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A
"When the floor drain in our basement backed up we were left unable to use the dishwasher upstairs or the washing machine downstairs. I called a bunch of places on" angie's and found one that would come out the next day ... but they would not quote me a price on the phone. Not even a ballpark figure. They told me that they did not charge by the hour but by the job and would make an assessment and quote me a price after they had looked at our drain. This did not sit well with me and sure enough when I took a closer look at their reviews I saw several people who felt they'd been badly overcharged but agreed to pay because they'd taken time off from work to meet with the company or just wanted to be done with it or whatever. I canceled that particular appointment and ended up talking to
, or "
" as his company is known. I told him my situation and he quoted me a price over the phone and agreed to squeeze me into an already packed schedule. I liked the idea that he seemed more like a one-man operation and I didn't have to go through a receptionist or any kind of corporate mumbo
. Anyway,
came out, snaked my drain, charged me what he'd said he'd charge me, and that was that. Good to go. Would definitely go with him again..

-cynthia B.

D
".The drain cleaner,
, called me and we scheduled the drain cleaning for the next morning. He arrived on time, but when I asked him about" the drain cover, he said that Bill did not tell him about the need for a drain cover.
also said that he could not just bring a drain cover. He would need to take measurements first and then obtain the proper sized cover. I told him that Bill had only asked me if the drain was round or square. We agreed that he would clear the drain, for which I would pay the $109, and return to install the drain cover and contact me for the agreed upon $26 payment. I even called Bill after
had left to let him know that I still needed a drain cover and what
had said he would do. Bill said the job would be completed and I would be contacted. Well, after 5 calls made by me over the course of 6 days explaining my situation to either Bill,
or
, all of whom assured me the drain cover would be installed, I was finally told by Bill that the cost for the drain cover would not be $26, but $140! When I asked why the huge price change, I was told that since he had to send someone out again, that would be the cost. I said, NO THANKS!

-Paul D.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Saint Marys

C

Rating
pipe did not need to be snaked as recommended; I saw only scant amt removed. owner felt talked into having this done (was $125). work done but had to return same day as leaking continued. shortly after that an additional 3 separate house calls had to be done over the course of 3 to 5 wks due to same problem. the young guys that came to fix it were professional and nice but had accidently snagged my
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
kitchen rug on his boot buckle; had to be replaced w/ another one. I showed him what happened as he sat w/ his boots facing downwards while working under the sink. previous workers sat cross-legged so it was not a problem. although it was an accident, the guy acknowledged it and apologized. I didn't make a big fuss at the time b/c I thought I would take it up w/ the owner.
I took photos of the rug damage, bought an exact replacement for $32 and sent--via my cell phone--a copy of the receipt and photos of the rug. In the end, the woman who answers the phone would never let me speak to the owner and she continued to play text tag. I never received a check which I requested. No, I would not ever use them again because they failed to take responsibility for damage. Although the money I requested was small, it's the principal of the situation and hence, they fail to be a credible company based on my own experience.
- Marsha G.
A

Rating
They ran about an hour late but that wasn't a big deal. I took the whole day off anyway. The crew was courteous, friendly, and replaced a pipe that they thought was questionable that I was not aware of. They also did a great job of cleaning up. I don't know if the price was fair or not because I don't have anything to compare it to. That is the only reason I gave it a B. Anyway you look at it $465 is a lot of money! I just called them again today to get my basement drain cleaned out. Definitely recommend.
- Ryan S.
A

Rating
Had to snake drain and clear pipe. Turns out we had to change a pipe and going to the wall to clear the drain. Work was done quickly, neatly, and professionally.
- Hal M.
A

Rating
We had
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
come out to do some plumbing work, both underneath the house and repairing two toilets, about 3-4 months ago. Today, one of our rubber flapper toilet chains came off the flapper itself and could not be put back on. I called
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and she came over less than 1.5 hours after I called in! Awesome! She is a class act all-the-way, and great to deal with! Best of all the repair was free! Thank you,
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
!
- William S.
A

Rating
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was very responsive and a great guy. Did this job the same day I called him and kept me updated as to when he would be here. Did a great job replacing the drain pipe which was probably original to this 1960s house! He will be our go-to plumbing servicer!
- Stephanie H.
A

Rating
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was prompt and well-prepared for the task. He took the time to discuss the problem with us and informed us as to what he planned to do. He was courteous, professional, and careful as he worked.
- Karen Y.
A

Rating
I called and left a message. My call was returned quickly. I said that my basement had flooded, and my sump pump had stopped working. I was trying to see if something was clogging it, so I poked a mop handle into the well and disconnected the float. The pump would work if I manually turned it off and on. I didn't leave it on without being there. When I talked to
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, he said that he was at a job but would call on his way here. He did. When he arrived, he looked at my water heater first. It's less than 2 years old, and the wire from the electronic sparker was disconnected. He fixed that and got it lit. (Thank you for a hot shower!)
He checked the sump pump. He said he could reattach the float, but the pump itself was only working part of the time. He explained how it worked and where all this water was coming from. He gave me a replacement cost and could do it right then. I said yes.
I have lived here less than 2 years so I have no idea how old that pump was, and this is the first house I've ever lived in with a sump pump. I had him do the job. He had one with him. (With all the flooding the past month, I'm sure I wasn't his first call.) He did it quickly, and I had to chuckle when he asked if I had a broom to sweep up the "crumbs" on the floor where he had sawed the connector pipe. (The basement is still full of flood-soaked things and is a mess.)
He was very professional, fast, answered all my questions, explained things I didn't know, and when he left I felt like I not only had hot water and a potentially dry basement, but a lot more knowledge about my house.
- Teresa G.
A

Rating
Plumbing technician,
Saint Marys Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived within 15 minutes. He was very courteous, neatly dressed and very knowledgeable! he checked out the disposal, figured out the problem and got it to work again! Thank goodness we didn't need a new disposal! Very Happy !
- Sylvia H.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Saint Marys, GA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Air Dynamics Mechanical

16 Sandhill Shady Grove Rd
Carrollton

All About Septic & Plumbing LLC

5748 Kent Rock Rd
Loganville

All Choice Plumbing LLC

P.O Box 125
Mc Caysville

Arlis Home Services

30 Ridge Crest Dr
Blairsville

ASAP Plumbing

PO Box 48070

Clay Service Company

83 Pleasant Valley Road
Silver Creek

Crumbley Plumbing

235 Suttle Mill Lane
Summerville

Cumberland Plumbing, Inc

PO Box 2880
Kingsland

D & J's Tool's of Trade

283 Bert Rd nw
Rome

D.J.'s Complete Paintinh & Remodeling

1066 HWY192 South
Twin City

Davis Dryer/ Vent Cleaning LLC

4601 Heidi Drive
Waycross

Dekle Plumbing

5711 Laurel Island Pkwy
Kingsland

Dirting Renovations

229 St Thomas Ave

Do It Right General Contractors

11163 Hwy 53 East
Marble Hill

Dotson Plumbing Co

3800 Whitlock St
Brunswick

EGS Plumbing and Contracting, Inc.

9208 WALDEN BROOK DR
Lithonia

Heavenly Heir

201 Brighton Circle
Brunswick

High Priority Plumbing & Services Inc

1422 Business Center Drive SW
Conyers

Holmes Plumbing

1083 Cate Rd
Brunswick

HUNTER HOME IMPROVEMENTS

475 COMMUNITY CIR
Jesup

John Nugent & Sons Inc

1387 Chain Bridge Rd

Ken's Construction

1 Coltsfoot Ct

kevin's plumbing service

55 five oaks drive

KLP Plumbing Solutions LLC

PO Box 253
Porterdale

Mels Remodeling LLC

4025 Young Ave Unit C
Columbus

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir

Mountain Man Remodeling

185 Mountain Laurel Ridge
Dahlonega

Plumb-It Inc

1114 W Galena Blvd

Plumbing Central Inc

215 Six Hills Lane
Alpharetta

Prestige Remodeling

P.O. box 82279
Atlanta

Pruitt & Pruitt Gas Services

174 Stacie Ln
Dawsonville

R & B Services

1923 Sanctuary Wynd
Waverly

Rooter Express Plumbing & Drain

4741 New Jesup Hwy
Brunswick

Savino Plumbing

447 Sylvan Blvd
St. Simon Island

Superior Septic Tank Service

62 Pelican Cir
Woodbine

Tony Walls Construction Co. Inc.

3436 HWY 27 S
Carrollton

Top to Bottom Renovations

105 Tortoise Crt
Brunswick

Transformation Remodeling

55 Summer Lane
Covington

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Saint Marys Zip Codes

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