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Over 8,587 reviews for
Carmichael Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Carmichael

Icicles hanging from roof

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can cause your energy bills to rise and severely damage your roof.

insulation in attic

When cooler weather arrives, many homeowners hire an insulation contractor to perform an attic inspection.

husband and wife with two small children holding big check in front of home

Dream Kitchen Sweepstakes allows Maryland couple to rekindle their dream kitchen and bathroom remodel.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Carmichael


We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.

They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.

came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.

is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.

First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.

The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.

came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.

's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Carmichael, CA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Construction Services,Inc

3362 Monier Cir
Rancho Cordova

Aaron Plumbing

Po Box 2657

Abreu Enterprises

2320 Laramie Ln

Air Tek Home Performance

PO Box 25

All Phase Construction

2023 Polley Dr


801 Plaza Avenue

Allstate Roofing

2264 Fair Oaks Blvd

Alpha II Omega Construction

10151 Kuhn Ranch Way
Elk Grove

Altec Construction, Inc

4219 S Market Ct

America's Advantage Remodeling

4101 Power Inn Rd

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Angels Handyman Service

4748 16th Ave.

Anthony Graves Construction Inc

6045 Kenneth Ave

Atlantis Roofing Inc

4108 36th St

Betlan Construction

PO Box 1134
Pine Grove

Beutler Air Conditioning and Plumbing

855 National Drive

Bier Construction

18824 Sugar Pine Dr.
Twain Harte

Bill Reed Handyman Service

21000 Old River Road
West Sacramento

Bowerbird Remodeling

2418 overhill

Brazil Quality Construction

3871 Security Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

Brazil Quality Roofing Inc

3871 Security Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

breeze mechanical

5406 Silver Poplar Ln
Elk Grove

Brian Faricy

904 Tanner Ct

Bronco Plumbing Heating and Air

5832 W 4th St
Rio Linda

Brothers Home Improvement Inc

2510 Douglas Blvd

Brower Mechanical Inc

4060 Alvis Ct

BW Maintenance & Remodeing

PO Box 1455
Yuba City

C C Construction

4054 Coratina Wy

CABS Heating & Air Conditioning

3346 Jefferson Blvd
West Sacramento

Cal Price Contractor Inc

1471 Meredith Way

Cal-Vintage Roofing Co Inc

11257 Coloma Rd
Gold River

California Energy Consultant Service

11367 Trade Center Dr
Rancho Cordova

California Energy Services

4905 Golden Foothill Pkwy
El Dorado Hills

Capitol City Contractors

3429 Freedom Park Dr
North Highlands

Charles E. Schoff & Co.

9336 Caltrop Court
Fair Oaks



Clarke & Rush

4411 Auburn Blvd

Colony Construction

7925 Butte Avenue

Comfort City Inc

9941 Horn Rd Ste J

Construction Services

3844 Centinella dr.
North Highlands

Cost-U-Less Construction

6912 Treelark Way

Crowley Builders Inc

1201 Plumber Wy

Custom Development od California

11230 Gold Experss Dr.
Gold River Dr.

dahlquist construction

PO Box 720441
Pinon Hills

David W. Hoppe Construction Inc.

4560 Bailey Way



Diamond Construction

PO Box 1661
Diamond Springs

DS Improvements

6800 Sugar Maple Way
Citrus Heights

Eagle Shield Inc

4115 Blackhawks Cir

EcoAttics Energy Saving Solutions

970 Reserve Dr


PO Box 657


Shingle Springs


Elk Grove

Ferguson Drywall

6381 Pine Zette Ln

Five Star Performance Insulation

PO Box 292964

Freschi Service Experts

715 Fulton Shipyard Rd

Future Energy Savers

9721 Kent Street
Elk Grove

Gaines Home Improvement

13027 Ivie Road

Gearhart Construction Inc

PO BOX 1294



Goldstar Insulation - Sacramento

901 North B Street


Fair Oaks

Green Choice Living

1007 W Grove Ave Ste E

Greg Todd Construction & Home Repairs

9530 Beacon Ave.


3941 PARK DR
El Dorado Hills

Hall's Window Center

11297 White Rock Rd
Rancho Cordova

Handyman Services

2029 Benita Way
Rancho Cordova

Handyman Services

2526 Ganzan Way
Rancho Cordova

Hawkins Exteriors

1257 Hassett Ave
Yuba City

HB Urethane Roofing




Huft Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

10103 Iron Rock Way
Elk Grove

J M insulation

1234 hassett
Yuba City

J&A Pino Construction

424 42nd st

Jarrod Holbert Roofing

3032 Highgrade Street

JB Construction

3295 Shelby Place


4531 788TH ST

JDM Construction

2424 Darwin St.


5500 Aguilar rd

John Ellis Construction

8100 Mulrany Way

JR Putman Heating and Air Conditioning

11330 Sunrise Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

Kleenair Heating & Air Conditioning

1657 Silica Ave

Liberty Construction

3848 Sherbrook Dr.
Santa Rosa

Lingley Enterprises

4218 Technology Drive

Lofton Construction

11359 Sunrise Gold Circle

Lovingood Construction Inc.

9474 oak ave


8369 Power Inn Rd
Elk Grove

Lozano Construction

4229 Lozano Lane

Lucent Energy Group

4153 Northgate Blvd Ste 6

M. Jones & Son Inc.

PO BOX 276361

Mac's Remodeling

PO Box 1852

Mattox Construction

4520 Oxbow Dr

Maximus Development Inc

3355 Myrtle Ave
North Highlands

Mcdonald Plumbing Heating & Air Inc

3618 Broadway

Meek's Lumber & Hardware

1414 Colusa Hwy
Yuba City

Mo Better Builders

5332 Grant Ave

Monster Contractor

4763 Ravenstone Wy

Mountain Air Energy

770 Marina Park Dr
El Dorado Hills

Mr. Handyman of Arden Arcade

4380 Auburn Blvd

MVV Homes, Inc

10183 Croydon wy, Ste D

NorCal Construction & Development

8297 Gerber Rd


Shingle Springs

North American Home Services

4617 Auburn Blvd

O'Toole GBC

1224 V street

Old School Construction

1813 Wentworth Ave

Powers Interior Contracting

4781 Oakhollow Dr

quality handyman

1930 wright street #37



Ray O Cook Heating & Air

889 Riverside Ave

RCI Integrated Construction

PO Box 277964

RCI Integrated Construction

PO Box 277964

Regal Home Improvements

7221 Marblethorpe Way

Sacramento Building Performance

5245 Nyoda Way

Sargents Plumbing

1852 W 11th St

Serve All Contracting

3323 Watt Ave

Shaffer Electric

12490 Blake Rd


2646 Waterton Wy

Sierra Building Performance

Aldea Drive
El Dorado Hills

Sierra Pacific Home & Comfort, Inc.

2550 Mercantile Dr
Rancho Cordova

Sierra Valley Home Corp

11476 Elks Cir
Rancho Cordova

SJ Construction


Skyline Energy Savers Inc

2611 Highlands Hills Dr
El Dorado Hills

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smith & Jones Heating & Air

PO Box 799
Shingle Springs

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

South Canyon Construction

5905 Nicolas Rd

Spectrum One

4212 N Freeway Blvd

Sticks & Stones Construction

3304 Cambridge Rd
Shingle Springs

Straight Line Roofing & Construction

4415 Commodity Way
Shingle Springs


1504 Kathy Way

Synergy Companies

1376 E turner rd #A

T&M Mechanical

10056 Calvine Road

The Insulation Pros

8027 Garry Oak Drive
Citrus Heights

The Remodel Guys

5817 Coral Haven Court
Elk Grove

The Rug Bug Inc

4924 Foster Way



Toltec Construction Co. Inc.

P.O. Box 1524

Tom Yancey Company

7101 Fair Oaks Blvd.

Top notch repair

7840 20th Ave

TSD Construction

942 Trestle Glen Way

Us Energy Savers Inc

9245 Laguna Springs drive

Viking Builders

2500 Marconi


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Yancey Company

8250 Alpine Ave

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