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A
"Ed came and spent a significant amount of time with me. He was able to give me some helpful hints to see where my drainage issue was. He recommended I spend $150" on some temporary piping to identify the where my issues were coming from. After doing this, I avoided a significant amount of unneeded work and money that was recommended by another provided. Due to his suggestions, I was able to go back to some landscapers that did some unrelated work for me years ago that resulted in drainage issues. They were able to fix the problem, so I didn't need Ed's services, but I would have used him if they didn't fix the problem.

-James S.

C
" I planned to use their service during late spring as roots have sometimes encroached upon sewer lines in our house as well as several neighbors. I was going" to use their services as a preventative measure as we had had no serious problems in years. Unfortunately that was the year that our boiler started leaking and had to be replaced distracting us from going forward with our project. that summer we lost our central air conditioning and had to use window and room units to get through the remainder of the summer. We did replace our central system in the fall, and that winter finally started to return to our sewer cleaning project.. We left a message with the receptionist at
and several days later were called by a manager who stated they would not honor the" big deal" but would be glad to do the job at their new regular price of several hundred dollars. At this point I think I would just like my money refunded since they did no work or even gave no personal assessment at my residence. This is not to cast aspersion on the work
does, it is just a business dispute caused in part by my unforeseen circumstances preventing me from taking advantage of the "big deal" in a timely manner. This was a very good price for the service proposed, and I can understand them not wanting to honor an old prepaid price, but again since they did no work I would like to have the money refunded.

-RICHARD M.

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Angie's Answers

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?
The simple answer is ,"No!" The only way to effectively clean grease and scum from a drain line (or a neighborhood, jk) is with high pressured water. The machine they use is called a Jetter, many drain cleaning companies have them.

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Overland Park

A

Rating
Originally came to our house to repair and inspect our two pumps when we moved in, came back on a rainy Saturday to do emergency work two years later when drain pipe was plugged up, replaced one pump. Came back recently to run a second pipe to prevent future problems. Our go to team for all sump pump work.
- Edith S.
A

Rating
Just like last year,
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
was very punctual and professional. He came in with his big air compressor and connected it to
my sprinkler system to push out all the remaining water in the underground pipes. He did that zone by zone for all our six zones. He also replaced one of the older sprinklers which was damaged with a new one which works well now and he adjusted another sprinkler to better cover the lawn up front. As usual he gave me a lot of useful tips. I was very happy with his level of professionalism, punctuality and quality of service.
- Wojciech G.
B

Rating
The service went okay. I have not followed through with the project just yet. They were quick to respond and easy to schedule with. I was looking for some drainage changes and they gave some good ideas. They were very informative.
- JAMES I.
A

Rating
Excellent experience throughout the process.
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
spent a lot of personal time with us and he lead meetings with any specialty contractors. The work was all well performed, on time and within budget. He had numerous good ideas to improve on our initial wish list so that we did not leave things undone or any residual problems. We would award
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
and his team an A+. When we have more work to do we will work only trhough him and we recommend him to all of our friends and neighbors.
- Barry R.
A

Rating
very prompt returning calls & arriving for appointment, very helpful in solving problem long-term,
- Rebecca R.
A

Rating
Apparently sometime during January of 2015, while my husband and I were wintering in Florida, something stopped working in the hot water heating system. We had asked some family members to look into the house periodically, but with all the deep snows and the many storms, no one apparently was able to do that. According to the extent of the damages, the house must have been frozen a long time for all of the heat radiators to freeze, swell and burst. When the weather warmed a little the burst pipes started spreading water over the hardwood floors. We were notified that a water sensor in the basement had sent out an alarm to our home security agency. By the time
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
got into the house it was raining in the basement with an inch of water on the floor. In addition to stopping the continuing water flow and finding and fixing leaks, they brought in heaters to keep our utility room (full of gages, valves, pipes water tanks and the boiler) from freezing. They found the source of the heat failure in the boiler, ordered and replaced those parts as well as several other heat related parts. Mr Carafotes also volunteered to walk the home insurance adjustor through all the repairs, although on the day arranged for the adjustor to be at the house Mr. Carafotes was called out to another heating emergency. I feel that I can say without doubt that
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
earned their payment.
- Kathi M.
A

Rating
They contacted me promptly and showed up in a profession manner. The fixes were done quickly and they had to go out and purchase a fixture which they did and returned quickly. Very polite service, professional and well done. Would definitely use again!
- Leslie P.
A

Rating
Within 2 days of moving into our house we had a sewage backup into our basement! I called a few plumbers but no one was able to get out to my house for several days.
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
, however, was able to come out the same day and gave us an estimate. He started work the next day and had the job done by the afternoon! He was professional, helpful, and nice to our dogs :-) Also, the total cost of the work he completed was much less expensive than what we were quoted by another plumber!
Work completed included:
-Snaking pipe to look for clogs (there turned out to be a root ball from a nearby tree and a trap in the drain that had filled with sediment and hardened from the water not being used for several months prior to purchasing the home).
-Removing and replacing a portion of the foundation to access the sewer pipe
-
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
the ground outside the house to remove the old sewer pipe and filling back in with dirt when job completed
-Replacing old sewer pipe with new pipe (old pipe had rusted through on the portion inside the basement, allowing sewage to leak into basement)
-Ensuring water was flowing into septic tank and remaining at proper level
-Replaced a few other older pipes that connected to main sewer pipe
-Explained everything that needed done and answered all my questions along the way!
We were so impressed with
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
and his son's work that we hired him to come back out to the house to remove our barely functioning old sump pump. He bought a new (energy saving!) sump pump, installed new pipes (the old ones were duct taped together) and verified it was working. This work cost about $400 ($200 for the pump, $200 for labor because it took some time to verify that the sump pump was draining to where it should).
Hopefully we're done fixing plumbing issues for a while but if we need further work we will be calling
Overland Park Drain Pipe Installers Provider Name Locked
!
- Kelly T.

All Drain Pipe Installers in Overland Park, KS

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$49 Handyman

3411 W 77th Terrace
Prairie Village

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr

A-1 Construction

2435 N 68th Place
Kansas City

A-1 Sewer & Septic Service Inc

6370 Carter St
Merriam

A2D Landscape & Design

21316 E 51st St S

Above and Beyond Tree Care LLC

1111 West 41st Street

Advocate Master Plumbing

707 Northwest 16th Street

AE Landscape Solutions

5343 Millbrook St
Shawnee

Affordable Plumbing & Sewer

2109 W 120th Ter
Leawood

All Concrete Inc

16909 S Graham

All Pro Plumbing

1213 N. Old Mill Rd.

All Season Renovations

3108 NE Russell Rd

B & M Remodeling

2300 NW Acorn Drive

Bailey Backhoe Service

21401 S Cleveland Ave

Barlow Interiors, LLC

1233 E. Westerfield PL
Olathe

Barnds Companies

10000 W. 135th Street
Overland Park

Beemer Plumbing

23270 S Waverly Rd
Spring Hill

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

5200 Mitchelldale Dr.

Big Country Lawn & Landscape

6336 Lind Rd.
Shawnee

Bob Hamilton Plumbing Heating & AC

7899 Frontage Rd
Overland Park

Breckenridge Builders Inc.

2315 W 104th Terrace
Leawood

Burkin Plumbing

50 North 74th St.
Kansas City

Cabin Works Corp

625 E Agate Ave

Cady Companies Inc

14795 S ALDEN ST
Olathe

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Chilsons Lawn & Landscape

7458 NW Rhode Ave

Clog Gone It

PO Box 47065

Collins Plumbing LLC

9203 Noland Rd

Commercial Piering Systems LLC

9928 Taylor Dr
Overland Park

Connelly Plumbing Solutions

1046 N Lincoln St
Olathe

Creek Tree Service Inc

606 S Grant Street
Olathe

Crosby Plumbing

16040 Linwood Rd
Bonner Springs

Crystal Trenching Co Inc.

4622 Merriam Dr
Overland Park

Curby's Lawn & Garden

14835 S Gardener Rd
Gardner

Custom Lawn & Landscape, Inc.

15204 S Keeler St
Olathe

DECK WORKS

22607 W 59th St
Shawnee

Fine Homebuilders, llc

6410 Vista Dr
Shawnee

Foundation 1

5616 Raytown Rd

Foundation Guy Inc

1712 SW New Orleans Avenue

Full Nelson Plumbing

8109 1/2 N Oak Trafficway

GRT PLUMBING

19058 W 319TH ST
Paola

Hammer Down

33700 E. Oak Hill School Rd.

Handyman Connection - Kansas City

10000 W 75th St
Overland Park

HARDING LAWN & LANDSCAPE

7310 AMINDA
Lenexa

HASKETT'S LANDSCAPING

13812 BRADSHAW ST
Overland Park

Hayden & Sons Plumbing

705 Lakedale Rd

Henry Contracting LLC

General Delivery
Leavenworth

Hochanadel Handy Service

9225 Farley St.
Overland Park

HOMEWORK

11415 Strang Line Rd
Lenexa

Horizontal Earthworks LLC

218 NW Shamrock Ave

Hudson Plumbing

23208 E Us Hwy 24

Hydrowerx Inc

1025 West 71st Ter

Icscom LLC

8808 w 119th st

J.J's Contracting

19400 E. 37th Terr. Ct. S #106

Johnson County Home Service Plumbing

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr
Shawnee

K C Lawn & Landscaping Inc

4124 NW Riverside St

Kansas Asphalt Inc

7000 W 206th St
Bucyrus

KC RAINMAKER LAWN SERVICE INC

PO BOX 26271
Overland Park

KCERW LLC

2809 N. Twyman Rd.

KELLER'S LANDSCAPING

15640 E US HIGHWAY 40

Land Escapes LLC

8357 Monticello Rd Ste 300
Lenexa

Landesign Landscape Inc

9575 Evening Star Rd
Eudora

Lawn & Landscape Solutions

15680 S. Keeler Terr.
Olathe

LawnBoys Mowing LLC

9810 Kessler St
Overland Park

Lutz Plumbing Inc

PO BOX 860483
Shawnee

Malin’s Electric & Plumbing Llc

7318 Earnshaw St
Shawnee

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns
Shawnee

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns
Shawnee

Mary's Landscaping Co

8105 Craig
Overland Park

MESSENGERS LAWN & LANDSCAPE

19160 Metcalf Ave
Stilwell

Midwest Plumbing LLC

14500 Parallel
Basehor

Mr. Rooter Plumbing Of Lawrence

807 N 7th St
Lawrence

NEVERFAIL CONSTRUCTION SERVICE CO

2115 SOMERSET DR
Leawood

Neville Haynes Masonry

1933 N 73rd Terrace
Kansas City

Nick Triano Plumbing

1650 Madison Ave

Olshan Foundation Repair

6003 Arlington Ave

PARAMOUNT LANDSCAPE INC

7756 HOLLIDAY DR
Kansas City

Phillips Services

3208 S Monroe

Pipeline sprinkler systems

PO Box 7752
Overland Park

Platinum Outdoor Concepts

PO Box 15692, Lenexa KS, 66285
Lenexa

POOR JOHN'S PLUMBING

Kansas City, MO

Prairiescapes Landscape Creations Inc

9102 W 93rd St
Overland Park

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley

Pryor Mechanical

221 NW 180th Street

PW Waterworks Inc

22014 W 223rd St
Spring Hill

QUALITY PLUMBING INC

1731 HOWELL ST.

R & S Lawn

106 James St

Red Oak Landscaping LLC

20978 Floyd St
Bucyrus

Reddi Services Inc

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr
Shawnee

Reliable Remodelers

1517 N 25th St
Kansas City

ReTouch Design-Build-Renovate

6025 Metcalf Lane, Suite 310
Overland Park

Roger the Plumber

7723 W 81st St
Overland Park

RoofMasters

5215 S 91st St

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

8600 W 95th St
Overland Park

Russ Boyce Repair, Construction & Excavation

* Where Precision is Key *
Lenexa

RW Lawnworks

PO Box 344
Bonner Springs

S&S Mechanical Contractors LLC

Po Box 4155
Overland Park

SAMSON IRRIGATION

907 Swift St.

SCOTT BLY & CO

2940 S 46TH ST
Kansas City

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.

Select Grounds Services Inc

PO Box 244, 30001 E 58 Hwy

Snake 'N' Rooter

3370 NE Powell Rd

Sonrise Lawn Care

10718 E 71st Ter

Spartan Foundation Repair

9010 Rosehill Rd
Lenexa

STEWART BUNN

8101 HADLEY
Overland Park

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace

Summit Lawn & Landscape

12020 Grandview Rd

Superior Lawn & Tree LLC

158th St
Bonner Springs

Supreme Green KC, LLC

12770 Santa Fe Trail Dr.
Lenexa

Sure-Flow

11944 W 95th St
Lenexa

Teacher's Landscaping

5431 Charlotte St

The Leaky Cellar

3175 Terrace St

The Neighborhood Handyman

6900 COLLEGE BLVD
Overland Park

The Plumber LLC

6916 Hardsaw Road

The Plumbing Pro

12519 Blue Ridge

The Yardist

2420 NW Leann Drive

TLC Lawn Care Inc

19600 W 159th St
Olathe

Tope Plumbing

8225 W 91St Terr
Overland Park

total home service

1941 N 45th St
Kansas City

TRUE TURF LAWN MAINTENANCE, LLC

19000 W 158th St
Olathe

Turf Design Lawn & Landscape, Inc.

25775 W 103rd St
Olathe

Ultimate Group LLP

309 West 39th st.

Uttley Construction

120 S Darrowby Dr

Walker Concrete

717 S 11th St
Kansas City

Wilson Concrete & Construction LLC

2632 Six Mile Church Rd

YORK OUTDOORS, INC

16500 W 118th St
Olathe

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