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A
"
answered my initial call promptly, was very responsive and friendly. He was punctual and efficient when coming to my house to provide a quote." Later when scheduling the work to be done, he was flexible. He called and was apologetic when he was called out of town for a family issue at the last minute and the men working for him who came to complete the work were professional and completed the work efficiently with little mess. I would definitely call him again.

-Sheela B.

A
"It all went very well.
quickly identified the circuit break even though a friend of mine (who had worked with electricity for many years)" could not.
was very friendly and took his time to explain some wiring techniques to help me with a project. When I reach to the point in my project where I'm ready to connect, I definitely will pay
to inspect my work and make the final connections.

-James K.

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Local Articles in Kayenta

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

Kitchen with new appliances
Electrical, Appliance Sales

Evolution in product standards has led to significant energy savings.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Knob and Tube Wiring
Electrical

Lack of ground wire makes knob-and-tube dangerous, especially with three-pronged appliances.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Kayenta

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Rating
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, friendly and timely. Arrived on time, installed devices quickly and efficiently. Cleaned up afterwards. Very friendly! Final price as quoted. Will definately use again for all my electrical work!!!
- Joseph W.
A

Rating
They did a great job, were very punctual and got the job done pretty quickly, even though they were operating on an agreed hourly rate. For small jobs, they don't quote a fixed price, but perform on an hourly basis. We were happy that they agreed to do the job on short notice (about a week), even though it was pretty small. Would definitely use them again.
- Charles R.
A

Rating
I bought the deal on Friday, received communication on Tuesday and he was here on Wednesday.... I had an outside electric outlet on my deck which stopped working about a year ago. I do remember checking the GFCI's in the house and it not helping, but
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
thinks it was a tripped GFCI. In any case, my outlet was old and had individual covers for each outlet... one of which had broken apart. Now I have a new one which looks much nicer. I overpaid, but that is my fault for purchasing the deal for a new outlet when all I needed was to have it replaced.
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
's Law would have it that if I hadn't done it this way then something would have gone wrong and I would have needed an entire new one installed there anyway. :)
- DONNA S.
A

Rating
Probably the most professional service I have ever received on my home. We have had electrical issues for years and even though several of the repairs were
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
in nature, they pointed out some very big issues and repaired the original shoddy construction. Their price was very fair given the amount of work and time they put in. Gave detailed explanations and
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
on every repair. This is the only electrician I will ever call again in the future!! Thank you
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
!!
- Nicole R.
A

Rating
The install of my new panel and all additional work went very smoothly. I was very happy with the knowledge and professionalism of the electrician(s) and crew members. They were punctual and offered suggestions on additional work I will want to have done in the future. I would recommend this company to anyone needing electrical work and I will definitely be using them again.
- Kathie W.
A

Rating
They did an excellent job. The only fault I could find was they didn't plan well on keeping the insulation from coming out of the attic while they made holes for the cans. Big mess.

- Jack P.
A

Rating
Thanks to all that have written reviews on
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
. You are the reason I chose this company. I highly recommend
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
. and will definitely call them in the future for my electrical needs.
Last evening I realized my A/C had stopped working and temp was rising in the house. I have a 93 year old Mom who is very ill and bed ridden. The breaker had tripped and when I reset, it made a terrible noise and immediately tripped again. I assumed it was the breaker as this is an older home. I logged on to Angie's List and looked for an electrician I felt I could trust and I sent an email. I called around 7:30 am this morning and left an voice mail explaining the critical situation with my Mom.
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
returned my call at 8:03 and made arrangements to send an electrician,
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
, to our home mid morning. She was very sensitive and responsive to the situation with my Mom. This company knows and believes in customer service.
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
called 30 mins ahead as she said he would, was on time, and very professional. He worked quickly and determined that in fact I did NOT need new breakers, but let me know he believed it was my A/C Compressor. He could have changed out the breaker and charged me. However, he said the breakers looked good and I called the A/C company.
As I said - I highly recommend. They are honest, professional, and completely customer focused.
Thank you
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
for the great work.
- Brenda M.
D

Rating
Two workman showed up. One was an apparent electrician the other apparently his helper. I told them what I wanted done; e.g., the installation of a light fixture in the kitchen or the installation of two electrical outlets or a hall light connected to an already existing adjacent light switch. The kitchen light work appeared to be too complicated and they did not have the parts on their truck to install the electric switches. They left and returned on a later date. I had the two men take down and install a new ceiling fan in
Kayenta Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the other work. The ceiling fan works fine. It took about 45 minutes to install. I hired a different contractor who got the work done in a professional manner.
- Rod C.

All Electricians in Kayenta, AZ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Solar & Roofing

1475 N. Scottsdale Rd.
Scottsdale

AZ GARAGE DOORS-N-MORE INC

3685 N Navajo Dr
Prescott Valley

AZ Sign & Graphics, Inc.

4976 West St
Lakeside

Ben Foster's Repair LLC

908 W Fourth St
Winslow

Bisbee Electric LLC

PO Box 1050
Bisbee

Butler Developments, LLC

PO Box 3030
Show Low

Chance & Sons Electric Inc

6235 E Last Chance Rd
Flagstaff

Coconino Electric

1000 W Rte 66
Flagstaff

Country Handyman llc

7630 E Long Bow Dr
Williams

Dan Goodman

PO Box 2797
Show Low

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Erick The Electrician

8014 W Bloomfield Rd
Peoria

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

GOODMAN ELECTRIC

5310 E NORTHGATE LOOP
Flagstaff

Ideal Building Solutions, LLC

5431 N. Oracle Road
Tucson

Levelup Enterprises, Inc.

18862 N. 62nd. Drive
Glendale

NEZ ELECTRIC INC

7000 E RUSSELL FLATS RD
Cornville

Northco Electric

2442 San Miguel Ave

Rose Electric

9500 N Lunar Dr
Flagstaff

Sunshine Experts,llc

6781 N Thornydale
Tucson

System ArchiTechs

883 Old Settler Trail
Show Low

Travis Construction Services

PO Box 1562
Show Low

Valley Home Improvement Services

50 North 226th Ln.
Buckeye

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WDL Builders

7106 Long Road
Show Low

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

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