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Finksburg Hardware Stores from people just like you.

"Materials and dumpster were delivered on the 17th. On the 20th, when no workers had arrived by 11AM, I called Customer Service to find out what was happening. " In short, the contractor they had assigned my project to had taken another job, and neglected to tell . So now I have a driveway filled with aa 40 yd. dumpster and 28 squares of siding. Late in the day I hear from the (HD) project manager that a crew will be here at 9AM on the 27th to start work. On the 27th the crew of two shows up to "survey" the job at 10AM. They walk around the house, take inventory of the delivered materials and tell me that they'll be back in a week to start. I said, "what"? You are supposed to start today. They said that they had another job to finish before they could do that. I contacted the Project Manager an expressed my unhappiness. He told me that they hear a "few hours" of work left on the other project,and wanted to know if they could spend half days on my house, ehile the finished up the other project. I unhappily agreed and we proceeded. In short order it was clear that this crew of two was both insufficient and slow. I complained again to HD. The next day HD called and said that a 4 man professional crew would show up at my home the following Monday and be there until the job was done. Generally that is "finally" what happened. I had custom sized railing that had to be removed to do the siding. The first crew did that and lost all of the hardware. HD replaced all of this railing at their cost. The job finally finished about October 4 - so nearly 8 weeks past schedule. Excuse, after excuse, after excuse permeated my conversations with the Project Manager. It was like he told me anything he could to calm me down. I finally challenged him, asking him if he was lying to me or just incompetent. HD did give my a 10% discount for all the trouble. That's nice, but they have lost this customer for good. I will never recommend Contract Services to any one. I now take my business to Lowes.

-Joseph M.

"This review involves the set up of the installation of carpet at for our home, not the actual install from the contractor. This review is" about . We wanted to order carpet to be installed. Went to #6514, , TX. The first employee I approached for carpet samples, , did not know how to btain the samples I wanted. (they were not in the store.) She actually did not even try with her computer. I left. Later in the year on 08/26/2015, I asked another employee, Bill how to obtain the carpet samples. There was a special for reduced install carpet costs and also for 3 free 8"x8" samples at this time. He did not know anything about the free sample offer and he could not figure out how to order the samples on the website. He then became rude and abrupt and passed me off to another employee, . While was polite, he also could not figure out how to order the samples online that I needed. I went home, got on the same website and discovered for myself how to order the samples that I needed. I had to pay for them though, because the employees did not know how to get the free samples for me. Fine. Ordered the carpet. Measuring service was fine. Contractor was good. Carpet installed. Looks great. The complaint here is about the 3 employees at the store who did not know how to complete the most BASIC task on their own website. How to order or get carpet samples for customers. People cannot choose carpet from a picture online or a sample at the store which is under different lighting and the sizes of which were about 1/2" wide by 2" long. Also, sadly, Bill was rude and abrupt with us. I DO NOT recommend going to in , TX for flooring. The skills and service are lacking, especially computer skills. This is the second time we have ordered flooring/installation at a . The first time was in Pasadena, TX and even worse. We have learned our lesson and will shop elsewhere for projects such as this. When I contacted 's main number, they would not or could not provide me with a physical mailing address so that I could let corporate know of this issue. That, in my opinion reflects poorly on 's concern for customer feedback. Thx.

-Lisa C.

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Fall home pumpkin gourd bucket outdoors autumn display house

Schedule any indoor painting you need done. Professional painters aren’t as busy in September, and the weather is usually ideal for leaving windows open for ventilation.

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Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

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Garage Doors, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Organization - Home & Garage

An investment in a garage door can range from a few hundred dollars for a new opener, to a few thousand dollars for a custom-designed door.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Finksburg


Worst window installers I have ever seen.
These were for a condominium in Nashville. I am on the BOD
for the Association and has been recommended by the complex manager
to many of the owners, primarily because he is the cheapest.
Many owners had complained to me about the work ...More being done so
I had them install some windows on a couple of my own units just to test them out.
First thing; they never called and told me when they
were actually coming. One day I was in a unit working and I heard a big crash
outside. I open the door and they were outside tearing out my old windows…they
never called or even knocked on the door first! They were in a big rush and
wanted to get things done very fast.
The first window they installed had broken glass and I asked
them not to use it. They installed it anyway and said they would come back and
replace the glass later. Why would you install a broken window in the first
place? They did come back a few weeks later and replaced the glass.
They never put any insulation between the new windows and the
open spots in the wall jam.
They did a quick and horrible caulking job around the windows
using colors that did not match. They also left big holes in the caulk for air
to blow through. I had to tear out and re caulk every window.
They never took any measurements and used the same size
window on all 5 that I had done. Not all are exactly the same, some are a inch or
two off.
One window jam was not square, and they just screwed the
window in any way without using any shims to square it up. The window is now
the same uneven shape as the jam and does not close properly. Another window was over an inch two short for
the opening and they did not realize that until it was installed. It had over
one inch gap left between the window and the wall. I knew that all they were going to do was fill
it with a ton of messy caulk, so told them to stop and just leave. I had to finish
the job myself by reframing out the entire window with molding.
They do not clean off any of the manufacture sticker residues
from the glass. I have had to help other owners use ladders to climb up and
clean the sticky mess off themselves.
- David H.

Supply had exactly what I wanted in the way of corrugated sheet metal for my custom outdoor shower. The representative who took the order could not have been nicer or more professional. The problem was the shipping. The wrong order was delivered. My order was lost. Finally, a month later, CBS's shipping brokers told me ...More that the correct corrugated metal sheeting had been found and delivered to the work site. I sent my carpenter over to finish the project. No delivery had taken place. The wrong material was still on site. A few days later, the CBS brokers assured me this time, for sure, there had been a delivery of the correct material. Again, I sent my carpenter to the work site. No material. My carpenter charged me for two days work, and I asked the president of CBS to reimburse me for the $500 I had to pay the carpenter. I did not quibble about the $265 freight charge, which I had paid in advance. To date, after several emails and last week a letter to the president of the company, I have heard nothing. I sent the president of the company a copy (twice) of the carpenter's invoice and photos of the completed outdoor shower. Thus this review. Happy with the product. Very unhappy with the delivery.
- Lynne S.

We decided to go ahead and have install the door, which costs $139. We probably could find someone to do it cheaper, but the convenience of having do it won out.
So we had to pay about $40 to have the installer (a sub-contractor) come out to confirm measurements. We were told ...More this fee would be refunded when we purchased the door and install. They did subtract this amount at the time of purchase, but the paperwork does not clearly show this deduction.
The reason for the poor grade on price is because the sub-contractor is charging $33 because the door is upstairs (one flight). I tried to have allow me to carry the door upstairs, but they were unwilling to negotiate. I know $33 does not seem like a lot, but it just bothers me when charges like this are added on. And I don't feel that carrying an interior door up a flight of stairs is really $33 worth of labor. I came very close to cancelling the install, but just didn't have the time to go and find another installer. Plus, I would the approx $40 I had to pay for the contractor to confirm my measurements (which were correct, of course). I just felt like I was trapped into accepting an unreasonable charge. I expect more from a company like . They should exert more control over their sub-contractors.
The install has not taken place yet, but I doubt we'll ever use the install service again, even if everything goes well from here on out.
- Emily T.

They're very knowledgeable. They love dogs! Very nice and helpful. Personalized customer service. They you kindly and are great to deal with.

It went as best as could be expected. I would even say they exceeded my expectations. Here is how it unfolded:
(1) On September 30, 2015 I went to Lowes and bought the Washer Dryer set. I did price shopping comparisons to ensure I was offered a competitive (best) price.
(2) I was asked at check out what day and time I would like the ...More items delivered. I chose October 2, 2015 (a Friday) between 12 PM and 2 PM. I needed to come home from work - so I was concerned that if they were a no show I would loose 2 hours at work.
(3) I showed up at 12 PM and the Lowes delivery truck arrived 10 minutes later. Maybe this was luck - I don't know, But, I was thrilled that the timing worked out so well.
(4) The Lowes Truck backed up into our driveway. The 2 guys disconnected the old washer and dryer, cleaned out the area behind the machines, and then moved in the new Washer Dryer combination. I regretted not buying the pedestals - as the washer/dryer sat lower than in the store. (My fault!)
(5) By 12:30 PM the units were installed and working just fine. My wife was thrilled. When I came home that night I had clean, warm clothes folded away in my dresser.
- Lila J.

the installer was excellent. We were in a flood and needed the floors stripped, cleaned, and prepped. He did an excellent job and didn't cut corners. He was also very helpful with advice on sub flooring. Always cleaned up after himself and never left a mess. That was very appreciated since our house was already torn to pieces ...More from the disaster and we were trying to live in it. He was here for a total of 8 days, with the project being broken into two parts.
The organization within the flooring section of the store was a joke. Two ladies ran the department and neither one knew what the other was doing. It was impossible to relay information to one for the other and very hard to catch the one you needed. You definitely got the feeling they weren't interested in that small of a job. Well, it was a huge, very important job for us. Even the installer would have to be told what he was supposed to do when he got here because nobody else seemed to know.
My other complaint is that we have an extra room's amount of vinyl flooring leftover. Large pieces. The person that originally measured the house did a poor job to have that much leftover. We paid over $16.00 for the vinyl.
I would be hesitant to have them install flooring for me again. I have no confidence in them. However, the availability and quality of the materials they offer is very good. The other personnel in the store itself are very nice, friendly, and helpful.
- Brenda L.

I had trouble finding it, but helped me, and then also helped me find doors. The price wound up being a lot less than I expected! I like that they sometimes carry hard-to-find products that other hardware stores typically do not.
- Sean H.

Overall, it went well, but the staff wasn’t as knowledgeable which meant that we had to make subsequent visits. Ultimately, is better for smaller projects.
- Arthur S.

Hardware Stores in Finksburg, MD

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


Bel Air

A Touch of Brass

9052 Chevrolet Dr
Ellicott City

A&J Home Improvement

564 Jumpers Hole Rd
Severna Park

All Trades Building and Construction LLC

PO Box 765 Fort Meade


401 Mary Ave
Linthicum Heights

At Your Door Floor Store

17617 Redland Rd



AU Granite and Marble, LLC

110 Defense Hwy


2920 Dede Rd

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

Bristol Construction LLC

3805 Norrisville Rd

C & K Home Improvement

52 Ridge Ave.

Cabinet Discounters Inc

9500 Berger Rd

CONNOR Institute

1421 Clarkview Road Suite 100

Couser Supply Inc

PO Box 47153
Windsor Mill

Eye See Improvement

4605 Old Court Rd



Fence & Deck Direct

1901 Halethorpe Avenue

Fireside Stone & Patio

76 Frederick Rd
Ellicott City

Granite Marble Buy Direct and Save

27391 P.O. Box

Hang Time Tools

On line store


9515 Deereco Road

HBKK Construction

4157 Mountain Road

Hodges Window & Glass

850 Middle River Rd
Middle River

Home Air Services Inc.

12288 Wilkins Ave

Hunny Do LLC

5520 Groveland Ave

J & L Home Repair LLC

341 Brock Bridge Rd

Jarvis Steel & Lumber

1030 E. Potapsco

JP General Contractor

1604 Indiana Ave



Lowe's Of Towson MD

1400 Taylor Ave

Manns Unique Design Inc

7509 Brightwater Beach Rd
Glen Burnie

Mercer Carpet One Floor & Home

26 W Main St

Mercer Carpet One Floor & Home

10155 Baltimore National Pike
Ellicott City

Metal Supermarkets

7120 Golden Ring Road

Mid-Atlantic Deck & Fence Co

800 State Rte 3 S

Panda Kitchen & Bath

9425 Washington Blvd

Pinnacle improvements

8072 Woodholme Cir


19200 Chennault Way

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

RGH Associates, Co.

P.O .Box 682



Shenandoah Shutters

2800 Cofer Rd

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stivers Contracting

7316 Waldman Ave.
Sparrows Point


6295 Edsall Rd Ste 20

Tension Seal Products Co Inc

3570 St Johns Ln.
Ellicott City



Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

WPS Paint & Decorating Center

2906 Emmorton Rd.

X-press Contracting.com LLC

PO Box 9044

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