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"I hired to assess the requirements to fix a poorly built column structure in my livingroom. I was told previously the structure was load" bearing and with it showing signs of failure I was concerned my ceiling would come down. inspected the roof structure in the attic and the column structure in the living room and found that it was not load bearing - just poorly built. His assessment has saved me a lot of time and money. I would definitely use his services again should the need arise in the future.

-Lauren H.

" , the Structural Engineer with , came out to my house to assess a small crack that had developed in a foundation" wall. He was very thorough, and explained the results of his assessment completely and in language that a could understand. He was also willing to answer all questions that I had. Fortunately, the crack turned out to be the result of minor settlement and did not require remedial action. But I felt better about proceeding with the other major work we planned in our house based on his experienced assessment of our situation. I would definitely recommend for any structural engineering assessments that a homeowner might need.

-Tim G.

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Local Articles in Vallejo

Unfinished basement with cracks

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

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Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depends on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing frame damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

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Trees that soak up a lot of water can dry out the soil around your home, causing foundation damage.

Angie's Answers


This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


There is NO such thing as an average cost !


You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .


 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .


The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.


 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !


Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.


You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.


While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.


If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.


Good luck!


Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.


Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).

Structural Engineering reviews in Vallejo


I am in the planning and budgeting phase of a home remodeling project that includes complete kitchen renovation. I called for an assessment of the house structure to establish my options for wall removal. promptly responded to my initial contact and an appointment was quickly scheduled. ...More arrived on time and prepared. He is a friendly, knowledgeable engineer who took the time to investigate all of my concerns. He made recommendations regarding the remodel and evaluated the overall structure of the house. He was thorough and straightforward. As a result of his inspection, I was reassured that a bearing wall could be removed and gave me a fair price for the installation of the new beam. The inspection was yesterday, so I haven't received my report, yet, but I am very pleased with the service that provided. I will be calling on to perform the structural modification when I'm ready to begin the project. I recommend to anyone needing a structural assessment of their home.
- Susan S.

The Engineer was prompt and pleasant he arrived on April 6, 2015. I showed the engineer around the house and expressed my concerns for cracks in my foundation and interior walls. He told me to stop focusing on the cracks, because I will drive myself crazy. The engineer told me that the cracks were from settling. My house is almost 100 years old. ...More We stood out on my back patio and looked at the unobstructed view of the city and talked for about 20 minutes.
My report stated, " cracks that have appeared in the wood trim and the plaster are likely due to typical house wear." I showed him the recently repaired box gutters. I found out after the engineer's inspection that the box gutters were fixed improperly and that drip should not be nailed to the gutters in that manner. The cracks on the interior of the house are from water damage and shifting.
In my report,"the concrete walkway in the front seems to be sliding along a slight slope on the left side of the home, which seems to be due to poor construction." My sidewalk is shifting to the left because my large retaining wall has bowed and is pulling everything to the left, including my house. Also, I showed the engineer that one of the fence post directly in front of the retaining wall had sunk approximately 6 inches very abruptly. The engineer never examined my large retaining wall that my house sits on top of and very close too. I had wall companies out to look at my retaining wall to find out the retaining wall is bowing and causing the house to shift to the left. No mention in my report to have a wall specialist inspect the wall.
I showed the engineer how my interior steps from the basement to the first floor are separating, he told me "that it was probably like that and I just noticed the separation because I am looking for things". The stairs have separated enough that I have to have the stairs rebuilt.
In my report it did not mention having a plumber out to look at my main sewer drains to make sure there were no issues with the main lines. After I received this report, I started googling what causes basements to shift and this is a common problem broken main sewer lines. My main sewer lines from the back of my house to the front needed replaced because they are 100 years old cracked and leaking.
Since this report was compiled, I have spent $17,000 on my basement, because I did not believe my house was just settling. I have to replace my $40,000 retaining wall, so that, my house does not slide over the hill. I am getting an interior french drain installed in order to relieve the hydrostatic pressure under my house and dry up my very wet basement whenever it rains.
In my report,' client could apply sealant to the existing foundation walls to prevent seeping water." I have a limestone foundation so waterproofing cannot be applied to the interior walls to prevent seeping.
After all of the dust had settled, I originally contacted the company on October 21, the individual answering the phone said the owner would give me a call back on Friday October 23. I did not hear from the owner, so I called again on Monday October 26 and talked with Holly. She said to send her an email with my concerns. I never received a reply that she received my email. I had to call again Friday November 6 and when Holly answered she said, " Oh it's you is handling this."
was pleasant on the phone and we set up a phone meeting time which worked for , the engineer, and myself.
During the call, I expressed my concerns (with more agitation than I expected) that the report I received did not give me any suggestions to follow up with plumber, foundation company, or wall expert. My report was very superficial with recommendations that included only the following: continue to monitor wood trim and plaster cracks; foundation walls seem to be in excellent condition; repoint exterior masonry in the rear of the property; concrete walk should be demoed and reconstructed, if owner seems fit. General recommendation: The structure seems to be in good structural standing and requires only some minor repairs to ensure future damage. I don't think that $17,000 in the basement and $40,000 for a retaining wall are minor repairs. said that they only provide visual reports and don't have time to go into great detail. (I guess the engineer should have spent more time looking at my failing wall and drainage system and not looking at my city view).
said the report stated to continue to monitor the property, but in reality it states to monitor wood trim and plaster cracks. My report mentions nothing of monitoring my foundation. The report gives no suggestions on what to consider if I am still experiencing shifting or cracking.
During the phone call the engineer said that he did not want to alarm me with suggestions and potential problems. Why do they think I requested a structural engineer? I wanted suggestions and possible causes. Why do you think I paid for a structural engineer report?
The phone conversation went nowhere and I was not a happy camper during this call. Nothing was settled and only kept asking why I waited 7 months to contact his company. The reason because my structural engineer report said, " the structure seems to be in good structural standing and requires on some minor repairs to ensure future damage." In that seven months, I had my box gutter relined for the second time, my basement sewer pipes replaced, I am getting ready to install an internal french drain, and plans for a new retaining wall. I work one job and have my own small business which requires me to travel, so unfortunately seven months flies by. I don't have weekdays and weekends for business to inspect my house. I actually have to wait for my vacation to have these companies give me their suggestions and quotes. I had a private inspector look over my house and give me his suggestions on what needs done and what he recommends. (Hmmmm.....sort of sounds like what I wanted from the structural engineer report.)
I ended up hanging up on , because our conversation was going nowhere. I had enough of him telling that his structural engineer report suggested that I continue to monitor when the structural engineer who inspected my property told me not to focus on the cracks, because I would drive myself crazy. Good thing that I did not listen to his suggestion or my house without these expensive fixes could be over the hill in a year.
So, for $550 I followed their only advice and had masonry work on some of the cracks. The total for that work $500 and those cracks were so obvious that I did not need two pieces of useless paper and a $550 charge to realize this work needed completed.
One funny note, whenever my new retaining wall is designed and reconstructed it is a structural engineer who is spearheading the project and providing the specs.....hopefully, not from this company.

- Erin O.

Although 's business is based in , he is often in the Asheville area. He was available to do the structural inspection on short notice and for much less than others in the area.
There was an unusual concrete support in the basement of the house, so unusual that my home inspector, a seasoned ...More professional, said he had never seen anything like it. He recommended I get a structural engineer to look at it. looked at the structure, figured out its purpose, and then did a thorough inspection of the entire house. He gave me detailed suggestions on how to deal with some issues and how to prevent others from starting.
was very professional, obviously extremely knowledgeable, and I would recommend him to anyone needing a structural engineer.
Ioncon also designs and builds homes and other buildings using green techniques, including shipping container houses. If I ever decide to build a home, based on my experience with , I'd call them first.
- Joanne K.

He was punctual, professional and thorough. He gave me his findings verbally before he left and I had the written report within just a few days. He recommended remediation of the improperly placed and inadequate supports that had been placed under the house long ago. I needed quite a few new supports. Having this report made the process of getting ...More estimates from foundation/leveling companies go very smoothly and I felt more secure that I was not being told I needed things that weren't necessary. The $400 fee for the report was well worth it to me and I feel that I will be saving more than that in repair fees.
- Sammie W.

Green performed a very comprehensive inspection of our home, providing in depth analysis of structural issues that may be present with our foundation. I have minor cracks in just a couple of areas and desired an unbiased opinion of any work that may be necessary. took the time to review his analysis and ...More actually saved us quite a bit of money as there are not any structural issues of significance, at this time, with our home. is thorough and provides an honest opinion following his inspection.
- walter and barbara G.

I had a hard time finding structural engineers that did residential job like this. was referred to me by a larger engineering company. It worked well. He provided us with what we needed on time and at a price that was in line with any kind of professional consult.
- Steven B.

I paid Angie’s List on 6/12/2015 for a special on an evaluation of my house by a structural engineer, Schimnowski of Criterium, in the event. I contacted him not so long after, but summers being what they sometimes are, I didn’t ask for his services until late August or early September, when he was prompt to perform ...More the Visual Structural Inspection, which involved going over my house from top to bottom, inside and out. The house has two stories, substantial attic, basement. After the inspection, talked with me about what he had found, and on September 11 he submitted a very detailed report including photos of various features (some in need of repair) that he was reporting on. I learned a lot about my house—which was 100 this year—that I hadn’t known before, notwithstanding that I have lived in it for 47 years. He also called things to my attention that I had been aware of at one time but forgotten about. I found easy to work with and totally dependable, and the inspection and report were well worth what I paid for them and more.

- TOM C.

tWent very well. The company responded to my request for an appointment promptly. We set up a mutually agreed upon time and date. was our guy. Very polite and knowledgeable. Did a full maintenance. Told me about some preventive things to do, like get a new back up battery pack since we weren't sure how old ours was. Told ...More me about some valve thing that was going to fail in the future since its original to the elevator but didn't need to be replaced right now, but that we could if we wanted to preventively, and the estimated cost. What to look out for and when to call them in for it. Answered all my questions. Very tidy (even vacuumed under the elevator for me!) Went above and beyond the call of duty. As far as I can tell, the job done was very good and thorough. I would highly recommend them.
- Sandra J.

Structural Engineers in Vallejo, CA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Adriatic Builders

2636 Gold Trl

Aetypic Architects + Engineers

7 Freelon St
San Francisco

AGCI, inc

336 Bon Air Center # 104

Alward Construction

1035 Carleton St

AMS Engineering

1566 Bailey RD


San Francisco

ATF Fabrications

N. Vasco Road

B Line Construction Inc

430 Lea Way


427 San Pablo Ave

BB&B Builders Inc.

44 Indian Rock ct.
San Anselmo

BD Design Development, Inc.

282 Beverly Street
San Francisco

Beckmann Engineering

49 Chamberlain Ave

Belcan Architects and Engineers

480 Lytton Ave
Palo Alto

BEST Audio And Video Innovations

2011 Shellback Pl
San Jose


38830 Bell St

Buhler Construction Company

3614 16th St. #1
San Francisco

central cal construction

1150 winchester blvd

Cerletti & Kennedy Design-Build

2950 Buskirk Ave
Walnut Creek


Los Gatos


333 Bush St Apt 4202
San Francisco

David Juday, Structural Engineer

397 Rose Avenue
Mill Valley



Detail Construction

117 South Street

Distrowire LLC

5900 3rd st unit 2217

Documenta Surveys

1645 Rainier Avenue







Geissler Engineering

235 Montgomery Street, Ste 1011
San Francisco

GeoTrinity Consultants, Inc.

7770 Pardee Lane, Suite 101

GoodFellas Construction

4924 Balboa Blvd


58 Paul Dr Ste H
San Rafael

Griffin and Sons Construction, Inc.

P.O. Box 620864

HC Structural Engineering Inc

235 Westlake Center #209
Daly City

HCG Associates, Inc.

1 Embarcadero Center
San Francisco


894 35TH AVE
San Francisco

HMJ Seismic

Po Box 330368
San Francisco

Hogan Land Services

1702 4th Street
Santa Rosa

iBuild Construction

2765 Hunter st.
Palo Alto

Ienga of Orange County

1665 E 4Th St
Santa Ana


Santa Cruz

KRB Construction

707 Continental Circle

L.E. Baca Construction

35120 Buckingham Court



Lea and Braze Engineering

2495 Industrial Pkwy W


8494 Lone Tree Way

Leptien Cronin Cooper Morris & Poore

930 Estudillo St

M&M Construction & Home Design

1647 Willow Pass Rd

Makita Engineering

80 Christopher Ave

Markison Pierce Company

PO Box 1064

Michael Heacock Architect

203 E. Blithedale Ave., Suite E
Mill Valley

Mulhall Construction

1278 25th Avenue #2
San Francisco

Nationwide Secure inc.

3215 Calhoun Ct

Ned Clyde Construction Inc

159 Mason Cir

nugent constructors inc

721 Old Creek Road

Ost Engineering, Inc.

747 Mendocino Avenue
Santa Rosa


San Francisco



Plateau Building Group Inc

523 Irving Ave
San Jose


San Francisco


1665 E 4th St
Santa Ana

Rafferty Engineering

2842 Jackson St

Reid Construction & Maintenance

1735 Enterprise Dr


PO Box 505



RPM Contractors

2510 Carlmont Dr.

RWR Construction, Inc

200 Gary Place
San Rafael

Ryan & Ryan Construction Inc

80 Tanforan Ave
South San Francisco


546 Market Street
San Francisco

SFA Design Group

1813 Rutan Drive, Unit C

Shaz Construction & Design

PO Box 1083

Sky Renovation

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

Smart Remodeling and Design Inc

1501 19th Ave
San Francisco

SOD Builders Inc

800 West El Camino Real
Mountain View


Redwood City

Solid Build Construction Inc

956 San Pablo Ave




365 Reed Street
Santa Clara

Strong Hold Masonry and Concrete

555 Rancho Caballo
Santa Rosa


2455 Bennett Valley Rd, Ste B119
Santa Rosa


2420 Sand Creek Road C1-260

Turbin Design Associates Inc.

3030 Bridgeway Suite 405

TW Designers

39172 State St.




PO BOX 5923



Wilkinson Design & Construction Inc.

46 Greenfield Dr
San Anselmo

Wilkinson Design+Construction Inc.

72 Clayton Street
San Rafael





yes welding

183 Ryland st suite C

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