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"Prompt and profesional without the "attitude" of some professionals. Liked talking with him he was very knowledgable and personable. We will be using" him again in the future for a solar fan and attic insulation. He gave me a great price quote while he was out. We even had some confusing about the address and when he found out I was actually next door he came back with no questions asked, just a great company to use.

-Clarissa M.

"Utilized the "Big Deal"; provider called within hours and offered very flexible dates and times. Technician showed up on time, very professional and polite." He had all the tools he needed, explained what he would do and what to expect. Did through inspection of insulation, provided recommendations and then moved on to see outside of building. Gave good recommendations to prevent water from coming into building. He wasnt pushy at all and instead when I asked if I should get any further work done he said no need ;) For under $50 this is superb service and gives you great feeling especially when you have no issues what so ever from insulation, attic, basement perspectives.. Super recommend!!!

-Vemuri Bhaskar G.

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Local Articles in Sterling

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Sterling


Triangle was a true partner in our business venture as we upgraded and renovated a 100 year old bed and breakfast.
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
who lead the project was there for us every step of the way and each trade from foundation to plumbing and electrical to carpentry and much more exceeded our expectations over the 6 month renovation. We highly recommend Triangle!!
- Teresa S.

At first I was unsure whether to go with open cell or closed cell on a metal roof.I called 3 companys and demanded the owners to come out and explain to me,which is better for me to use .Not only did
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the salesman form
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
were the first to respond he also set a date for a consolation. The owner
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out and explained the answers to all my questions.I kept enterating that I wanted a good job.He told me that his supervisor
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
would be on the job from start to finish and he would make sure that all my needs are met.Well ,when
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys arrived i was standing on my porch like a drill
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.I told him that i will be watching him like a hawk and i wanted a good job.
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
went over every inch of the attic and told me the procedures and the correct way to install the open cell.
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys did that.
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys were very respectful and professional.Last week I set my a/c at 79 degrees and it would not shut off.this week i set my a/c at 72 and it shuts off for most of the day and its hot.Wow this really works.Now I'm actually can be comfortable in my own house.I feel like i should have done this a long time ago.I feel like sunlight contracting did the best job.They are and will be hard to out perform,and guess what, they beat the other two companies bids.Thanks sunlight contracting.I will tell all my friends and family.
- ann M.

Our home was built in 1972, and had very little in the way of insulation. We wanted to fix that, so we started looking for companies. This company was recommended by
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Energy and was really wonderful to work with.
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came and did the the quote. He was very knowledgeable, professional and made us feel very comfortable. They were scheduling 3 weeks out, but added us to a cancellation list, and we were able to get the insulation installed the very next week! They were very efficient at the job and we are very pleased with the work they did. We would highly recommend them!
- Jessica I.

Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was early to my house and inspected the roof from the ground. I have a one story home, so the roof is visible. He explained what he observed the next step to complete the job. The worker came to repair the roof and any other damage he noticed. The work was done and he left! I wish he would have talk to me before he left!
- Michael R.

Arrived on time and were extremely courteous and professional the entire time they were here. I have a 2 story home and the master bedroom was quite a bit warmer than other rooms in the house. I was considering modifying my ducting system to provide more A/C to this room but decided to first try adding more insulation. I obtained bids from 3 companies and Attic Insulation was the highest, nearly $1,000 more than my 2 other bids. However, I was impressed that JB,who made the proposal, knew his stuff. As an engineer myself (as was JB) I had many questions and he patiently addressed them all. I had doubts that wrapping the closet with e-shield was anything more than a marketing gimmick. I questioned whether going to R-60 was cost effective vs R-49. I decided that spending about $500 more for R-60 increased the probability of keeping my bedroom cooler. My other 2 bids did not include any special treatment for the closet which already had fiberglass insulation around it. The results have been noticeable. On hot days, the upstairs bedroom is 5-6 degrees cooler than it was before. It makes sleeping at night much more comfortable. I am very pleased with the result and would highly recommend Attic Insulation. This is all they do and they know their business.
- Ken F.

They were really easy to get a hold of. They came and did what they were supposed to do. They cleaned up. They talked to me about any issues. They were able to work with me through a couple of issues that we had.
- Sasha A.

we've used
Sterling Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's company a few times before and we have always been satisfied. This time is no different He and his crew framed a addition for us and finished the outside roof/siding and inside wiring,insulation, drywall and paint Hardwood floors and trim
- jennifer W.

Existing owner had to replace the roof before we could get our homeloan funded. We picked out the color we wanted, since we were going to be the future owners of the house. Once the work was done, we saw that the new shingles were the wrong color and we called the contractor to see what could be done. He was unconcerned since he had already been paid for the work and expressed no remorse toward us regarding the roof color. We weren't expecting him to really DO anything, but it would have been great if he had expressed some concern. Since he was paid by the previous owner, he had very little reason to concern himself with our satisfaction.
- Kristy T.

Insulation Contractors in Sterling, IL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



All-Pro Home Improvement

97 Marion Street
Walnut Hill

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Anything Exterior, Inc

17919 Grandview Dr

Billy the kid & Son

401 E 1st. St.

blast master

14727 n 200th street

Carter Quality Home Improvements


CJ Insulation

305 Boombah Blvd

Custom Construction & Remodeling

475 E Court Street - Suite 83

Cyber Bridge Marine, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie St

Dave's Contracting & Cleaning Inc

All over Illinios

E and J Services

21828 Dove Lane


29755 1250 East St

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Fivestone Foundations

915 Benton Street

Guaranteed Comfort and Energy

1507 Vandilla St.



Healthy Spaces

2501 N Cullen Ave

Illiana Insulation Inc

PO Box 300
Cissna Park

Illinois Valley Insulation

PO Box 364

Insulation Service

11693 N County Road 1200e

J & R Remodeling and Construction

215 W 16th St

JB&D Siding & Window-Galesburg

425 Home Blvd.

Mid Northern Construction

412 E Dixon St

Power Home Remodeling Group

9450 West Bryn Mawr Avenue

Prairie State Insulation

706 26th St

R Cozzie Waterproofing

633 N Center St

Robinson Roofing & Sheet Metal Inc

667 E Lasalle Street

Saunders Insulation

201 E. Winslow Rd

Solutions Contracting

1173 BAinbridge St

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stormpro Construction LLC

548 Legend Lane

Sunshine Exteriors Llc

18-2 E Dundee Rd

Top Notch Remodeling Inc

12040 S Aero Dr


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Window World

1100 NW Valley Ridge Dr.

Shop Local Insulation Services in Sterling, IL

Sterling Zip Codes

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