84 Lumber Company

1690 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd


1312 S MAIN ST
Mount Airy

Acme Safe & Lock

3222 M St NW

American Sealers

4457 Edan Mae CT

At Your Door Floor Store

17617 Redland Rd

Athruz Inc

12108 Dumfries Rd


PO BOX 832
Mount Airy



Barbera Contractors llc

26310 Johnson Dr

Betty List


Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

C&L Painting & Repairs

324 Kirby Street

C-Walls Construction LLC

PO Box 779
College Park

Carlyle & Anderson

17000 Berlin Tpke



Click Cabinets

1615 Ludtington St

Congressional Contracting Inc

1865 mooney drive

Couser Supply Inc

PO Box 47153
Windsor Mill

D&J Home Services LLC

2129 Spencerville Road

Design Contracting INC

8718 Village SQ Drive

Designs by Farah

394 Maple Ave E

DirectBuy Club of Southern Maryland

3320 Noble Pond Way Ste 104

Dominion Design Associates

201 N Fairfax Street

Elite Builders

5591 Rowser Drive

Elite Development

4401 Connecticut Ave NW



Fireside Stone & Patio

76 Frederick Rd
Ellicott City

Frenchporte LLC

4015 Oliver St
Chevy Chase

Goddard Remodeling, LLC

4141 N. Henderson Rd.

Hang Time Tools

On line store

Hartwell Design

2414 Douglas St NE #102

Home Air Services Inc.

12288 Wilkins Ave



Home Depot

2421 Old Taylor Rd

Home Depot - Annandale

6555 Little River Trnpke

Home Depot - Dale City

14025 Foulger Sq

Home Depot - Gaithersburg

15740 Shady Grove Rd

Home Depot - Silver Spring

2300 Broadbirch Dr
Silver Spring

IED painting services

6335 landover rd

J.C.Construction Co.

12705 Dara Dr.

JFR General Contracting Corporation Inc

2408 Evans Dr
Silver Spring

JLGF Services LLC

8029 Pinnacle Ridge Dr.

JP General Contractor

1604 Indiana Ave

K6 Rendering

12620 Lake Normandy Lane


Chevy Chase

Lansing Building Products

4251 Forbes Boulevard

Lansing Building Products

7401 Fullerton Road

Leveille Home Improvement Consultants Inc

18761 N Frederick Rd

Loudoun Lumber Co Inc

121 N Bailey Ln

Lowe's Co Inc - Waldorf

2525 Crain Hwy

Lowe's Of Laurel

14300 Baltimore Ave

Manhattan Production Painting

Silver Spring

Marin's Painting

11808 Lusbys Lane

Mercer Carpet One Floor & Home

26 W Main St

Metal Supermarkets

7120 Golden Ring Road

Mid S Builders LLC

15521 Kruhm Rd


28 Castle Ct

Modern Kitchen & Home Solutions

47100 Community Plaza

MP Plus

11406 Applegrath way


1312 S MAIN ST
Mount Airy

Neville Interiors LLC.

3523 Napier St
Silver Spring

NRC Flooring Inc


P&C Construction Service LLC

2602 Arts Dr
Fort Washington

PAC Construction

7345 McWhorter PL Suite 100

Pinkney Services

143 Kennedy St. SW


19200 Chennault Way

Premier Floors Inc

45714 Oakbrook Ct


6625-B Iron Place

Reeb Millwork Corp

1315 Goldsboro Rd

Reico Kitchen & Bath

7500-B Leesburg Pike

Renewed Tub & Tile Refinishing LLC

13102 Larchdale Rd Apt 14

Saund Builders Inc

5416 Colchester Meadow Lane

Shenandoah Shutters

2800 Cofer Rd

Shower Door Experts

3712 Jefferson Pike

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stefan Home Service

5901 Sheraton Cir.

Stock Building Supply

10589 Redoubt Rd.


Silver Spring

Sun Brite Supply of Maryland

16620 Oakmont Avenue

TAD Constructions

731 Tonquin PL

The Back Door

2711 Dorr Avenue

Top Locksmith Service

1620 E. Jefferson St.



Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

Vienna Glass Co

7873 Coppermine Dr


4550 Rhode Island ave.

WAA Construction LLC

12111 centerhill st

Winston's Gutter Service

4222 Howard Ave


11910 Parklawn Dr

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