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F
"Mr.
came to come up with an estimate. I called twice after waiting several weeks.
told me he'd call tomorrow" two different times. I waited from 10/29/2014 until 01/23/2015 and still haven't received the calls nor the estimate Mr.
promised he'd send me by email.me to provide free estimate. What went wrong or why I don't know. No explanation was given. I was very courteous throughout. I do feel disrespected and Mr.
has disrespected himself and his business.

-Richard P.

A
"Technicians were on time. They were very professional and efficient. They kept us abreast of the entire process and costs at all times. There were no surprises." Technicians were very respectful of our property and took the necessary steps to protect floors and countertops and walls.

-Cosmo T.

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Local Articles in Garden City

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)
Electrical

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Garden City

A

Rating
My house is a 1950's 1200 square foot standard. We moved in over 5 years ago and part of the pre move in upgrade was installation of a new 200 amp electrical panel. One item I passed over due to money shortage was lights and adequate power in my garage. My wife and I would stumble around trying to plug in a single bulb light each time we entered the garage. I finally had the money and contacted
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
for an estimate. He provided an accurate total and gave me the option of purchasing the lights and electrical supplies to have on hand for the start of the job. After
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived and work began I noticed how professional his work was and I appreciated the fact he kept me informed of progress. One of the lights I purchased from Home Depot was missing a part.
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
spotted the issue was exchanged before more time was wasted. The lights, junction box and plugs installation went perfectly. Unfortunately for
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
pulling the romex through my attic was not easy due to obstructions like my HVAC and 18" of blown insulation throughout. Another obstacle was pulling the new romex wire from the attic down into the panel. Seems the previous electrician had installed 200 amp panel at my request but failed miserably to provide additional capacity for routing new wiring and etc.
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
to the challenge and rerouted another circuit and pulled all through without issue and completely to code. Explaining to me that further upgrades will require additional ducting to remain within code. I appreciated his professionalism because he provided a fair quote in advance and stood by the quote even when some challenges came up. He came down from the attic clean and never left insulation or debris within the house. He cleaned up and didn't leave any items behind. I checked my attic a few days later and noticed the thick
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
of blown insulation looked like no one had been working around and on it. Nice. Now I enjoy going to my garage and using the easy access light switch, new lights and additional power.
- MARK M.
A

Rating
I called
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
at 7:45pm on a Saturday night (just a few minutes ago) to schedule him to come replace what I thought was a faulty breaker.
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
proceeded to ask me how I knew it was faulty and needed to be replaced. When I told him what I thought, he suggested that I tried something, and it worked! No need for a service call after all.
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very polite on the phone, and I am so grateful that rather than just scheduling a time to come out to my house, he took the time to actually make sure his services were needed. I will be using him in the future when I have an actual problem.
- Sarah M.
A

Rating
I was very happy with the service
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
provided. He was very prompt at responding back to me on e-mail. He was able to give me an appointment quickly. He was very professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. He had the problem diagnosed quickly and was able to fix it the same day. I would definitely recommend
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
to others and will be using his services in the future.
- Sarah B.
A

Rating
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was responsive, prompt, and professional He was easy to get in touch with and he responded to all my requests right away. He showed up at my house at the promised time. He laid drop clothes so the floor would not be dirtied and when finished he vacuumed and cleaned the areas where he worked. I am very happy with the job that he did and I feel that his price was very fair. I would recommend him to anyone needing electrical work.
- Jeanette H.
A

Rating
They showed up on time. Were very professional and polite. Discussed things while checking them. Feel conferrable having them work on my home if I need any electrical work to be done.
- antoni K.
B

Rating
The electrician was very personable, went right to work and completed one of the items on the list. The second item not completed was due to the error of Home Depot and not his fault.
- Susan T.
A

Rating
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was awesome. Super easy to talk to, did a high quality job, and was an overall pleasure to work with. I will be hiring him again to do further work on our house for sure.
- Jeremy D.
B

Rating
The job was well done but Mr.
Garden City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was difficult to get in touch with and didn't return calls and e-mails for days or weeks. For that reason the project went on for far longer than it should have.
- SALLY B.

All Electricians in Garden City, GA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3 Guys Garage

4904 Augusta Rd
Savannah

A&V Electric Company, Inc

2750 Tremont Rd
Savannah

Ace Electric, Inc.

4387 Inner Perimeter Road
Valdosta

ACJ Electric

13011 Largo Dr
Savannah

Additional Touch Construction

492 Mill Run Rd
Richmond Hill

Advanced Heating & Air

113 Busch Ln
Rincon

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE
Atlanta

Allied Construction

1701 Abercorn st
Savannah

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Appliances Comfort Air Inc

4560 Atwater Ct
Buford

Bagwell Services

P.O. Box 86
Richmond Hill

BILL LEE ELECTRIC CO

2744 LOUISVILLE RD
Savannah

Bolt Electric Inc

207 Cotton Field Lane W

C S HURD ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING

480 Edsel Drive
Richmond Hill

Craftsman Connection LLC

12410 Largo Dr
Savannah

Delta Mechanical Inc

2486 Lawrenceville Hwy
Lawrenceville

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DiSalvo Construction, Inc

205 Coldbrook Ct
Rincon

Down South Construction and Termite dog inspection

7364 Hodgson Memorial Drive
Savannah

EBI Services Inc

PO Box 30488
Savannah

Elan Technology

169 Elan Ct
Midway

ELECTRICAL SOLUTIONS-SAVANNAH

33 DON ZIPPERER DR
Savannah

Electrical Specialist Corporation+

5320 Roswell Rd
Atlanta

ESE Air Conditioning

105 St Andrews Road
Rincon

Expert Contracting Inc

29 Flinn Dr
Savannah

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Five Star Electrical Contractors Inc

110 Central Junction Blvd
Savannah

GCS Contracting Services

214 Virginia Avenue
Savannah

Griffin Electric Co

218 Bourne Blvd
Savannah

Handyman Pros

2607 Norwood Ave
Savannah

Hinely Construction

217 Burton Rd.

Home Remedies

Gemini Lane
Midway

Home Services and Repairs

#8 Bear Island Road

Horton Remodeling

11913 Idleweood Dr
Savannah

Hubbard's Handyman

42 Coffee Pointe Dr.
Savannah

I Can Fix That!

5607 La Roche Ave
Savannah

Indico Construction

940 Moss Dr
Savannah

J M Wilson Electric Inc

5119 Augusta Rd
Savannah

Joyner Electric & Security

128 L Salt Creek Rd
Savannah

jsb handyman

115 Butler Rd
Richmond Hill

Lammons Construction Company, Inc.

P.O. Box 31039
Savannah

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln
Gainesville

Low Country Renovations

1120 Mount Hope Road
Guyton

Maddox Contractors Inc

1826 Hale St
Savannah

Michael Sapp Electric Inc

325 Buckhalter Rd
Savannah

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir

Mr Electric of The Coastal Empire

P.O. Box 30099
Savannah

OECI

Po Box 23181
Savannah

Oglesbee Electric, Inc.

2109 Colorado Ave.
Savannah

Pace Electrical Contractors Inc

131 Southern Blvd
Savannah

Paruso Painting & Remodeling

1815 Walthour Road
Savannah

Perna Construction & Flooring

245 Abbey Dr
Richmond Hill

Prestige Remodeling

pobox 82279
Atlanta

PRODUCTION PAINTING

19 Catboat place
Savannah

Prolectric Electrical Contractors

6606 Abercorn St
Savannah

Protile Renovations LTD Co.

Savannah Branch / Pooler Branch / Jacksonville
Savannah / Pooler

Reid Electric

1307 South Rogers Street
Pooler

Remodel Masters

13225 S. Foxridge Dr.

RH Builders

151 Hamelin RD

RLK ELECTRIC + HVAC MAINTENANCE SERVICES

2155 Benton Blvd #3105
Pooler

RNR Home Improvements LLC

2238 Lorraine Ct
Savannah

Robert Conley Home Repairs, Inc.

142 Cambridge Dr
Rincon

Rushing Electrical Co Inc

411 Hwy 80 W
Savannah

Savannah Home Improvements

9247 Garland drive
Savannah

Selectric

234 e magnolia st

Simoneaux Electric, Inc

3 A Lost Hollow Ln

T.O.M.A.S Electric inc

P.O Box 142
Decatur

Top Quality Electrical Contractors Inc.

132 Chatham Villa Dr.
Savannah

Two and a Half Men Construction

201 Casey Dr
Richmond Hill

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Wexford Electric Inc

14 Ole Oak Rd
Savannah

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