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A
"I had waste water seeping ups from the drain in my basement. I called
about 9:30. He showed up about 10:30. He provided estimates of what" it would cost depending on the services provided. The problem was roots (in several places) in the pipe from my house to the city sewer line.
used a camera to determine the problem and showed me what he saw on the camera at 3 interim steps. Once the job was complete, he showed me that the pipe was clean all the way out to the city sewer line. He was prompt, professional and courteous.

-Ethel P.

A
"They said they would be there at a specific time--only a couple of hours from my call. They called to say they were on the way, and arrived at the earliest time" of their estimate. The used a camera to find the clog and then cleaned it all out. The work took less than an hour, and they even gave suggestions of things to do to prevent a recurrence. Very happy with the work.

-LEON M.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Mount Vernon

C

Rating
The person that came out was very nice, professional, did a good job. He was also on time and overall it was a good experience. The only difficulty that I had with them was that he was not able to put on the cap and he stated that he would do it as a fill in. They never returned to come out and complete the work. In the end I had to hire another plumber to complete the project.
- Linda Z.
A

Rating
After finding
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
through Angie's list, on 7/22/15, I called & had a very pleasant conversation with
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
about what I needed. He immediately set an appointment for Friday, 7/24/15, at 10:00am, saying they would call before coming out. I thought I would have about an hour to clean out my old refrigerator, so when they called, it was sooner than I expected. I said I would need more time.
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
said that was fine & he could wait awhile. He arrived at about 10:15, & I was ready, frazzled but ready! He was very friendly and clearly explained what needed to be done & set to work. Shortly,
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
also arrived & they finished up very quickly. I was very satisfied with their work & certainly would use them again, if needed.
- Connie L.
A

Rating
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, was courteous, professional, punctual and personable. Job was done well with full explanation of options and description of issues. The price was nice! This company is a great choice if you need this type of service.
- Jennifer H.
F

Rating
No show on first promised service time, late on second and didn't bring any equipment to fix the issue. Came back the next day and "fixed" the issue. Currently waiting for them to come back since the fix didn't even last 24 hrs. Cost was much higher than I would have expected for a small and
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
job.
- Betsy J.
A

Rating
He was prompt, professional and friendly, and was able to come by the next morning when we called at 4:30 in the afternoon. The quality of work was very good, he was on time and we were charged exactly what we were initially quoted (plus a $30 off coupon for finding them through Angie's list). I'd be happy to call them again if we have any further drain problems.
- Eliza B.
C

Rating
I called the company and asked (begged) them to come out the next morning in advance of yet another anticipated heavy rain. They were kind and came by that night to take a look at the drain. I had already purchased a $140 coupon that was good for 50ft of snaking, but when they came by Friday night, they estimated that it would be another 50 ft of work, so they would charge an additional $160. In retrospect, I should have pushed back on that. What sense does it make that an addition 50ft would more than double the price? But I accepted because they could do it quickly, I had already purchased the $140 deal and I desperately wanted the water to stop coming in.
They were there first thing Saturday morning to snake it the drain. It turned out that they had rented the snake (said theirs was broken). Well, this snake was broken, too, so they left and returned with a new snake. To their credit, they worked for HOURS in the pouring rain to try and clear the drain, but to no avail. In the end, they said that the pipe probably needed to be replaced.
I appreciate their responsiveness and their really hard work and general kindness. I was a little uncomfortable that they didn't seem to have their own equipment, didn't know what coupons they had up on the website, said the coupons were incorrect, and then charged more than double the price of the original work.
- Reagan B.
A

Rating
Good. Found a 21 ft blockage in the pipe that drains a large section of the home. Blocked by tree roots and plastic pipe was collapsing. This is what I needed to know.
- DEBORAH C.
A

Rating
Mount Vernon Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was able to come out the same day the drain backed up. He was on time and professional. He was the first person to ever clean out the main line completely and, using a camera, discovered information about it that will help us in the future. We have had the drain cleaned out many times and he has done the best job by far. We will definitely use this company again.
- Anne D.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Mount Vernon, IL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ASE Flo-Rite Inc

2836 N Brookfield Rd

Baltzell Plumbing LLC

17889 New Ohio Coal Rd
Pittsburg

Ben Cordes Plumbing

201 N. Greenbriar Rd
Carterville

Champion Plumbing

327 Missouri Ave.
East St. Louis

Custom Construction & Remodeling

475 E Court Street - Suite 83
Kankakee

Dave's Contracting & Cleaning Inc

All over Illinios
Plainfield

First Response Drain Service

915 Eva Ln.
Sandwich

Ford's Plumbing Inc

305 Pine St
Waltonville

H.O.M.E. LLC

Montgomery

Hays Plumbing Co Inc

7010 Fulton Rd
New Berlin

Heartland Plumbing & Sewer Inc

20 E. Highland Dr.
Bristol

Kilmans Drain Cleaning

PO Box 333
Hurst

Mr. Rooter of Dubuque

2616 Van Buren St

RJ Graham Plumbing Inc

9735 W 191st
Mokena

Solutions Contracting

1173 BAinbridge St
Barry

T & S Plumbing & Contracting LLC

1307 N College St
Mount Vernon

WIELT PLUMBING

19813 E. Fairfield Rd.
Bluford

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