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"We were very impressed with
. They were both very knowledgeable and pleasant. They were able to finish the" job within two hours. The work area was left clean. We have already recommend then to our friends. We are so happy with the work that they did. Thank you!

-Norma J.

"Showed on time ,great communication prior to appointment. Accurately diagnosed multiple issues which I then asked them to go ahead and fix. There was enough time" before his next appointment that they were able to do the repairs the same day. I would definitely use them again without hesitation.

-Rich G.

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Local Articles in Opelousas

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Opelousas


Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
was great!! Not only was he prompt, he stayed all day to complete the job in our house that does not have central air on a very hot day! He pointed out things of note and kept me in the loop all during the time he was here. Personable, on time, and he left everything cleaner than when he arrived. If you have the need for an experienced electrician and you have an old house, I highly recommend him and
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked

- Kathryn T.

Provided excellent service. Very efficient, professional, very reasonable. Removed all debris. Highly recommend!
- Sharon C.

Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very responsive from our initial contact; quoted a fair price; and showed up as scheduled. He called ahead of time to confirm we were at our house for the appointment. He completed the work in a reasonable amount of time and we are quite pleased with his work. We're planning to hire
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
to do some additional electrical work this fall.
- William R.

The technician, Mr.
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
, was well prepared, having brought more than one new fan to make sure he had the right size. The work was done within 2 hr, all debris was removed, I was shown both the elements of the installation when finished, and how to adjust the thermostat if needed. The price was as promoted, no add-ons, representing a nice discount compared to other services I searched. Mr.
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional and focused on completing the work.
- Rick T.

Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
did the work promptly and cleanly. His estimate was $200 less than others, and on top of that he gave us an Angie's list discount. We're happy.

On a hot Monday in
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
I contacted
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
at 4:30 after having irregular power outages. With the refrigerator & AC not operable & Ameren finding no issue on their end I decided it was indeed time to call an electrician
Though the end of the business day was approaching Bill personally took my call & made the trip to our home.
After inspecting the breaker box & assessing the issue Bill was able to remedy the problem in short order. He also took the time to look over other & advice on additional areas of potential electrical concern.
Excellent service & professionalism in addition to being very personable.
Thanks Bill.

I purchased an Angies List Deal for 8 man-hours of electrician work at a discount. I made a list of six tasks that included long, medium and short jobs, and I understood they could not all be done in 8 hours. The jobs ranged from running a new circuit to the kitchen to stopping two different ceiling lights from flickering. I figured we'd get done one longer job and fit in as many of the shorter/medium ones as time allowed. I planned to hire this electrician at his full rate to do the remaining jobs, if the work done for the Angies List Deal went well. It did not.
How it went turned out to be a mixed bag, mostly because I didn't really get 8 hours of electrician work from the two people who came to work for four elapsed hours. One was the owner,
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
Butler. He was knowledgeable. The other was an apprentice who seemed unable to do anything without
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
stopping what he was doing to teach the apprentice by
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
doing it himself while the apprentice stood and watched. For example, one of the flickering lights got fixed simply by
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
slightly bending a contact inside the bulb socket. (I know this because I listened to
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
tell the apprentice, who stood idly by watching.) The apprentice had first tried to fix it himself. When he could not, he told me to throw out my light fixture and buy a new one--which turned out to be totally unnecessary. So, instead of two people working to actually get things done over four elapsed hours, I got 1 person stopping what he was working on to instead do an uncomplicated thing while the second person produced nothing. The apprentice was only able to screw things
on -- and when
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
told him to.
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
seemed intent on spending time I paid for to do things that were not on my list, which I had shown him and discussed when he arrived. For example, we started with the job of installing the new outlet in the basement utility room. While standing at the spot where my new outlet would go, as we talked about placing the outlet and where to link into a power source, he suddenly started cutting ties around some of my overhead burglar alarm wires that the ADT burglar alarm installer had used to bundle those wires.
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
said he wanted to enclose them in some new conduit. This was not on my list, as those wires had been there with no problem for many years. A while later, I spotted the second man--the apprentice--standing for quite a time at my electric panel and fiddling with it. When I asked
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
what the apprentice was doing, he said he was checking to see that I had power at my electric panel. This was totally unnecessary, since I told him when he first arrived that I had spent many hours getting ready for his visit by identifying exactly what lights, appliances and outlets were on each and every circuit on the electric panel. That was only possible because every single circuit had power and worked fine. So, the apprentice may have learned something at my expense, but he produced no work that I needed. Again, this was not on my list.
I also found
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
to be not thorough and not thinking about saving me unnecessary expense. For example, he was about to throw out two expensive outdoor flood lights that were in the outside security light being replaced. I knew they were good bulbs because I had used them to test if the device worked before deciding to replace it. When I raised a question about throwing them out,
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
said he could quickly test them, which he did with a gadget he had in about three seconds. Both bulbs worked fine, as I had thought. I would have preferred that
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
test them himself, without my having to question what he was doing.
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
also demonstrated a lack of thoroughness when he said he was unfamiliar with the terms of his own Angies List Deal. I had to show him the printout to read because he wanted to leave about three hours before the specified time elapsed. He also said he didn't take a credit card (for the materials), even though his listing on Angies List states he does.
On the positive side, I do think that
Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
knows his trade. He made some suggestions for how to do one of the long jobs we didn't have time for, and also told me where I could go to get a lamp repaired.
In summary, I didn't get the 8 man hours of electrical work I paid for. Instead, I got an electrician with a primary focus on training a person who seemed almost completely inexperienced, even when the training included doing tasks I didn't need or want done.

- Holly G.

Opelousas Electricians Provider Name Locked
called to confirm our appointment prior to coming and was prompt. He was knowledgeable, friendly, and worked hard. We had only scheduled him for one job, but he was willing to do the other projects I asked about while he was there. It was clear that he cared about doing a good job and doing things right. He cleaned everything up after he was finished. We will be calling him for future projects and will recommend him to friends.
- Lisa M.

Electricians in Opelousas, LA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


Breaux Bridge





Affordable Services LLC

PO Box 12737
New Iberia

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE



ATR Electric LLC

104 Ida Broussard Rd.

Automotive Specialists of Lafayette

216 Carmel Dr.



Blouin Electric

3351 Lydia St
Port Allen

Builders & Painters Associates

359 Market St





DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Ed Chachere Construction Inc

PO Box 245
Saint Martinville

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

GHR Maintenance

31201 Old Baton Rouge Hwy

Hayes Handyman Service

1714 jake dr

Heberts Home Repairs

195 Antigua Dr



Keep it Simple Services

307 Rubria Street

Keepitsimple Service LLC

307 Rubria

King Electrical & Controls, LLC

6107 N. University Ave.

Kole Air Conditioning & Electric

6795 Steamboat Ln

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

M&R Distributors

2908 Belvedere Ave
New Iberia

Mr Electric

PO Box 658






1078 HIGHWAY 743


P. O. Box 938

SJC Construction

1085 Girl Scout Rd
Breaux Bridge


P.O. BOX 610



Tommy R Thibodeaux Ii

2041 Bearcat Rd


PO BOX 4365

Waltswhatever, LLC

8701 Ruth Drive


12637 S 265 W Suite 100




PO Box 70866

Wilds Restoration Services

5858 Thunderbird Road

William Johnson Electric

107 Sylvia Loop

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

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