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"I hired to assess the requirements to fix a poorly built column structure in my livingroom. I was told previously the structure was load" bearing and with it showing signs of failure I was concerned my ceiling would come down. inspected the roof structure in the attic and the column structure in the living room and found that it was not load bearing - just poorly built. His assessment has saved me a lot of time and money. I would definitely use his services again should the need arise in the future.

-Lauren H.

" , the Structural Engineer with , came out to my house to assess a small crack that had developed in a foundation" wall. He was very thorough, and explained the results of his assessment completely and in language that a could understand. He was also willing to answer all questions that I had. Fortunately, the crack turned out to be the result of minor settlement and did not require remedial action. But I felt better about proceeding with the other major work we planned in our house based on his experienced assessment of our situation. I would definitely recommend for any structural engineering assessments that a homeowner might need.

-Tim G.

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Local Articles in San Fernando

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Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

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Trees that soak up a lot of water can dry out the soil around your home, causing foundation damage.

Angie's Answers


This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


There is NO such thing as an average cost !


You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .


 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .


The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.


 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !


Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.


You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.


While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.


If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.


Good luck!


Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.


Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).

Structural Engineering reviews in San Fernando


I am in the planning and budgeting phase of a home remodeling project that includes complete kitchen renovation. I called for an assessment of the house structure to establish my options for wall removal. promptly responded to my initial contact and an appointment was quickly scheduled. ...More arrived on time and prepared. He is a friendly, knowledgeable engineer who took the time to investigate all of my concerns. He made recommendations regarding the remodel and evaluated the overall structure of the house. He was thorough and straightforward. As a result of his inspection, I was reassured that a bearing wall could be removed and gave me a fair price for the installation of the new beam. The inspection was yesterday, so I haven't received my report, yet, but I am very pleased with the service that provided. I will be calling on to perform the structural modification when I'm ready to begin the project. I recommend to anyone needing a structural assessment of their home.
- Susan S.

The Engineer was prompt and pleasant he arrived on April 6, 2015. I showed the engineer around the house and expressed my concerns for cracks in my foundation and interior walls. He told me to stop focusing on the cracks, because I will drive myself crazy. The engineer told me that the cracks were from settling. My house is almost 100 years old. ...More We stood out on my back patio and looked at the unobstructed view of the city and talked for about 20 minutes.
My report stated, " cracks that have appeared in the wood trim and the plaster are likely due to typical house wear." I showed him the recently repaired box gutters. I found out after the engineer's inspection that the box gutters were fixed improperly and that drip should not be nailed to the gutters in that manner. The cracks on the interior of the house are from water damage and shifting.
In my report,"the concrete walkway in the front seems to be sliding along a slight slope on the left side of the home, which seems to be due to poor construction." My sidewalk is shifting to the left because my large retaining wall has bowed and is pulling everything to the left, including my house. Also, I showed the engineer that one of the fence post directly in front of the retaining wall had sunk approximately 6 inches very abruptly. The engineer never examined my large retaining wall that my house sits on top of and very close too. I had wall companies out to look at my retaining wall to find out the retaining wall is bowing and causing the house to shift to the left. No mention in my report to have a wall specialist inspect the wall.
I showed the engineer how my interior steps from the basement to the first floor are separating, he told me "that it was probably like that and I just noticed the separation because I am looking for things". The stairs have separated enough that I have to have the stairs rebuilt.
In my report it did not mention having a plumber out to look at my main sewer drains to make sure there were no issues with the main lines. After I received this report, I started googling what causes basements to shift and this is a common problem broken main sewer lines. My main sewer lines from the back of my house to the front needed replaced because they are 100 years old cracked and leaking.
Since this report was compiled, I have spent $17,000 on my basement, because I did not believe my house was just settling. I have to replace my $40,000 retaining wall, so that, my house does not slide over the hill. I am getting an interior french drain installed in order to relieve the hydrostatic pressure under my house and dry up my very wet basement whenever it rains.
In my report,' client could apply sealant to the existing foundation walls to prevent seeping water." I have a limestone foundation so waterproofing cannot be applied to the interior walls to prevent seeping.
After all of the dust had settled, I originally contacted the company on October 21, the individual answering the phone said the owner would give me a call back on Friday October 23. I did not hear from the owner, so I called again on Monday October 26 and talked with Holly. She said to send her an email with my concerns. I never received a reply that she received my email. I had to call again Friday November 6 and when Holly answered she said, " Oh it's you is handling this."
was pleasant on the phone and we set up a phone meeting time which worked for , the engineer, and myself.
During the call, I expressed my concerns (with more agitation than I expected) that the report I received did not give me any suggestions to follow up with plumber, foundation company, or wall expert. My report was very superficial with recommendations that included only the following: continue to monitor wood trim and plaster cracks; foundation walls seem to be in excellent condition; repoint exterior masonry in the rear of the property; concrete walk should be demoed and reconstructed, if owner seems fit. General recommendation: The structure seems to be in good structural standing and requires only some minor repairs to ensure future damage. I don't think that $17,000 in the basement and $40,000 for a retaining wall are minor repairs. said that they only provide visual reports and don't have time to go into great detail. (I guess the engineer should have spent more time looking at my failing wall and drainage system and not looking at my city view).
said the report stated to continue to monitor the property, but in reality it states to monitor wood trim and plaster cracks. My report mentions nothing of monitoring my foundation. The report gives no suggestions on what to consider if I am still experiencing shifting or cracking.
During the phone call the engineer said that he did not want to alarm me with suggestions and potential problems. Why do they think I requested a structural engineer? I wanted suggestions and possible causes. Why do you think I paid for a structural engineer report?
The phone conversation went nowhere and I was not a happy camper during this call. Nothing was settled and only kept asking why I waited 7 months to contact his company. The reason because my structural engineer report said, " the structure seems to be in good structural standing and requires on some minor repairs to ensure future damage." In that seven months, I had my box gutter relined for the second time, my basement sewer pipes replaced, I am getting ready to install an internal french drain, and plans for a new retaining wall. I work one job and have my own small business which requires me to travel, so unfortunately seven months flies by. I don't have weekdays and weekends for business to inspect my house. I actually have to wait for my vacation to have these companies give me their suggestions and quotes. I had a private inspector look over my house and give me his suggestions on what needs done and what he recommends. (Hmmmm.....sort of sounds like what I wanted from the structural engineer report.)
I ended up hanging up on , because our conversation was going nowhere. I had enough of him telling that his structural engineer report suggested that I continue to monitor when the structural engineer who inspected my property told me not to focus on the cracks, because I would drive myself crazy. Good thing that I did not listen to his suggestion or my house without these expensive fixes could be over the hill in a year.
So, for $550 I followed their only advice and had masonry work on some of the cracks. The total for that work $500 and those cracks were so obvious that I did not need two pieces of useless paper and a $550 charge to realize this work needed completed.
One funny note, whenever my new retaining wall is designed and reconstructed it is a structural engineer who is spearheading the project and providing the specs.....hopefully, not from this company.

- Erin O.

Although 's business is based in , he is often in the Asheville area. He was available to do the structural inspection on short notice and for much less than others in the area.
There was an unusual concrete support in the basement of the house, so unusual that my home inspector, a seasoned ...More professional, said he had never seen anything like it. He recommended I get a structural engineer to look at it. looked at the structure, figured out its purpose, and then did a thorough inspection of the entire house. He gave me detailed suggestions on how to deal with some issues and how to prevent others from starting.
was very professional, obviously extremely knowledgeable, and I would recommend him to anyone needing a structural engineer.
Ioncon also designs and builds homes and other buildings using green techniques, including shipping container houses. If I ever decide to build a home, based on my experience with , I'd call them first.
- Joanne K.

He was punctual, professional and thorough. He gave me his findings verbally before he left and I had the written report within just a few days. He recommended remediation of the improperly placed and inadequate supports that had been placed under the house long ago. I needed quite a few new supports. Having this report made the process of getting ...More estimates from foundation/leveling companies go very smoothly and I felt more secure that I was not being told I needed things that weren't necessary. The $400 fee for the report was well worth it to me and I feel that I will be saving more than that in repair fees.
- Sammie W.

Green performed a very comprehensive inspection of our home, providing in depth analysis of structural issues that may be present with our foundation. I have minor cracks in just a couple of areas and desired an unbiased opinion of any work that may be necessary. took the time to review his analysis and ...More actually saved us quite a bit of money as there are not any structural issues of significance, at this time, with our home. is thorough and provides an honest opinion following his inspection.
- walter and barbara G.

I had a hard time finding structural engineers that did residential job like this. was referred to me by a larger engineering company. It worked well. He provided us with what we needed on time and at a price that was in line with any kind of professional consult.
- Steven B.

I paid Angie’s List on 6/12/2015 for a special on an evaluation of my house by a structural engineer, Schimnowski of Criterium, in the event. I contacted him not so long after, but summers being what they sometimes are, I didn’t ask for his services until late August or early September, when he was prompt to perform ...More the Visual Structural Inspection, which involved going over my house from top to bottom, inside and out. The house has two stories, substantial attic, basement. After the inspection, talked with me about what he had found, and on September 11 he submitted a very detailed report including photos of various features (some in need of repair) that he was reporting on. I learned a lot about my house—which was 100 this year—that I hadn’t known before, notwithstanding that I have lived in it for 47 years. He also called things to my attention that I had been aware of at one time but forgotten about. I found easy to work with and totally dependable, and the inspection and report were well worth what I paid for them and more.

- TOM C.

tWent very well. The company responded to my request for an appointment promptly. We set up a mutually agreed upon time and date. was our guy. Very polite and knowledgeable. Did a full maintenance. Told me about some preventive things to do, like get a new back up battery pack since we weren't sure how old ours was. Told ...More me about some valve thing that was going to fail in the future since its original to the elevator but didn't need to be replaced right now, but that we could if we wanted to preventively, and the estimated cost. What to look out for and when to call them in for it. Answered all my questions. Very tidy (even vacuumed under the elevator for me!) Went above and beyond the call of duty. As far as I can tell, the job done was very good and thorough. I would highly recommend them.
- Sandra J.

Structural Engineers in San Fernando, CA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

'SEAN Design

P.O. Box 9544
Newport Beach

7 Construction, Inc

6819 Sepulveda Blvd Ste 204
Van Nuys

A Plus Design & Remodeling

14532 Friar St.
Van Nuys


Woodland Hills

A-Best Remodeling

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

A-Industrial Design-Build

1401 S Santa Fe Ave
Los Angeles

A.R.C. & Associates, Inc.

17301 Labrador St



Ace & Sons Construction, Inc.

1710 Palmyrita Ave, Ste #5


11919 Burke Street
Santa Fe Springs

Adobe Builders

15300 Ventura Blvd Ste 203
Sherman Oaks


1600 Dove St Ste 460
Newport Beach

Aeroscopic Environmental Inc

1833 Dana Street

AGA Construction Inc

18375 Ventura Blvd

AGS Innovation

7662 Genesta Ave.

All City Construction

18620 Hatteras St Unit 212

All City Remodeling

6501 Vanalden Ave. #5

All Star Home Improvement

12500 Riverside Dr
Valley Village

All Trade Engineering & Design

17 E High St

Alpha Structural, Inc.

1638 Colorado Blvd
Los Angeles

AMA Construction Incorporated

5522 Via Marisol
Los Angeles




Yorba Linda

American Quality Builders

6773 Aviano Dr

AmeriPacific Construction Service

750 S. Lincoln Ave

Anchorstrong Construction, Inc.

4244 Duquesne Ave
Culver City

Arcaccucon Construction

3624 Foothill Blvd
La Crescenta


26772 Vista Terrace
Lake Forest


6143 West Greentree Drive

ARI Design

7136 Haskell #215

Ari Development

1401 S Main St
Los Angeles

Arrow Truss Co.

1400 E. Arrow Hwy

Artbox Construction

6880 Beck Ave
North Hollywood

As-Built CAD Floorplans

2939 Matilija Canyon Rd.

ASAP Contractors

388 E Ocean Blvd
Long Beach

Assura Public Relations

335 N Brookhurst St

Avila Structural Engineering, Inc.

199 E Thousand Oaks Blvd
Thousand Oaks

AVN Engineering

19528 Ventura Blvd.

B & R Construction Inc

6015 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles

B&S Construction

Los Angeles

B.H Construction Co.

9701 W. Pico Blvd
Los Angeles

B2B Design / Build

6302 Whittier Ave.

Banducci Builders

4715 Katherine Ave
Sherman Oaks

Barani Construction Co

3093 Milestone Ave.
Simi Valley

Bearing Engineers, Inc.

27 Argonaut
Aliso Viejo

Berg Construction

803 Santa Rosita
Solana Beach

Biayna Corp., Engineering & Consulting

10233 Johanna Ave
Shadow Hills

Boonstra Construction, Inc.

3720 Oceanic Way

BR Engineering Design & Construction

14862 Moran St., #B

Bravo Tech

11943 Vanowen st 111
North Hollywood

Bright Green Contracting

464 Larkstone Ln.

Bristol Restoration

25020 Avenue Stanford
Santa Clarita

British builders

4944 Denny Avenue
North Hollywood

Brothers Construction Co

2103 Maynard Dr

Build 4 You Inc

18740 Oxnard St

Builders Law Group

9767 Vía Roma

Built Strong Construction

14431 Ventura Blvd
Sherman Oaks

Butel Construction Inc

257 S Citrus Ave
Los Angeles

By Marciano

19528 VENTURA BLVD #641

C & C Technical Solutions

Commonwealth ave

C A S Inc

18344 Oxnard St


41700 Ivy St. Ste C


Los Angeles

Calco Builders

620 N. Heliotrope Drive

California Certified

12663 Ralston Ave

California Construction & development

8414 s. 8th Ave.
Los Angeles

California Construction Center

12509 Oxnard Street
North Hollywood

California Consultants

3458 Charlemagne Ave
Long Beach

Callahan Building & Inv. Co., Inc

2380 Glendale Blvd
Los Angeles


Palm Springs

Canoga Fence

25852 McBean Parkway


14403 Raphael Ave

Cinbad Industry, Inc.

P O BOX 3312

City Wide Construction Inc.

4804 Laurel Canyon Blve
Valley Village

Clear Construction

6220 Holly Mont Drive
Los Angeles

CMS Construction

800 S Pacific Coast Hwy
Redondo Beach

Confidence Builders General Contractors

26096 Adamor Rd.

Construction Inc.

5657 Saloma Ave.
Sherman Oaks

Construction Masters

18075 Ventura Blvd

Contractor Home Builders Inc

18331 Sylvan St

CP Design

1625 Freemont Ave Unit 3
South Pasadena

Creative Construction Service LLC

17173 Germain St
Granada Hills

Criss Cross Connections

7422 Cobble Creek Dr

D.R.G. Construction & Millworks

4483 1/2 Hazeltine Ave
Sherman Oaks

Design 2 Build

Orange County

DMAC Engineering

14271 Fern Avenue Suite 13

Dr Vic and Sons Construction

1616 Ocean Park Blvd Suite B
Santa Monica

Dream Design Construct

P.O. Box 7592
Van Nuys

Eberia Construction Co

8924 Olin St
Los Angeles

Eden Development

5739 Katherine Ave
Van Nuys

Elmar General Construction Inc

6161 Woodlawn Ave


17741 Cowan

EN Builders ,Inc

16209 Victory Blvd #298
Los Angeles

enpos construction

641 S Palm St
La Habra


12450 Magnolia Blvd
Valley Village


3104 4TH ST
Santa Monica

F and A Construction

1904 B 5th Avenue
Los Angeles

Farmers Insurance

325 N 2nd Ave

Fidelity General Contractors

18034 Ventura Blvd

Fire Escape Engineers & Services

Boston & Nationwide Services

For Trinity Engineering

301 9th Street

Fusion Metal, Inc.


G&G Structures

23890 Hawthorne Blvd

G3Architects + Builders

4712 Admiralty Way
Marina Del Rey

Gasmars Construction

8361 Florence Ave Ste 101

GD Developers & Associates, Inc.

PO Box 57949
Sherman Oaks

general building & Industries, inc

19255 vanowen street,

George G. Boghossian & Associates, Inc.

1111 North Brand Blvd.

Giant first construction

27001 Agoura Road Suite 285 ,
Agoura Hills

Glen Elroy Construction, Inc

25379 Wayne Mills Pl

GoodFellas Construction

4924 Balboa Blvd

Green Renovation, Inc.

15024 Hesby Street
Sherman Oaks

Greenwise Construction

1875 N. Echo Park
Los Angeles

Greg's Portable Welding

8180 Bella Vista
Los Angeles

Group Land Surveyors, Inc

1436 N Ayala Dr

Guardian Group, Inc.

2350 W. 205th Street

Haner Construction

5201 Patricia Avenue

Hanks Construction

8491 W Sunset Blvd
West Hollywood

Hardrock Construction

220 W Central Ave Apt 409

Hawkeye Inspection Service, Inc.

4015 Aspen Lane
Chino Hills

Hero Construction Corp

530 N Shelton St

Home Helper Ed

13209 Filmore St

Home Top Construction & Design Inc

6931 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

Home, James! Real Estate

31103 Rancho Viejo Rd. #2328
San Juan Capistrano


PO Box 940008
Simi Valley


North Hollywood

Hughes Engineer

P.O. BOX 6

Human Nature Design & Construction Inc

21606 Devonshire St

Ienga of Orange County

1665 E 4Th St
Santa Ana

IGM Auto Repair

6205 Kester Ave
Van Nuys

IND Construction Inc

17941 Ventura Blvd

Infrared Inspections

2551 Galena St
Simi Valley

Innovative Structural Engineering

29970 Technology Dr Ste 108

iRealty Inspection Services (dba IRIS Engineers)

1948 Comstock Avenue
Los Angeles




Van Nuys

J-Squared General Contractors inc.

1761 E Garry Ave Suite 200
Santa Ana


1827 Antioch Road

JCL Contractors

2980 First Street
La Verne

JH Custom Homes Inc

27068 La Paz Road
Aliso Viejo

Jim Cass Structural Engineering

466 East Duarte Road

Jimmy's Custom Upholstery


Joel & Co. Construction - General Contractors

11693 San Vicente Blvd
Los Angeles

John Joseph Mooers Construction

1313 N. Grand Ave.

Johnny's Contracting & Handyman SVC

5433 Rochester St

JPGC inc.

1227 Flanders Ln
La Canada

Julian Construction Inc

2900 W Jefferson Blvd
Los Angeles


San Fernando

L.A. Certified Portable Welding

16111 Plummer Street
North Hills

L.A. Design Group

8212 Laurel Canyon Blvd
North Hollywood

LA Private Eyes Engineers

PO Box 241006
Los Angeles

LA Rocque Better Roofs

9077 Arrow Rte 100
Rancho Cucamonga


2600 E Pacific Coast Hwy Ste 170
Long Beach

Lanza Construction Co

4335 Van Nuys Blvd.
Sherman Oaks

Larry brown Construction Co. Inc

6500 w 87th st

Lotka Construction Inc

1405 W Magnolia

M&A Creative Construction Company

P.O. BOX 940152
Simi Valley

M&M Construction & Home Design

18840 Ventura Blvd

M&M Engineering Design

14428 Hamlin Street
Van Nuys

Maintenance Inspections

3458 Charlemagne Ave
Long Beach

Mark Designs

24451 Muela
Mission Viejo

Mark Hooper

13171 Sierra hwy.
Santa Clarita

MARVA General Construction

8055 Foothill Blvd

Matthew Alexander Creations

26450 Jefferson Ave

Metal Garage Doors and Gates

14532 Friar St
Van Nuys

Metal X Direct

1304 Logan Ave
Costa Mesa

MMC Associates

1632 Ocean Park Blvd.
Santa Monica

Ngara wireless Consultants LLC

23451 ANZA AVE


Los Angeles

Oasis Home construction, Inc

1236 North Orchard Drive


17412 Ventura Blvd

Omni Valley Construction Corp

20555 Devonshire St

Operation Protective Services

Post Office Box 251885
Los Angeles

P & G Remodeling

9000 Orion Ave

p2sk Engineers

3580 wilshire blvd
Los Angeles

pacific construction shawn moshiri

18309 Parthenia St

Pagel Fire Protection

380 W, Athol Street
San Bernardino

Pars Construction Services, Inc.

2372 Morse Avenue

Paul Singer & Associates

674 County Square Drive, Suite 303C

PC Structural Engineering Inc.

4001 Pacific Coast Hwt. Suite 110

PCJ Construction

1209 Oak Hill Avenue
South Pasadena

Plan Spec Construction

6924 Shadygrove Street

PNI Construction, Inc.

6960 Aragon Cir. Ste. 6
Buena Park

Preferred Home Builders Inc

6271 Variel Ave
Woodland Hills

Premium Remodeling Inc

17412 Ventura Blvd

Pride Public Adjusters, Inc.

23332 Hawthorne Blvd.

Prieto Engineering Construction

2026 Glendale Blvd
Los Angeles


Sherman Oaks

Protech Construction

32195 Dunlap Blvd




1665 E 4th St
Santa Ana

Quantum Solar Designs

1270 Avenida Acaso

Quintana Construction Inc

2402 Elmgrove St
Los Angeles

R.S. One Plumbing

145 s.glenoaks suite#446

Red Rock Construction

17714 Candia Ct
Granada Hills

rick jones construction..

18891 Mora Kai, Unit H
Huntington Beach

RJ Design & Construction, Inc.

9903 Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills

Robert M Pagan Construction Co.

8125 Loyola Blvd.
Los Angeles

Robert Mayer Structural Engineer

14402 Haynes St Ste 202
Van Nuys

Roman Construction, Inc.

1457 E. Philadelphia, Suite 30

RSM SECURITY INC/ ADT Authorized Dealer

Serving Southern California
Westlake Village

Rush Plumbing & Rooter/Rush Contractors & Eng.

offices in Anaheim, Menifee, San Jose, San Diego

S & R Machinery Sales

5144 N Commerce Ave Ste D


25471 Arctic Ocean Dr
Lake Forest

Safford Construction Management

3549 Valley View Ave.

SBS Engineering

12616 matteson ave
Los Angeles

SC Blueprinting

6219 Atoll Ave
Van Nuys

Secutrac Engineering

43300 Business Park Drive,

Senel Construction Engineering

2935 camino del zuro
Thousand Oaks

Seridian Construction Inc.

9121 Atlanta Ave
Huntington Beach



Shor Construction

5724 Saloma Ave
Van Nuys

Sigma Services Inc.

2140 Eastman Ave.

SKS Construction

5104 Garden Grove Ave

Sky Renovation

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

So Cal Builders & Design Inc

4514 1/2 Hazeltine Ave
Sherman Oaks

Solomon Brothers Construction

18375 Ventura Boulevard

SP Drafting

8316 Red Oak St #202
Rancho Cucamonga

Stan Anderson Design

1644 Bayview Dr
Hermosa Beach

Step Above Construction

25254 Friar St.
Woodland Hills

Sterling Solution

3150 Forest Meadow Drive
Chino Hills


7136 Haskell Ave., Suite 301
Van Nuys


16733 Ventura Blvd Ste 200

Structural Engineer

Rancho Santa Margarita


135 N. Victory Blvd.

Summit West Contracting

P O Box 646
Forest Falls

Superior Plastic Fabrication Inc.

2124 W Rosecrans Ave

Taylolr Pacific Construction

152 Highland Rd
Simi Valley

Team Expedite

554 Frankfurt Ave. West Covina

The Gooden Group

6100 Center Drive
Los Angeles

The JVS Construction Group

1732 W. Slauson Ave.
Los Angeles

Towne constration I'm inc

888 E Research Dr, Suite 111
Palm Springs


20555 Devonshire St #260

Trinity Builders & Design

7022 Darby Ave Ste A

Trio Construction Group

399 West Bay Street
Costa Mesa

United Remodeling Construction Inc

4924 Balboa Blvd

Universal Builders

P.O.Box 8715, 4774 Park Granada

Vanguard Engineering

5105 E. Los Angeles Ave #207
Simi Valley

VC Structural Engineering

College Lane
La Verne

Victory Construction Services

P. O Box 4333
Valley Village

Vielma Construction

5419 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles

Vulin Construction

110 Hurricane St #302
Marina Del Rey


Granada Hills

Weinstein Construction Corp

15102 Raymer St
Van Nuys

West Coast Commercial Construction

13710 Bora Drive
Santa Fe Springs

Whitham Creativity

5317 Lexington Ave.
Los Angeles

Wynn Builders

Redondo Beach

Yes construction

12501 Burbank blvd

Zion Construction & Design Inc

21307 Gault St
Canoga Park

ZS Engineering

24 Santa Catalina Aisle

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