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A
"Great service. Told us what to expect, explained issues, checked on our preferences when possible. Very polite and knowledgeable. We will use
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-Thomas R.

B
"We have power in all outlets but the hallway. The two fixtures in the hallway were not reinstalled. We purchased new fixtures at the recommendation of the electrician," installed them, but those lights are not working. I would like to request that electrician come take a look at this issue.

-Eva H.

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Local Articles in Blountstown

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Blountstown

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Rating
It was perfect!
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his crew are top notch to work with, highly recommend them for all of your electrical and HVAC needs. I hope to have the opportunity to work with them again in the future!
- Christopher C.
A

Rating
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
provided a bid for both the surge suppressor and labor. They were on time, efficient and clean. They did the work in a timely manner, and were personable. We would use them again.
- Diana H.
A

Rating
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
did a fantastic job! He was on time, polite, and never tried to sell me on service I didn't need. He quickly tracked down bad wiring which was causing my bathroom plug outlets to randomly stop working and did a whole assortment of other electrical work around my house. His work is top quality and he always took the time to explain things to me and thoroughly answer any questions I had. Really an all around great hardworking guy!
- Samuel S.
A

Rating
I had tried another local electric company to come out and repair but they were very slow in getting back to me after 2 attempts so I looked on Angie's List and after reading several reviews I selected
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
. I was able to get in contact with someone quickly on 8/4/15 and was able to set up an appointment for 8/7/15. (Coincidently on 8/5/15 a friend had posted on Facebook that she received excellent emergency electrical service from
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
so I was hoping for the same.)
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
S. was the electrician (same person my friend had) and he was on time and very professional. He went to work immediately after I showed him where the circuit breakers and junctions where located.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
worked for about an hour trying to figure out where the problem was and at one point thought he had found the source which was some corroded wires, but once he cleaned them up and he flipped a light switch in the garage the power went out. He tried replacing the GFCI in an outlet and also the light switches to see if they were the cause, but no luck. He did call out another electrician from the company to confer and help check what might be the problem. After some more work they concluded that the issue was with the electrical line underground.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
had given an initial quote $250 for the work he was already doing and when he quoted the additional amount $620 for doing the digging and replacing it was a slight shock. I told
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
I needed a bit of time to work out that portion and he stated the quote was good for several months if I needed that much time.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
cleaned up the area and I paid the $257.00 for that days service.
About 2 weeks later on I called to have
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
come out and do the digging and replacing of the electrical wire underground.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
was again the electrician who came out on 8/27/15 to do
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
. He was again very prompt and courteous and after discussing where he intended to dig and replace the wire, he set to work right away.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
had to work around 2 trees and their roots (the cause of the electrical failure).
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very thorough and did an excellent job. He even did a slight upgrade with the wiring going which would allow electrical upgrades in the garage later.
- Carl I.
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Rating
The work went smooth and was accomplished in a reasonable amount of time. The electricians listened to what needed to be done and went right to work. They were pleasant and cleaned up after their work was complete. I later had an issue with one of the fans and
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
was more than willing to come back to make it right. He takes pride in his work and wants to make sure his customer is satisfied. I would definitely recommend
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
and plan to use them again for future projects.
- Chris T.
A

Rating
We were selling our house and had a couple small things that were found during our home inspection that the buyers wanted taken care of by an electrician. We bought a special deal for a service call and one hour of the electrician's time. He was punctual, courteous, professional. He took care of both items and was a pleasure to work with. We would hire him again without hesitation. A really nice guy.
- Leslie B.
A

Rating
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the best contractor I've ever worked with..and I've dealt with ALOT. He is very nice, professional, ALWAYS on time and gets the job done correctly the first time. We got estimates from a few contractors before we found
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
and they all were way over priced and treated us like they really didn't need our work. Other contractors wanted to charge us $400-$600 just for the permit and
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
charged us exactly what the city charged him, $100. He showed up on the day/time he said he would, installed everything, cleaned up the whole area and even helped me set up my generator to show me how to use the switch. He did not have to do that! Upon inspection (which passed the first time, unlike all the other contractors I have used in the past!) he even labeled my breaker box with little stickers so I wouldn't forget what breakers should & shouldn't be used with the generator AND he even typed me out instructions with exactly each step on how to transfer the power from FPL to the generator. All the other contractors would not even include showing us how to use the switch.
Blountstown Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the best! He is definitely going to stay my electrician for any other work I need done and I highly recommend him to everyone.
- JASON W.
A

Rating
Arrived on time, and worked diligently until everything was complete. We have a 1950s home, and some of these repairs were not easy, but they kept at it until they figured out a way to make it work.
They are cle
- Elizabeth B.

Electricians in Blountstown, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 1 Lightning Protection Services Inc.

10240 SW 134 Ct.
Dunnellon

A-1 Electric of Lake City Inc

188 NE Osburn Way
Lake City

A1Roofman

PO Box 66

Abundant Energy Inc

15074 Park of Commerce Blvd
Jupiter

ACCURATE PUBLIC INSURANCE ADJUSTERS

6017 PINE RIDGE RD
Naples

Atlas Design & Engineering, Inc.

12800 University Dr # 402
Fort Myers

Auto Electric Specialists, LLC

9786 Bonita Beach Rd SE Ste 4
Bonita Springs

Auto Enterprise

6901 US Hwy 19
New Port Richey

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

BensonLights

175 US Highway 1
Key West

BGG ELECTRIC INC

6187 KENDRICK ST
Jupiter

Born 2 Fish

489 Kings Creek Circle
Steinhatchee

BRYAN ELECTRIC CO

219 SW BUNKER ST
Madison

C5, LLC

5303 EAST LONGBOAT BLVD
Tampa

Central Vacuum Stores Inc

11236 47th St N
Clearwater

Cornerstone Construction & Company Inc

1746 E Silver Star Rd.
Ocoee

CREW Electrical Services Inc

2914 Forsyth Rd
Winter Park

DeVane Electric Inc

711 NE 5th Ter
Crystal River

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

ELMORE ELECTRICAL CO

3192 MAGNOLIA ST
Cottondale

ENRIQU EMARTI

1101 WAGON TRAIL
Moore Haven

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

First Day,Inc

802 Campbell Ave.
Lake Wales

Florida Keys Electric Inc

5730 2nd Ave Ste 1
Key West

Get Wired Electric, LLC

P.O. Box 462
Bagdad

Goodyear Leone Auto & Tire

3826 Tampa Road
Oldsmar

HECKARD'S DOOR

1315 NW 53rd Ave
Gainesville

Jason Jones Electric Inc

2732 E 15th St
Panama City

Keefe & Sons Electric Inc

2431 N Hwy 231
Panama City

Kelly Electric

10704 4th Ave. Gulf
Marathon

KYLE THE HANDYMAN

1603 Heinrich Street
Pensacola

LCG Electrical Contractor Co

3016 Seth Rd
North Port

Lenhart Electric Co

8618 NE 43rd Way
Wildwood

LJ Remodeling LLC

24 Bluebird Ln
Ormond Beach

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

LynnLee Construction Group

25 Knight Boxx Road
Orange Park

Martinez Wood Floors Inc

5876 W Flagler St
Miami

McGowan's Heating & Air Conditioning

11320 Phillips Pkwy Dr. E
Jacksonville

MDC Electric Inc.

16600 Castile Ave
Panama City Beach

Mowrey Elevator

4518 Lafayette St
Marianna

NITRO SOUND

211 Commerce Way
Jupiter

NJ Painting Designs Inc

123456
Cape Coral

NORMAND GONSALVES ELECTRICAL

168 JASMINE ST
Tavernier

Pompano Beach Mattys Marine Repairs

Pompano Beach
Pompano Beach

Powersource Electrical Service

4935 S Driftwood Way
Homosassa

PVM Electric

PO Box 18697
West Palm Beach

RC Electrical Services

1832 Cottage Grove Rd
Tallahassee

RV ANYWHERE Mobile RV Service

Overseas Hwy.
Marathon

S & W Kitchens

1025 Miller Dr
Altamonte Springs

Seascapes Enterprise Corp

140 Beau Rivage Dr
Ormond Beach

Senior Wellness Specialists

930 Clint Moore Road
Boca Raton

Solar Direct

6935 15th St E
Sarasota

SOLAR ILLUMINATIONS

5611 Halifax Ave
Fort Myers

SURFACE CITY INC.

2398 COMMERCIAL WAY
Spring Hill

The Aerial Companies, Inc.

4492 MERCANTILE AVE
Naples

THOMAS P OWEN LLC

379 PLANTATION DR
Wewahitchka

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WESLEY'S ELECTRICAL SVC INC

151B Commerce Blvd.
Port St. Joe

WEST FLORIDA ELECTRIC CO-OP

17256 MAIN ST N
Blountstown

Willis Electric Inc

1423 NE 8th Ave
Ocala

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

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