Hobart Insulation Contractors

in Hobart, IN

86
Insulation Contractors are
in Hobart

27
Insulation Contractors in Hobart
are top rated

A
Rated by
Tiffiney J.
"
came out and gave me an extremely fair estimate and than took control over all my repairs in a timely controlled manner. There staff cleaned up after them and" did a great job. The gutter's and roof looks great. I have had a great experience with
and would recommend them to everyone. I was able to get a Class 4 upgrade which got me a
discount on my insurance yearly premium. The office staff was extremely nice and helpful.
A
Rated by
Carolyn B.
"It went excellent. They did a great job. They came out when they said they would. Answered all my questions, and explained what needed to be one to get the home up to code. Their estimate" was right on, and we are very satisfied with their work. I will say that there was no pressure on the sale. I original contacted them in June to get an idea of what the service would cost. I did not contact them for three months. It was very important to me not to be pressured by a sale, and I appreciated that.
A
Rated by
EILEEN P.
"It went great! Installers covered all kitchen with plastic first. They drilled holes in the soffit areas and then pumped expanding foam into empty space. They also went into the" attic over family room and foamed uninsulated part of ceiling. The removed plastic from the kitchen and cleaned up any remnants.

Local Articles in Hobart

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Download the Angie's List Fall Maintenance Guide to get started on protecting your home from potentially damaging winter weather. (Graphic design by Matt Mukerjee)
Heating & A/C, Deck Maintenance, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Water Heaters, Plumbing, Roofing, Gutter Cleaning, Garage Doors, Fireplaces, Chimney Sweep, Insulation, Auto Service, Foundation Repair, Lawn Irrigation, Tree Service, Windows

When tree leaves and temperatures begin falling, it's a sign winter is on its way. Use this fall maintenance checklist to protect your home from winter damage.

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Hobart

A

Rating
Great Job!!! We had our windows replaced by
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Services in August, and it went so well we called them back to handle our kitchen replacement and addition onto our house.
- Roanne H.
A

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I couldn't wait to finally sit down and write about my experience with
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. I own a little chalet tucked away in the poconos. This little chalet is my castle. Over the years I have done the very best I could to maintain my home - but with the horrible rain and wind storms we experienced in the recent past - damage was done . The arduous task of contacting and interviewing contractors was about to begin . Getting estimates and finding if personalities were going match wasn't always pleasant and yes making sure that the personalities of the people that are going to work in your home when you aren't there matters a great deal . I say this because it's important that you find contractors that not only do impeccable work but are also approachable and make themselves available if you the home owner have any concerns or worries. This
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is not always easy but I struck gold when
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. came to my door .
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
,
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and Mat were professional, personable and reasonable . They took a lot of time explaining the process , what they were going to do, basically explained how they were going to make the repairs and how long this process would take. They were right on the money with all that they projected . They took my calls or promptly called me back to answer my concerns or requests. They went above and beyond in their repairs and made sure that it wasn't only to my liking but because they are perfectionists, they made sure that they were happy with the way everything turned out as well. I would highly recommend
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. , they did excellent work and wouldn't hesitate to call them again when needed. A job well done - thank you guys!
- Kim N.
A

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Great experience! I called one day and was scheduled for the very next day.
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
explained all that the crew would do, very detailed. The crew was punctual, showed up exactly when they said they would.. It took about 2-3 hours to complete all the work. The crew cleaned up after the work was done and showed me the finished product. Wow! Very neat job done with a walkway to our air conditioner unit. No mess at all, like they were never there. Noticed right away the heat stays in the rooms longer, furnace turns on less. Looking forward to savings next summer when I run my AC.
I definitely recommend!

- Myra H.
A

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I was very pleased with the entire process.
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
provided the initial estimate for the attic fans, insulation and radiant
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. It took several weeks for me to decide and during that time I emailed
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
with questions. He was always quick to respond. Installation crew showed up on schedule and did a very nice job. I was especially impressed with the radiant
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. I have a large attic with a complex roof line and a lot of duct work and the crew was still able to perform the installation in a very neat manner. Everything went as planned with no surprises. Because the installation occurred at the end of the cooling season I will have to wait until next summer to see the results but I am certainly pleased with the work performed and I would use
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
again.
- Scott H.
F

Rating
Over a month ago I called their number and left a message that I wanted them to inspect my house and give me an estimate. A couple days later someone called, took my information, said they were busy at that moment but "Would get back with me". That never happened. Either they have too much work, saw the house and declined, or just not interested. Either way a phone message would have been nice.
- Walter R.
D

Rating
Initially, we were impressed with
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and actually accepted its bid for the job. However, they weren't properly equipped when they showed up to do the work and called me to say that they would have to reschedule. After approximately three days of no communication, I called them to find out when they would be able to finish the project. It was at this time that they said they would have to adjust their bid, so I decided to cancel the project altogether.
- Robert M.
A

Rating
I cannot speak highly enough of
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
(head contractor) from PHRG, as well as all of the staff I worked with throughout the course of the job!!! [Yes, people have complained about the lengthy sales pitch at the start of the process - who doesn't complain when they feel time is being wasted? - but I actually appreciated the time they took with me to go over the minutia of every detail with the amount of money I was going to be spending.] They were on time EVERY time they were working, and
Hobart Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
took the time to do a walk-through almost daily during the project to ensure it's completion to his (and my) standards. The crew even worked on weekends to finish both the roof and the siding; and they scheduled my door installation for the weekend so I could avoid taking a day off of work to be there. The crew seemed very well trained, and were willing to answer any questions I had, and even helped re-wire a security light before leaving the final day when I noticed it was not working! I cannot speak highly enough of this company and their work. Having had my windows and gutters done by them 4 years ago, I can also attest that their warranty is hands-down the best in the business. They are triple-insured, and have always been quick to help with any problem or question (such as when my late husband accidentally shattered the sliding glass door a few years ago while weed-whacking the back yard - oops!). At the end of the projects, they were diligent in their clean-up, and made sure all of my questions were answered (and touch-ups taken care of) before leaving. I know I paid more than what I could have paid with some other companies, but I am willing to spend a little more up front when the service, quality of product, and warranty are so superior!
- Sarah P.

All Insulation Contractors in Hobart, IN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Absolutely Dry

221 N CALUMET
Chesterton

AFFORDABLE REMODELERS, INC.

4207 Oak Grove Dr
Valparaiso

AMARCO Roofing

903 W. Daumer Road
Kouts

American Animal Control

11877 N Pine Rd
Syracuse

AMERICAN BASEMENT SOLUTIONS

1992 OLD STATE RD 44
Martinsville

American Dream Builders

10356 Price St
Crown Point

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Apex Construction & Remodeling

2743 Highway Ave
Highland

AR Construction

6218 Abercorn Ave.
Portage

B&L Work

Chesterton

Bennett Roofing LLC

783 Timberline Pkwy
Valparaiso

DESIGN CONSTRUCTION NWI INC

256 INDIANA AVE
Valparaiso

Done Right, Inc

11604 W 181st Ave
Lowell

Duneland Home & Hardware, Inc

1018 North Karwick
Michigan City

Earl's Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

5050 W 81st Ave
Schererville

Eccentrics

453 Hayes Leonard RD
Valparaiso

Ecoview Windows of Northwest Indiana

8862 Louisiana St
Merrillville

Edens Painting and Remodeling LLC

8747 Fielding Ln
Indianapolis

Eenigenburg Exteriors Inc

13926 W 117th Ave
Cedar Lake

Eenigenburg Roofing

11339 Calumet Ave
Dyer

EXPERT SERVICES

2683 jay st
Lake Station

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Family Waterproofing Solutions

15255 S. 94th Avenue

First National Restoration, Inc

343 W. McCarty St.
Indianapolis

Guardian Pest Control

3045 45th Street
Highland

GW Owens Construction Inc

234 Illinois St
Shirley

Illiana Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

11407 Wicker Av
Cedar Lake

Indiana Spray Foam, LLC

17958 Grant Place
Crown Point

Kraz Construction

9434 Indianapolis Blvd
Highland

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

ManUp

3336 176th Place

Martens & Son Carpenter Contractors Inc

9427 Buchanan St
Crown Point

MEDINA ROOFING INC

323 W DIVISION RD
Valparaiso

MIDWEST CONSTRUCTION CO

1331 BROADWAY
Chesterton

MOMPER INSULATION

2431 W MAIN ST
Fort Wayne

Mr. & Mrs. Fix It!

7742 Burr Street
Schererville

Mr. & Mrs. Fix It!

7775 Burr Street
Schererville

Mr. Handyman of N La Porte, Porter Counties

9896 W. 300 North
Michigan City

Northwoods.Construction LLC

2698 North Van Gogh Dr.
La Porte

Old Farts Construction

220 s. linda st.
Hobart

Perfect Solutions Co

506 Dexter Dr.
Crown Point

Polar Heating and Cooling

13361 Southwest Hwy

Premier Window Systems Inc

7390 Broadway
Merrillville

Professional Home Services

350 Campbell St Ste 24
Valparaiso

R and R Painting and Remodeling

503 Oak Street
Michigan City

Renew Resources LLC

308 N 400 E
Valparaiso

SCHANDER REMODELING INC

2814 Lyndale Way
Long Beach

Schilling

8900 Wicker Ave (US 41)
Saint John

Service Doctor

5150 E US Hwy 30
Merrillville

SKYLINE CONSTRUCTION, LLC.

P.O. Box 322
Griffith

Smiths Construction Services

1690 Starwood Dr
Chesterton

Statewide Roofing & Restoration

824 University Woods Dr
New Albany

STEEL CITY HOME IMPROVEMENT CO INC

6930 BROADWAY
Merrillville

Style-Craft, INC

11108 W 181ST AVENUE
Lowell

Terry's Discount Windows And More LLC

1153 Marsh Street, Suite A
Valparaiso

Tri-County Roofing & Gutters

858 W. Lincoln Way
Valparaiso

TWO UNCLES REMODELING

844 N ELMER STREET
Griffith

USA Insulation

335 W Laura Dr

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Waterproof4Less

15134 Myrtle Ave

Window World of NW Indiana

1558 W. Lincolnway
Valparaiso

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