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F
"The service technician was very punctual and did a great job diagnosing my furnace. Although he did not offer to provide space heaters for the weekend, upon calling" the office to request heaters, I was provided with two. After doing research into the warranty on my unit it turned out that my furnace and the part that broke was covered under an enhanced parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer. The company was very misinformed as to what the warranty covered and refused to provide me service under the enhanced warranty even though their website claims they are a factory authorized dealer. Due to the company's ignorance and complete disregard for customer service or doing the right thing, I was obligated to write this review and inform other potential customers to beware.

-Michael P.

A
"Went great did not have heat in our child's room. came promptly and did some of the best work that I have ever seen (I work with contractors" daily). Attention to detail was most important.Mo, and did were some of the hardest workers and fast that I have seen, never sacrificing quality. A plus roofing and Spartan electric came in to assist and also didn't disappoint with the same quality as AA plumbing. You won't be disappointed.

-Andre B.

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Local Articles in Englewood,

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

Plumber reviews in Englewood,

D

Rating
Tech did not explain anything to me, instead just kept giving these huge quotes. I was supposed to replace toilet valves that were not even broken since the malfunctioning inlet valve-pvr may have damaged them- 4 toilets at $300.00 a pop-who has that kind of money?
I have had several plumbing stuff done through the years and this is my worst experience ...More simply getting a quote. It was a complete waste of my time and money. Will never use them again
- kadiyala R.
A

Rating
They were very responsive, punctual on the day of appointment and the tech did an excellent job. Willing to work with me unanticipated additional work. I would definitely use them again. Excellent experience!
- Daniel M.
A

Rating
It went well. He worked quietly and efficiently and did a great job. Price seemed kind of high but then it is always expensive to have work done for you.
- Scott B.
D

Rating
Not good. First of all he said that Angie's list was a crock and he did not want to use the deal that I had purchased. I purchased the $25.00 for $75.00 worth of work. He talked with his company and he did let me use it but he charge me $215.00. I paid the $25.00 he took off $75.00 . The total cost was $290.00. I think that was way to much just ...More to change out a kitchen faucet. I had to have him change the faucet because he put it on wrong with the on and off lever on the left side. He said whoever put it on was wrong but they were not and he did change it. Then he did not have it tighten down when he went out to write up the bill and the faucet was sideways and I had to ask him to fix it. Do not use this deal. Think he just thought he could get away with it since I am a widow. I am sure Router Rooter have better employees but this one was horrible. If you are in the Gastonia, NC area do NOT use this deal.
- Janice J.
A

Rating
I called Roto Rooter at 4:55pm, the 9th plumber in the area I tried. They were the first to actually answer the phone, and even better, they said they could have a plumber to my house within 2 hours. Even better, they called back in 5 minutes and said someone would be at my house within 30 minutes. Hard to beat that!
...More Green was the name of the plumber who actually came. He was fast, professional, polite, and knowledgeable. Fixed two problems in no time at all. Strongly recommend.
- Timothy E.
A

Rating
Great. Arrived within an hour of initial call and drove off within a 1/2 hr after arriving (with job completed).
- Ian E.
D

Rating
We called when we noticed sewage leaking into our basement on a Saturday in mid-August. Ended up scheduling a plumber to come the following week. While I admit our job was somewhat challenging-- there's no access point to our sewer line from our basement, so they had to go in via our catch basin to clear the line as a quick ...More fix. They cemented over a hole in our basement leading to the sewer where the leak was occurring. They said they'd get back to us with an estimate on a more comprehensive fix-- which included digging up our basement floor and adding an access point.
Months went by and we never heard from them. I called back in late October, and their office couldn't find any record of our job. Eventually, the office had the plumber who came to our house, who said he needed to come back with a camera to assess damage in the sewer line before he could give us an estimate. I was leaving on vacation, so I arranged for a friend to meet the plumber so they could camera in and provide an estimate. They showed up, looked around, and did not use camera or provide any written estimate.
After two visits with no estimate and no fix, I've given up on -- another plumber came out tonight and was able to assess the situation and provide an estimate on the spot, able to complete work by the end of this week. I'll take that over waiting another month and chasing down for a job they clearly must not want.
- Margaret S.
A

Rating
My niece had water standing beside the house and had called several plumber out to find and fix. They gave several quotes and guess too the problem. I was visiting and dug it up and found the problem. Called several plumber and all were booked up. Called 's at 5pm and the lady that answered was very pleasant. I asked ...More if it could be repaired tonight. She said wait a moment and very shortly came back that someone could be there between 5:30 and 6:30pm and I said that would be great. called a little before 5:30 that was running a little late. He was here before 6 and done before 7. He took a $100 off for having it already dug out. My niece was so please, she told she had other work to be do and other people in her office were needing plumbing work and ask for his cards to take to work. He was very knowledgeable and already had the parts needed on his van. He was very pleasant.
- Charles N.

Plumbers in Englewood,, CO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$99 Rooter LLC

1694 W Hamilton Pl
Englewood

A La carte Design

6364 S Hanover Ct
Englewood

A Mile Hi Sewer And Drain Cleaning Co. LLC

4655 South Julian St
Englewood

A Perfect Plumber LLC

4719 S Santa Fe Cir Ste 4
Englewood

Aaron Kramer Plumbing

3778 Willow Creek Dr.

ABSOLUTELY OK PLUMBING LLC

1110 W CHENANGO AVE
Englewood

Afford-A-Rooter

8120 Sheridan Blvd.
Westminster

All Around Home Care

1832 NW 7th Ave

All Star Plumbing and Heating

9867 E Peakveiw ave
Englewood

All-Star Construction

7440 S Blackhawk St
Englewood

Allstate Plumbing, Inc.

P.O. Box 461251
Denver

ARS / Rescue Rooter Colorado - 8153

15750 Centretech Cir
Aurora

At Your Service Plumbing Company

12081 W Alameda Pkwy
Denver

Babes Plumbing Inc

105 Bluegrass Ct

Bath Fitter

1500 W Hampden Ave
Englewood

Bergau Plumbing

865 SE 47th St

bernards plumbing llc

8685 east easter avenue
Englewood

Bill Smith Plumbing & Heating Inc

4101 S Broadway
Englewood

Bill The Plumber

6020 F Deacon Rd

Blue Sky Plumbing & Heating

4765 Independence Street
Wheat Ridge

Brian Bowersox Inc.

4700 Avanti Cir

Bruin Construction Inc

6170 S Monaco Way
Englewood

Bruno Air Conditioning

28731 South Cargo Ct

Budget Right Handyman

1000 N Taylor Ave

BUILT-WELL BUILDERS, LLC

WASHINGTON TOWNSHIP

Certified Plumbing Co Inc

6073 S Lamar Drive
Littleton

CHRISTOPHERS PLUMBING INC

2765 W HAMPDEN AVE
Englewood

CITRUS PLUMBING

125 CORPORATION WAY

Coastal Living Remodelers

2305 N. Tamiami Tr

Colorado Environmental Resources

6428 s Quebec St
Englewood

Colorado Home Finishers

8310 S Valley Hwy
Englewood

COLORADO PLUMBING & GAS LINES

3246 S Platte River Dr
Englewood

Colorado Plumbing Solutions

3219 W Hampden Ave
Englewood

Condon Contracting

18800 E Clarke Rd
Parker

Cool Energy Plumbing Today

6143 Clark Center Ave

Cooper Heating and Cooling

11780 Colmans Way
Broomfield

Country Wide ProServ

2017 Humble Hollow Pl

Cronen Plumbing and Heating

4767 S Broadway
Englewood

Dean's Sprinkler Service & Landscaping

1980 W. Quincy Ave
Englewood

Delgado's Remodeling & Handyman Services

10069 E Peakview Ave
Englewood

Denver Drains & Plumbing

3531 South Logan St.
Englewood

Double Diamond Plumbing

979 22 Rd
Grand Junction

Dowling Fuel Company

100 Industrial Ave

Finest Home Designs LLC

215 Richmond Ave.

Flooring & Beyond

69 W. Floyd Ave
Englewood

Fosters Home Improvement LLC

148 W Consolidated RD

Garvin's Sewer Service

2900 S Shoshone St
Englewood

Gates Contracting Inc

6551 S Revere Pkwy
Englewood

GREG BLACK

PO 5276
Englewood

Gregory Mclean

1795 Needmore Rd

H&S Plumbing Inc

5590 W Kessler Cowlesville Rd

HALVERSON HOME REPAIR

3650 S FEDERAL BLVD
Englewood

Handyman Matters and Remodeling Colorado Springs

487 Windchime Place
Colorado Springs

Handyman Matters Centennial

4901 E. Dry Creek Rd.
Littleton

Handyman NJ

16B Townley Rd.

HANNERS HANDYMAN & HOME REPAIR

3523 S DOWNING
Englewood

HLM Construction Inc

1515 Keyway Rd

J & M Custom Construction Inc

132 New Burlington Rd

J.J. LAY CO INC

4320 S BROADWAY
Englewood

JC Little Plumbing Inc

3146 Commerce Pkwy

JD's Plumbing Service Inc.

1446 W 101st Pl
Northglenn

Jerry Lemoine

9203 Calumet Blvd

JPS MARBLE AND GRANITE

1615 ROBIN CIRCLE

KC Services LLC

266 Skyview Dr

Kevin's Kwality Appliance

5619 Allison St.
Arvada

Kinetico Water Systems of SWFL

28190 Old 41 Suite 101

L & D Plumbing & Heating

178 Bergenline Ave

L & R Services

2950 Ingalls St
Denver

Liberty Heating & Air Conditioning

14 Inverness Drive East B-132
Englewood

Logan Master Appliance

2205 S Smithville Rd

LOWE'S

9100 E PEAKVIEW AVE
Englewood

M T S PLUMBING LLC

8062 E BRIARWOOD BLVD
Englewood

Magic Garage Cleaners

91 Cobbler Square

McLean Plumbing

1795 Needmore Rd

MEL MINNICK

4565 S PEARL ST
Englewood

Mike Douglass Plumbing

517 Paul Morris Dr

MILLION AIR MECHANICAL INC

4892 Van Gordon St
Wheat Ridge

MNT Roofing & Siding

238 Union BLVD

Moscone Plumbing

50 W Railroad Ave

Mountain View Handyman Services LLC

8229 E State Hwy 86
Franktown

Mr C's Plumbing

134 S Raleigh St
Denver

Mr. Honeydo, LLC

2357 S Tamiami Trail

Narrow Path Plumbing

3198 Old Winchester Trl

NJ Kitchens & Baths

513 W Mount Pleasant Ave

O'CONNOR PLUMBING LLC

10500 W 80TH AVENUE
Arvada

P.S.C. Construction, Inc.

3275 West Layton Avenue
Englewood

paisan plumbing

3580 s downing st
Englewood

Parker Builders Inc.

8205 S. Krameria Way
Englewood

Parker Heating and Air

18436 Longs Way
Parker

Petro Home Services

40 Cragwood Rd

Petro Home Services

30 Old Dock Rd

Plumbline Services Inc

7000 S Potomac St Unit Main
Englewood

Preferred Plumbing Inc

3299 Santa Anita Dr
Englewood

Premier Building Services

3783 S Hazel Ct
Englewood

Quality West Heating & Cooling

PO Box 271767
Littleton

Quicktime Plumbing and Drain Cleaning LLC

5039 S. Federal Blvd. #7
Englewood

R Giles & Company LLC

4960 S Elati St
Englewood

Residential Services

6158 Turnbury Park Drive

Rick Freeman

191 University Blvd
Denver

Saxton Construction

1475 S Jersey Way
Denver

Schwartz Plumbing

5555 S Lansing Ct
Englewood

Semper Fi Home Solutions

12837 Mayfair Way
Englewood

SERVPRO of Aurora

7325 S Revere Pkwy Ste 503
Englewood

SURE DRAIN SERVICES

6920 S Jordan Road
Centennial

The Fix it Guys

PO Box 1488
Palmer Lake

The Gas Connection, Inc.

11975 Colmans Way
Broomfield

The Home Depot

7509 Woodhaven Blvd

The Surfin Plumbers

5224 17th St Ct E

Thomas GC Group LLC

427 Fort Lee Rd

Tiger Plumbing Inc

10352 Upper Lewisburg Rd

TONY CAPRA PLUMBING

6750 S EMPORIA
Englewood

Unique Air Inc

4515 19th St. Ct East

VACANT INTERIORS

566 NUCLA WY
Aurora

Wade The Handyman

3095 S Trenton St
Denver

Water Works

20 Booker St.

Weather Tite Windows

2119 W Columbus Dr

Western Maintenance & Construction

2911 S Umatilla St
Englewood

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