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"Excellent response on delivering needed materials. Great people working in the store to help with products. Questions answered.

-casey B.

" I paid for Five Slab stones. Four of them to be installed in the future, one was for my daughters bathroom. He never completed my daughter’s bathroom after" ten months of promising over and over again that the stone was being fabricated and he kept the money for the four other slabs. This Guy should be a Story book writer with the amount of excuses he will give you. Not an Honest man in my opinion, He took me for about $10K. I will be taking legal actions against this wonderful man.

-Jeffrey M.

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Architects & Building Design, Billiard Table Repair, Billiard Table Sales, Builders - Homes, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Closets, Entertainment/Parties, Epoxy Flooring, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Interior Design & Decorating, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Stereo & Home Theater Systems, TV Sales, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite

Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Townsend


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Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
always comes through for my companies concrete jobs every time I need concrete. I've used
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
for many years on various projects. Also, used
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
's services at my own home. I highly recommend
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
- Benjamin G.

End result was excellent! Some steps along the project path were a bit rough, but we successfully worked through them. I believe the value for the cost was very good.
- Mikel S.

Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
set up firm MJN contracting pool/fence specialists the best people I ever had on time and work and advise were above excellent 30
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
ave Seekonk mass 02771,508 336 8697
- john M.

I met with
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
at the State Fair and liked the new
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
windows they had on display. I sent him an email a couple days later for a quote on the windows. He never responded.
A month later a manager sends me an email asking how my experience was. I tell him what happened and he apologizes for the mix-up, but still doesn't run the quote. What kind of business is this? It feels like something fishy is going on with their sales process.
We haven't had similar problems with other lumber yards in Minneapolis.
- Matthew J.

I visited their location a few times to go over details with
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
. They came out and took templates when the base cabinets were in. They were ready to install a week later as requested. They had to wait for us just a little bit. My walls were not easy as I have one angled and one wrap around counter to do. The fabrication was great!
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
even went above and beyond and suggested I add a piece to the backsplash of a cabinet that made the cabinets look even better. Thank you!
- Catherine D.

Service was fantastic. We had a lot of errors on our blueprints and helped me work through them with design and architectural problems. They pointed out mistakes the other stores did not even bring up so that's what made me choose them; they have a lot of forethought to make sure everything is accurate. Plus they were competitive! They have
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
was my rep
- . ..

Never got the estimate I paid 99 dollars for.
Now its 3 weeks since we tried to get a
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
kitchen counter there. The were nice. They said they had no idea why the people they subcontract to for their Kitchen work were totally unresponsive after 3 weeks. The also, they kindly returned the 99 dollars. They said they were mystified,
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
-struck and confused as to why their contractor was so ridiculously bad doing his job.
More of the Story:
Ten days or so after we paid the 99 dollars we still had heard nothing. I was able to get the number of the contractor from a person in that dept. I called about three times, and finally, on bended knees, they agreed to come out, at the end of the month! I begged and begged and then finally they caved in and sent someone to perform this 99 dollar estimate. He came, He said the estimate would be done in a few days. Ten more days later, and
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
manager who could not seem to get them to cooperate called and said he was going to refund our money. We lost a month at Home Depot. I would suggest you look anywhere else. At least until they change contractors. Which I assume will be rather soon.
There are plenty of good places to go for kitchen work, choose anyplace else, and you will be happier, I can assure you of that.

- David C.

I inquired about purchasing a set of two chairs and an ottoman they had outside on the end of year sale. I was told they had four sets left in stock so I purchased one set and had it delivered the next week. I was under the impression I would be getting a new set and not the model on display outside. When it was delivered the chairs were wet and the cushions were dirty. I called and was told they did not have anymore in stock and could not do anything about the dirty cushions. I am so disappointed because I had planned to use this set indoors and did not want dirty cushions. Usually floor/last models are discounted further as last in stock and
Townsend Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
's did not offer any further discount. It is unfortunate that I was deceived into thinking I was getting a new set and they are unwilling to offer any solution other than an apology. Buyer beware and ask more questions.
- Therese W.

Hardware Stores in Townsend, DE

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Agron Construction

10154 Bustleton Avenue

ARC Installations LLC

2081A Hartel Ave

Bella's Cabinet Gallery

444 Commerce lane

Below Budget Builders

4415 New Falls Rd.

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas



D&G Flooring

838A Putnam blvd

D'King Construction

3914 N 7th street

Direct Rental Service

4001 Kennett Pike, , , , USA

Granite Wonderland

1781 Wilmington Pike Glen Mills

Gravely Hockessin Inc

654 Yorklyn Rd


2037 Washington Ave.

Hand Tools Direct

1330 Conshohocken Road

Hang Time Tools

On line store

Heat Shed Inc

267 Rock Ridge Rd

Holcomb Cabinetry

2505 Philadelphia Pike





MC Electrical LLC

72 N. Norwinden Drive



Metal Supermarkets

7120 Golden Ring Road

Moore Builds LLC

45 Long Bow Drive




230 Kings Highwas East Suite 195



PDM Construction

8012 English Creek Ave

Premium Building Products, Inc.

507 School House Road

Proton Electric Inc


RB painters plus

1436 benner st

RDLconstruction llc

621 andrea rd

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Repairs & Paints LLC

24 Kirkdale Dr

Scalewatcher North America

345 Lincoln Street

Seafarer Marine

3100 SW 3rd Ave

Seibert & Smith Contracting

347 W. 8th Street "At the Causeway"

Seibert & Smith Contracting

819 Octorara Trail

Sharp Remodeling

961 Gravel Pike

Shelly Enterprises

3120 Old State Rd

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

Villanova Garage Doors

1851 Montgomery Ave.


10871 Bustleton Avenue

Welcome Neighbor

15 Longview Rd

Wyndmoor True Value Supply

907 E Willow Grove Ave

Yocum Shutters & Blinds

5716 Kennett Pike

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