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C
"Our 12 year old water heater sprung a leak, luckily I had a water alarm on the floor so we had no other damage. We had used Action for other work and liked their" service. We called them and were quoted approximately $1050 for a new water heater of the same type. The actual service and installation was great. When we got our bill in the mail it was over $1300. When we called to inquire, we were told we were originally quoted the
price and the actual bill included additional Fort
fees that were required. Action knew we lived in Fort
as a repeat customer and we gave them our address on the original call to schedule and get the estimate. I would think Action would have made good on the original estimate...they did not...very disappointing. Make sure you tell any plumber where you live right up front when getting a water heater replacement estimate, and ask about the city fees.

-Dennis K.

A
"
is great! I called yesterday and he was able to come to my home today. He arrived on time and got everything I needed done, complete in" record time! He only performed the work that really needed to be done and didn't try to do work that wasn't really necessary. Thank you,
!

-Danielle C.

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Local Articles in Pearl City

4 common plumbing scams and how to avoid them

Some plumbers are in the business just to make a quick buck. Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Hiring a Plumber

When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

attractive kitchen with new faucet over sink
Plumbing, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom

Dear Angie: How much would it cost to install a kitchen faucet? – Kelly W. of Washington, D.C.

water softener
Water Softeners, Plumbing

Does your water taste or look a little funky?

Today's faucets are easier than ever to install. It's removing the old one that gets tricky and may require a plumber. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Plumbing

On the latest installment of Chat with the Experts, Terry Illy explains how to manage common plumbing problems such as leaky faucets and clogged drains.

Sump pump and pipe
Plumbing, Basement Waterproofing

Use this guide to help you know when a noise warrants a call to your local plumber.

Inspiration & Ideas

granite countertop and backsplash
bathroom remodel with granite countertop and backsplash
bathroom remodel with double vessel sinks and garden tub
bathroom remodel with double vessel sinks
marble tiles in shower
glass tile backsplash in bathroom

Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Pearl City

A

Rating
Pearl City Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was excellent. He was very nice and knowledgeable. He took the time to explain what he found and also what should be done next.
We had some difficulty with the scheduling. We initially made an appointment but the day it was scheduled they did not show. When we called the office had no record of the appointment. They did a good job in making up for this. We had the next available appointment which was the same day it was just much later in the day.
The price a little high. But the work was excellent. We would definitely use them again.
- Kristin D.
F

Rating
This plumbing problem has been an ongoing issue. I had to call him back and he claimed it was a different problem. He made minor tweaks, but nothing has worked. The leak is ongoing. He was never able to resolve it, but he charged me $733.95. I'm in the hole and have to call someone else to investigate and solve.
- Kimberly W.
A

Rating
Pearl City Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was very prompt, professional, and courteous. He did an excellent and clean job. He also had some very helpful recommendations when I asked him about my outside hose. I will definitely use him again in the future.
- Jeffrey D.
F

Rating
Showed up 2 hours late. Charged $99. to show up then $148 per hour labor with at least a 1 hour minimum, but that was only the beginning as it was stretched out to 2 an 1/4 hours of labor . plus the parts equaled $511. Plumber sat talking on the phone in the driveway talking to another company plumber for a while at my expense. Run don't walk away from this company
- susan R.
A

Rating
It went very well. Response was quick. Staff friendly, skilled and professional. Would not hesitate to call them again.
- joan H.
A

Rating
these guys are the best I've ever used. Instead of just, taking the cover off, turning on the water and blowing out the evap cooler, these guys took it apart, the the vacuumed it, oiled all the moving parts, washed the thick pads , reassembled the cooler, tested it and finished everything in about an hour or less. Awesome!
- Larry T.
F

Rating
The description of what was to be provided was not clear to me. The $39 is a trip charge, not a service call! Buyer beware!
Plumber came in and gave me a ridiculous price just to replace 3 water filters! I was very disappointed by this company. I'll not use again.
- DENNIS O.
A

Rating
My air conditioning stopped working late Friday night and I made the call to
Pearl City Plumbers Provider Name Locked

around 3:00AM. The call was answered by
Pearl City Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, not a answering service or voice message,
and I was told a service technician would be dispatched at 7:30AM. I received a call from technician
at 7:40AM telling me he was on way and would arrive shortly. Once arrived he quickly diagnosed the problem and
checked my newly functioning A/C unit that it was working properly. It was not, he said that it was
low on refrigerant. I gave the go ahead to recharge and now my air conditioner is working much better than it was before
it broke down. One special note about the service I received, the technician took extra time to make sure the A/C unit was charged properly.

- CATHERINE M.

Plumbers in Pearl City, HI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

808 Home Services, LLC

PO BOX 22987
Honolulu

808 Plumbing & Services

590 Farrington Hwy Bldg
Kapolei

A-1 Budget Plumbing

131 Hekili St
Kailua

ABC Handyman Hawaii

430 Lewers St.
Honolulu

Aina 1 Plumbing

PO Box 971555
Waipahu

AirCare Environmental Services Inc

831 Pohukaina St
Honolulu

Ala Wai Plumbing

99-942 Lalawai Dr
Aiea

Alaka'i Mechanical Corp

2655 Waiwai Loop
Honolulu

All Trade Services

1011 Prospect St
Honolulu

Allens Plumbing

360 Papa Pl #104
Kahului

Alliance Plumbing LLC

45-440 Kulauli St.
Kaneohe

AMERICAN LEAK DETECTION - HAWAII

47-806 Ahuimanu Rd
Kaneohe

Apjet Interiors

1720 Ala Moana Blvd
Honolulu

ASAP Plumbing LLC

1615 Barron Ln
Honolulu

Banzai Plumbing, LLC

111 Hekili St.
Kailua

Bartels Builders Inc

944 Lunaawa Pl
Kailua

Bills Handyman Services

91-1040B Hoomaka Street
Ewa Beach

C&J Solar Solutions LLC

45-605 Uhilehua St
Kaneohe

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

CJ Plumbing

PO Box 1184
Aiea

Clean Sewer Lines Hawaii

207 Wahiawa
Wahiawa

CRU KUSTOM WORKZ

5 Sand Island Access Road
Honolulu

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Drain Daddy

99-446 Kekoa Pl
Aiea

Eco Floors & Cabinets

98 019 Kamehameha Hwy
Aiea

Executive Construction

2634 Ipulei Pl
Honolulu

Greekz Plumbing LLC

59 425 Makana Rd
Haleiwa

Handyman at Your Service

P.O. Box 25474
Honolulu

HandyWorks

94-1054 Heahea St
Waipahu

Hawaii Plumbing Group

2027 Republican St
Honolulu

Hirayama Plumbing & Repair Service

1503 Kaleilani Pl
Pearl City

Honey Do Handyman

520 Kaimake Lp
Kailua

Insolid

94-425 Maikoiko St
Waipahu

Integrated Plumbing Service LLC

PO Box 282
Pearl City

Iron Horse Plumbing

540-F Malie Pl
Honolulu

Island Drain & Sewer LLC

1090 Kalai Pl
Pearl City

ISLAND SOLAR SVC

225 QUEEN ST
Honolulu

J Mac Plumbing

4348 Waialai Ave
Honolulu

k max plumbing

94-426 alapine st

Kama'aina Plumbing

940B Queen St
Honolulu

Kings HandyMan Services LLC

2015 Ala Wai Blvd Apt 6C
Honolulu

Kukui P Plumbing

PO Box 75512
Honolulu

Kwik-Fix Home Improvement & Repair

823 Koko Isle Circle
Honolulu

Little Big Plumbing LLC

PO Box 89541
Honolulu

Low Cost Drain Plumbing

6370 Hawaii Kai Dr.
Honolulu

Mark Burton

49-769 kam hwy c
Kaaawa

Matt's HandyService

2255 Liliha St

Matt's Plumbing

2033 Ala Mahamoe St
Honolulu

Mel Furtado

46157 Humu St.
Kaneohe

MG Plumbing Solutions LLC

PO Box 10569
Honolulu

MOKULUA High Performance Builder

905 Kalanianaole Hwy
Kailua

Mr Fixit Handyman Services

3111 Pualei Cir
Honolulu

Mr. Rooter of Oahu

1616 Kahai St
Honolulu

multitrade handyman service

59-608 kamehameha hwy.
Haleiwa

Muscles 4 Hire

950 Lehua Ave
Pearl City

Nu Flow South Pacific

87-282 Holopono st.
Waianae

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

Offshore Plumbing

67-242 Kanalu St
Waialua

Pacific Pro Site LLC

Po Box 25413
Honolulu

Pacific Style Construction

74 Makaweo Ave
Wahiawa

Paragon Handymen

44-181 Laha St.
Kaneohe

Permits Hawaii, LLC

P.O. Box 15973
Honolulu

Plumbing Pete

98-351 Koauka Loop
Aiea

Point Plumbing Inc

PO Box 1185
Haleiwa

Poncho's Solar Service

1333 Opua St
Honolulu

Professional Yacht And Marine Services

1620 Ala Makani Pl
Honolulu

R & R Plumbing Hawaii

PO Box 2096
Ewa Beach

RayCo Plumbing

94-547 Ukee Street, Suite 310
Waipahu

Re-Bath of Hawaii

1130 N Nimitz Hwy A-123B
Honolulu

RG Builders Hawaii

Heina Lane
Honolulu

Robert's Plumbing

1723 Ala Aolani St
Honolulu

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1631 Democrat St
Honolulu

Solid Builders

48-279 Waiahole Valley Rd.
Kaneohe

Symmetry Tile

421 Keolu Dr
Kailua

T and C Plumbing LLC

2472 Komo Mai Dr.

TJR Works

94-1007 Lalama Loop
Mililani

TK Construction

PO Box 75378
Kapolei

Total Landscape Management, LLC

PO BOX 240902
Honolulu

VALUE REMODELING LLC

94-1036 WAIPIO UKA ST
Waipahu

W.J. Hale Construction, Inc

P.O. Box 2084
Waianae

Waialae Plumbing

825 Halekauwila St
Honolulu

West Coast Construction

PO Box 487
Pearl City

yamaz plumbing

99-105 Ohekani Loop
Aiea

Zecka Home Improvement Inc

45-015 Waikalualoko Loop
Kaneohe

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