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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Beacon Falls

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

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Some projects require a licensed contractor to ensure they are completed safely and properly.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

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Think you can bypass the permit process when it's time to remodel?

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As a home seller, there's nothing more nerve-wracking than waiting for the results of the buyer's home inspection.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Beacon Falls

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Beacon Falls, CT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Ability Electrical Services Inc

1012 Old Colony Rd
Meriden

Accelerated Electrical Services LLC

242 Diana Rd
Plantsville

Accurate Electrical Contractors LLC

123 Union city road
Prospect

ACE ELECTRIC CO

279 Nutmeg Rd S
South Windsor

Additional Help LLC

66 Ridge Rd
Middletown

ADVANCED ELECTRICAL SOLUTION

PO BOX 1956
Bristol

Advanced Protection

451 Ward Street Ext
Wallingford

Aiello Home Services

PO Box 548
Windsor Locks

Al. The Electrician

30 BURLINGTON ST.
Hartford

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All American Electric LLC

59 Scenic View Dr
Northfield

All American Home Services

36 Summerwood Ridge
Tolland

All Electric Construction

190 B Buckingham Ave
Milford

All Electrical&Telecom

PO Box 986
East Granby

All Green it, Solar

123 Farmington Avenue, Suite 162
Bristol

All Star Electric

372 N Brooksvale Rd
Cheshire

America One Abatement Inc.

40 Atwater Street
New Haven

Andy's Home Improvement Center

32 Wintonbury Ave
Bloomfield

Angel Electric, LLC

48 Bliss Street
Hartford

Apex Communications

145 Flanders Road
Bethlehem

Apple Valley Electric LLC.

18 Great Pine Path
Plantsville

Apples to Apples Inc.

1204 Main Street
Branford

APPRECIATED TOUCH

50 RANDAL AVE
West Hartford

AR Renovations LLC

25 Murray Rd
Bristol

ARCHITECTURAL INNOVATIONS

9 GARFIELD RD
Rocky Hill

Atlantic Electric LLC.

PO Box 455
Canton

Automatic Door

70 Raton Rd
Milford

Automatic TLC Energy

64 Oakland Ave
East Hartford

BCS Electric

Meriden

Berkshire Property Services

290 Roosevelt Avenue
Torrington

Bernier Remodeling, LLC

1080 New Haven Ave Apt 90
Milford

Better Built Basements LLC

229 Christian Ln
Berlin

Blake James Construction

123 Edson Ave
Waterbury

Blueprint Services LLC

PO Box 1458
Bridgeport

BRISTOL VACUUM CLEANER

922 stafford ave
Bristol

Brooks Electric LLC

22 Chestnut Hill Road
East Hampton

C Maratta Builder LLC

64 Groveland Ter.
Newington

CAG Electrical Co., Inc.

375 Mather St Ste 8
Hamden

Calo Electric

699 Country Wood Ct
Cheshire

Cambridge Electric LLC

24 Straitsville Rd. FLR 2
Prospect

Caruso Construction LLC

1840 Morrill St Apt 207

Castle Developers, LLC

1131 Tolland Tpke.
Manchester

Celebration Contracting LLC

20 Hamilton Dr
Madison

CGM electric, LLC

308 Fairlea Road
Orange

ClearView Switch Guard

12 Beaverbrook Road
Unionville

COLLEGE BOUND HANDYMAN

441 TOLLGATE RD
South Glastonbury

connecticutwindow

PO BOX 809
Somers

Cormier Electrical Service LLC

53 Forest Dr
Wethersfield

Cote Electric

Willimantic
Willimantic

Country Paint & Hardware Inc.

2410 Foxon RD
North Branford

CPE Electric LLC

259 Wolcott Road
Wolcott

CS auto repair

120 Mason Ave
Waterbury

CSC & Son LLC Home Improvement

32 Pond St
Naugatuck

Ct Design Electric

P.O. box 912
Manchester

CT Electrical Services

16 Pamanata Meadows
Beacon Falls

CT HOME AUTOMATION LLC

CAROL DR
Cheshire

CTGutterPro, LLC

1563 Meriden Waterbury Tpke
Milldale

Curb Appeal Home Improvement

105 Orland St
Bridgeport

D.F. MCDERMOTT COMPANY LLC

171 WAKELEE AVE
Ansonia

Dave's Electrical Service

792 Old Main St
Rocky Hill

Dave's Handyman Shop

9 Selden Hill Drive
West Hartford

Davies Communications Cabling

182 ridgewood acres
Thomaston

dba D&DRenovations

206Elm Street #0293
New Haven

DCA Home Improvement

9 Rivercove Dr
Cromwell

Direct Electrical Services LLC

P.O. Box 119
Windsor

DIVENERE COMPANIES LLC

35 WOOSTER CT
Bristol

Diversified Electrical Contracting Inc.

P.O. Box 221
Falls Village

Do it electric

76 Stuyvesant av

Double D Electrical Services,llc.

P.O. Box 9208
New Haven

DPM ELECTRIC

64 FIELD RD
Somers

DPMHANDYMANSERVICES, LLC

118 jude ln
Southington

DSA ELECTRIC

147 JOHN ST
Newington

Dynamic Electrical Systems LLC

32 Preston Ave
Meriden

E. Arthur Electric, LLC

PO BOX #105
Portland

E.J.S ELECTRIC

P.O BOX 275
North Haven

East Bay for Handyman

37 Riverside Dr
Branford

Eastview Electric LLC

91 Eastview Dr
Windsor

Ecua Electric

13 Melillo
Bethel

ElecCom LLC

6 Bay Path Dr.
East Hartford

Electrical Power Systems LLC

12 Knollwood Rd
West Hartford

Electrical Services Group LLC

37 Townsend Avenue
New Haven

Elite Electrical Services

226 Charter Oak St
Manchester

EMEC Electric LLC

261 Chidsey Av
East Haven

Endless Energy

184 Cedar Hill St

Energy Connection Inc.

PO Box 318
Collinsville

Eriksson Electric

19 Race Brook Road
West Hartford

Excalibur Construction

65 1st Ave
New Haven

F & S Electric Services, LLC

42 Woodlawn Street
West Hartford

Ferencz and Co

PO Box 110601
Trumbull

Fletcher's Plumbing & Heating

216 Central St
Bristol

Fontaine Electric LLC

40 plymouth street
Middletown

Fox Electric

17 Lewis Street

FullTec Consultants

Commonwealth Ave

Gallery Of Kitchens & Baths

1027 Post Road E
Westport

GAMCO ELECTRIC

1098 PLEASANT ST
Southington

GC PAINTING & LANDSCAPING

296 Pastors Walk
Monroe

GENOVA ELECTRICAL SVC

42 WATERBURY RD
Prospect

GNG Communications LLC

203 Ratley Rd
West Suffield

Gorham Remodeling

145 pulaski hwy

Gowing Custom Building

2 Joseph Ave
Wolcott

Green View Electric LLC

35 Barker st.
Hartford

HADDAM ELECTRIC

1095 DURHAM RD
Madison

HANDY DANS

121 METACOMET DR
Meriden

Heartwood Cabinet Refacing, LLC

298 East Street
Plainville

home doctor/roofs r us

85 bradley ave
Meriden

Homeguard Us

111 Collett St
North Haven

Hunter Services

7 Hine Street
Seymour

Ice Machines Plus

36 Holly Dr
Newington

Icon Electrical Services LLC

258 Morningside Dr East
Bristol

IDEAL ELECTRIC LTD

32 Wedge Hill Dr
Oxford

Ideal Electric LTD, LLC

32 Wedge Hill Dr.
Oxford

iDo-That!

Terryville

In Charge

96 Saw Mill Drive
Wallingford

Infinity Electric LLC

2934 Country Club Blvd

Install it Today HARTFORD

4388 France Ave S
Enfield

INSTANT ELECTRICAL

145 new london turnpike
Glastonbury

J Electrical LLC

63 Montclair dr
Manchester

J.R.E. LLC - ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

168 Farms Village Road
West Simsbury

Ja-Ma Wellington Electrical

17 Dunbar St
Waterbury

JMP Electric

111 Margarite Road
Middletown

John Balzano Electric

99 Fern St.
Naugatuck

John C Fiderio & Sons Inc

687 Broad St
Meriden

John Horne Electrical LLC

2 Shelley Cir
Milford

JS Electrical LLC

230 South Washington St
Plainville

K-CO Electric, LLC

6 Hale Ct.
Plainville

KCO Electric, LLC

6 Hale Ct
Plainville

KENNEDY ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

71 Church Avenue
Bristol

Knibbs Electrical Services LLC

706 Spring st
Southington

KURKER ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 380031
Hartford

L..D.K.Contractors

90 deer run dr
Colchester

Lady House Doctors

New Britain

Lagasse Electric LLC

27 Camden St
Milford

Langdeau Carpentry & Remodeling

270 Wolcott Rd
Wolcott

LAWRENCE ELECTRIC

14 JOHN ST
Milford

LIISTRO ELECTRIC LLC

97 Cedar Ridge Ter
Glastonbury

Linda Jones Home Improvements

421 Jackson Hill Road
Middlefield

Line Electrical Contractors

11 E Aurora St
Waterbury

Luminous Electric LLC

64 Fairbanks ST
Plainville

M K Electric LLC

356 Lake Plymouth Blvd
Plymouth

Malangone Electric

46 Depot Rd
Milford

Manchester Electric

226 Charter Oak St.
Manchester

MARK ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 1212
Middlebury

Marty's Electrical Svc LLC

42 Candee Ave
West Haven

Mascaro Electric

11 Scofield Rd
Colchester

Merrill Electrical Service, Inc.

40 Thomas Street
East Hartford

MGM ELECTRICAL INC.

396 SKIFF ST
North Haven

Miceli Electric LLC

33 Maple Ridge Drive
Farmington

MIELE ELECTRIC/POWER II LLC

137 BUNKER HILL AVE
Waterbury

MJM Electric, LLC

59 BRIDGE ST
Thomaston

Mo Electrical Contractrors LLC.

106 Maple St.
East Hartford

Mobile Installations

534 Broad St
Bristol

Mod Tech HOME DESIGN

114 Balance Rock Rd
Seymour

New Hope Carpentry

58 May Street
Fairfield

NJF Electrical Services LLC

21 Englewood drive
East Haven

Northeast Electrical Contractors LLC

208 Highland St
Rocky Hill

NORTHERN LIGHTS ELECTRICAL LLC

4 HANOVER FARMS RD
Bolton

Old Gate Builders/Handyman Services

105 Welchs Point Rd
Milford

Omega Painting & Decorating LLC

10 Rosenthal St
East Hartford

ONE SOURCE Facility Maintenance

862 East Center Street
Wallingford

ORBITECH SATELLITE SERVICES LLC

282 EAST STREET,(RT10)
Plainville

Ortega's Home Repair

47 Madison Avenue

OT Builders, LLC

42 Belmont St.
Hartford

Oxford Electric LLC

423 Chestnut Tree Hill Rd
Oxford

PACE ELECTRIC SERVICE LLC

167 Cherry st #272
Milford

Pale Electric LLC

3 Macintosh Dr
Oxford

PAT DELUCCO - MASTER ELECTRICIAN

P.O. BOX 621
Rocky Hill

Patriot Wiring

56 windsorville rd
Broad Brook

Plumbers Plus LLC

P.O. Box 131
Watertown

PolyService Mechanical LLC

197 Roger Williams Rd
Bridgeport

Power All Electric & Security LLC

12 Mount Vernon Avenue
Waterbury

Provenzano Electric

14 Maple Ridge Dr
Somers

PSM Remodeling

244 Handel Road
East Hartford

PTE Energy

93 Whiting St
Plainville

Qimira Corporation LLC.

7 Stacey LN
Enfield

Ramirez Contractor

297 Ferry St
New Haven

Rarick's Handyman Service

160 Riverside Dr
Hamden

RCI SOLUTIONS

283 Collins St.
Hartford

Reconnstruction Center, Inc.

731 New Britain Ave.
Newington

RED ROOSTER CONSTRUCTION CO

19 ATWOOD PL
West Haven

RELIABLE ELECTRIC MOTOR INC

285 MURPHY RD
Hartford

Reliant Electric Company LLC

102 Candlewick Dr
Newington

Remodeling Works LLC

P.O. Box 681
Woodbury

Richard J. Ventura

11 Williams St
Plainville

Ridgeline Electric LLC

193 Great Hill Rd
Portland

Riley Plumbing & Heating

293 New Britain Rd
Kensington

RJ Esposito Electric

65 Frank St
East Haven

Robert Antonucci Electric

1270 Barnes Rd
Wallingford

Scott Electrical Contracting LLC

8 Jefferson Street
Plainville

SDW Property Maintenance, LLC

50 Gillett Street
Hartford

SEARS HARDWARE STORE

852 N COLONY RD
Wallingford

Sibbick Construction

18 School House Rd
Wallingford

Sierra Electric LLC

715 Stafford Rd
Somers

SIGNATURE ELECTRIC SERVICES LLC

11 OLD TOWN RD
Seymour

SLOSS ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING

41 Lancaster Dr
Beacon Falls

SM Welch Remodeling

16 Ogden Lord Road
Marlborough

Small Job Specialist Electric

100 Filbert St
Hamden

STANDBY POWER INC

P.O. Box 422
West Suffield

State-Wide Electric

109 Commerce St
Glastonbury

STONY CREEK WOODWORKING

75 Leete St
West Haven

The Great Handyman

86 Farmington Avenue
Farmington

Thomas Connolly Electrical

19 River Highland Dr
Milford

Tine Dale Electrical Contractors

239 Westerly Ter
Rocky Hill

Titan Electrical Services, LLC

280 Schoolhouse Road
Cheshire

Total Mechanical Systems LLC

140 New Britan Ave
Plainville

TPC Contracting Services, LLC

122 Capewell Ave
Oakville

Trademark Enterprise

Po box 153
Wallingford

TradeWind Irrigation, LLC

50 Budney Rd
Newington

Travis Little Electric

13 Anthony Drive
Bristol

TREADWELL ELECTRIC INC

600 SHERMAN AVE
Hamden

Tri State Generator Co. LLCD

356 Old Maple Ave
North Haven

Trinity Electric Inc.

31
Salvatore Dr

Trusted Construction

79 Noble Avenue
Milford

Trzaski Electrical Service

7 Ave D
Beacon Falls

Tuscany Design Build Inc

37 Kaya Ln
Mansfield Center

TWIN ELECTRIC LLC

91 BUCKINGHAM AVE
Milford

Valerie Spencer Interiors LLC

146 Brewster Rd
West Hartford

VEECO INC

170 Freight St Ste B4
Waterbury

Veteran's Electrical Services

504 Beecher Road
Wolcott

VIKING ELECTRICAL CO INC

193 DAY ST
Newington

VIRZI ELECTRIC

126 NORTH STATE ST
Ansonia

Voltz Electric LLC

6 Overlook Dr
Wallingford

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watts Up Electric LLC

188 Bear Hilll Road
Bethany

Wave Electric

PO Box 324
Harwinton

WEIKERT EGAN CONSTRUCTION

3 Dennis Rd
Old Lyme

Weingast Jeremy

650 Farmington Ave
Hartford

wendt electric

20 west dayton hill rd.
Wallingford

West Shore Electric LLC

3 Skyline Terrace
Seymour

Westbrook Electric

3 Olympic Annex
Stafford Springs

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