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A
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and
were friendly and professional, they worked and completed the job in a timely manner. I will definitely call them in the future.

-Demetra L.

A
"They came and what my problem was I had 2 oil type radiators in a greenhouse and my face plates on the room in the house closest to the greenhouse and they said" they were drawing to many amps causing the extension cord which was a heavy duty cord and my plugs were just getting to hot. So they suggested I get a heater with a blower on it and one that would draw less amps. Well I went out and bought a new heater with a fan and the plug in my bathroom was hot again. Well, I looked at the box and saw it was drawing the same amps and what
had before 1500 amps. So I took that heater back and it's very hard to find a heater with a fan that draws less than 1500. Anyhow, my next door neighbor said he had a couple of heaters and brought one over and we hung it up and set the temp on low and it had two settings for amps one at 1300 and the other for 1500. So we set it at 1300 and so far no problem. It wasn't their fault because I had gotten a deal on another site with this deal for $118.00 amount of work instead of the regular price of $150.00 . But what I paid for what they did was =very high but like I say they it wasn't really their faule although they knew I was using the coupon and I thought that maybe they might have given me a refund on part of it since they were only here for about 15 minutes.

-Thomas M.

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Local Articles in Anacoco

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)
Electrical

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Anacoco

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Rating
Absolutely fabulous from the moment of contact until Trip left. A great experience. I called mid-morning to ask for service since we had lost all of the lights in part of our house. The
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
was going to schedule us for tomorrow and when I asked if there was any
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
for today, she said "let me make a call and I'll get right back to you". She did indeed. Probably in less than 3 minutes she called me back and got us scheduled for today. I received three calls from the Electricians asking for advance information so that they came prepared. The first Electrician was held up at another job so right away another one called me and said he was on his way. He showed up about 30 minutes later which is exactly what he said he would do.
He worked very hard unplugging everything (and that was alot) to finally determine that we had a lamp that had a short in it. Trip was fantastic and he was good to our dog too. Very personable man, showed how much he cared about delivering great service and did a wonderful job. Any other electrical work that we need done I would call
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
immediately. I'm so sorry that the person that posted before me had a bad experience because this is a great company judging from my experience. And the price was unbelievable. I didn't prepurchase any of their "deals" because I wasn't sure what I needed. So they honored the one hour for $69 which was very gracious of them. Saved me a bit of money and gave me an overall A++ experience.
don't hesitate to call them if you need electrical work done.


- Kay S.
A

Rating
The appointment was scheduled for 9:00am 1/28. I received a phone call at 8:30 saying they would be here at 9:00. Promptly at 9:00am my doorbell rang. The introduced themselves, both men were very polite and you certainly felt like you could trust them. I showed them the two small bathrooms that the tile would be going in and that was it. They went to work right away and it seemed like they did not pick their heads up till lunch. I was impressed with the speed and professional responsibility they took with this job. I will certainly be using them again when it comes time for crown moulding to be installed.
- Travis A.
A

Rating
Prompt response to my email. Tech arrived on time and completed work well.
- Roseann W.
A

Rating
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very nice, professional, cleaned up everything and completed the work on time. His prices were fair and he was very good at explaining what needed to be done.
- Inesa V.
A

Rating
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
is very professional. When I called to get an estimate I reached his voicemail and he called me back within a few hours. His prices were by far the best estimates that I received (I called 4 other electricians). We were able to schedule a time that was convenient for me. He called shortly before he arrived to our house and he was on-time. After he provided this service we asked him to provide rough estimates for other projects that we intend to complete in the near future. We will be hiring him again soon.
- Catherine M.
A

Rating
Owner was here within a half hour from time I called him. Professional. Thorough. Reasonably priced. Will be hiring him again for future work.
- Danielle G.
A

Rating
Absolutely excellent!
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very responsive working with me to schedule the appt through Angies List, and arrived within the time frame designated. Performed all repairs exactly as promised and configured a work-around with the garage outlet that will truly help me. I truly received great value for my money and I now have an electrician I will be able to call on for any electrical work that I may need! don't hesitate to call him!!
- DOUGLAS & GINA B.
A

Rating
This was a pretty
Anacoco Electricians Provider Name Locked
project but I was still really pleased. He was on time, worked quickly, and the light fixtures look great. I'd definitely hire them again.
- Shawn M.

All Electricians in Anacoco, LA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A1Roofman

PO Box 66

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

AMERICAN ACE HARDWARE

4323 MONROE HWY
Ball

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Bayou Rapides Corporation

P O Box 222
Alexandria

BLG Solar Solutions LLC

111 Venture Blvd
Houma

Boswell's Air Conditioning and Heating

709 Hickory Street
New Llano

BRIAN ELECTRIC LLC

1104 LAKESHORE DR
Pineville

Darren David Electric LLC

3913 Jande St
Lake Charles

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dream Renovations

6046 Twin Bridges Rd
Alexandria

DWL Electric

305 N 5th St
Leesville

E-Mel Electrical Services,llc

23564 Tarpon Springs Dr
Abita Springs

EMERSON'S AMERICAN AIR

1217 HERRINGTON RD
Leesville

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

GHR Maintenance

31201 Old Baton Rouge Hwy
Hammond

Gunn Solar Energy Systems

2201 Shreveport Hwy
Pineville

Hawk's Remodeling & Construction

453 Patrick Rd
Natchitoches

Igloo Air & Electric

1301 Melrose St
Pineville

JOHN PORCHE ELECTRICAL CONTRS

411 RYAN STREET
Lake Charles

Logan's Electric, LLC

103 Holiday Blvd
Pineville

MMR Electric Inc

127 Hudson St
Pineville

PowerUp Power Systems LLC

3080 Knolin Drive
Bossier City

Reworks Reconstruction

47042 North Cherry Street
Hammond

Scallion Heating A/C & Electric

877 Fish Hatchery Rd
Natchitoches

TANGI ELECTRIC & MAINTENANCE

109 TOWER DR
Hammond

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Williams Electric Service, LLC

412 A Clausen Rd
Simpson

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