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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Honolulu

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

Burnt outlet

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

two gray electric panels side by side (Photo by Eldon Lindsay)

Ever wonder why your arc-fault breaker trips randomly? An electrician explains how arc-fault circuit interrupters work and what causes AFCI nuisance tripping.

Plumbing pipes

Some projects require a licensed contractor to ensure they are completed safely and properly.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

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Think you can bypass the permit process when it's time to remodel?

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Honolulu

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Honolulu, HI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7/11 Electric Company

866 B Oneawa St.
Kailua

A & E ELECTRIC

94-503 Lumiauau St.
Waipahu

A 1 ELECTRICIAN

1450 ALA MOANA BLVD
Honolulu

A A ELECTRIC LTD-SALES & SVC

500 ALAKAWA ST
Honolulu

A-1A-LECTRICIAN INC

2849 KAIHIKAPU ST
Honolulu

A-Z Electrical Maintenance

1060 Kamehameha Hwy.
Pearl City

A1A ELECTRICIANS

870 KAPAHULU AVE
Honolulu

ABC Remodeling

98-1038 Moanalua rd

AC Electric LLC

PO Box 11022
Honolulu

ACTION APPLIANCE REPAIR

511 KIAPU PL
Honolulu

AFFORDABLE ELECTRIC

1720 KILOHI ST
Honolulu

AGENCIES CO MFR REPRESENTATIVE

7425 MOKUHANO PL
Honolulu

AIR REPS HAWAII

1734 KANAKANUI ST
Honolulu

AKEMOTO ELECTRIC SVC INC

646 WAIKANALOA ST
Honolulu

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All G Electric

45-626 Hinamoe Loop
Kaneohe

All Trade Services

1011 Prospect St
Honolulu

Aloha Electric

98-1409 Kaonohi St
Aiea

Alternative Electric

1409 Kawelu St
Pearl City

AM-PM ELECTRICAL SVC & MNTNC

1314 MAHI ST
Honolulu

American LED and Energy Corp.

521 Ala Moana, Pier 2, Ste. 260
Honolulu

Amian Electric LLC

1953 Ahuahu Place
Honolulu

AMPCO ELECTRICAL SVC INC

1815 HAU ST
Honolulu

Anything Guy Production Services

1108 Fort St Mall
Honolulu

ARAKAKI ELECTRIC

264 MOKAUEA ST
Honolulu

AUDIO LAB

851 Pohukaina St Ste C12
Honolulu

Aurosound

1750 Kalakaua ave

B & B AUTO SVC CTR IN WAIPIO

94-478 UKEE ST
Waipahu

B AND B AUTO REPAIR LLC

1336-F DILLINGHAM BLVD.
Honolulu

BE IN HAWAII ELECTRICAL

45-596 Keaahala Rd
Kaneohe

Bills Handyman Services

91-1040B Hoomaka Street
Ewa Beach

BLAZEMASTERS FIRE PROTECTION

3375 KOAPAKA ST
Honolulu

Blue Sky Electric

6641 Alahele Street
Honolulu

Boweaks Electrical Solutions LLC

320 Liliuokalani Avenue
Honolulu

C & C ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR

1321 MOONUI ST
Honolulu

CHANNEL ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 61772
Honolulu

CHOICE PACIFIC SERVICES

95-348 MAKULU PL
Mililani

CIRCUIT BUILDERS

555 PAIEA ST
Honolulu

CITY LIFE ELECTRIC

1316 MOOKAULA ST
Honolulu

CITY-WIDE TELECOMMUNICATIONS

80 SAND ISLAND ACCESS RD 232
Honolulu

CLEMCO PACIFIC

549 KOKEA ST
Honolulu

CLOSE ELECTRIC INC

759 PUULOA RD
Honolulu

COMPASS ADJUSTER

1320 KALANI ST
Honolulu

CONTROL CONCEPTS LLC

5336 MALU PL
Honolulu

CONTROL TECH

5 SAND ISLAND ACCESS RD
Honolulu

CREATIVE CONDUCTIVITY

1280 LOHO ST
Kailua

Creative Energy Inc.

1280 Loho Street
Kailua

Creative Energy Inc.

1280 Loho Street
Kailua

CRITCH FIELD PACIFIC INC

1814 KANAKANUI ST
Honolulu

D SUEHIRO ELECTRIC

831 POHUKAINA ST
Honolulu

DIAMOND ELECTRIC CO

1108 19TH AVE
Honolulu

DIAMOND HEAD ELECTRIC

45-995 WAILELE RD
Kaneohe

Direct Electric Hawaii

1034 Kilani Ave
Wahiawa

DIVISION 16 INC

1088 Sand Island Pkwy
Honolulu

DORVIN D LEIS CO

1189 WAIMANU ST
Honolulu

E I Electrical

6800 Kalanianaole Hwy #129
Honolulu

Eagle Eye Electric INC

317 Keaniani St Apt D
Kailua

EATON CUTLER-HAMMER

711 Kapiolani Blvd Ste 1480
Honolulu

Eco Solar

94-1388 Moaniani St Ste 229
Waipahu

EGA ELECTRICAL SVC

68-032 AU ST
Waialua

Electrical Development LLC

85-576 Waianae Valley Rd.
Waianae

ELECTRICAL INSIGHTS SPEC

1311 WARD AVE LU
Honolulu

ELECTRICAL SOLUTIONS CO

PO Box 1013
Kihei

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS INC

2122 WAIKOAE RD
Honolulu

ELECTRICIANS INC

2688 Waiwai Loop
Honolulu

EMERY ELECTRIC

47-366 MAWAENA ST
Kaneohe

ENERGY INDUSTRIES

2656 Waiwai Loop
Honolulu

EXCEL ELECTRICAL SUPPLY

2958 UALENA ST
Honolulu

Executive Construction

2634 Ipulei Pl
Honolulu

FAIRWAY ELECTRIC

2074 YOUNG ST
Honolulu

FAMILY HEARING AIDS CTR

1441 KAPIOLANI BLVD
Honolulu

FORCE ELECTRIC INC

1139 ALA ALOALO ST
Honolulu

FOXBILT ELECTRIC INC

238 Sand Island Access Rd Ste R15
Honolulu

GEORGE WOO

910 AHANA ST
Honolulu

Gerald's Electric Service

47-324 Waihee Road
Kaneohe

Green Solar

1236 Kaumualii
Honolulu

Greenflash Electric

PO box 72
Haleiwa

H Drywall LLC

1 Keahole Pl
Honolulu

H H ELECTRIC INC

1320 KALANI ST
Honolulu

HALEIWA ELECTRICAL WIRING-SUPL

PO BOX 25573
Honolulu

HAN'S ELECTRIC SVC

5 SAND ISLAND ACCESS RD
Honolulu

HAN'S ELECTRIC SVC

1511 ARTESIAN WAY
Honolulu

Handyman at Your Service

P.O. Box 25474
Honolulu

HandyWorks

94-1054 Heahea St
Waipahu

HAWAII HEARING AIDS LTD

1450 ALA MOANA BLVD
Honolulu

Hawaiian Isle Electric LLC

PO Box 4381
Kaneohe

HERBIAS ELECTRICAL & ELECRNCS

1320 KALANI ST
Honolulu

HIROSE ELECTRIC

5 SAND ISLAND ACCESS RD
Honolulu

HO'OMANA ELECTRIC CO LLC

1521 Alexander St Apt 401
Honolulu

Homeworks Construction Inc

2111 S Beratania St
Honolulu

Honey Do Handyman

520 Kaimake Lp
Kailua

HSI ELECTRIC INC

2308 PAHOUNUI DR
Honolulu

INTER-ISLAND CONSTRUCTION

99-910 IWAENA ST
Aiea

IPAC ELECTRIC CO

335 Awini Way
Honolulu

ISLAND CONTROLS

4355 LAWEHANA ST
Honolulu

ISLAND HOME REPAIR

PO Box 372284
Honolulu

J A ELECTRIC SVC INC

2621 WAIWAI LOOP
Honolulu

JBE ELECTRICAL SVC

2657 ANUU PL
Honolulu

K H ELECTRIC INC

2960 MOKUMOA ST
Honolulu

K M ELECTRICAL SVC

1080 KALIKIMAKA ST
Honolulu

K Schenk Electric LLC

PO Box 6350
Kaneohe

K. Ahsing Tile & Stone LLC.

99-231 Ohekani Lp.
Aiea

KENNEDY THEATRE BOX OFFICE

1770 EAST WEST RD
Honolulu

KENNETH'S MOTOR REWINDING

500 ALAKAWA ST
Honolulu

KEVIN'S ELECTRIC INC

914 INDUSTRIAL RD
Honolulu

Kings HandyMan Services LLC

2015 Ala Wai Blvd Apt 6C
Honolulu

KL Electric

4003 Pahoa Ave
Honolulu

KNA Construction & Painting

PO Box 75378
Kapolei

KONA ELECTRIC

400 HOBRON LN
Honolulu

Kupono's Handymen

7536 Puu Mahoe
Honolulu

Kwik-Fix Home Improvement & Repair

823 Koko Isle Circle
Honolulu

KYK ELECTRICAL

819 Moowaa St Ste 110
Honolulu

Leaf Racing Auto Performance

206 Mokauea St
Honolulu

LEE'S GENERAL CONTRACTING

614 COOKE ST
Honolulu

LEWIS ELECTRIC LLC

600 Queen St Apt 4301
Honolulu

LIGHTING SERVICES INC

3219 UALENA ST
Honolulu

LIGHTMAN

2621 WAIWAI LOOP
Honolulu

LYMAN ELECTRIC INC

518 PAHILI RD
Honolulu

M & I ELECTRIC CO

1733 SILVA ST
Honolulu

M & M ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 37817
Honolulu

M & R ELECTRICAL SVC

335 HOOKELA PL
Honolulu

M H ELECTRIC CO

2688 KILIHAU ST
Honolulu

M SAKUMA ELECTRIC INC

830 Mapunapuna St Ste 7
Honolulu

MAEDA ELECTRICAL SVC INC

1038 ALEWA DR
Honolulu

MAGUIRE BEARING CO LTD

1919 HAU ST
Honolulu

Maika'i Construction LLC

1005 Sing Loy Ln
Honolulu

MARINE ELECTRICAL REPAIR

123 AHUI ST
Honolulu

Marine Electrical Services

839 9th Ave
Honolulu

Matt's HandyService

2255 Liliha St

Mel Furtado

46157 Humu St.
Kaneohe

Modern Electric, Inc.

542 Ilimano St.
Kailua

MOKULUA High Performance Builder

905 Kalanianaole Hwy
Kailua

MOON'S SALES & SVC

2550 KUHIO AVE
Honolulu

Mr Fixit Handyman Services

3111 Pualei Cir
Honolulu

multitrade handyman service

59-608 kamehameha hwy.
Haleiwa

Muscles 4 Hire

950 Lehua Ave
Pearl City

NAKA'S ELECTRICAL SVC

7524 HUIALOHA ST
Honolulu

NAKAI ELECTRICAL SVC INC

1545 MOKUNA PL
Honolulu

NAKAMURA ELECTRIC

2298 Alahao Pl
Honolulu

NAKATA ELECTRICAL INC

2341 HOALU PL
Honolulu

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Niutupuivaha Electric

56-298 Leleuli
Kahuku

OAHU ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

1020 AUAHI ST
Honolulu

OHANA KIRBY

1337 Moanalualani Way Apt H
Honolulu

OHANA TELCOM CONSTRUCTION INC

2815 KAIHIKAPU ST
Honolulu

OneRoof Energy - Hawaii

1132 Bishop St
Honolulu

PACIFIC CENTRAL ELECTRIC

5403 OPIHI ST
Honolulu

PACIFIC FACTORS INC

2829 AWAAWALOA ST
Honolulu

PACIFIC LIQUID & AIR SYSTEMS

761 AHUA ST
Honolulu

Pacific Pro Site LLC

Po Box 25413
Honolulu

Pacific Style Construction

74 Makaweo Ave
Wahiawa

PAUL'S CABLING

350 WARD AVE
Honolulu

Permits Hawaii, LLC

P.O. Box 15973
Honolulu

PRECISION MECHANICAL

1814 KANAKANUI ST
Honolulu

Professional Yacht And Marine Services

1620 Ala Makani Pl
Honolulu

QUALITY ELECTRICAL SVC

1135 N SCHOOL ST
Honolulu

R B ELECTRIC

1621 Leilani St
Honolulu

R E I, LLC

4348 Waialae Ave
Honolulu

RELIANCE ELECTRICAL SVC

1315 GULICK AVE
Honolulu

RevoluSun Smart Home

210 Ward Ave
Honolulu

REY'S ELECTRICAL SVC

3648 LIKINI ST
Honolulu

RMH ELECTRIC CO

727 BANNISTER ST
Honolulu

ROGER'S ELECTRICAL SVC & MNTNC

4443 LOINA PL
Honolulu

ROLAND SAKUMA ELECTRIC INC

909 HOKULANI ST
Honolulu

S K ELECTRIC INC

3523 Ala Haukulu Pl
Honolulu

SCHOCK ELECTRIC

505 KAMANI ST
Honolulu

SEI ELECTRIC

1618 ALA LANI ST
Honolulu

SIU'S ELECTRIC CORP

500 ALAKAWA ST
Honolulu

SORENSEN ENTERPRISES INC

1618 ALA LANI ST
Honolulu

Sparky's Electric Company

4348 Waialae Avenue #500
Honolulu

SPECIALTY PRODUCTS INC

627 SOUTH ST
Honolulu

STAR ELECTRIC CO LTD

22 CRAIGSIDE PL
Honolulu

Strictly Solar

92-023 Hekaha st
Aiea

Sunetric

905 Kapaa Quarry Pl
Kailua

Sunny Construction

94-1022 Kaloli Loop
Waipahu

TAKEMOTO ELECTRIC INC

1623 DEMOCRAT ST
Honolulu

TAXI METERS HAWAII

916 KAAMAHU PL
Honolulu

TDHandyman

Kailua

TED'S WIRING SVC LTD

500 ALAKAWA ST
Honolulu

THEATRIX HAWAII

1038 Kikowaena Pl
Honolulu

TJR Works

94-1007 Lalama Loop
Mililani

Tommy McKinley

47-186 Kamehameha Hwy
Kaneohe

Trinergy Group

1314 S King Steet
Honolulu

VALUE REMODELING LLC

94-1036 WAIPIO UKA ST
Waipahu

W.J. Hale Construction, Inc

P.O. Box 2084
Waianae

Waialae Plumbing

825 Halekauwila St
Honolulu

Waikiki Handyman Service

430 LewersStreet
Honolulu

WASA ELECTRICAL SVC INC

766 MAPUNAPUNA ST
Honolulu

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

1030 MAPUNAPUNA ST
Honolulu

West Coast Construction

PO Box 487
Pearl City

WEST PACIFIC POWER PRODS INC

560 N NIMITZ HWY 201B
Honolulu

WIRED-RIGHT INC

740 GULICK AVE
Honolulu

WOO'S ELECTRICAL SVC

350 AWINI WAY
Honolulu

ZAB INTL

1070 ALAKEA ST
Honolulu

ZACH WIRING SYSTEMS INC

1550 HALOA DR
Honolulu

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