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Local Articles in Coatesville

Angie's List
Drywall, Fencing, Fencing & Driveway Gates, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Plumbing, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing

Houston roofing complaint | Contractor claims leaks are coming from plumbing, not roof.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing
Homeowner claims property manager hired to oversee roofing work, drywall repair and electrical upgrades allowed contractors to do unsatisfactory and incomplete work.
Angie's List
Florists, Handymen, Landscaping, Landscaping & Lighting, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home

Consider the building materials you use to create outdoor trellises or overhangs, and be sure to spruce up the space with a bit of green.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures

Whether you’re planning a kitchen and bathroom remodel, or just want to add some extra living space to your home, do your homework before you hire. Separating the good contractors from the bad isn’t as difficult as it might seem.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Modular And Mobile Home Remodelers in Coatesville, IN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A New Horizon Renovations LLP

7109 State Road 144

A1 Hoosier Painting and More

419 W Pike St

Ace Custom Flooring

6008 N Oakland Ave

Ade Construction

1851 S 950 W

Allstate Property Solutions

7411 Glendale Dr

Armour Construction & Management Inc

202 N College Ave

Ashbury Ridge

47 Ashbury Rdg

Aurs Carpentry

95 echo lake west drive

B & A Home Remodeling LLC

5639 Woodside dr

barger construction

318 n. drexel ave

Barrett Bryan Builders

1224 8th St.

Better Construction & Renovation

1840 N Livingston Ave

Better Homes General Contracting

938 N. Fenton Ave.

Billman Interior Remodeling

6907 Stein Rd

Boomerang Home LLC

2850 Saddle Club Road

Breaking the Law Landscaping

244 N. Old S.R. 67 South

Brown Remodeling

3790 Shafer Ct

Bulldog Home Remodeling and Repair

1308 E Ohio St

C&C Total Construction

20608 Lamong Rd

Cadtek Designs, Inc.

4728 N 400 West





Carver Construction Company

7234 pheasant ridge drive

CD's Unique Builders

2314 N. Auburn St

CLEARview Professional Window Cleaning

6440 Saint Joe Dr.

Closet Connection

5619 Edgewood Trace Blvd

Collins Carpentry

347 Andscott Dr

CTS Contracting

P.O. Box 17948

D&D Handyman Services

3401 N Wittfield St

Dan's Handi Work

12026 Broadway St

David Hazen Group LLC

4861 W 106th St

DC Contracting

604 East Mill St

DC Roofing & Exteriors

596 Metarie Dr

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DME Construction

3215 N. Colorado



England's Electrostatic Painting

8107A E 30th St

Express Restorations, Inc

830 W Banta Rd

Extreme Property Solutions

8751 Rockville Rd

Falls City Roofing

4332 Country View Dr.
Floyds Knobs

Father and son Drywall

9620 east 191st St

First Due Company

P.O. Box 146

Floor Crafters Inc

12345 Old Meridian


PO Box 185
New Palestine

Gabbe Inc

240 Wyndotte Dr

General Supply Inc

5920 Decatur Blvd

Gilpin's Construction

4021 Franklin Rd

haley construction

13144 Conner Knoll Pkwy

Hamilton Construction and Remodeling LLC

41 Pine Dr. Apt 8

Hancock Home Improvement

523 west 600 north

Handy Repair Guys LLC

1389 W 86th St

Handyman Connection

5610 Crawfordsville Rd

HD Contracting

1739 N 600 W

Heron General Projects

6361 Hazelwood Ave


201 Jefferson Blvd

Hoosier Carpenter

318 N Vine St

IN Asset Services LLC

7218 Highland Rd

Indiana Professional Contractors LLC

2031 Silver Ln Dr

Indy Contractors Inc

1221 N Madison

Indy Home Detailers


Jason Schwedler Construction LLC

PO Box 20087

JL Remodeling

6405 McDougal St

Jorge's Handyman Services

4707 Brookville Rd

Joseph's Custom remodel

p.o. box 510

JW Contracting

105 Jordan Court

Kent Shaffer Builders Inc

8649 E 250 S


6067 polonius court

King Brothers

1500 n Harrison st

King Kong Roofing

218 n. Jefferson st.

Klean Restoration, Inc

2176 N Meridian St

Kodiak Construction

Bunkerhill rd

Lake Of The Pines Mobile Home Park

8700 W 21st St

Legacy Window & Door LLC

540 N. Range Line Rd


1232 Odell Ln

M.E.K.A. Services

13259 N. Forest Dr

Mager Enterprises, LLC

612 Main St.
Beech Grove

McGinn Construction & Remodeling

6149 Navy Cir

Modern Maintenance and Renovations LLC

5326 Norwaldo Ave

Monarch Destinations LLC

8310 Allison Point Blvd

Morris Construction

3713 Lima Ct

MPG Renovations

6899 S. Franklin Road

No Limit Contracting

2008 South Elizabeth Street

One Source Construction

230 Anderson ST

Outer Limits Construction LLC

7703 W Shelby 250 S

P B J Construction & Handyman Services, L L C

12096 Sail Place Drive

Perkins Management Services LLC

5314 N Michigan Rd

PMK Services Inc.

972 E Pleasant Run Pkwy N Dr

R Henson Enterprises LLC

4025 E Stop 11 Rd.

R Wright Construction & Remodeling

567 Fairway Dr

R.E.O Services

4827 Walker Street



Red Head Rehabs

1541 N Laurel Avenue

Reliable Seamless Guttering

9430 N Karen Dr

Respectable Restoration LLC.

1092 N State Rd 267

Rick's Roofing & Construction

1415 South 19th Street
New Castle

Rockstar's Home Improvement

3550 n hawthorne ln.

Ron's 24 Hr Mobile Mechanic Service

5151 Elmwood Ave


New Palestine

SB10 Contracting LLC.

3356 Voigt Dr.

Shaevitz Constrction

3410 Winings Ave

Skaggs Construction, LLC

139 S Boehning St

Sosbe Remodeling

219 s walcott st

STIG Management

810 South Harbor Dr.


319 Harlan Dr

Sure Seal Restorations

320 W Country Club Rd

TAG Exteriors

6407 S. East St.

TC Real Estate Services

910A N Green St

The Heritage Handyman

208 Jefferson Valley

The Home Engineering Group

1652 Dr. Andrew J. Brown Avenue

Vincent Decorating LLC

1572 Rolling Ridge Rd

Waltman Construction Co., LLC

PO Box 1951

West construction inc

7650 Santa Barbara Dr

Wolff Construction Service

PO Box 5014

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