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Insulation Contractors to Avoid

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Top Rated Insulation Contractors

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Over 9,238 reviews for
Hayward Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

A
"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

B
"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Hayward

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Hayward

A

Rating
We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.
N

Rating
They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.
- JOEY J.
A

Rating
came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.
A

Rating
is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.
A

Rating
First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.
A

Rating
The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.
A

Rating
came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.
A

Rating
's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Hayward, CA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3D CONSTRUCTION

P.O. Box 355
Soquel

A's Handyman

33 Birch Lane
San Jose

A-1 Drywall

726 14th Street
Modesto

A2Z Construction Co

1037 Sherry cir
Concord

AARON MARTIN DESIGN

1242 S DIAMOND BAR
Diamond Bar

Aaron Plumbing

Po Box 2657
Vacaville

AB&C Services

1860 El Camino Real
Burlingame

ABC Cooling & Heating

3266 Investment Blvd
Hayward

Accelerated Building Contractors

P.O. Box 15453
San Luis Obispo

AdF handyman llc

p.o box 1973

Adriatic Builders

2636 Gold Trl
Placerville

Advanced Home Energy

1356 S 50th St
Richmond

Affordable Heating & Air Conditioning

2659 Castro Valley Blvd
Castro Valley

Aflak Construction

1349 Olive Street

Agape All American Roofing

2342 W College Ave
Santa Rosa

ALCAL ROOFING & INSULATION

42950 Osgood Rd
Freemont

Alex Rodent Pro

1056 Tekman Dr
San Jose

All N One Pest Eliminators

917 Sunset DR
Antioch

ALL SEASONS INSULATION CO

3381 VINCENT RD
Pleasant Hill

All Star Team Construction

1117 Oak St
Alameda

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Remodel and Repair

18006 Incline Rd
Hayward

AMISTAD ENV INSULATION

PO Box 3707
Hayward

AMISTAD/ENVIROTHERM

2216 DUNN RD
Hayward

Argueta Construstion

1240 jack london dr

Arizona's Home Repair

3727 Moonstar Ct
San Jose

ASPIRE CONSTRUCTION

2124 Arzate Ln
Antioch

Asset Home Building

Edythe St
Livermore

Attic Masters

14729 Oxnard St
San Jose

Attic Perfect

1001 Hensley St.
Richmond

Attic Perfect

1001 Hensley
Richmond

Attic Proof Inc.

1250 Fairmont Dr.
San Leandro

Attic Pros

45 south 20th st
San Jose

Atticare SF

985 66th Ave
Oakland

Axsis Construction

P.O.Box 3114
Los Altos

B & D INSULATION

408 BEJAY AVE
Santa Rosa

B Side Construction

1940 Union St
Oakland

BAS Quality Construction

Bay Area
Fremont

BAY AREA NOISE CONTROL

662 30TH AVE
San Francisco

Bay Area Rodent Solutions

645 E McGlincy Ln
Campbell

BAY RESTORATORS

3407 E.8th St.
Oakland

Bay Thermal Imaging

Pleasant Hill

Bay Valley Insulation Inc

44875 Industrial Dr
Fremont

BB&B Builders Inc.

44 Indian Rock ct.
San Anselmo

BECK ROOFING

21123 MEEKLAND AVE
Hayward

Benjamin D. Construction, Inc.

PO BOX 635
Lafayette

Beyond Builders

181 2nd Avenue
San Mateo

Bier Construction

18824 Sugar Pine Dr.
Twain Harte

Black Creek Builders, Inc.

4096 Piedmont Ave.
Oakland

Bradley Construction

PO Box 620276
Redwood City

Brickhouse Construction, Inc.

2964 Hillsdale Dr.
Pleasant Hill

BRYLAND Contracting & Electrical

7172 Regional Street #438
Dublin

Buhler Construction Company

3614 16th St. #1
San Francisco

Cal-Vintage Roofing Co Inc

11257 Coloma Rd
Gold River

California Fresh Air

1647 Willow Pass Rd
Concord

Calvin's Home Remodeling & Repair

926 Foxridge Way
San Jose

Camacho's Painting

Athens Street
San Francisco

Campbell's home services

2561 Holly Dr
Tracy

CAPEY CONSTRUCTION GROUP

1276 Alder Creek Circle
San Leandro

Capp Construction

5721 Salmon court
Discovery Bay

Castle Rock Construction

1652 West Texas St,
Fairfield

Central Bay Roofing & Restoration

1814 Clement Ave
Alameda

Choates Construction

4861 Pacheco Blvd

Christopher Carlson Construction

730 w verano ave
Sonoma

Clark Pest Control

485 O'Neill Ave
Belmont

Closed

San Francisco

Cloyd Enterprises

PO Box 5865
Oakland

CMG SERVICES

100 GRAND AVENUE #201
Oakland

CMS Builders and Restoration

7108 De Soto Ave
Canoga Park

Coast Building Prods

6700 Golden Gate Dr
Dublin

COAST BUILDING PRODUCTS

3043 WILJAN CT
Santa Rosa

Cold Craft Inc Heating and Air

181 Lost Lake Ln
Campbell

CONNOR CONSTRUCTION

38850 Farwell Dr
Fremont

Cook Construction

2098
San Francisco

Corral Construction

14086 Washington Ave
San Leandro

Creavation Builders

6103 Allbrook Cir
Pleasanton

Critter Control of Oakland

2617 Acorn str
Castro Valley

CRIVELARI CONSTRUCTION & HLNG

1130 MARIN AVE
Albany

CrossFire Pest Control

1600 San Pablo ave
Oaklan

Custom Carpentry

440 Holiday Hills Dr
Martinez

Custom Exteriors Inc

2142 Rheem Dr.
Pleasanton

Customized Roofing Company

5346 Montecito Ave
Santa Rosa

Detail Construction

117 South Street
Cloverdale

Diana's Toolbag

35815 Augustine Pl

DRYFAST Property Restoration

1500 Market Str.
San Francisco

Durabuilt Construction

690 West Fremont Ave #15
Sunnyvale

EAGLE ONE SERVICES LLC

PO BOX 2425
Redwood City

Eagle Shield Inc

4115 Blackhawks Cir
Danville

East Bay Rodent Proofing

603 Campania Ct.
Brentwood

Eco Friendly Energy Company

1102 S Abel St
Milpitas

Eco Performance Builders

5063 Commercial Cir. Unit C
Concord

Elkabetz inc.

560 Winchester Blvd.
San Jose

EnerG Shield Home Inspection Services

370 Piercy Rd Suite B
San Jose

Energy Conservation Options

7770 Pardee Ln # 150
Oakland

ESI Repairs & Upgrades

35 Kent Court
Daly City

Evergreen Air Duct Cleaning

1299 Oakland Rd
San Jose

Evergreen Carpet Cleaning Los Altos

477 S San Antonio Rd
Los Altos

Everlast Construction

1941 Oak Park Blvd
Pleasant Hill

EXPANDING SPRAY FOAM INSULATION

PO BOX 1475
Penn Valley

Expert Design Builders

976 23rd Ave
Oakland

Exterior Remodeling Specialists

1030 Yosemite Dr
Pacifica

Fernandos Handyman Services

28 Lakeview Dr
Bay Point

Finish The Job

1745 9th Avenue
San Francisco

FJ Construction Inc

1345 Manor Drive
San Pablo

FJR Construction

Emeryville

Floors R Us Construction

2324 Lafayette St
Santa Clara

forgette design + construction

1601 Julia St
Berkeley

Foster's Constructon & Electric

5554 Amby Drive
San Jose

Freeman Roofing

2153 El Seco Way
Pittsburg

Freschi Service Experts

715 Fulton Shipyard Rd
Antioch

G. O. Blessing Construction Inc.

2708 Virginia Ave
Richmond

Geiler Plumbing

12 Columbine Ct
Napa

GeneralSF

3624 Irving St. Suite A
San Francisco

Generation Builders

P.O. Box 23
Riverbank

Glass Doctor of the Bay Area

1942 National Ave
Hayward

Glenn Allen Dryer Vent Cleaning

1091 Sherry Circle
Walnut Creek

GoodFellas Construction

4924 Balboa Blvd
Encino

GREACON CONSTRUCTION INC.

58 Paul Dr Ste H
San Rafael

Green Builders

215 Commercial Street
Vallejo

GRN Enterprises

403 Roberta Avenue
Pleasant Hill

Guideline Builders

333 Hegenberger Road #315
Oakland

H Builders, LLC

716 Stannage Avenue
Albany

Handy Man Express

641 Iris Ave
Sunnyvale

Handyman Professional Services

Hayward & Greater Bay Area

Handyman Xpress

1143 Bannock st
Livermore

Hassler Heating & Air Conditioning

1537 S 56th St
El Cerrito

Healthy Duct Cleaning

235 Westlake Center
Daly City

HelioPower Inc

25747 Jefferson Ave
Murrieta

Holland Brooks Builders

4075 Nelson Ave
Concord

Home Healing Renovations Inc

702 Harrison St
Berkeley

HomeLab

San Ramon

HONEST BUILDERS

4854 Fair Ave
Oakland

Hongyin Insulation Material Co., Ltd

50 Beech St
Redwood City

iBuild Construction

2765 Hunter st.
Palo Alto

INEXREN

PO BOX 53807
San Jose

InSequent

793 Broadway
Sonoma

IPS Quality Insulation Services

483 Northlake Dr, Suite 106
San Jose

J C & Son construction

431 N Buchanan Cir
Martinez

Jeremy Moore Construction Ca Lic 963425

615 Burnett Ave
San Francisco

Jerry's Jamb And Door Construction

1255 Oak Knoll Dr
Concord

JMC General Construction

1017 El Camino Real
Redwood City

K1 Roofing & Repair

1911 Edgefort Ct
Meadow Vista

kalchandyman

2994 chesywcke ter
Fremont

Kane Pacific Construction, Inc.

3056 Castro Valley Blvd
Castro Valley

KAZEN HEATING & AIR

1226 Araquipa Ct.
Vacaville

Keystone Green

5833 Redwood Dr.
Rohnert Park

KRB Construction

707 Continental Circle

LA RENAISSANCE BUILDERS INC

1061 BELL MARIN KEYS
Novato

Left Coast Contractors

Antonio Lane
San Jose

Marina Mechanical

799 Thornton St
San Leandro

Marvel Architecture

1278 25th Avenue #2
San Francisco

Maximum Builders, Inc.

908 Copal Ct.
San Jose

MEJA Inc.

1696 Trowville Ln.
Hayward

MEKK Construction

5343 Grasswood Circle
Concord

Meneses Construction

751 Laurel St
San Carlos

michael maguire co

942 mckinley ave.
Oakland

Moises the handy Man

661 39th st
Oakland

Mooresolutions Handyman Services San Jose

2246 Los Gatos Almaden Road
San Jose

Mr Attic

1400 Contra Costa Blvd
Pleasant Hill

MRV Construction

310 Meadow Ln
San Jose

Mulhall Construction

1278 25th Avenue #2
San Francisco

Nationwide Secure inc.

3215 Calhoun Ct
Antioch

Noble Construction

1670 S. Amphlett Blvd Suite 214
San Mateo

ODIN'S HAMMER

PO Box 2068
Berkeley

One Way Landscape

1424 Sierra Road
Fremont

Pace Builders, Inc.

1420 Cornell Ave.
Berkeley

Pacific Coast Termite Inc

40487 Encyclopedia Cir
Fremont

Pacific Contracting

5430 Colusa Avenue
Richmond

Pacific Drywall & Painting Inc

499 Salmar Ave
Campbell

Pacific Star Construction

3019 Champion street
Oakland

Paul Davis Restoration Central Valley

150 Middlefield Court, Ste. F

PCC PERKIN'S CONSTRUCTION CO

16621 COWELL ST
San Leandro

Planet Orange

434 Park Ave
San Jose

Portlock Drywall

3042 hillside ct.
Fairfield

Practical Roofing

6440 Preston Livermore / 1340 Ruffino Ct. Manteca
Livermore

Precision Contractors

5779 Amend Rd.
El Sobrante

Precision Roofing Co

PO Box 7367
Oakland

Quality Remodeling and Design

159 Donegal Way
Martinez

Quality Roofing

10365 New Ave

R & J Construction

2880 Camino Tassajara
Danville

R & M Quality Doors & Windows

5588 Central Ave
Newark

R & R Handyman Service

212 Dale Dr.
San Jose

RDG Construction

1517 North Point street
San Francisco

Realty Builders Inc

1080 La Cienega Blvd Suite 305
Los Angeles

REMUS CONTRACTORS, INC.

PO Box 505
Burlingame

REMY'S QUALITY CONSTRUCTION

912 S AMPHLETT BLVD
San Mateo

Repair Wizards

20 E. Main St.
Los Gatos

RM Built

PO Box 1174

ROBERT INSULATION & drywall inc.

115 PIZARRO AVE
Novato

Roca Enviroworks

1734 13th str
Oakland

ROOF LIFE

PO BOX 733
San Ramon

Roofmax

7275 National Dr
Livermore

Rose Construction

39 Belmont Ave
Fairfax

RPM Contractors

2510 Carlmont Dr.

Ryan Peacock Inc.

1061 Richard Ave
Santa Clara

S & I Construction, Inc.

287 17th Street
Oakland

S&I Construction, Inc

287 17th St.
Oakland

Saiyed & Assosiates

26873 Manon Ave

SALINAS REMODELING AND HENDYMAN SERVICE

349 POPLAR AVE. #5
Redwood City

Sargents Plumbing

Western Ave
Union City

Saribalis Construction

36 robinhood dr

SDI INSULATION

370 LANG ROAD
Burlingame

Seagren General Contracting

4104 24th St
San Francisco

Seismic Retrofitters

45 W. Portal Ave
San Francisco

Service Champions Heating & Air Conditioning

7020 Commerce Drive
Pleasanton

Shaz Construction & Design

PO Box 1083
Novato

Shelton Roofing

135 Aviation Way
Watsonville

Sherman Roofing

5586 Bobby Drive

Sierra Roofing & Solar

6955 Sierra Ct
Dublin

Simon Construction co.

3100 El Camino Real #D

Sky Renovation

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

SLT Construction Bay Area

1094 Gardenia Ln
Concord

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smart Remodeling & Design

1501 19th Ave
San Francisco

Smart Remodeling and Design Inc

1501 19th Ave
San Francisco

SOD Builders Inc

1631 N. 1st Street
San Jose

Solid Build Construction Inc

956 San Pablo Ave
Albany

Sonrise Roofing

37911 Von Euw Common
Fremont

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Splash Window Cleaning & Solutions

2861 Maricopa Ave
Richmond

Strong Built Construction

4319 Railroad Ave
Pleasanton

Sunrise General Construction, Inc.

15755 Via Cordoba
San Lorenzo

Superior Construction And Remodeling Inc

1400 Coleman Avenue Suite A21
Santa Clara

Synergy Spray Foam Insulation San Francisco

101 California Street Suite 2710
San Francisco

Tacktook Construction

331 Monterey Blvd
San Francisco

Taylor's Nailers

PO Box 953
Lafayette

Terminix

5860 W Las Positas Blvd
Pleasanton

The Bee Construction

16824 sorrel wy

The Green Energy Experts

PO Box 751042
Petaluma

Top Design Inc

16134 Hart St
Van Nuys

Treeium, Inc

5352 Laurel Canyon Blvd.
Valley Village

TS Builders

1230 Monticello Rd
Lafayette

Unlimited Building & Plumbing Services

5655 Silver Creek Valley Rd
San Jose

URBAN SHELTER LLC

520 Dover Dr
Walnut Creek

Valex Construction

2151 24th Ave
San Francisco

Valley Home Builders Inc

3466 Edward Avenue
Santa Clara

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

West Coast Energy Solutions

3035 Garden Court
Tracy

West Coast Insulation, Inc.

121 Beech St
Redwood City

Westshore Roofing Inc

2245 A Fortune Dr
San Jose

Wilkinson Design+Construction Inc.

72 Clayton Street
San Rafael

William Wells

San Jose

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

WINE COUNTY HVAC

18664 melody ln

Xpert Construction & Design

3966 Bismarck Dr.
San Jose

YORKSHIRE ROOFING

7275 National Drive
Livermore

Your Energy Solutions

6700 Santa Rita Rd
Pleasanton

Z7 Team Powered By Baseline Construction

360 S Buena Vista Ave
San Jose

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