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"When I had first spoke with the Provider they were friendly and going to help with my needs. Told me they would respond back to me within 2 days. I didn't hear" anything for 2 weeks and I made repeated phone calls that were not answered. When I finally got a hold of him, he said my insurance won't pay for it and said that he had called me several times when I said he had not, he hung. I believe he was mad because he wasn't get a huge insurance check. Overall, he ended up being rude and abrasive when he was so nice at first. He hurt me emotionally.

-Marcia F.

and his colleague were both very polite, professional and showed a sense of urgency. I contacted
on Saturday after" discovering an area where I suspected mold.
said he would be there the next day (Sunday morning of holiday weekend) after I explained that my wife was pregnant and we also had a small dog. He was punctual and very accommodating. He completed that inspection and remediation all in the same day. He worked quickly and completed the job within a few hours. He answered all my questions as well. I highly recommend this company. In comparison, I contacted another company prior to
who advertised 24 hour service, and they called back and offered me an appointment four days later!

-Robert C.

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Local Articles in Overland Park


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Overland Park


He was super patient and very kind plus informative. I much appreciate his time even though he made nothing from it. IF I ever have an issue in future, he will be my first call. I would recommend anyone to call him.
- Wendy Y.

I had a surprise waiting for me in my basement –mold on ceiling, pipes, etc. this is a cinder block half way up/dirt/ concrete slab type of basement so not a “real” basement 65 year old wood beams etc…all covered. I
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
’t normally go down there but went down to check on sump pump. So I got on Angie’s list right away and saw all the good reviews for
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and bought
the coupon.. This was on a Sunday and I heard from
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
the very next day, and found he had time to come out that
afternoon to see the mold. He inspected everything, explained everything in detail, and worked up a quote for me, I
signed the same day. They came out Thursday and by Thursday evening it was done, and mold GONE – and it smelled
great! Fresh and clean.
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
, etc. were a great crew and did an excellent job! I would highly recommend
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and his team to
help you with any mold issue. He was extremely patient with my questions and very pleasant..He gave me advice to
keep the mold away….which I am in the process of working on. Definitely would use again
- Eva M.

I asked the provider specifically to not mention any mold presence or issues to my tenants and to tell me directly. He ended up telling my tenants that there was mold, which completely freaked them out and caused a lot of issues for me. I asked him not to let them know and that I would get it all removed without them knowing to not cause them to stress. I am very unhappy with the fact that he could not follow instructions. I would like my money back.
- Jacob T.

Provider (
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
) did not locate the source of water. The provider made a lot of sweeping statements about how the water could have come from multiple areas in my home and then SHARED all of this information, despite my wishes for confidentiality, with my hostile neighbors. This created a huge liability mess!

When I asked him about this, he said it was "hearsay" and I was "wasting his time" and even accused me of tampering with my a/c that he was sure was the problem!! After it was checked out! Had he just looked into the attic, the problem was obvious. It took the HVAC guy 20 mins to see - instead of all the drama he started with the neighbors, which is his own fault. He wasted OUR time. Not to mention I was totally ripped off. He quoted $300 to open my wall and repair it, but he just opened the wall and then said drywall repair was not included. GET HIS SERVICES IN ERITING BEFORE YOU AUTHORIZE ANY WORK!!
- krystin B.

I purchased an Angie's list deal for mold tests and inspection. They had also done work for me to fix a wall and ceiling in my family that had a lot of water damage. They were very clean and thorough for both the mold testing and the wall
and ceiling repair. Communication was very consistent and prompt, as
well as courteous. I think they did a great job on making our family
room look perfect after it had a lot of damage. I would highly recommend
this company to others for mold testing, remediation, and general
restoration work.
- Malay V.

Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
team did a very nice job of containing the moldy area and removing the problem. Within 24 hours of discovery, they had it completely remediated. A finishing contractor came about a week later to finish the drywall at the end where more attention to detail was needed. Excellent service, professionalism and response time.
- Rebecca V.

Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and his crew are the nicest - polite - calmest people! They took care of EVERYTHING in such a professional way. They made me feel so comfortable and relaxed (even though I was extremely stressed bc the basement was destroyed). On Thursday when
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came out, he diagnosed the situation, called his crew. 3 guys came over and tore out the carpet & padding, took it all away in their truck. They set up humidifiers that night! ON Friday his crew came out at 1 pm and finished up the job till 1130pm at night!
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
I have to say is the nicest hard working guy I have met.
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's whole CREW is AWESOME! Because the water was sitting for a week or two, they had to remove all the base boards, and 2 ft of drywall from the base of the walls throughout the basement... Once all that construction was completed, they sanitized the whole basement and then set up blowers for 3 days making a cyclone affect with dehumidifiers in the basement.
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
works HARD, SMART, and are CLEAN as can be. They are professional, courteous, and polite. I would highly recommend them to anyone that has had a basement flood!
- Michael B.

The inspection and evaluation process was complete and very informative. A very complete discussion of the causes and probable remedies was offered. The
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
work required was much more than originally projected. As they proceeded I was very involved in the ongoing evaluation and the discussion of how much added work was needed. The workers were very clear in their explanation of what we saw and what needed to be done. During the initial work the workers spent a little too much time chit - chatting with me before getting down to the work. As it turned out there was much more work required than originally projected, so the chat time became an issue.My fault, as well as theirs. The second day of work was much more focused
I am satisfied with the overall results and quality of work. The work they did was clearly explained and my next steps for reconstruction were clearly explained. They gave me sound advice on what materials I could safely re-use. I am very confident in the advice I got from these folks and satisfied with the quality of work done. The cost was satisfactory.I would recommend these folks for mold
Overland Park Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
work to others.
- William M.

Mold Removal Experts in Overland Park, KS

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$49 handyman

3411 W 77 Ter
Prairie Village

180 Restore

3309 E 107th Terr

AAA General Contractors

5304 Harry S. Truman Drive

Absolute Home Renovation

8825 Bond Street
Overland Park

Complete Home Inspection

10415 W 53RD ST

Dan's Home Improvement

4236 N Spruce Ave

Dog Gone Mold

6347 Stevenson St

Evans & Company Construction LLC

10332 W 79th St
Overland Park

Every Square Inch Property Inspection

3416 West 92 Terrace

Fine Homebuilders, llc

6410 Vista Dr


5312 REEDS

Help You Dry, Inc

10308 Metcalf Ave #107
Overland Park


P.O. BOX 1101

Jameson Remodeling & Home Repair

PO Box 8662
Prairie Village

Johnson County Home Service Plumbing

4011 Bonner Industrial Drive
Shawnee Mission

Kingston Environmental Companies

10100 W 87th St Ste 350
Overland Park

Kip's Carpet Cleaning, Inc

1425 S Main St

Kramer Restoration

4701 College Blvd. Suite 103

Lester Inspection Services, Inc.

8243 SW 53rd St

Mayfair Cleaners

1306 Platte Falls Rd

Metro Property Inspection

8809 Long St

Midwest Environmental Pros LLC

7275 W. 162nd Street
Overland Park

Moldman- Kansas City

8513 Ward Pkway
Kansas City

Moodys Improvements

18510 south cherry court

Neighborhood Painting, Inc.

7618 Forest Park Dr

One Stop Handyman Shop

13901 S Harris Rd

Service Technologies, LLC

6800 W. 64th St.
Overland Park

Stokes Public Adjusters

16470 S. Laurelwood Street

Stucco Inspection & repair Inc.

11793 S. Clare Rd.

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace

That K C Painter Guy

12109 Brickyard Rd P O Box 11901


8425 MAIN ST

The Green Collar Institute EETCKC

2402 South 34th Street
Kansas City

TNG Field Services

PO Box 410352

TRI Construction

2004 E Cherokee Ln

USA Hazmat

6300 Stadium Drive

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Whole Home Cleaners

814 E Main St

William McKeone Construction

244 NE Dreamweaver Ave.

Wiseguys Fire & Water Restoration

14759 S. Alden St.

Zipco Cleaning & Restoration

4110 N. Corrington Ave

Shop Local Mold Removal Services in Overland Park, KS

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