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"Following the inspection,
, the owner followed up with a detailed analysis and list of recommendations. I felt very comfortable because"
focused on the safety issues and offered a project plan that was customized for my immediate needs and budget.
was also flexible and helped me stay within my budget without compromising the critical areas for repair. A week later,
's team provided excellent service, they: replaced my entire amp voltage to bring it up to contemporary standards, repaired poor wiring and lighting that had not been professionally done, installed GFI protection and other needed protections to prevent overload. Bill is super knowledgeble and proud of his work, treated my home like his own even took his boots off when entering and used drop clothes throughout. Christian,
: the quality of their work surpassed only by their friendliness and respectful manner in which they worked in my home. They cleaned up neatly and stayed late to make sure I understood everything they did and even set my front porch light timer on they way out!

-Kim-Monique J.

"When another electrician did not show up nor give notice that he was not coming to the scheduled appointment on Friday, February 13th between 12:30 and 1:30 p.m.," we turned to Angie's list for help. We spotted the great reviews on
's company and gave him a call that same Friday afternoon. We were shocked when
offered to come give us an estimate on Saturday knowing that it was a three-day weekend (Presidents' Day). Now that's great dedication!
showed up on time and was very personable. When we told him that we had a difficult time walking in the pitch dark from the back of the house to the sideyard where the trashcans are located, he readily recommended a motion detector light. We also had old lights that needed to be switched out to newer models, plus we recently had a patio built and needed two lights installed within the columns of the patio cover. We also purchased a light for over the kitchen
that was "direct-wired", which meant we would need to install a power cord, however,
asked if we saw that same light with a power cord already included. We didn't realize that these lights came in two styles: hard-wired and plug-in ready. We were able to return this light and get one with a power cord already installed. If we had not been able to find the light we needed, then
would have been able to assist us by installing the power cord.
gave us an estimate and we scheduled the work for two weeks later (March 2, 2015) allowing us ample time to prepare a short ditch in order to place the electrical conduit (we will later have concrete poured on top).
returned on March 2, 2015 and was on time and ready to go! He proceeded to wire the two patio lights, switched out the other lights, and installed the motion detector light. He was very quick and efficient. We had the opportunity to try out the motion detector light and are very pleased with that feature. No more stumbling around in the dark! We are very pleased with the work that was performed and very happy with the service from beginning to end.

-Sandra S.

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Local Articles in Port Orange

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

snowy house
Garage Doors, Roofing, Holiday Decorating, Gutter Cleaning, Pest Control/Exterminating, Lawn & Yard Work, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Sweep, Fireplaces, Electrical, Handymen, Housecleaning, Animal & House Sitting, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Lighting, Wallpapering, Plumbing, Heating & A/C, Auto Service, Auto Tires, Allergy & Immunology

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.


Electrical reviews in Port Orange


I had requested appointment late one evening through Angie's list & had a response the next morning.
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived at the time we set up. I showed
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
what I needed done, he went over charges with me & after I agreed he immediately went to work. He didn't waste any time getting everything completed in a timely manner. He cleaned every work area. Very Friendly, Great Communicator, & Very Professional & Great Value for the Money. I will definitely use
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
in the future & Highly Recommend his services.

- Kyra B.

In a time of crisis,
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived promptly and understood the level of concern that we had for the situation. He spent a lot of time with us to ensure we could have power for the night and regain full functionality, even replacing all of the breakers that were wet, already damaged and/or blown. The panel was obviously shot and poorly installed originally. He presented the full facts regarding the concerns for the panel and provided a long term solution that was backed by an equally long term warranty. At no time did I feel that he misrepresented the situation nor attempted to put me into an unwarranted repair. I would most certainly use him again. Probably first to install some sort of ice-dam heater prevention system.
- Amanda L.

Checked electrical boxes, inside and out; Checked all smoke detectors. He found two defective detectors upstairs, showed me the damage, which had been pointed out to me before when I changed batteries. I had him to replace those two detectors, and he checked outlets in the kitchen area as a part of the hour's labor charge. I was pleased with
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
's service. I asked him to remove shoes to protect my carpet, and he complied.
- Louisa H.

I purchased an Angie's list Big Deal to get an outlet installed under my built-ins in the livingroom.
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
contacted me the next day to setup the appt and within a week they were at my house on-time performing the work.
When they arrived, I showed them the where I wanted the outlet installed, where the electrical panel was in the basement and they began working. The work was completed in about 45 minutes. The electrical box they installed wasn't as aesthetically pleasing as I would have liked but is was being installed in an area where it would never be seen so it really wasn't that big of deal.
The only issue that I did have was that they charged me an additional $40 for materials. An electrical box and about 16" of wire shouldn't cost that much. Other than that, the guys were professional and even pointed out some possible issues with some of the wiring in my basement
- Warren G.

My house was built in the 50"s and the wiring going to the A/C unit was very old , cloth covered wire that was brittle and broken in places.They replaced it put in new conduit and set up a disconnect switch to bring it up to code.
- Karen K.

These guys are top notch. We picked them after getting a bid from another contractor who did not give us a lot of confidence. That never was the case with these guys!
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave us a very fair bid and was extremely responsive in terms of exploring a variety of options with us. They were able to schedule the work with pretty short notice on our hot tub delivery which I really appreciated. The guys who did the work were outstanding. Best electricians I've ever hired - quickly figured out the best way to run conduit for our situation (which had confused the other guy we got a bid from) and flawlessly executed it. We will definitely use
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
whenever we need any kind electrical work done.
- BOB S.

ggWe made the arrangements for
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
to installed two dual light which we had purchased on our backyard screened-in back porch. They arrived on time and did a fantisic job of installing the flood light. It is so noce to be able to see our backyard after dark. Great job
Port Orange Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Lori G.

The 2 men were very pleasant, professional, and competent. They were on time from beginning to end. Office was very responsive as well. I'd recommend this company.
- Catherine S.

All Electricians in Port Orange, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 1 Lightning Protection Services Inc.

10240 SW 134 Ct.

Aarrow Electrical

PO Box 913
Lady Lake

Ace Solves It All

1692 Dolores Dr

Air Care Systems Inc

1419 Chaffee Dr

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All American Electrical Services

1234 Electrical Ave.
Daytona Beach

All British American & Foreign

241 S Palmetto Ave
Daytona Beach

All State Home Innovations, Inc

32744 Scenic Hills Dr
Mount Dora


PO Box 530871

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Amp electric

5487 south nova rd
Daytona Beach

Anderson Home Technologies LLC

PO Box 351492
Palm Coast

Apex Electrical Services

831 Railroad St
Port Orange




103 S Piedmont Ave
Port Orange

At Thee Garage LLC

572 8th st
Holly Hill

Atlantic Electric LLC

748 N Ridgewood Ave
Ormond Beach

Atlantic Sun Electric Inc

73 Wentworth Ln
Palm Coast


Daytona Beach


Port Orange


Port Orange



Central Vacuum Stores Inc

11236 47th St N

Clayton's Electric Service Inc.

367 Sisco Rd
Pomona Park


Port Orange

Coastal Electrical Contracting, Inc.

224 Kirkland Road
New Smyrna Beach

Compass Building Services

303 N. Woodland Blvd

Conrad Construction Inc

PO Box 470424

Cornerstone Construction & Company Inc

1746 E Silver Star Rd.

Crapps Electrical Service Inc.

117 Aleatha Drive
Daytona Beach

CREW Electrical Services Inc

2914 Forsyth Rd
Winter Park

Curb Appeal Hardscaping LLC

2036 Ridgewood Ave
Daytona Beach

Custom Electrical Installations Inc.

1210 Bender Ave
Daytona Beach

D & B electric

160 Hope St

D G Meyer Inc

345 Madison Ave
Daytona Beach


Port Orange


398 S Shell Rd

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd


Lake Mary

ElectricGuy Services Inc

PO Box 1006


PO Box 238587
Port Orange

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Ferran Services & Contracting

4420 Eastport Pkwy
Port Orange

Freedom Electric Inc

1613 Lake Dr


257 Hemlock Dr
Ormond Beach


919 N Beach St
Daytona Beach


Daytona Beach


Port Orange

In Phaze Electric

3745 Cord Avenue
Saint Cloud

Jenkins Electrical Contractors Inc

1407 Swiss Lane


947 Beville Rd.
Daytona Beach

Joe Gutowski Electric

33 Trowbridge Path


Port Orange

Johnston Electric LLC

815 N Ridgewood Ave
Ormond Beach


1576 primrose ln.
Daytona Beach


413 OAK PL
Port Orange


Port Orange


873 Hull Road
Ormond Beach

KNJ Homes, Inc.

P.O. Box 731617
Ormond Beach


Daytona Beach

Last Construction Inc

980 Shenandoah Ave

Lenhart Electric Co

8618 NE 43rd Way

Leo A. Paquin HANDYMAN

PO Box 238659
Port Orange


PO Box 593884

LJ Remodeling LLC

632 Robin Rd
Ormond Beach

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

Lyndon S Wolken Repairs-IT!!

41 Ranshire Ln.
Palm Coast

Mark Hickson Homes, Inc.

510 Doyle Rd


Ormond Beach


PO Box 238293
Port Orange

Meeks Enterprises Inc

5783 Sweetwater Blvd
Port Orange

Michael Shaw, INC

578 E. Normandy Blvd.

Mobile Marine Florida, Inc

419 North Washington Ave

Modern Plumbing Industries Inc

255 Old Sanford Oviedo Rd
Winter Springs

Morgan Electric Industries Inc

PO Box 214159
Daytona Beach




P O Box 291892
Port Orange

Mr. Handyman serving Debary, Lake Mary, and Winter

4300 West Lake Mary Blvd.
Lake Mary

Murphy Family Electric

500 North Washington St

Norm's Detailed Handyman Service Inc.

5564 W Bayshore Dr # 2
Port Orange

Orange Avenue Enterprises

300 Wilshire Blvd.

Palmetto Electric, Inc.

1150 West Moody Blvd, Unit 101

Parks Electric Co Inc

415 Parque Dr
Ormond Beach

Parsons Services

870 Taylor
Port Orange


Orange City

Port Orange Electric Company

1145 Saddle Run
New Smyrna Beach

Preferred Electrical Construction Inc

1862 Victory Palm Drive


657 Tumblebrook Drive
Port Orange


185 S Charles Richard Beall Blvd


6392 Nika Ct
Port Orange


Lake Helen

Red Carpet Construction Inc

8A Market Place Ct
Palm Coast

Remodeling Specialist Inc

4 Woodside Dr
Port Orange

Rent a Son of Central Florida, Inc.

42330 Tamarac St.

Renton Electric Inc

PO Box 1726
New Smyrna Beach

Sanford Electric Co II Inc

107 Commerce Way

Seascapes Enterprise Corp.

140 Beau Rivage Dr.
Ormond Beach

Serrano Handyman

Po Box 520814



stephen b. forsythe

PO Box 530561

Sun Electric Inc.

150 Deerpath Rd

Sun State Handyman services LLC

4251 Spruce Crrek Road
Port Orange

Surfside Home Inspections

3925 S Nova Rd
Port Orange


135 Beau Rivage Dr
Ormond Beach

Tech Services Specialties Inc

168 Dogtrack Rd

The Aerial Companies, Inc.



Port Orange

TLC Plumbing & Utility

5000 Edith Blvd NE


400 N US Hwy 1
Ormond Beach

Total Comfort Gas, Inc.

325 Walker Street
Daytona Beach

Total Home Roofing and Construction

2555 N. Courtenay Pkwy
Merritt Island

Trec Services Inc

PO Box 4080


Port Orange

United Water Restoration Group, Inc.

2967 N. Powerline Rd.
Pompano Beach

Universal Power Systems, Inc.

3163 Dudley Dr

Urban Enterprise, Inc.

1788 Arash Cir
Port Orange


Port Orange

W K Manufactured Housing Supply & Repair

1105 Cave Ave
Daytona Beach

Wanerka Electric

4860 Palm Coast Parkway
Palm Coast


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866

Werner's Electrical Werks LLC

PO box 350791
Palm Coast

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