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B
" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

A
"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Lutherville Timonium

A

Rating
was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.
A

Rating
I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.
A

Rating
He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!
- LAURA M.
A

Rating
Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.
A

Rating
My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.
A

Rating
I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.
- FLORIAN S.
A

Rating
returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.
A

Rating
Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Lutherville Timonium, MD

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Plumbing Inc

3502 Taney Rd
Baltimore

1~866~PLUMBER

406 Tollgate Road

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A R Crowell Plumbing

906 Montgomery St
Laurel

A W Smith & Son Inc

8204 Peach Orchard Rd
Baltimore

A.M. Builders

11962 Queen St
Fulton

AAction Home Repairs

8324 Veterans Hwy
Millersville

AAD Mechanical

P.O. Box 543
Pasadena

Abend Plumbing And Heating LLC

407 Bon Air Ave
Brooklyn

ABLY PLUMBING

11 C windmill chase
Sparks Glencoe

Accel Plumbing and Heating

14029 Monticello Dr
Cooksville

Additions Etc LLC

2513 Steel Ave
Edgemere

AFFORDABLE PLUMBING SOLUTIONS

PO BOX 714
Finksburg

AFTERNOON PLUMBING LLC

1315 conquistador drive
Westminster

Ahmed Construction LLC

5315 Liberty Heights Ave
Baltimore

AIRPRO MECHANICAL SERVICES

3351 CORRIDOR MARKET PLACE
Laurel

AJ Michaels

4512 York Rd
Baltimore

All About Plumbing LLC

9520 Berger Rd
Columbia

ALL PRO SERVICE

PO BOX 115
Davidsonville

All Service Plumbing & Drain Cleaning Inc.

240 Michelle Circle
Millersville

All Trades Building and Construction LLC

PO Box 765 Fort Meade
Hanover

Ambassador Services Inc

10330 S Dolfield Rd
Owings Mills

American Mold & Restoration

3540 Crain Hwy
Bowie

Anthony L Parrino II Plumbing

Po Box 579
Jarrettsville

Apple Plumbing & Heating Inc

90 Aileron Ct
Westminster

Arctic Air Solutions LLC.

P.O. Box 19925
Baltimore

Arctic Plumbing & Air

766 State Route 3 N
Gambrills

Armored Basement Waterproofing

9942 Bird River Rd
Baltimore

Arundel Cooling Heating & Electrical Co Inc

707 Nursery Rd
Linthicum Heights

AT plumbing

8222 Brushyridge rd 1-d
Laurel

Atlantic Mechanical LLC

6615 Reisterstown Rd
Baltimore

AURORA PLUMBING

Baltimore

Bailey's Plumbing & Drain Sevice

2028 Puritan Terrace
Annapolis

Basement Systems USA

2092 E Old Philadelphia Rd
Elkton

BASEMENT UNLIMITED

1430 Galena Rd
Essex

Ben Franklin Plumbing LLC

4219 Hanover Pike Ste 1A
Manchester

BENJAMIN FRANKLIN PLUMBING

Box 580
Jarrettsville

Best Deal Home Improvement LLC

43 S PAULA ST
Laurel

Best Value Property Solutions Inc

15900 Sherwood Ave
Laurel

BIBB-HENRY ALBERT CO

6 CHURCH LN
Pikesville

Bill's Superior Plumbing

920 Hepburn Ln
Bel Air

BINDER PLUMBING & HEATING INC

8612 OLD HARFORD RD
Parkville

Blue Dot Services - 8554

125 Industry Ln
Forest Hill

BMC Services LLC

3601 Commerce Dr Ste 108
Halethorpe

Bogan's Plumbing / PlumbCrazy

1302 Continental Dr
Abingdon

Boshoff Plumbing

1503 Old Eastern Ave
Baltimore

Boxer Construction LLC

612 Highland Av
Towson

BPS Plumbing LLC

12204 Glenbauer Rd
Kingsville

Bruce Solomon Plumbing, Heating & Air

12452 Owings Mills Blvd
Reisterstown

Buddy's Pluming LLC

6425 Woodbine Rd
Pasadena

BUSY SERVICE INC

24211 Laytonsville Rd
Gaithersburg

C Tutt Plumbing

8272 Streamwood Dr
Pikesville

C&J HOME IMPROVEMENT

5409 Belle Vista Ave.
Baltimore

CHAMPION PLUMBING AND HEATING

100 AQUEDUCT CT
Forest Hill

Charles J Kahl & Sons

4125 Cliffvale RD
Nottingham

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

CLIPPER PLUMBING & DRAIN CLEANING

14 SHOREHAM CT
Nottingham

Cobra Plumbing Services

PO Box 591
Abingdon

Coldwright Plumbing & Heating

503 Garnett Rd.
Joppa

Contractors For Less

8238 Georgia Ave
Silver Spring

Cooper Restoration & Remodeling. LLC

2017 Bloomingdale Rd.
Queenstown

Cor-Lei, Inc. Plumbing and Heating

8114 Quarterfield Road
Severn

CORBIN FUEL CO

33 ELLENDALE ST
Bel Air

Croal Construction Inc

4 Brookebury Dr
Reisterstown

D and L Plumbing

Owings Mills

Dan Nichols Contractor

5777 White Rock Road
Sykesville

DANNY CONSTRUCTION COMPANY

2603 E Northern Pkwy
Baltimore

Dean's Right Time Plumbing

6874 Caravan Ct
Columbia

Disaster Response Inc

8200 Greensboro Dr

DLD Mechanical Services, LLC

11444 Glen Arm Rd
Glen Arm

Drain Chief

712 Chestnut Hill Rd
Forest Hill

Drain Rite LLC

P.O. Box 613
Linthicum

Drain Sights LLC

311 6th Ave
Baltimore

Dynamic Plumbing & Heating

2912 bristol channel ct

Ed's plumbing

7990 quarter field rd

EMA Contracting, LLC

213 N. Union Ave.
Havre De Grace

EMB HOMES LLC

PO BOX 25707
Baltimore

Enrgize

Owings Mills

FDR Construction

263 Cape St John rd
Annapolis

Fitz Mechanical Inc

6311 Harford Rd
Baltimore

Fitz's Home Services LLC

5209 Reisterstown Road
Baltimore

FORSTER PLUMBING COMPANY

4910 HARFORD RD
Baltimore

FPG Contracting Inc

12138 Central Ave
Mitchellville

Gabe's Plumbing Inc, Home Improvement

8894 Foxborough Dr. #3D
Savage

Galaxy Plumbing & Drain

6100 Collinsway Rd
Catonsville

Giddings Contracting

935 Imperial Ct
Halethorpe

Glenoak Plumbing Inc

12611 Harewood Rd
Baltimore

Greer Water Works Inc.

6869 Archibald Drive
Glen Burnie

GSmulti-services

12 National Dr
Essex

Hague Quality Water of Maryland

814 E College Pkwy
Annapolis

Harbor & Waterford Corp.

6012 Harford Road
Baltimore

Harbor Kitchen Design

6012 Harford Rd
Baltimore

Hayes Construction

14307 Jarrettsville Pike
Phoenix

Henry W, Blake Plumbing & Heating

5024 Hornago Ave
Perry Hall

HOHENSTEIN PLUMBING & HEATING INC

3335 E JOPPA RD
Parkville

Home Contractors Plus

8402 Quill Point Dr
Bowie

Honest Abe Plumbing Heating & Cooling

7095 Milford Industrial Rd
Pikesville

Howard County Plumbing Service

1174 Balsam Circle
Eldersburg

Hunny Do LLC

5520 Groveland Ave
Baltimore

HVAC Direct Heating and Cooling

11 American Ct
Catonsville

IMPROVEMENT ZONE LLC

St Johns Drive
Annapolis

Innovative Construction & Engineering

300 Niners Priviate Rd
Westminster

J Dietrich and Sons Plumbing Inc.

1642 A Trappe Church Rd.
Darlington

J R Lee Home Improvements, LLC

111 Horizon Dr
Millersville

J&C Home Improvement & Remodeling

8603 Jolly Lane
Fort Washington

James Contracting Inc

2911 Constellation Way
Finksburg

JBL Brothers

3521 Hiss Ave
Parkville

JC Handyman Services

2726 Superior Ave
Parkville

JJ Plumbing and Electrical

653 209th st
Pasadena

JM Stephens Plumbing & Heating

8115 McDonogh Rd
Pikesville

Johnson Home Preservation and Development

15 Straw Hat Road
Owings Mills

JP General Contractor

1604 Indiana Ave

Jwerner Contracting

10 First Ave Marley
Glen Burnie

kakes plumbing and mech. inc.

29 north main street
Port Deposit

Kargmans Inc

10429 Reisterstown Rd
Owings Mills

Kat Construction Services, LLC

2108 Emmorton Park Rd
Edgewood

L J Butler Plumbing

5862 Bel Air Rd
Baltimore

Lauricella Construction

514 Burnside St.

lavender&company llc

1613 rosedale heights avenue

Len The Plumber

1552 Ridgely St
Baltimore

Leon Builders LLC

2750 North Rosedale Street
Baltimore

Link Mechanical

306 Patliegh Rd
Catonsville

Liquid Assets LLC

4312 Winners Cir
Belcamp

lucky irish plumbing

201 Bentley Hill Dr
Reisterstown

M A Cashman Plumbing & Heating

8515 Green Spring Ct
Ellicott City

M B NICHOLS CONTRACTING

1650 CROFTON BLVD SUITE # 16
Crofton

Mahon Plumbing Inc

6824 Fort Smallwood Road
Curtis Bay

Mark Brew Plumbing & Heating Inc

13419 Clarksville Pike
Highland

MAYES PLUMBING & HEATING

638 CECIL AVE
Millersville

McAllister Plumbing Inc

600 Sandy Rdg Dr
Glen Burnie

Melroy Plumbing & Heating, Inc.

6537 BALTIMORE NATIONAL PIKE
Catonsville

Metcalf Plumbing Service, LLC

4811 Leeds Avenue
Halethorpe

MH Construction, Inc

PO Box 124
Linthicum Heights

Michael & Son Svc Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Michael & Sons Service Inc

6420 Erdman Ave
Baltimore

Michael Runk Plumbing & Heating

401 West Old Liberty Rd.
Sykesville

MJ Home Services LLC

61 wishing rock rd
Pasadena

Mr Rooter Plumbing & Heating

3701 Commerce Dr
Baltimore

Mr. Handyman of Northern Baltimore County

11436 Cronridge Dr
Owings Mills

Mr.PlumberHeatingandAir

2 Blinker ct
Middle River

MTS Plumbing & Heating Inc

20030 Cameron Mill Rd
Parkton

MYERS HANDYMAN CO LLC

2375 Duvall Rd
Woodbine

Naumann Plumbing, LLC

2131 Espey Court Suite 9
Crofton

Naylor's Plumbing Heating & AC

831 Wesley Rd
Finksburg

New Age Plumbing & Mech. LLC

268 N Main St
Port Deposit

Norris Plumbing Services

7702 Gaither Road
Sykesville

NV Care

3605 oakmont Avenue

O'Brian's Plumbing & Heating

2 Barnstable
Owings Mills

Pat the Plumber

PO Box 43085
Nottingham

PAUL DAVIS RESTORATION

1301 Enterprise Ct
Bel Air

Paul Davis Restoration of Greater Baltimore

10715 Red Run Boulevard
Owings Mills

Petro Home Services

8900 Citation Rd
Essex

Plumb Cheap Inc

102 Mountain RD
Linthicum Heights

Plumley the Plumber

2131 Espey Ct Ste 7
Crofton

Plumrite Discount Plumbing

3422 Tewkesbury
Abingdon

Prime Plumbing

1021 Stewart Ln
Glen Burnie

PuertoEcuador

3642 Ellerslie Ave
Baltimore

Quality Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

508 Dover Rd
Glen Burnie

R. Brown Plumbing & Heating

852 meadow heights lane
Arnold

R. Hudson & Sons

5605 Waterloo Rd
Ellicott City

RCS Plumbing LLC

P.O. Box 11433

Referred By Renovators Inc

1494 Governor Bridge Rd
Davidsonville

Rice Plumbing & Heating Inc

PO Box 656
Parkton

River Breeze Services, LLC

11436U Cronridge Drive
Owings Mills

Rock Solid Hardscaping

115 Wight Avenue
Hunt Valley

Rommel Cranston Service

601 Nursery Road
Linthicum Heights

Ron's Plumbing, LLC

2430 Zeiglers Outlet Road
Taneytown

Rooter-Man of Baltimore

6902 Harford Road
Parkville

Russell R. Dwyer, Inc.

8377 Jumpers Hole Rd
Millersville

Saffer Plumbing & Heating

8925 Old Harford Rd
Parkville

SCHAEFER MECHANICAL SERVICES INC

620 OLD WESTMINSTER PIKE
Westminster

Singh Construction

206 Back River Neck Rd
Essex

Specialized Heating & Cooling Services

200 S. Rock Glen Rd.
Baltimore

Stellar Construction & Labor LLC

6400 Bayberry Ct
Elkridge

Stormwater Facilities, Inc

742 Cecil Avenue N
Millersville

T & T Drain Cleaning

Beaumont Ave
Baltimore

The Handy-Man

5600 Overlook court
White Marsh

The John E. Ruth Co.

5621 Old Frederick Road
Catonsville

The PLUMBER Guys

PO Box 44463
Nottingham

Thomas & Thomas Homeprovement

3704 Old Milford Mill rd

TL Back Plumbing

2817 Manoff Rd
Halethorpe

TONY LABATA ASSOCIATES

232 N. CAREY ST, SUITE 1
Baltimore

Universal Maintenance

65173 Seventh Road

Vince Marino Plumbing & Heating Inc

2907 Clubhouse Rd
Finksburg

W WEDMORE PLUMBING

9707 REDWING DR
Perry Hall

Williams Contractor

2428 Edmondson Ave
Baltimore

WILLOUGHBY PLUMBING SERVICES INC

6203 PATRICK DR
Sykesville

Worldwide corp

2126 Aisquith St.
Baltimore

X-press Contracting.com LLC

PO Box 9044
Dundalk

Zero handyman Services

4346 Shamrock Ave
Baltimore

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