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answered my initial call promptly, was very responsive and friendly. He was punctual and efficient when coming to my house to provide a quote." Later when scheduling the work to be done, he was flexible. He called and was apologetic when he was called out of town for a family issue at the last minute and the men working for him who came to complete the work were professional and completed the work efficiently with little mess. I would definitely call him again.

-Sheela B.

"It all went very well.
quickly identified the circuit break even though a friend of mine (who had worked with electricity for many years)" could not.
was very friendly and took his time to explain some wiring techniques to help me with a project. When I reach to the point in my project where I'm ready to connect, I definitely will pay
to inspect my work and make the final connections.

-James K.

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Local Articles in Washington DC

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Washington DC


Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, friendly and timely. Arrived on time, installed devices quickly and efficiently. Cleaned up afterwards. Very friendly! Final price as quoted. Will definately use again for all my electrical work!!!
- Joseph W.

They did a great job, were very punctual and got the job done pretty quickly, even though they were operating on an agreed hourly rate. For small jobs, they don't quote a fixed price, but perform on an hourly basis. We were happy that they agreed to do the job on short notice (about a week), even though it was pretty small. Would definitely use them again.
- Charles R.

I bought the deal on Friday, received communication on Tuesday and he was here on Wednesday.... I had an outside electric outlet on my deck which stopped working about a year ago. I do remember checking the GFCI's in the house and it not helping, but
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
thinks it was a tripped GFCI. In any case, my outlet was old and had individual covers for each outlet... one of which had broken apart. Now I have a new one which looks much nicer. I overpaid, but that is my fault for purchasing the deal for a new outlet when all I needed was to have it replaced.
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
's Law would have it that if I hadn't done it this way then something would have gone wrong and I would have needed an entire new one installed there anyway. :)

Probably the most professional service I have ever received on my home. We have had electrical issues for years and even though several of the repairs were
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
in nature, they pointed out some very big issues and repaired the original shoddy construction. Their price was very fair given the amount of work and time they put in. Gave detailed explanations and
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
on every repair. This is the only electrician I will ever call again in the future!! Thank you
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Nicole R.

The install of my new panel and all additional work went very smoothly. I was very happy with the knowledge and professionalism of the electrician(s) and crew members. They were punctual and offered suggestions on additional work I will want to have done in the future. I would recommend this company to anyone needing electrical work and I will definitely be using them again.
- Kathie W.

They did an excellent job. The only fault I could find was they didn't plan well on keeping the insulation from coming out of the attic while they made holes for the cans. Big mess.

- Jack P.

Thanks to all that have written reviews on
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
. You are the reason I chose this company. I highly recommend
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
. and will definitely call them in the future for my electrical needs.
Last evening I realized my A/C had stopped working and temp was rising in the house. I have a 93 year old Mom who is very ill and bed ridden. The breaker had tripped and when I reset, it made a terrible noise and immediately tripped again. I assumed it was the breaker as this is an older home. I logged on to Angie's List and looked for an electrician I felt I could trust and I sent an email. I called around 7:30 am this morning and left an voice mail explaining the critical situation with my Mom.
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
returned my call at 8:03 and made arrangements to send an electrician,
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
, to our home mid morning. She was very sensitive and responsive to the situation with my Mom. This company knows and believes in customer service.
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
called 30 mins ahead as she said he would, was on time, and very professional. He worked quickly and determined that in fact I did NOT need new breakers, but let me know he believed it was my A/C Compressor. He could have changed out the breaker and charged me. However, he said the breakers looked good and I called the A/C company.
As I said - I highly recommend. They are honest, professional, and completely customer focused.
Thank you
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
for the great work.
- Brenda M.

Two workman showed up. One was an apparent electrician the other apparently his helper. I told them what I wanted done; e.g., the installation of a light fixture in the kitchen or the installation of two electrical outlets or a hall light connected to an already existing adjacent light switch. The kitchen light work appeared to be too complicated and they did not have the parts on their truck to install the electric switches. They left and returned on a later date. I had the two men take down and install a new ceiling fan in
Washington DC Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the other work. The ceiling fan works fine. It took about 45 minutes to install. I hired a different contractor who got the work done in a professional manner.
- Rod C.

Electricians in Washington, DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

186 Engineering, PLLC

PO Box 56126

3-R Contracting, LLC

237 East Davis Street

4 Service Pros

2010 Corporate Ridge

5th Gen Group

8704 Garfield Street

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A & R Electric

7636 Airpark Rd

A to Z Remodeling

7118 Cold Spring Ct

A#1 Air

601 E. Corporate

A&K Remodeling

Po Box 2266

A&S Electric, LLC

12913 moray rd

A-1 Handyman

4704 Eddystone St



A-Pro Renovation

1629 K St. NW

A1 - Simco Electric Inc.

5117 Yorkville Rd


PO BOX 1285


8101 Hudson Falls Way

Abbey Design Center

21465 Price Cascades Plz

ABC Design and Build Inc

6715 Blacklick Rd

Absolute Electric LLC

111 Carpenter Drive

AC solutions&more

2109 highcourt ln

ACA Contracting

5500 Holmes Run Parkway Suite C4

Academy Remodeling

8208 Wahly Dr

Accents Painting Plus Inc

12416 Pretoria Dr



Ace Deck & Fence

1001 N Fillmore St

Ace Electric Inc

472 Lawrence Circle

Ace Home Medics

143 Main Street


4620 Columbia Rd

ACES Electric

505 Decatur Rd

Acute building construction, llc

2017 Vermont Ave NW

ACV Home Improvement LLC

6748 Jenny Leigh Ct

Advanced Electric

10495 Greenleaf Place



Air Benders

23571 Pebble Run Pl

Air Master 07, LLC

3152 Annandale Rd

Air Plus Air Conditioning And Heating

7200C Telegraph Square Dr

Air Purifying Systems

3804 Roxbury Ct.



Air Treatment Co

518 Mill St NE

Air-Right Energy Design Inc

12167 Livingston Rd

Aisner Management

11727 N Shore Dr

AJP Construction

5476 Enclave Crossing Way

Ak Electronics

452A Shadyhill In

Al & Linda's Tile Inc

690 SW Bacon Ter

Alan Holstein

301 W 53rd St

Alba Contracting Co

1510 S George Mason Dr

All Around Home Improvement

11839 Shire Ct. #32

All Brite Electric Inc

1276 Oates St NE

All Builders United

6904 Highland St


PO BOX 6354

All Eco Center

2662 University Blvd W



All Renovations Inc

6920B Braddock Rd


18534 Cherry Laurel Lane

Ample Electric

17527 Kohlhoss Rd


9605 Ironsides Rd.

ANB Telecom & Electric, LLC

11023B Villaridge Ct.

Ancora Contracting

3351 Highwood Dr. SE

Anderson Construction

12004 Mastbrook Lane

Andrew Day Electric Inc

832 Oak Hill Ave

Appleton Campbell

100 E Franklin St

Appliance Fix-It, Inc.

5800 Seminary Rd

Arc Electricity

2921 Stillwood Cir #202

ARH Electric

PO Box 3638


1627 R ST NW

ARJ Group, Inc.

412 H St NE

Atlas Home Inspection

1614 N Wakefield St

Atlas Roofing Co

7311 Highland St

Auto Clinic Care

5531 Nicholson Lane

AV Carpenters LLC.

6 Tarfside Court


5717 Dix St NE


1304 Garrison Ct NE

awm electric service

614 larchmont ave

Axton Handyman Svcs

4414 Middle Ridge Dr



B & B Quality Home Improvement

13251 overcup oak court


5019 Rodman Rd

B.A.I Construction

2815 Gibson Oaks dr

B.K. Services

504 kibler circle

Bailey & Shipp Electric

2822 Solomons Island Rd

Bair Group LLC

11160 C1 South Lakes Dr



Barratt Construction

PO Box 60463

Barry's Capentry

5515 Heming Ave.

Bath & Kitchen Showroom

12104 Wilkins Ave



Beacon Electrical Services Inc

8494 E Signal Hill Rd

Bear Electric

1915 Anderson Rd

Bear Rock Electric Inc

Corporate Offices in Mt Airy, MD and

Beauchain Builders Inc

15 Barnswallow Ct

Beautiful Home Services

18909 Fisher Ave

Begue General Contractors Inc

20628 Middlecreek Ct

Bella Casa LLC

14216 Long Green Dr

Benfield Electric of Virginia Inc.

12021 Wilton Meadows Ct

Benitez General Contractor

6225 Summer Pond DR


709 Archer Court

Bentz Electric

11215 Georgia Ave Apt 608

Bethesda Home Improvements

10 Old Bonifant Road

Bethesda Systems

4712 Rosedale Ave

Beyond Design Inc

13215 Twin Lakes Dr




1800 Diagonal Road



Billings Construction Inc

14725 Baltimore Ave

bingers handyman services

11454 green acres ct

BK Contracts

120 Halifax Ave

Blanca's Remodleing

303 Sunbury Ln

BLC Services LLC

22276 Great Trail Ter

Bogan Services

21357 Village Green Circle

Bonillas Contractors Inc.

13408 Tamarack Rd

Bonn Group America Inc

1629 K St NW
Washington Dc

Bowie Shell

15651 Annapolis Rd

Boyland Electric Inc

21516 Laytonsville Rd

Boyles Home Services

308 Palmspring Dr

BP Associates Inc.

4005 Mavis Court

Brook Custom Remodeling

10114 Oakwood Chase Ct


3026 7TH ST SE

Brown Dog Construction

313 N Oak Park Ave

Browns Construction, LLC

10767 Brent Town Rd

Building Services Group LLC

1250 Connecticut Ave NW

Buri Electric,LLC.

11654 Plaza America Dr

Butel Construction Inc

733 N La Brea Ave

C & A Electric

4208 48th Street

C & G Plumbing & Htg Co

4506 Sumerduck Rd



C H Tel. Co., Inc.

11700 Piedmont Rd.

C P Electric Inc

15501 Tuxedo Ln


7646 Fullerton Rd

C-N-S Remodeling

4105 Duke St

C.B.S. Enterprises LLC

904 Princess Anne St

C.E.B. Services, LLC

341 Ritenour St

C.J. Construction And Painting

1847 Flint Hill Road

C.R. Contracting LLC

9107 Paloma Ln



Cable Connexions LLC

2201 Eastern Blvd.


1625 I ST NW

Cabletek LLC

2426 Cloudcroft Square

Capital Area Construction

104 Carpenter Drive

Capital Climate Services

8913 Hilton Hill Dr.

Capitol Boiler Works

7921 Woodruff Ct

Capitol Kitchen & Bath

2840 Hartland Rd




4101 Waterbuck Way

Carlos Camayo

9290 Towerside Dr

Carlos Gomez

3612 Freeport Ct


2230 George C Marshall Dr Apt 703


2901 V ST NE

Cherry Hill Cabinetry

6232 Old Dominion Dr

Chesapeake Kitchen Design

4622 Wisconsin Avenue NW

Chevez HVAC, Inc.

4005 Underwood St.


4415 4TH ST NW


7722 Whiterim Ter




1849 C ST NW


320 1ST ST NW

Chris Ecker

9737 Lake Shore Dr



Chryst Brothers Construction

6450 Old Dominion Dr

Church Services

1260 Brittmore Rd

Circuit LLC

8213 11th Ave

Citi Electric Company

12587 Fair Lakes Circle

Clark's Home Improvement

2010 Bruce Place SE



Classical Electric

9523 Southern Cross Ln

Code Electric, Inc.

12931 Alderleaf Drive

Cody Malone Services

110 Cranes Corner Rd

Cole Electric Inc

2093 Harbor Ln

Colle Electric, LLC

9822 Darcy Forest Dr

Collins Tile & Stone

44642 Guilford Dr




15456 Old Columbia Pike

Comfort MD

26001 Miles Rd


12801 Worldgate Dr Ste 500


910 17TH ST NW


5252 Cherokee Ave



Contractors Consortium LLC

6412 Brandon Ave.

Contractors For Less

8238 Georgia Ave

Conway Services

1220 Big Orange Rd.

Copeland Construction

19828 Chesley Knoll Drive


3113 Hewitt Ave Apt 517

Core Outdoor Living

12642 Chapel Rd

Cornerstone Design Remodeling LLC

11350 Random Hills Road Ste 800

Cortez Services LLC

6130 Marshall Dr

Courtesy Electric Inc

8363 Shady Grove Cir


7511K Leesburg Pike

Covenant Development Company

818 Connecticut Avenue NW

Cox Communications

3080 Centreville Rd



CR8 Construction LLC

71 N Street NW

Craft Electric

12241 Thyme ln

Craft Kitchen & Bath

4008-C Walney Rd

Craig's Helping Hands

37 Torremolinos Dr



CRG Remodeling

1141 5th Street Northeast


8421 Hilltop Rd


1162 Taft St



Current Power Inc

4106 Harvard Pl Ste B4

Custom Cable & Sound

671 Constellation Sq

Custom Colors LLC

7808 Rebel Dr

Custom Home Improvement LLC

11317 Aristotle Drive



Custom Runs Tech & A/V

5004 Honeygo Center Dr

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