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Local Articles in Niwot

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

?

If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation Contractors in Niwot, CO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-derful Roofing and Restoration

9864 W Girton Dr
Denver

A & A ltd

4332 e 115th ave

A Quality Insulation

PO Box 1803
Berthoud

AA Insulation, LLC

6403 W 95th Ave
Westminster

Advanced Exteriors Inc

2200 S. Valley Hwy
Denver

All About You Handyman Services

309 S. Kalispell Way Unit B

All Around Roofing and Exteriors Inc

1150 S Harrison St
Denver

ALL CLEAN RESTORATION SERVICES

P.O. Box 1302
Arvada

All-Pro Renovations

2526 S Halifax St.
Aurora

Allied Roofing

11052 Fairfax Cir
Denver

Allstate Builders And Roofing LLC

9956 W Remington Pl.
Littleton

Altitude Exteriors, LLC

3260 Queen Ct
Broomfield

AMERICAN ROOFING & EXTERIORS

225 Union Blvd
Denver

AMERITECH CONSTRUCTION CO

1325 BROADWAY
Boulder

AMF Remodeling

475 Eldorado Ave
Nederland

Anthony Biddulph Construction

5300 S. Greenwood St
Littleton

Arvada Restoration

7450 W. 52nd Ave. #M Box 200
Arvada

Asbestos Abatement Inc

4750 S Santa Fe Cir Ste 1
Englewood

Assemblies Plus

Broomfield

Atmosphere Mechanical

15693 E. Eldorado dr
Aurora

AWH Construction INC

100 Hemlock Way
Broomfield

Axess Construction

5231 South Sante Fe Drive
Littleton

Baird Construction

5960 S Eaton Ln
Littleton

bcs construction Inc.

12019 east archer pl
Aurora

Bear Paw Construction & Roofing LLC

11011 E. Fair Circle
Englewood

BELFOR Property Restoration

5085 Kalamath St
Denver

BIC Roofing and Painting LLC

1677 Wadsworth Blvd. - Suite D
Lakewood

Big Al's Insulating Inc

3975 E 56Th Ave
Commerce City

Big Blue Roofing, Inc.

8122 Southpark Ln
Littleton

Big Rock Roofing Company

20 S. Havana St.
Aurora

Boulder Valley Builders LLC

841 Ithaca Dr
Boulder

Bradley Construction Services Ltd.

12025 Leyden Street
Brighton

Bradley Construction Solutions

po box 19216
Boulder

BT Carpentry

7390 W Ellsworth Ave
Denver

Bullseye Home Improvements Inc

10191 W 38th Ave
Wheat Ridge

BV Builders

1606 Io Ct
Lafayette

C Property Restoration

15461 E BATAVIA DR
Aurora

CARLOS RESTORATIONS

135 s raleigh st

CARLOS RESTORATIONS

135 S RALIEGH ST
Denver

Casey's Construction, LLC

1418 Clermont St.
Denver

Collegiate Peaks Remodeling

9309 Burgundy Circle

Colorado Choice Construction, LLC

25200 E. 152nd Ave
Brighton

Colorado Home Exterior Inc.

1580 Tellier St.
Lakewood

Colorado Installers

1368 26th Street
Denver

Colorado Insulation Co

9441 Lark Sparrow Dr
Littleton

Colorado Reconstruction Services, Inc

9039 Apache Plume Dr
Parker

Colorado Remodeling Solutions LLC

236 S Marion Pkwy
Denver

Colorado Roofing and Construction

3265 Alkire Way
Golden

Colorado Roofing and Remodeling

1449 W Littleton Blvd
Littleton

Colorado Security Services.org

8139 City View Drive
Denver

Colorado State Contracting LLC

7000 W 120th Ave
Broomfield

COLORADO WINDOW & SIDING INC.

31 E Panama Dr
Centennial

Danny's Handyman Service

7430 Bryant St
Westminster

Delta T Heating and Air Services

3124 S Parker Road
Aurora

DENVER INSULATION, INC.

13101 W. 43RD DR #201
Golden

Dependable Remodeling LLC

2440 S Steele St
Denver

Divine Roofing Inc

2330 East Boulder St
Colorado Springs

Domestic Insulation Company

1905 W Harvard Ave
Cherry Hills Village

DRN Enterprises

5005 South Braun Street
Morrison

E 3 Power

1616 17th Street
Denver

Eco Solution

7770 E Iliff Ave
Denver

EcoGuard Contractors, llc

7493 Hickory Cir
Longmont

Ecosmart Homes Inc

1025 Rosewood Ave
Boulder

EDIS

14607 E Temple Place
Aurora

Energy Smart Builder

3879 E. 120th Ave #111

Environmental Pro Services

7030 E 46th Ave Dr
Denver

Everyday Solutions

707 Partridge Circle
Golden

Excel Roofing Inc

4510 S Federal Blvd
Englewood

Excellence In Building, LLC

5489 Gulfstar Ct
Windsor

Extreme Energy Solutions Inc.

P.O. Box 1462
Eastlake

FacilityLogic - Commercial Building Services

2400 Industrial Lane
Broomfield

FOOTHILLS HEATING & COOLING

9213 W. Capri Ave
Littleton

Freedom Roofing Solutions

7059 Cobalt Ct
Castle Rock

FRONT RANGE LUMBER

1741 S Wadsworth Blvd
Denver

Genesis Total Exteriors

1240 Bergen Parkway
Evergreen

GoGreen Renovation Services, llc

PO Box 6331
Broomfield

Golden Hands Handyman Services

3303 O'Neil Prkw
Boulder

Great Scott's Improvements

7239 S. Iris Ct.
Littleton

Green Home Based Solutions

PO Box 667
Boulder

Green Home Solutions LLC

800 W 9th Ave
Denver

Hagers Construction and Landscaping

9680 Castle Ridge Cir
Littleton

Hammers Construction, Inc.

1411 Woolsey Heights
Colorado Springs

Hard Buck Landscaping and Home Improvements

18657 E. Stroh Rd. Unit 4205
Parker

HGL ENTERPRISES ROOFING

3494 W POWERS AVE
Littleton

HighMark Contracting LLC

PO Box # 473
Brighton

Homesmart From Xcel Energy - Colorado

6981 South Quentin St
Centennial

Honey Do Man

Ivy Street
Denver

Horn Brothers Roofing

2325 S Jason St
Denver

Horn Roofing & Exteriors, LLC

3540 S Poplar St
Denver

HŌM Solutions, Inc.

11220 E. 53rd Ave.
Denver

Insure Fire and Water Resstoration

4880 Ironton St Unit F
Denver

Intelligent Design USA

492 W Burgundy St Unit 1117
Highlands Ranch

Jak-n-Jil Handy Services

P.O. Box 1291
Westminster

JDC Construction

1917 S Newton St
Denver

Jim Black Construction Inc

12279 Pennsylvania St
Thornton

Jonrie Designs, LLC

PO Box 1125
Monument

KBCI

3879 E 120th
Denver

KD Construction LLC

6537 Lamar St.

L&N Contractors, Inc

3719 S. Ensenada St
Aurora

Larsen Handy Works LLC

1182 Camp Eden Rd
Golden

LOWE'S

355 KEN PRATT BLVD
Longmont

Mark Hagemann

827 Atwood St
Longmont

Master Built Construction

7345 W Sand Lake Rd Ste 303

Mato (Commercial)

4850 Lima St
Denver

MaurCo

1251 Olive Street

MBK/Savage Construction

580 Green Ash St Unit A
Highlands Ranch

Melton Design Build

3082 Sterling Cir
Boulder

MeterMatters,inc.

7647 Harlan St.
Arvada

Mile Hi Insulation

2418 W Evans Ave
Denver

Mountain Range Roofing

PO Box 271701
Littleton

National Home Improvement Inc

5944 S Kipling Pkwy
Littleton

Palacios Restoration

1553 Florence St.
Aurora

Paul Reed Restoration, LLC

333 Hampden Ave
Englewood

Peak to Peak Roofing & Exteriors

4155 E Jewell Ave
Denver

Peaks to Plains Construction

964 Mountain View Dr
Castle Rock

Positive Design & Construction

4825 W 34th Ave
Denver

Precision Development Group, LLC

400 N Park Ave 10B 467
Breckenridge

Premier Crawlspace

2630 Fairplay Way
Aurora

Pro Services

9904 bruce lane
Denver

Professional Roofing

5790 Lamar St
Arvada

Progressive Contracting Inc

525 E 70th Ave Unit 3E
Denver

Quade Construction

4427 Clipper Ct
Boulder

Quality Construction

2600 S. Parker Rd
Aurora

R&R WINDOWS & DOORS

4770 Fox Street
Denver

RA BUILDER

6052 UNO ST
Arvada

Red Diamond Restoration, Inc.

6321 N Washington ST
Denver

Red Diamond Roofing

7000 N Broadway
Denver

Residential Energy Xperts

2204 S. Quentin Way
Aurora

Rich Garlock, General Contractor

8857 Prairie Knoll Drive
Longmont

RIS Insulation Supply

5160 Havana Street
Denver

Rocky Mountain Insulation Corporation

2875 S. Raritan St
Englewood

Rodriguez Construction Org., L.L.C.

3043 California Street
Denver

RoofingScience.com

200 S Wilcox St
Castle Rock

Russ Thomas Constructors

9608 E Jefferson Pl
Aurora

Sawtooth Builders, Inc.

P.O. Box 150359
Denver

Semper Fi Home Solutions

12837 Mayfair Way
Englewood

Severe Weather Roofing & Restoration, LLC

3307 South College Avenue
Fort Collins

Skyline Roofing & Exteriors

8300 Fairmount Dr Unit S103
Denver

Skyline Roofing & Solar

10955 Westmoor Drive
Westminster

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southern Colorado Roofing

548 E. Costilla
Colorado Springs

Spectrum Improvements Incorporated

8372 north pioneer trail
Parker

Step-Dust Remodeling

10648 N. Huron St. Ste. 702

Stevens Cleaning & Services

37767 Sable Ridge Rd
Elizabeth

Strait Forward Construction

1196 Union St
Golden

Synflex Insulation

15594 e Batavia dr 3E

Taylor's Home Improvement

1090 Iris St.
Broomfield

Technical Foam

23550 E. 156th Ave
Brighton

The Stahl Roofing Co

1290 E 58th Ave
Denver

TopSide Roofing

20685 E Oxford Pl
Aurora

TotalPropertyCareLLC

461 English Sparrow Dr
Littleton

Velocity Enterprises

4550 7th
Boulder

Wade The Handyman

3095 S Trenton St
Denver

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Welch Precision Remodeling

3606 S. Malta Ct.
Aurora

ZISKA CONSTRUCTION INC

PO Box 1045
Wheat Ridge

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