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A
"
is AWESOME because
is committed to doing the job right. Our water heater broke down two days before the
" 4th weekend. He was recommended by our home warranty company. First, the insurance company told him that he needed to just replace a part. He called around and tried to get the part, but it had been discontinued everywhere (due to the age of the water heater). Once he determined that the water heater needed to be replaced, he had to get approval for a new one. He spent an hour on the phone dealing with the insurance company (because they had a new employee who didn’t know how to process the claim). He wouldn’t give up. He knew we were in a bind, because if we didn’t get the water heater by the next day, everything would be closed for the holiday weekend. He did this despite the fact that he had a couple more jobs after us which would take him well into the evening to finish. The next day, he pulled the permit, replaced the water heater and did all of the building code upgrades so that we had hot water for the holiday weekend. He is friendly and really knows what he is doing.
is awesome!

-Anna D.

A
"Had a little delay in scheduling due to an injury to the owner, but his son came out and did the job the next day, so I really was not inconvenienced. The job was" done well and I have not had any issues since. Would use again if necessary.

-SUE S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Oakville

C

Rating
He came and gave an estimate and he acted as if he knew nothing. We don't have the tools to install it , he came in and said that he didn't not see enough parts here and that he felt like he could not complete the work . And we have not heard anything from them since
- Karen T.
D

Rating
The provider came to your home , stated that he was going to charge you $600.00 for a kitchen sink to be installed . A friend of mine was at my home at the time and asked what his hourly rate was and that was no where near close 600.00 so I told him that we were going to look around and then with in that time he dropped his price to 200.00
- keri J.
A

Rating
I called mid day and they were at my house by 6pm. They used a camera to look for the problem and cleared the drain. They were finished in a little over and hour. They were fast, professional and efficient.
- NANCY K.
A

Rating
One of my toilets was blocked and I called after 5 pm on a Wednesday evening. They were able to schedule me for the following day at noon but called me the following morning to say they were ahead of schedule and could come earlier if I wanted them to (which I did). Two men showed up, one of whom snaked the toilet/drain while the other handled the business end of things. After the toilet was cleared, they had me flush it several times to make sure I was satisfied that it was cleared. It now flushes better than it ever has since I've lived here. The price was slightly less than I was quoted over the phone. It was all a very satisfactory experience. My only slightly negative comment is that one of the men smelled very strongly of cigarettes which took a little bit of time to clear my bathroom. Otherwise, it went very well and I would call them again.
- Caroline R.
A

Rating
Initially I called a drain pipe contractor. At the time he was dealing with a heavy backlog of work. But he recommended that I call
Oakville Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
because he thought they might be able to do a quick relatively inexpensive diagnosis of the problem. So that is what I did.
Oakville Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
sent their technician,
Oakville Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, out within a couple of hours. He was able to check nearly the entire network with his camera. He determined that there was no blockage of the drain lines, but the route from the backed-up drain (which carries most of the water) is by far the longest and least streamlined from a flow standpoint. That is very useful information. It tells me I need to reroute the backed-up line and probably increase its diameter.
- Wayne M.
A

Rating
The office person was very nice and accommodating. The fit me in the same day I called which I really appreciated.
The service person was prompt, professional and completed the work quickly and efficiently. I was very pleased with the service and will use them again when needed,.
- Wilson D.
D

Rating
The snaking man arrived in a bad mood. I do not know his name because he never bothered to introduce himself. He started off by informing me that he had already had a long, hot morning and said "so, what are we here for?" as if I was somehow wasting his time already. As I began to explain the issue, he interrupted me to say, "you think I know where your washer is, because I don't." I
Oakville Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
this rude man to the washing machine and he took about 15 minutes to snake it. It seems like a high price for such a short job, but I know that's how these things are. The drain seems to be clear for now and I was able to do a load of laundry, so what they did worked. However, I would never use this company again, nor would I recommend them to anyone else, simply due to the unpleasant experience of having this unprofessional person in my house. He was easily the rudest home repair/service person I have ever dealt with.
- Catherine H.
A

Rating
I purchased a package for Main Sewer line cleaning because I was having a problem with water backing up problem in my basement.
Oakville Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
responded quickly, and took the time to really get to know what my issue really was instead of just performing what I had asked for! He explained things to me and then proceeded to take care of the real issue very quickly. He left everything cleaner that it was. Exceeded my expectations!
- Jay L.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Oakville, CT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Carl Profita and Sons

2 Debra Lane
New Milford

Cornwall Plumbing & Heating, LLC

366 Furnace Brook Rd.
Cornwall Bridge

K & M Plumbing LLC

31 Meadow Ridge Rd
Northfield

M & M Construction LLC

49 Brown St
Bloomfield

New Hope Carpentry

58 May Street
Fairfield

New Milford Foundry & Machine Co

84 West St
New Milford

Plumbers Plus LLC

P.O. Box 131
Watertown

Rhodes Pump Service

2351 Boston Post Rd
Guilford

Superior Sewer & Drain Service

171 Peters Dr.
Groton

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