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Over 754 reviews for
Quincy Mold Remediators from people just like you.

A
"First of all, someone always answers the phone when you call their number as they offer 24 hour emergency services. Ours was not an emergency but it is refreshing" to call a company and have someone answer the phone right away. I explained that we had a leak from the roof in a small bathroom and thought it may have come from a skylight; and that wanted to have it serviced to prevent mold. They asked what year the house was built and I told them 1957. They said if they needed to open up the wall they would need an asbestos report because many houses built before 1970 had asbestos. He said they would recommend a company. We had a fire at our house eight years ago and had an asbestos report from that event which was acceptable to the company and work was scheduled for two days later. Technician,
and assistant,
, called ahead, arrived on time, and explained the drying process. They used a hand-held diagnostic tool to determine if there was
inside the wall and showed us the display with dark blue area showing
. They covered the work area and told us what to expect. They removed an 18" x 53" section of wall that exposed the water-damaged area. We could also smell that there was
.
said it was very unlikely there was mold growing but he would treat the area for mold just in case. They removed all debris by vacuuming the floor . They set up the industrial-strength drying equipment and showed us how to turn in on and off in the event we may need to turn it off as the exposed area was close to a sleeping room. I was able to sleep without turning the equipment off by just putting a foam earplug in the one exposed ear that was away from the pillow. The equipment ran for approximately 36 hours. Another two employees came back two days later and removed the equipment. Everything went well and we are very satisfied with the workmanship, professionalism, and care rendered by WDR employees. We would be happy to recommend them to others and to use them again should the need arise.

-DEL A.

A
"
was great. He responded on very short notice and arrived exactly when he said he would. He provided expert insight into our concerns, saving" us from wasting countless hours (and dollars) on unnecessary remedies.

-Robert W.

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Local Articles in Quincy

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Quincy

A

Rating
They were professional and responsive. This water leak occurred at my place of business. I popped on Angie's List, found
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and they came right out.
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, the owner, was wonderful to deal with. Very kind and polite. Would certainly use them again.

- stephanie E.
A

Rating
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was punctual and polite and addressed the questions of mold and dampness thoroughly. Men were careful and tidy in their work and we are satisfied that our problem has been properly addressed. Final price was 1/3 higher than original ballpark estimate.
- Carol J.
A

Rating
Good Quality Work - I have never been through something like this before. I was worried this was going to be a huge headache,
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
took care of everything.
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, was our Project Manager. He was on time and true to his word. He walked me through a time table of the project. My wife was home most of the time while the work was being completed. All of the different subs (carpet, drywall, electrician, etc.) were polite to her and cleaned up after themselves. I appreciate the quality of work, and the basement looks better than before!
- Eric C.
A

Rating
Due to a recent snowstorm and spate of cold weather, my sump outlet pipe froze and I ended up with about 2 inches of water in my basement. I tried calling a lot of companies for clean up and they were all busy.
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was able to come right away. I had the plumber in to fix the problem with the sump and then the
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
crew came in and cleaned out all of the damaged carpet and set up fans and dehumidifiers to get the basement dried out. I found the crew (
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
in particular who I mostly dealt with) to be very knowledgeable about what to do to remediate, as well as extremely professional and courteous. I would highly recommend this company to anyone who is faced with the same situation.
- Laurie O.
A

Rating
As part of selling our home, the inspection report cited a small mold problem in a closed and a small leak in our foundation. By the terms of the agreement we had to respond quickly. My phone call was answered immediately, the PRESIDENT of the company himself came on a late Saturday afternoon and everything was resolved within an hour.
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was resourceful, reassuring, professional and solved our problem for far less $$$ than we expected. In a world where its increasingly hard to find reliable service providers,
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
. should be added to your list!
- James R.
N

Rating
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very professional, polite and informative. They had their own Project Manager at the site, they called me promptly every morning to let me know the staff was heading to the property. I asked them for references on companies that do Air testing, they provided me 3. The service was warrantied until passed the air quality test. I would refer them without thinking twice to anyone that needs Mold remediation in Boca Raton, FL.. Thanks specially to
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
,
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
,
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
...
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- Allen H.
N

Rating
It took 3 days to dry my home which I thought was pretty quick, the repairs were excellent, but they took a few days longer then I was told which was not that big of a deal because it was only a few days and I know they were busy but compared to the other restoration companies, things happened quickly.
- darren N.
A

Rating
Quincy Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was great. After finding a puddle in one room and mold in another after a rain storm we were worried about big problems. He was able to come within a week and did a thorough inspection. Because of his contracting and engineering backgrounds he was able to to fully discuss potential causes of our moisture problems. He was prompt, friendly, professional and honest. His prices are fair for this type of work. Fortunately our mold issues were superficial so we did not need remediation. I recommend him without hesitation.
- Carla P.

All Mold Remediators in Quincy, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A1 Certified Home Inspections

9039 SW Tustenuggee Ave
Lake City

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave
Boca Raton

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

AssureClean Restoration Contractors LLC

1051 Lionsgate Ln
Gulf Breeze

Awnclean Diversified Services

501 N Newport Ave
Tampa

Bone Dry Restoration & Cleaning Inc

1285 Smoke Rise Ln
Tallahassee

Dynamic Renovations LLC

8013 Briarcreek Rd S
Tallahassee

ELLSWORTH PAINTING INC

8713 T Bird Rd
Tallahassee

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Miller's Carpet Cleaning

2591 Centerville Rd
Tallahassee

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

PAUL DAVIS RESTORATION

5278 Tower Rd
Tallahassee

PuroClean ofthe Big Bend

2591 Centerville Rd
Tallahassee

Repipe 1

15791 Rockfield Blvd Suite N

ROLYN Companies

5706 FREDERICK AVE

Seminole Carpet Cleaning

400 Capital Cir SE
Tallahassee

SERVPRO of TALLAHASSEE

3161 Eliza Rd # 1
Tallahassee

Southern Restoration Technologies

1400 Village Square Blvd
Tallahassee

The Aerial Companies, Inc.

4492 MERCANTILE AVE
Naples

WEC Heating & Air Conditioning

6244 Bobby Godwin Ln
Tallahassee

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