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A
"
answered my initial call promptly, was very responsive and friendly. He was punctual and efficient when coming to my house to provide a quote." Later when scheduling the work to be done, he was flexible. He called and was apologetic when he was called out of town for a family issue at the last minute and the men working for him who came to complete the work were professional and completed the work efficiently with little mess. I would definitely call him again.

-Sheela B.

A
"It all went very well.
quickly identified the circuit break even though a friend of mine (who had worked with electricity for many years)" could not.
was very friendly and took his time to explain some wiring techniques to help me with a project. When I reach to the point in my project where I'm ready to connect, I definitely will pay
to inspect my work and make the final connections.

-James K.

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Local Articles in Kailua

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall
Electrical

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)
Electrical

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Kailua

A

Rating
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, friendly and timely. Arrived on time, installed devices quickly and efficiently. Cleaned up afterwards. Very friendly! Final price as quoted. Will definately use again for all my electrical work!!!
- Joseph W.
A

Rating
They did a great job, were very punctual and got the job done pretty quickly, even though they were operating on an agreed hourly rate. For small jobs, they don't quote a fixed price, but perform on an hourly basis. We were happy that they agreed to do the job on short notice (about a week), even though it was pretty small. Would definitely use them again.
- Charles R.
A

Rating
I bought the deal on Friday, received communication on Tuesday and he was here on Wednesday.... I had an outside electric outlet on my deck which stopped working about a year ago. I do remember checking the GFCI's in the house and it not helping, but
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
thinks it was a tripped GFCI. In any case, my outlet was old and had individual covers for each outlet... one of which had broken apart. Now I have a new one which looks much nicer. I overpaid, but that is my fault for purchasing the deal for a new outlet when all I needed was to have it replaced.
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
's Law would have it that if I hadn't done it this way then something would have gone wrong and I would have needed an entire new one installed there anyway. :)
- DONNA S.
A

Rating
Probably the most professional service I have ever received on my home. We have had electrical issues for years and even though several of the repairs were
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
in nature, they pointed out some very big issues and repaired the original shoddy construction. Their price was very fair given the amount of work and time they put in. Gave detailed explanations and
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
on every repair. This is the only electrician I will ever call again in the future!! Thank you
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
!!
- Nicole R.
A

Rating
The install of my new panel and all additional work went very smoothly. I was very happy with the knowledge and professionalism of the electrician(s) and crew members. They were punctual and offered suggestions on additional work I will want to have done in the future. I would recommend this company to anyone needing electrical work and I will definitely be using them again.
- Kathie W.
A

Rating
They did an excellent job. The only fault I could find was they didn't plan well on keeping the insulation from coming out of the attic while they made holes for the cans. Big mess.

- Jack P.
A

Rating
Thanks to all that have written reviews on
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
. You are the reason I chose this company. I highly recommend
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
. and will definitely call them in the future for my electrical needs.
Last evening I realized my A/C had stopped working and temp was rising in the house. I have a 93 year old Mom who is very ill and bed ridden. The breaker had tripped and when I reset, it made a terrible noise and immediately tripped again. I assumed it was the breaker as this is an older home. I logged on to Angie's List and looked for an electrician I felt I could trust and I sent an email. I called around 7:30 am this morning and left an voice mail explaining the critical situation with my Mom.
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
returned my call at 8:03 and made arrangements to send an electrician,
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
, to our home mid morning. She was very sensitive and responsive to the situation with my Mom. This company knows and believes in customer service.
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
called 30 mins ahead as she said he would, was on time, and very professional. He worked quickly and determined that in fact I did NOT need new breakers, but let me know he believed it was my A/C Compressor. He could have changed out the breaker and charged me. However, he said the breakers looked good and I called the A/C company.
As I said - I highly recommend. They are honest, professional, and completely customer focused.
Thank you
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
for the great work.
- Brenda M.
D

Rating
Two workman showed up. One was an apparent electrician the other apparently his helper. I told them what I wanted done; e.g., the installation of a light fixture in the kitchen or the installation of two electrical outlets or a hall light connected to an already existing adjacent light switch. The kitchen light work appeared to be too complicated and they did not have the parts on their truck to install the electric switches. They left and returned on a later date. I had the two men take down and install a new ceiling fan in
Kailua Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the other work. The ceiling fan works fine. It took about 45 minutes to install. I hired a different contractor who got the work done in a professional manner.
- Rod C.

Electricians in Kailua, HI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7-11 ELECTRIC

866 ONEAWA ST
Kailua

A & E ELECTRIC

94-503 Lumiauau St.
Waipahu

A-1A-LECTRICIAN INC

73-5581 LAWEHANA ST
Kailua Kona

A-Z Electrical Maintenance

1060 Kamehameha Hwy.
Pearl City

AC Electric LLC

PO Box 11022
Honolulu

ACE MACHINERY SVC INC

434 ILIMANO ST
Kailua

Acro Energy

4213 Technology Dr

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All G Electric

45-626 Hinamoe Loop
Kaneohe

All Trade Services

1011 Prospect St
Honolulu

Aloha Electric

98-1409 Kaonohi St
Aiea

Aloha Light and Design, Inc.

74-5599 Luhia Str Ste F10
Kailua Kona

Alternative Electric

1409 Kawelu St
Pearl City

AMERICAN ELECTRIC CO LTD

PO Box 893550
Mililani

American LED and Energy Corp.

521 Ala Moana, Pier 2, Ste. 260
Honolulu

Amian Electric LLC

1953 Ahuahu Place
Honolulu

ARS ELECTRIC

P.O. Box 2053
Kailua Kona

B & B AUTO SVC CTR IN WAIPIO

94-478 UKEE ST
Waipahu

B AND B AUTO REPAIR LLC

1336-F DILLINGHAM BLVD.
Honolulu

BE IN HAWAII ELECTRICAL

45-596 Keaahala Rd
Kaneohe

Bills Handyman Services

91-1040B Hoomaka Street
Ewa Beach

BOS ELECTRIC

73-4474 KOHANAIKI RD
Kailua Kona

BOWMAN ELECTRIC SHOP LTD

131 HEKILI ST
Kailua

BRILLIANT IDEAS INC

1451 Akupa St
Kailua

BUCK ELECTRIC

78-6759 KUAKINI HWY
Kailua Kona

CHOICE PACIFIC SERVICES

95-348 MAKULU PL
Mililani

CREATIVE CONDUCTIVITY

1280 LOHO ST
Kailua

Creative Energy Inc.

1280 Loho Street
Kailua

Creative Energy Inc.

1280 Loho Street
Kailua

D DAVIS ELECTRIC INC

74-1542 HAO KUNI ST
Kailua Kona

Direct Electric Hawaii

1034 Kilani Ave
Wahiawa

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

E & E ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 2538
Kailua Kona

Eagle Eye Electric INC

317 Keaniani St Apt D
Kailua

Eco Solar

94-1388 Moaniani St Ste 229
Waipahu

Electrical Development LLC

85-576 Waianae Valley Rd.
Waianae

ELECTRICAL SOLUTIONS CO

PO Box 1013
Kihei

EMERY ELECTRIC

47-366 MAWAENA ST
Kaneohe

Executive Construction

2634 Ipulei Pl
Honolulu

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

G-Y ELECTRIC INC

73-1217 KUAKAPU ST
Kailua Kona

Gerald's Electric Service

47-324 Waihee Road
Kaneohe

Green Solar

1236 Kaumualii
Honolulu

Greenflash Electric

PO box 72
Haleiwa

H Drywall LLC

1 Keahole Pl
Honolulu

Handy Man From Heaven

6915 Golden Ring Road

Handyman at Your Service

P.O. Box 25474
Honolulu

HandyWorks

94-1054 Heahea St
Waipahu

Hawaiian Electric Light Co

1200 Kilauea Ave
Hilo

Hawaiian Isle Electric LLC

PO Box 4381
Kaneohe

HOME CONVENIENCE CTR

74-5467 KAIWI ST
Kailua Kona

Homeworks Construction Inc

2111 S Beratania St
Honolulu

Honey Do Handyman

520 Kaimake Lp
Kailua

HOWARD'S WIRING SVC

279 KIHAPAI ST
Kailua

HPM BUILDING SUPPLY

74-5511 LUHIA ST
Kailua Kona

INTER-ISLAND CONSTRUCTION

99-910 IWAENA ST
Aiea

ISLAND HOME REPAIR

PO Box 372284
Honolulu

K Schenk Electric LLC

PO Box 6350
Kaneohe

Kamiyama Electric Inc

67-361 Waialua Beach Rd
Waialua

KAWAKAMI ELECTRIC INC

45-472 NAKULUAI ST
Kaneohe

Kings HandyMan Services LLC

2015 Ala Wai Blvd Apt 6C
Honolulu

Kwik-Fix Home Improvement & Repair

823 Koko Isle Circle
Honolulu

Lanikai Electric

280 Aikane Pl
Kailua

Leaf Racing Auto Performance

206 Mokauea St
Honolulu

LIGHTHOUSE ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 367
Kailua

M B ELECTRIC INC

425 MALUNIU AVE
Kailua

MARINE ELECTRICAL

74-577 HONOKOHAU ST
Kailua Kona

MARINE ELECTRICAL DESIGN

1082 LUNAANELA ST
Kailua

MARTIN PACIFIC

76-6357 KOLOLIA ST
Kailua Kona

Matt's HandyService

2255 Liliha St

Mel Furtado

46157 Humu St.
Kaneohe

MOKULUA High Performance Builder

905 Kalanianaole Hwy
Kailua

Mr Fixit Handyman Services

3111 Pualei Cir
Honolulu

multitrade handyman service

59-608 kamehameha hwy.
Haleiwa

Muscles 4 Hire

950 Lehua Ave
Pearl City

P A HARRIS ELECTRIC LLC

73-5617 Maiau St
Kailua-Kona

P A Harris Electrical LLC

73-5617 Maiau St
Kailua Kona

Pacific Power & Light, LLC

PO BOX 1261
Kailua

Pacific Pro Site LLC

Po Box 25413
Honolulu

Pacific Style Construction

74 Makaweo Ave
Wahiawa

Paragon Handymen

44-181 Laha St.
Kaneohe

Patios By B&B Inc

7545 Irvine Ctr Dr.

PAUL'S CABLING

350 WARD AVE
Honolulu

Permits Hawaii, LLC

P.O. Box 15973
Honolulu

POSITIVE ELECTRIC

1485 KUPAU ST
Kailua

Power Generation Industries

98-1038 Moanalua Rd
Aiea

POWERS ELECTRICAL SVC INC SHOP

73-4310 ONEONE ST
Kailua Kona

Professional Yacht And Marine Services

1620 Ala Makani Pl
Honolulu

QN ELECTRIC INC

263 KAKAHIAKA ST
Kailua

QUALITY MECHANICAL DESIGN

438 ILIMANO ST
Kailua

R E I, LLC

4348 Waialae Ave
Honolulu

Repairs & Remodels On Demand

591 Telegraph Canyon Rd

RevoluSun

210 Ward Avenue
Honolulu

ROTH'S HANDYMAN SERVICE

1 Woodbridge Drive

SEI ELECTRIC

1618 ALA LANI ST
Honolulu

SHOCKWAVE ELECTRIC

1035 Maunawili Rd
Kailua

SIM ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR

131 HEKILI ST
Kailua

SIMTEC ELECTRIC

573 IANA ST
Kailua

SITCH ELECTRIC INC

17 MALUNIU AVE
Kailua

Solar Services Hawaii

98-121 Kihale Pl
Aiea

Sparky's Electric Company

4348 Waialae Avenue #500
Honolulu

Strictly Solar

92-023 Hekaha st
Aiea

Sunetric

905 Kapaa Quarry Pl
Kailua

Sunny Construction

94-1022 Kaloli Loop
Waipahu

TELECABLE SYSTEMS INC

73-5574 MAIAU ST
Kailua Kona

TJR Works

94-1007 Lalama Loop
Mililani

TK Construction

PO Box 75378
Kapolei

True North Designs

12430 Mitchell Ave

VALUE REMODELING LLC

94-1036 WAIPIO UKA ST
Waipahu

VP Electric LLC

73-5563 Olowalu Street
Kailua Kona

W.J. Hale Construction, Inc

P.O. Box 2084
Waianae

Waialae Plumbing

825 Halekauwila St
Honolulu

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WASA ELECTRICAL SVC INC

73-4118 HULIKOA DR
Kailua Kona

Weatherwax Electric

POB 2108
Kailua

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

West Coast Construction

PO Box 487
Pearl City

WEST HAWAII ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 1660
Kailua Kona

WESTSIDE ELECTRIC LLC

73-1217 KAHI LOOP
Kailua Kona

Windward Auto Body Collision

45-620 Kamehameha Hwy
Kaneohe

WOO'S ELECTRICAL SVC

350 AWINI WAY
Honolulu

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

ZAK'S ELECTRIC INC

1289 KIKA ST
Kailua

Zecka Home Improvement Inc

45-015 Waikalualoko Loop
Kaneohe

Zepeda Electric

P O Box 333
Kailua Kona

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