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was responsive to my phone call. I left a message and he called me back in about 15 minutes. We scheduled an appt. and he arrived right" on time. He went up into the attic, checked the type and frequency of the nails used to attach the roof and look for evidence of a water membrane
. Unfortunately, my roof was not put on with the highest of standards, but
was able to calculate the percentage of my roof that is considered a "hip" style roof. Because of that I did get a significant reduction in my home owner's insurance premium. I had an appt. to get to so had to leave before he was able to complete the window inspection that goes along with the wind mitigation. He came back the next morning at 7:00 am so I could get to other appts. I had and he completed the wind mit. form, complete with pictures and emailed it to me by 9:00 that morning. I would definitely use his service again.

-Wendy W.

"Fantastic job. Even in the initial consultation, you could tell they were thorough and not trying to inflate their job/price. They thought the mold was isolated" to one wall and not spread and quoted the job that way. They were right, it was just the 1 wall that was affected. They took down the wall and removed all the material down to the studs. Treated the whole area with a chemical to keep mold from coming back including other walls of the shower that did not have any mold to make sure nothing came back. I was rather impressed that they left both rooms dust free and clean. I gave both rooms a once-over cleaning, but didn't pick up much dirt. Was very comfortable that the mold spores did not make it anywhere else in the house. The contractors that came afterwards to rebuild the wall commented on the nice job they did and condition they left the studs and corners of the unaffected walls. I would highly recommend
if you're having a mold issue.

-Andrew G.

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Local Articles in Quincy


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Quincy


The service was scheduled, delivered and followed up appropriately. Overall I was most relieved that he recommended a
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
solution to what is not a significant mold problem - and it worked without further expense. I read other reviews of this service provider indicating that they weren't out to take you for a ride - and they are not. Two thumbs up if you want an honest appraisal of a
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
mold problem.
- Helaena W.

Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was thorough, professional and honest. He explained the conditions under which mold would grow and thrive in a residence and gave me some valuable mold prevention information. Fortunately, he concluded that my home was healthy with no mold problem.
- Chris G.

Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very quick to respond back - I read lots of reviews that said he was good about coming to your house and checking out the problem and whether or not it was a professional or home owner level job with a no cost estimate/inspection. I was on the fence if my project needed that and this is a big part of why I selected (plus many positive reviews).
True to his previous positive reviews
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came over quickly, great on phone, and treated it like a "home inspection". Very professional. Spent a solid 30-45 minutes looking at problem areas and was very happy to share information and educate me on how to solve issues. 2/3 areas in my house were able to be solved by me with a little grunt work and dehumidifier. The bigger problem he recommended professional remediation - I completely agreed with his determination. I also believe he would have told me if I hadn't needed his service. Seems to enjoy his job and helping you the homeowner.
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
had some neat tools to show me where problem areas were - heck he even noticed my electrical panel was putting out out more heat then it should and recommended I get an electrician to check it out. We may have a short or wiring problem that we wouldn't have known about so nice catch! Final same day inspection report was very detailed and specific to my house - I wish my home inspector had done such a nice job.
Good communication via phone, in person, and e-mail throughout. One of
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's crew came out within a few days when I was available and took care of all the work within about a half day. I was informed the whole process. Crew was also very nice and professional. I prepped the areas by removing some bathroom items to save a few bucks instead of his crew doing it.
If I had to nitpick or offer a "CON" I would say the job wasn't cheap but I don't think he overcharged or anything. I think the job was just larger and that's what it cost (about $2900). Like any new home owner who the heck wants to drop 3k? Based on previous reviews
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's prices seemed comparable to other mold professionals but I did not personally check as I was sold on having him and trusted previous reviewers had done their price comparisons. The job itself involved a laundry room, a bathroom, a furnace area, and garage (they all shared common walls). Removal of big sections of drywall and insulation and flooring. Job site was left clean and wastes removed.
Word to the buyer -
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very open about this - they are not professional contractors so if they tear areas up either you or another service will have to restore. Not a bad thing just something my wife was surprised about (I was not cause I read previous reviews).
Highly recommend
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and would use again.
- Michael S.

Couldn't be happier. Called and spoke with Nick. He was out to the house within 2 days. Inspected thoroughly and came back with objective and independent information. We just feel more confident having worked with Nick. Price below is reflective of inspection + 2 X $100 ea. samples sent to lab.
- David R.

Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
looking to hire a company who can install insulation on my walls. I had to find someone had a relatively cheap rate with quality work. I had hired
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and got an outstanding services from them. They had done a high quality work and withing my budget. really recommended.
- Emily T.

Air ducts of my house were jammed with dust and filth due to not cleaned for a long time. So I decided to clean them and looking for the best services. My neighbor told me about
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and I called them for the work. They gave me a free quotation. I liked their way to speak and price so I had decided to give them the work. They cleaned my ducts with special care and I liked it.
- Savanna G C.

Hi, CM's. I want to take this opportunity to thank EcoGreen Solutions for
removing my mold problem in my basement. They accommodated my schedule, gave
me a reasonable price for this work and performed the tasks as requested. I
liked them so much that I called the company back to install the insulation
on my walls. My carpenters saw the insulation job and were extremely
impressed with the work that had been done. Take a look at their website.
They have a lot to offer. Here is their contact information.
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked

If anyone is interested, they offer a free energy survey for your home.
It's great to have this done before our cold winter arrives!
Thank you EcoGreen and thank you to the CM who suggested this company to
- Sexy S.

Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very thorough in his evaluation and inspection of our basement.
We scheduled an initial appointment with the Angie's list deal to have the structure of the basement reviewed, air quality tested and reported. Following the report, the remediation services were completed, the team
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very thorough and detailed. They were helpful to us to include the follow up testing in our package.
I hope we don't have to call Apex again but if we did, we would certainly rely on
Quincy Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and team to help us with any future issues.
- Elizabeth S.

Mold Removal Experts in Quincy, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AssureClean Restoration Contractors LLC

1051 Lionsgate Ln
Gulf Breeze

Awnclean Diversified Services

501 N Newport Ave

Dynamic Renovations LLC

8013 Briarcreek Rd S


8713 T Bird Rd

Haber Remodeling LLC

1620 Pat Thomas Pkwy

Indoor Environmental Management

3520 Weems Rd

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

Miller's Carpet Cleaning

2591 Centerville Rd


2501 Mayes Road


5278 Tower Rd

PuroClean ofthe Big Bend

2591 Centerville Rd

Razor's Painting

24 Trinity Church Road

Reliable Claims Adjusting

9953 Stockbridge Drive

Seminole Carpet Cleaning

400 Capital Cir SE


3161 Eliza Rd # 1

Skyline Builders and Developers Inc

210 Hardee Lane

Southern Restoration Technologies

1400 Village Square Blvd

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

WEC Heating & Air Conditioning

6244 Bobby Godwin Ln

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