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"I called
and left a message. He called me back within 5 minutes. After explaining that I lost power in half my house,
" stated would be out within the hour.
was very prompt and even on a Saturday. He diagonosed the problem within a few minutes and said it was a ComEd problem.
called ComEd and reported the problem. ComEd followed up with a visit within an hour as well. Even though
spent a few minutes with the diagnosis, he took the time to speak with me about the upcoming sale of my house and some other issues I had. I appreciated his suggestions and will take his advice. I will post his company on my Facebook page so all my friends know about this reputable electrician. Thank you
for helping me out in a pinch!

-Laura J.

"I called as a new client and
called me back right away.
then tried to ascertain over the phone if I needed them" or not....what great people! I was worried I wouldn't find someone to come out last minute on a Friday but I didn't have to worry with this company. They sent
out and he was there mid-day when I had just called and spoke to them that morning.
was great! He showed me what I should have seen in the breaker box and then noticed there was something wrong with the switch. Everyone was very professional. I wish I could find more companies like this one. Will definitely use again and have already recommended to others. If I could give them an A++ I would.

-Tracy Lee M.

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Local Articles in De Soto

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

electrical wiring

“I feel extraordinarily comfortable with Mike in the house ..." — Angie's List member Holly Cornelius

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in De Soto


This is the second time I've used this company, and they were as excellent this time as the last. A friend recommended them after I had been charged for unnecessary repairs by another company.
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the technician who provided this service call; and he was professional, thorough, and especially patient in answering my gazillion questions. He checked the unit outdoors, the main component in the attic, and each rooms' actual air temperature output. I really appreciated also that he educated me about several things which will ensure my unit's longevity as well as reduce my energy bills. The receptionist who took my call found my record right away, seemed genuinely pleased I was returning for business, and set up my appointment courteously and without delay.
It is a pleasure to do business with companies like
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
, where one can have confidence in the honesty of its staff. Their prices are very reasonable also. I actually didn't have anything wrong with my unit except "operator error"...........I had accidentally put the fan in "continuous" mode instead of "auto". Since I hadn't had my unit checked for a while, it certainly would have been easy enough to tell me I needed Freon (given Houston's weather) and charged me a higher fee; but
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
's integrity is just one more example why I'll ONLY use and recommend this company for any of my AC and heating needs. A+++

Excellent job. Setting up the appointment was easy - excellent and prompt communication. Electricians were efficient, friendly, and knowledgable. This will be our go-to electric service company.
- Douglas A.

De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
did a great job.
They arrived a couple hours after the stated time frame but was no big deal as we were home.
Very profressional and friendly.
- Lowell V.

The work was fast, professional and almost a year later has held up very well. There was a minor hiccup where the wrong cable was installed for the workout room, but this was remedied without delay. The manual transfer switch was customized and labeled to my satisfaction, with the electrician making several adjustments as we went along so now the house works very well on emergency power during outages.
- Peter M.

I went great. They were easy to contact. They came out right away to look at the job and place a bid on the project. Then they scheduled installation quickly. Easy, Easy, Easy.
- Robyn P.

It was very alarming to find my dimmer smelling like burning plastic after a bad thunder. I, of course was worried sick that it could cause a fire and burn the entire house down. I talked to
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
who has absolutely amazing at calming me down and asking all the right questions to determine whether it was an emergency or something that could wait and determine if it was safe. Even though no actual physical service was performed, he was great at helping me out. He was honest and willing to recommend other companies that could come help in the next following days since they were booked until next week. I will definitely use
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
for all my electric needs from now on!
- Liza C.

De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
is aptly named. Quick response, friendly but efficient, professional, and reasonably priced.

I took three estimates. The first took forever just to respond and schedule, would not even listen to my concerns about underground placement, and left me feeling like they could care less. The second priced out more than double over the other two estimates for the job, and left me feeling intimidated about possibly replacing practically every bit of electrical in my house. Then I texted out to several electricians on Angie's. List.
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the first to respond.

De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
cared about the job and backed it up with great work.
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
went above and beyond and noticed things I needed that I never even thought about - like since I'm disabled, adding a switch next to the house so I wouldn't have to walk all the way across the yard to turn off my pool pump. He checked for my approval every step along the way, And he didn't mind all of my questions. (On a side note: I mentioned that I had trouble finding someone to come out and backfill after the pool install. He offered his skills in that area and did a great work with that job too. He even helped move things in the yard just to help me out as he saw my need.) But back to the electrical . . .

I will definitely trust
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
with all of my electric jobs in the future. I would say -
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
has a company you can trust. Professionalism and work effort above par! It's like finding that great
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
hotel where you know you can recommend with confidence that others will be able to relax and enjoy the same great service that you experienced - I recommend
De Soto Electricians Provider Name Locked
with an A+.
- Sherri E.

My husband and I were not pleased with the price of "services" rendered. We immediately called another electric company and they delivered (see my review dated, August 28, 2015) exceptional service beginning with the Office Manager and ending with the electrician the company sent out. This second company that I called charges a $45 service call, but if you use them, the service charge is applied to the work done. This second electric company provided excellent, quality customer service at a fair and reasonable price. They installed both light fixtures for a total of $85. We plan to call them back to install the exhaust fan. Their company's electrician quoted us a price to install the exhaust fan that was less expensive than Desert Electric and offered a coupon. All in all, we paid $188. If we had gone with the second company first, we could have saved $103! In conclusion, I will not hire Desert Electric Company again and I feel they should at least reimburse us for the "other services" that were charged us.
- Joye J.

Electricians in De Soto, KS

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$49 Handyman

3411 W 77th Terrace
Prairie Village

$49 handyman

3411 W 77 Ter
Prairie Village

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr

A-Team Electric

7104 N. Holmes

AA Construction

PO Box 945

Aarons Services

P.O. box 24085

AB May

7100 E 50th St


De Soto

Above & Beyond Deep Cleaning

2703 W. 40th Ave.
Kansas City

Absolute Electric Inc

1313 SE Cherry Tree Ln

Absolute Home Renovation

8825 Bond Street
Overland Park


9407 Fairwood Dr


3031 S 23RD CIR
Kansas City

Affordable Energy Solutions

4445 NE Blue Jay Drive

Affordable Solutions Inc

Rt. 1 box 255 P


9801 W 106th St
Overland Park

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

ALH Home Renovations LLC

4710 Mission Rd
Roeland Park

All Action Contractors

303 North West Central

All Current Electric

P.O. Box 25341
Overland Park


6021 knox

All Under One Roof

716 S Meadowbrook Street

All Wire LLC

36182 W 287th St.

Amiel Hillman

6239 N Mercier St

Andy OnCall

Greater Kansas City Area

Angel Services

3611 Olive St

Anthony's Home Improvement

PO Box 4582
Overland Park




9310 W 87TH ST
Overland Park

ASAP Electric

11800 Shawnee Mission Pkwy

Asap Hvac LLC

309 Hill St

ASAP Services

11800 Shawnee Mission Parkway Suite 22

Ault Design and Construction

1212 SE Broadway Dr


1713 E Stagecoach Dr

Barber Construction

10007 E 211th St

Barlow Interiors, LLC

1233 E. Westerfield PL

Barnds Companies

10000 W 135 St
Overland Park


6401 Woodward St

Bickimer Electric LLC

11216 W. 113th Street
Overland Park

Big Chief's Plumbing & Tile Co

11215 W 61st Pl


2212 w 48th ter

Bill Dean Mechanical Company

18156 Donahoo Rd

CabinetReface Kitchens & Bathrooms

10029 PERRY DR
Overland Park



Cartridge World

6024 NE Antioch Rd

Catalyst Construction LLC

7117 Cedar
Prairie Village

Champion Window of Kansas City

7920 Marshall Dr
Overland Park


14687 S. Constance St.


319 E 11TH AVE

Clint Edmonson

3622 Park Ave




PO Box 15717

Complete Property Solutions

7700 Wedd St
Overland Park

Complete Restoration and Remodeling

10787 Oakmont St.
Overland Park

Computer Medics of Kansas City LLC

11938 West 119th Street
Overland Park

Consolidated Contractor Services Inc

7421 Royalty Way

Construction DesignWorks LLC

7001 W 76th St
Overland Park

Coppnet Communication LLC

1628 North Corrington

Cordray Construction LLC

650 Juniper St

CPC Appliance Repair

6221 Webster Ave
Kansas City

Craig Packham

2013 Cypress Way

Custom Christmas Lighting

230 NE Chateau Dr

Custom Home Services

37403 E Pink Hill Rd


Overland Park

Dan Row Construction

10118 W. 65th Dr

Daniel_Williamson Remodeling

11223 Bristol Terrace

Danielsan Electric

PO Box 442646

Dean the Granite Guy

11501 Conser St
Overland Park


9006 W 121st Ter
Overland Park

Depetre Remodel & Repair

129 Oak St
Bonner Springs

Diamond Electric Service

21325 west 105th street

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Don's Auto Center Inc

920 E 11th St

Donco Electric

11184 Antioch
Overland Park


7668 Norwood St
Prairie Village

Donohue's Lightning Rods

501 N Las Vegas Trail

DOTec Engineering Corp

424 Jefferson St

Dream Stone Creations

18211 Flynn Dr


24100 Arnoldsville Rd.

Dynamic Porch & Patio

3300 Blue Ridge Cutoff

E & C Remodeling, LLC

12400 Holmes Rd

E=IR Electric, LLC

2182 W Elm St

EandR Power Solutions

2422 Harvard Ave

Electrical Associates

308 W Elm St

Electrician Kansas City

435 Nichols Road

Elite Electric KC, LLC

2211 N 145th Terrace


5450 Apache Dr

Evans & Company Construction LLC

10332 W 79th St
Overland Park

Fatboy Electric Inc

11515 Hickman Mills Dr

Fentress Builders Inc

6006 E 38th St

Ferguson Incorporated

14302 S Alden Ct

Ferwalt Construction

421 N Boardman St

First General Services of Kansas City

708 NW R.D. Mize Road Suite J

Fixin' Lawnmowers

Overland Park

Flow Electric LLC

7439 E 83rd st

Free Energy

605 N High St

Freeman Construction Services LLC

619 N Walnut St


PO BOX 18096

Fusion Electric

PO Box 3219

Garry Calvin Contracting LLC

5910 Reinhardt Dr

GFI Renovations, LLC

18921 E Valley View Pkwy.

Glen Mock Construction LLC

6421 Gladstone Dr

Graham Services

9214 Kessler
Overland Park

H&H Contracting

14566 Granada Cir
Overland Park



Hallowell Contracting

9936 Slevin Ln

Handyfolks Inc

6229 W 122nd St

Handyman Connection - Kansas City

10000 W 75th St
Overland Park

Handyman for Rent

5505 Blue Ridge Blvd

Handyman Matters of Johnson County

14405 W 123rd Terrace

Handyworks, LLC

1166 E Westerfield Pl

Hardee electric

419 w cambridge


1715 S MUR-LEN

Hasenohr Electric Inc

2004 NE 92nd St

Heritage Exterior Design LLC

124 N Prairie Street

Hi-Tech Electric, Inc.

1524 NE 99th Street

Hochanadel Handy Service

9225 Farley St.
Overland Park

Home Electric

8121 Dearborn Drive
Prairie Village

Home Electric Service (The Taijens Group, LLC)

9918 W 116th Place
Overland Park

Home Maintenance Solutions

2705 West 120th Place

Homes by Nick

7590 High Dr
Prairie Village


14480 W 187 TH TER


1730 S 49TH ST
Kansas City


412 N 13TH ST

Honey-Do's Handyman Services Inc

2324 N 1500 Rd.

Hupps Custom Cabinets

32750 190th St

I&R Home Remodeling and Repair

1009 S Cardinal Pl


660 North Lindenwood Dr

Irwin Electric LLC

5816 Merriam Dr

iWire Electric Service, LLC

1442 Redwood Dr

J R Construction, LLC

2001 Grand Blvd



Jameson Remodeling & Home Repair

PO Box 8662
Prairie Village

JB Remodeling

8408 spring valley

Jericho Home Improvements LLC

1954 Foxridge Dr
Kansas City

JF Remodeling & Construction

1878 Minnesota
Kansas City

Jim Saner Home Repairs

11709 W 48th Terrace

JM Electric LLC

8010 w 98th terr
Overland Park

JMC Electric

3407 Merriam Dr.
Overland Park

JMS Tile

315 SE Jackson St
Lees Summit


6506 Royal St.

Johnson County Electric

11221 Roe Ave

Jurassic Construction

5208 Harris Ave

Justin Hatfield Contracting

10119 E 79th Terrace

K & G Home Renovations

5031 Lees Summit RD


PO BOX 7343
Overland Park

K.E. Smith construction

8631 N. Kansas Ave.

KAL Electric

16279 Kranker Dr

Kansas City Electric LLC

1418 N. Glen Ellyn St.

KB Finishes LTD

7815 NW 74th St

KC Home Solutions LLC

804 N Meadowbrook Dr



Kel Star Inc

3508 W 97th Pl

Kelly Reed Contracting

8642 Melrose St
Overland Park

Ladd Service Company

408 E 4th Street

Lee's Auto Service

9914 W 62nd Terrace

Lowe's Home Improvement

4960 Roe Blvd
Roeland Park



Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive
Overland Park

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

Malnar Remodeling

7415 Stearns

Mantooth Restoration

7341 Main Street

Matt-Mark Service Co.

4709 N Cleveland Ave

Max's Mechanical

3945 Main St


PO BOX 1801


5309 Rosewood Drive
Roeland Park

MEL Contracting

1040 NW S Outer Rd

Michael's Handyman Service

97 Sierra Cir

Mike Flood Remodeling

1130 Barnett Ave
Kansas City

Monson Improvement Company Inc

12740 Reeder
Overland Park

Morehead Electric

2201 SW Newton Circle


Overland Park
Overland Park



Mr Electric of Clay County

201 S Commerical Ave

Mr Remodeler

4163 NE Winn Rd

MVP Electric, Heating & Cooling

15038 W 106th St

Nolo Electric llc

8856 Gallery st.

Olympus Remodeling

5227 leavenworth rd
Kansas City

One Stop Motorsports, LLC

7219 W 162nd Ter

OnHome Systems, LLC

510 SW Mission RD

Outdoor Lighting Perspectives of Kansas City

9515 W. 93rd Street
Overland Park

Peak Electric

2205 NW 65th Street

Pet DeFence Hidden Dog Fences

23790 W 121st St

Phaze One Electric

807 E Northview

Phillips Power

26207 Wolcott rd

PHM Facility Services

9500 E 63rd St





Premier Home Repairs

27519 S Tieman Rd

Premiere Custom Designs

20040 Edgerton Rd



Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley

Refined Remodeling

7223 W. 72nd St.
Overland Park


1736 E Harold St



Remodel Inc

23701 E Cowherd Rd

Remodel Masters

13225 S. Foxridge Dr.

Rent A Handyman

2396 W 151st St
Overland Park



REO Home Services LLC

408 E College St

ReTouch Design-Build-Renovate

6025 Metcalf Lane, Suite 310
Overland Park

Ronald Krupich Inc

5704 Richards Cirle

Royal Craftsmen

6223 NW Caney Creek Dr.

Ryan Electric

9639 Redbud Ln


P O BOX 207

SafeHouse Contracting

8407 NE 110th ter

Salazar Constructions LLC

1303 Central Ave
Kansas City

Sandy's Electric Maintenance

9212 Acuff Ln

Schrock Electric Inc

3604 Crestview Rd

Scott Electric

1608 W Elm Terrace

Scott On The Spot Handyman Services

5431 W. 133rd Pl.

Scott The Electrician

PO Box 2195

Scott's Square Deal

11307 S. Lakecrest Dr.

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.


7810 Darnell St



Shogren electric

16307 246th

Smooth Sailing Enterprises

PO Box 1022

Snyder Homes Remodeling

4723 Black Swan Dr

Sparke Electric - Alan R Knight

8307 New Jersey Ave
Kansas City

Steve's Electric


Steve's Home Repair

18475 Canterbury Court

Stewart Bunn

8101 Hadley
Overland Park

Stokes Public Adjusters

16470 S. Laurelwood Street

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace

Systems Plus LLC

15033 W 145th Terrace


8843 Bond St
Overland Park

Tallen Electric LLC

8720 w. 70th ter.


13216 West 99th Street

Taylor Electric Inc

6001 W 101st St
Overland Park

TD Electric Service LLC

8843 Bond
Overland Park

TD Electric Service LLC

8843 Bond
Overland Park

Teague Electric

12425 W 92 St

That K C Painter Guy

12109 Brickyard Rd P O Box 11901

The Cordry Group

10990 Quivira Rd Ste 130
Overland Park

The Hayes Company

1000 E 11th St

The Neighborhood Handyman

Overland Park

total home service

1941 N 45th St
Kansas City

Trendsetter Homes & Reodeling

8115 Shawnee Mission Prkwy

Tri-Services M.E.P. LL

707 W. 28th St. N


p.o. box 7191

Twin Oaks Remodeling & Services Inc

PO Box 23306
Overland Park

Ultimate Group LLP

309 West 39th st.

Uttley Construction

120 S Darrowby Dr


PO Box 70866

William McKeone Construction

244 NE Dreamweaver Ave.

Wilson Custom Construction LLC

6918 W 153rd St
Overland Park


10530 MARTY
Overland Park

Wilson Mechanical Inc

207 W Brasfield

Wire It Up Electric

2807 W 91st Terrace

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

World's Best LEDs

1113 NW Hawk Creek Cr

Xtreme Electric

11910 S Moonlight Rd



Young Remodeling

2517 Jefferson St.

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