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"It couldn't have gone any better. Mr. and his assistant were the utmost professionals. I would highly recommend these good folks to" anyone, not just for mold treatment but for an overall home inspection. Mr. 's expertise is rare and invaluable.

-Joshua N.

"From the first phone call to the last, this was a very positive experience. was quick to respond and set up a plan that fit my busy travel" schedule. The project team was professional and thorough. I had zero concerns about leaving them to work in the house while I was away. I suppose the only upside to finding mold is finding a solid company capable of fixing the problem.

-Kelley T.

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Local Articles in Mesa

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

It’s not abnormal to find mold in your home. Getting the mold treated right away is the best way to avoid health risks. Once you remove the mold from your home it’s very important to fix the moisture problem to prevent the problem from reoccurring.

mold in home basement

If you own a residential property, it's important you understand what mold is doing to your home.

Mold exposure can lead to several health-related problems. With its natural ability to travel through the air, the inhalation of mold spores can create a variety of respiratory ailments. Common side effects include asthma, allergies, respiratory infections, sinus infections and skin rashes. In some cases, mold exposure can even be fatal.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Mesa


It went very well. The mold was not as extensive as originally thought. So they did not have remove as much dry wall as expected. They sealed off the affected area with plastic and treated the areas as described above. The process was very smooth. They provided a detailed estimate and completed the work as agreed.
- Candace M.

The company was extremely efficient and professional. Everything they did was explained and we were shown the problems noted in the initial assessment and any further problems found as they worked. I highly recommend this company to anyone who has or thinks hey have mold in their home. They not only assess for mold but will do whatever is necessary ...More to remediate the mold found. Where demolition was necessary, all materials were taken out and work areas were completely cleaned by the crew. is a great company.
- Patricia P.

The manager was great, He was so knowledgeable yet never made me feel stupid for asking questions. He helped me with insurance and the whole repair didnt cost me anything. Every concern I had, he had answers. He was kind and not pushy and made me feel like he was on my side. He even talked to my home owner insurance company ...More for me. I really felt like he was honest and focused on doing the job right. It's nice to see a company that actually cares about their customers and not just putting more money into their own pockets.
- melisa B.

He arrived punctually. I explained what the purpose of the inspection test was and what I hoped to get out of the visit.
I asked him numerous questions regarding the odor in the basement that I was concerned about and about visible mold.
He did not appear to answer my questions directly and I felt I had to keep asking the same questions ...More repeatedly to get the answers I was looking for. In addition, he did not appear willing to elaborate on the answers and dd not satisfy my questions.
He explained that he would email me the results of the test in about a week. When I received the email, it was simply a chart that was forwarded to me that showed numbers that I did not understand and the types of mold.
In the body of the email he sent me, he wrote a few paragraphs stating that remediation was recommended.
At no point did he contact me by phone to ask if I received the results and at no point did he ask me if I had any questions regarding the results. Not only did he not offer to write a page or two to explain what the results signified or how it applied to my current odor or mold situation, but when I asked if he could, he explained that my $99 I spent did not warrant him to put it in writing.
I explained that there was no way for me to be able to interpret the results of the charts he simply forwarded me from the lab company in Florida due to my extremely limited knowledge of mold, and he responded that all I need to do was ask him questions.
The whole situation appeared unprofessional to me and he did not even seem willing to answer my questions over the phone and the responses he provided appeared vague and too general.
In other words, in my opinion, he did not seem to really want to help me. It would have even been nice, though of course not required, to even have contacted me and explain that though he could not write a report, but for example, that he could take the time to make another visit and go over the results in person.
- Hyun P.

Service tech on time appointed - worked efficiently, thoroughly, professional in demeanor & presentation.

My wife and I were very pleased with the service. Very professional and knowledgeable small business owner. We will use him again should the need arise.
- James W.

Outstanding work is done by . Professional service, arrived on time. Report provided was very comprehensive.
- Nik A.

He thinks the mold is not too bad and was caused by a wet summer and closed crawl space. Advise to turn on the A/C to remove the humidity in the air. No remedy needed.
- Jinji Y.

Mold Removal Experts in Mesa, AZ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-800 Water Damage - Arizona

26996 N 90th Ln

1st Priority Inspections

832 N Grace St

222 Development, Inc

17155 W Post Dr

911 Restoration

790 N Golden Key Street

A Able Handyman Services

3853 W. Brown St.

A Team Restoration

1950 E Watkins Street

ABC Plumbing and Rooter

284 E Chilton Dr #1

Accu Clean Environmental Solutions, LLC

Post Office Box 71905


21001 N Tatum Blvd

Adaptive Environmental Consulting

18602 E. Apricot Lane
Queen Creek


5900 E Main ST.

Affordable Inspections

7549 E. Larkspur dr

Air Quality Specialists Inc

5902 W Gardenia

ALM Services LLC

3252 East Silversmith Trail
Santan Valley



American Home Water and Air

22047 N Black Canyon Hwy

American Made Remodeling LLC

7762 North 51st Lane

American Soda Blasters

PO Box 72334


1450 W Guadalupe Road

Arizona Air Services

6333 n 12th st

Arizona Bug Busters

1910 S. Stapley Dr

Arizona Carpet and Restoration Co.

2423 S. 17th Street

Arizona Drying and Restoration

21432 S Lindsay Rd

Arizona Environmental Group

PO Box 72810

Arizona Hydro-Pro Carpet Cleaning

12601 N Cave Creek Rd

Arizona Restoration Specialists

4521 E Jensen St, #110

Arizona Restoration Specialists

4521 E Jensen St, #110

Arizona Total Home Restoration LLC

882 N. Marion Way

Arizona Water Fighters

1418 N Scottsdale Rd

ASAP Restoration LLC

20701 North Scottsdale Road, Suite 107-292

AZ Dry Ice Blasting

1310 N Mondel Dr Ste 102

AZ Environmental Contracting, Inc.

5827 N 21st Ave

Az Premier Inspection LLC

6026 E. Preston St.

AZ's Best 4 Less Mold, Water & Fire Services

6991 E Camelback Rd

B&A Home Inspection Company

38815 N 31st Ave


820 W Encinas St.

BioSweep of Phoenix

P.O. Box 6856

Cactus Property Services

2820 N 36th Street

Canyon State Restoration

1955 North Val Vista Suite 106

Capital Property Specialists

1444 E. Kingbird Dr.

Carity IAQ Solutions LLC

207 N Gilbert Rd Ste 001

Code 7 & Fire & Water Restoration

38473 N Jonathan St
Queen Creek

Commercial and Residential Inspections LLC

16435 N. 47th. Place

Connected Restoration

4835 E Indigo St. #103

Consumer Finance Solutions

6909 W Ray Rd., B15-106

Copper State Home Builders & Commercial

7125 E. Southern Ave., Suite #109

Copperline Contracting LLC

148 W Orion St Ste C-1

Coyote Carpet Cleaning, LLC

4521 East Jensen Street

CTI Contractors, LLC

550 W. Baseline Rd.

D&K Entprises

517 S Lebaron Road

Day and Night Emergency Service

19105 E. Chandler Heights Rd.
Queen Creek

Day and Night Emergency Services

19105 E Chandler Heights Rd
Queen Creek

DC Restoration

422 S Drew St


19320 E Avenida Del Valle
Queen Creek

Double R Service, LLC

12934 W Cherry Hills Drive
El Mirage

Dryland Homewerks

Apache Junction

Duke Family Carpet Cleaning

1143 N Larkspur Ct

Dunn Environmental Services, Inc.

13122 S 178th Ave

Edge Stone Construction

3087 N 83rd Pl

ehs International Inc

3011 E Broadway Suite 300

EHS Restoration

6056 E Baseline Rd Suite 103

Empire Restoration

3370 N. Hayden Rd 123-296

Environmental Consulting Services, Inc.

4727 East Bell Rd, Ste 45250

Envision3 Group

PO Box 1312

ENVY Restoration + Construction

803 E. Melody Drive

Finocchiaro Construction LLC

16042 N. 32nd St. #D-9

Firestorm 24/7

15615 North 71st Street

First Choice Restoration Inc

1310 N Mondel Dr


1000 Encinas St.

Freedom Insurance Group, LLC

1166 E Warner Rd.


1207 S Williams Cir

Grayhawk Fire and Water Restoration

21620 N. 26th Ave., Suite 200

Green Rhino Builders LLC

625 West 1st Street

Ground Zero Restoration

742 N Monterey St Ste B

Guard Building Corp.


Home Inspection All Star Phoenix

4910 E. Elliot Road

Hutzel & Associates, Inc.

2727 W. Baseline Road

Ideal Cleaning Systems

3553 E. Downing


PO Box 55682

JRM Environmental, Inc.

4240 N. Brown Avenue

JW Plumbing, LLC

16133 E Glenpoint Dr
Fountain Hills

Kary Environmental Services, Inc.

641 South Drew St

Levelup Enterprises, Inc.

18862 N. 62nd. Drive

Lion Contractors LLC

431 S Stapley Dr

M. Steven Contracting LLC

PO Box 20694
Fountain Hills

Mark Steven Construction

9784 W. Hedge Hog Pl

Master Restoration, LLC

3930 W. Wildlife Drive

MJM Improvements, LLC

4104 S. 64th Ln

Mold Neutralizers

4406 E. Main Street


6808 E Beverly Ln


2501 Mayes Road

Mountain Ridge Construction

6635 W. Happy Valley Rd

NexGen Builders

15029 N Thompson Peak Pkwy



Onsite Plumbing LLC

4524 W Crosswater Way

Oroya restoration

9057 e vine ave.

Phoenix Restoration Pros

5025 N. Central Ave #548

Provision Construction LLC.

24654 N.Lake Pleasant Pkwy

QIC Environmental Service

9221 E Baseline Rd

Quality Construction & Restoration LLC

75 W. Baseline Road

Radar Restoration

P.O. Box 12438

Redrock Environmental

5511 W Northwood Dr.

remedy restoration

2875 w ray rd


PO Box 1173
Queen Creek

Saviour's Restoration

126 E. Joseph Way

Saviour's Restoration LLC

126 E Joseph Way

Service 1 Restoration, Inc.

11811 N. Tatum Blvd #3031

Servpro of Gilbert

45 N. Sunway Dr

SERVPRO of North & West Chandler

3220 N Delaware St

Shipley & Sons Construction Co

16809 N 151st Ln

SOS Builders

1710 E Grant St

Southwest Hazard Control

4607 S. 35th St,

Spectrum Environmental Services

820 W. Cottonwood Lane
Casa Grande

Stratton Restoration

2918 S Alma School Rd

Sun Valley Restoration

625 W Southern Ave

Sunbrite Fire and Water Restoration

1654 W Knudsen Dr

Superior Disaster

1320 N. Acacia

Superior Disaster Co, Inc

1320 North Acacia Drive

Syntech Environmental LLC

4608 W Dailey St

The Door & Trim Store

821 W. Broadway Rd

The Drywall Guy LLC

817 N Oracle

Time Management Carpet and Tile Cleaning

30228 N Sunray Dr
Queen Creek

Urban Defense

PO Box 60202

Viking Specialty Contracting

1008 E Vista Del Cerro Dr

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Water Damage Phoenix

2942 N. 24th St. #114

Water Mold & Fire Phoenix

7805 w. Mulberry Dr.



Westlife Environmental LLC

9915 W. Bell Rd
Sun City

Yaquis Construction inc

710 N Marshall Loop

Zona Restoration

1730 w. 10th pl #2

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