Poland Electricians

in Poland, IN

55
Electricians are
in Poland

20
Electricians in Poland
are top rated

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Rated by
Michelle B.
"We had several contractors bid our project, and we are very happy that we selected
. They helped us plan our remodel with 3D renderings of our bathrooms. They" had great ideas for updating the look of our bathrooms while keeping true to our personal style and our budget. They assisted with material selections and helped save us $ due to their extensive relationships with retailers for everything from marble tile to faucets and sinks. We are about 50% complete with our master bath project, and it's looking great. We added marble flooring to the bathroom mid-project, and
was able to be flexible and change gears quickly, which made the process stress-free. Our kitchen looks amazing. Edan helped select the pendant lights over our kitchen island and they are perfect. I really like that
communicates well, sending pictures to me of our job site and showing us recommendations before doing the work. It It made for a smooth process with no unpleasant surprises. Customer service is excellent.
is incredibly responsive: they have taken care of things in a timely way. I highly recommend this company.
N
Rated by
Jeff C.
"We just wanted to get a light installed at the bottom stairs of an apartment building. What a hassle. This job wasn't cheap and it wasn't good.. From the tenant: "As" a former home owner of over 10 years, when I would hire someone to do work on my house I expected a certain level of quality, but to be honest whoever did the electrical work, really just did the least amount of work possible. The light in the entry way has one light switch at the bottom of the stairs, which of course is only useful 50% of the time. You will still have to either walk down/up the stairs in the dark to shut it off or turn it on. The GFI outlet in the bathroom was moved to the other side of the mirror, which is fine, but they left the state of the drywall full of holes where they moved the electrical wires and the GFI outlet. I just wanted you to be aware of the quality of work performed and that there is some damage to the wall in the bathroom where they replaced the outlet." Now the kicker: They used metal conduit to run the wiring! Yup, like you'd see in a warehouse! It looked hideous. we've used
on multiple occasions. Never again.
A
Rated by
Richard M.
"Two servicemen from
arrived about 9 AM and completed their work by about 6 PM that evening. They removed the existing furnace which was probably about forty" years old and sealed the old chimney connection for the old vent pipe. They installed the new equipment on the existing concrete pad of the old furnace and made all the connections to the existing duct work. A new vent pipe had to be installed, which they ran under the basement ceiling to an outside wall. I was particularly impressed by the care they took in installing this vent pipe, since they needed to access the outside basement wall directly behind and over our rec-room piano. They were able to install the pipe without the slightest disturbance to the piano, lighting, photographs or other objects in the work area. Overall, the job would probably have been finished sooner; however, there was a glitch in connecting the new thermostat - it did not appear to be communicating correctly with the new furnace. After a process of trial and elimination, they were able to determine that there was a problem with the old thermostat wiring, which they isolated in the basement ceiling and were able to install new wiring to correct the problem. Other than a standard lunch break, the men were dedicated in their work. They also contacted the City Code Enforcement, who came to inspect the installation, which he approved. I had selected
for this job based on other reviews I had found on Angie's List. By coincidence, only a few days after researching the company online, I came across a kiosk of theirs at the local mall, talked with the company representative and made arrangements for someone to contact me, which they did just a few days later. We made arrangements for a representative to come to the house to review the situation and offer solutions and an estimate. The representative arrived on time, was friendly and helpful and walked me through the company's products and services. We agreed upon what system(s) would be included in our contract and within a few days, the service team was on the scene to install the new system. The price for the new system seemed more than fair, based on my own research. The company offers various financing options and we opted for a 15 month, zero percent interest, financing. We provided a partial payment on the day the service was performed. In sum, the company and its representatives were responsive, very professional and technically proficient. My wife and I are very pleased with the new system.

Local Articles in Poland

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Poland

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Rating
Our home had outdated and malfunctioning smoke alarms, obviously something one would want fixed quickly.
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to squeeze us in immediately and arrived in under an hour. He diagnosed the problem, installed new smoke alarms, and brought the house up to current code by replacing the type of detector in one part of the house. Very happy with his service.
- Ann K.
A

Rating
As soon as I called, an appointment was set-up the following day to trouble shoot all the electrical problems that we were experiencing in the house.
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, punctual, and knowledgeable about the problems we were having. He showed us that the Gfci outlet inside the garage was tripped and had to be reset which was causing all the outside outlet boxes and two laundry room outlets not to be working. Then he replaced the wall dimmer switch in the house that was broken causing the lanai ceiling lights from not working. After doing so, he checked the fixtures around the pool that were broken and needed to be replaced. We picked-out new
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
bird cage light fixtures for around the spa steps that had to be replaced which
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
obtained for us and later installed a few days later. He rewired a good landscape palm tree spot light that was not working. Then he fixed the problem we had with the master-bedroom ceiling fan.
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
spent four and a half hours fixing our electrical problems and answering all our questions. He immediately got to work, cleaned up any mess, was very respectful of not tracking dirt onto our floors in the house by removing his shoes after working in the yard, and his pricing was very reasonable. I will definitely use him again for any electrical or landscape lighting problems I have in the future.
- Evelyn S.
A

Rating
The work went very well.
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the technician, was on time and did a very good job. He was ,also, very courteous and knowledgable. This company has won many local awards in the past and has been chosen as
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
County's best many times by both a "write in" and "computer" vote by past and present customers.
- Howard N.
A

Rating
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very accommodating, thorough and professional. He is very busy so it's hard to schedule next day appointments but that is a sure indication of his quality work and reliability. We would definitely use his services again for future projects.
- Alvin C.
A

Rating
Called
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
in the morning, they arrived just after noon same-day, as promised. Work was completed, neatly and quickly. Would definitely use them again for handyman work.
- Rhett C.
A

Rating
I had three different bids and I chose them as they did the job for us before and the price was reasonable. Everything went very well. The installers were wonderful people to work with. Provided excellent service for us. I highly recommend them. They worked for us before, for a project for recessed lights, they took their time to be sure they do the job right and to our satisfaction. Great Job crew!
- Cheryl B.
A

Rating
Before renting our condo, we needed to make few changes to meet
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
's code for rental units. I thought all I needed was 4 smoke/co detectors, but
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
helped me find other issues that needed to be addressed in order to meet the code. Everything he did made sense to me and we passed the inspection flawlessly.
Poland Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a great guy, personable, professional and he always returns calls/texts/emails more timely than necessary.
- Hina R.

All Electricians in Poland, IN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Absolute Electric & Maintenance LLC

5385 North Lakeview Dr
Bloomington

ACE APPLIANCE

PO BOX 8311
Bloomington

ADVANCE AUTO PARTS

214 E TIPTON ST
Seymour

AL Electric, LLC

4895 Old Morgantown Rd
Martinsville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AMI Contractors LLC

8320 N St. Rd. 37
Bloomington

Austin Construction

4588 Old State Road 46
Nashville

B W ELECTRIC

2632 CHANDLER DR
Poland

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

Bone-Dry Waterproofing Inc

2529 Ridgemar Court

Cassady Electrical Contractors Inc

2200 W Tapp Rd
Bloomington

Craftons Heating & Cooling

2840 W Us Highway 40
Brazil

Crane Remodeling & Contracting, LLC

7156 S Stain Ridge Road
Bloomington

D & S MAINTENANCE INC

1412 S MONON DR
Bloomington

D&M Mechanical

4748s 1250e
Loogootee

Darrell G White Home Repair

2149 Hulman St
Terre Haute

David & Sons

3013 S. Stratford Dr.
Bloomington

DEATON ELECTRIC

4545 N County Road 850 E
Poland

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd
Indianapolis

Douglas B. Spencer Artist, Craftsman, Builder

10122 E. Dobson Road
Bloomfield

Duramax Roofing and Construction Inc

8415 Southern Springs Dr
Indianapolis

Electric Services and Plumbing Inc

1000 W Allen St
Bloomington

Experience Technology

2727 N Walnut St
Bloomington

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Fair & Square Construction LLC

11141 Sunny Slope dr
Poland

Fair & Square Construction LLC

11141 Sunny Slope Dr
Poland

GOODMAN HEATING & COOLING

310 A ST NE
Linton

Joe Schmo Electrical Services

5628 W Southport Rd
Indianapolis

Keith Construction

3113 Dunn Rd
Freedom

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Low Dollar Companies

4056 12B Rd
Bourbon

Master Werks

4125 N Hartstrait Rd
Bloomington

Moore Restoration Inc

3610 Shelby St.
Indianapolis

MORGENSTERN HOME SERVICES

PO Box 3533
Bloomington

One Planet Solar & Wind

2350 Wabash Ave
Terre Haute

Pritchett Bros Inc

108 Briarwood Ln
Bedford

Showcase Electric LLC

3783 Bakers School Road
Spencer

Simanton Mechanical Inc

1297 N Loesch Rd
Bloomington

Solergy LLC

10 N Martingale Rd Ste 400

Sure Seal Restorations

223 W Dodds St.
Bloomington

T&H Electric

3113 Dunn Rd
Freedom

Taylor home improvement

3928 n state rd 45

TS Electric

6395 E Kerr Creek Rd
Bloomington

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

White's Electrical LLC

PO Box 384
Mooresville

Wilds Restoration Services

1901 N Sherman Dr
Indianapolis

Wilkinson Electric

555 Sherwood Rd
Mitchell

Yoder Dame Construction

120 S Hwy 37
Mitchell

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