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A
"We worked with
to redo the shower in our master bath. The stone tile he showed us was unlike anything we had ever seen; absolutely beautiful...." We ended up tiling the walls and ceiling! We described what type of rainfall/showerhead we were looking for and he put together the perfect package for us. They also replaced our old mirror/lights and added new recessed lights and heater. What a difference!!!! The bathroom turned out so great that we decided to do the kitchen as well! Although we kept our existing cabinets, he made it look like we had a full kitchen remodel. When he helped us pick out our beautiful 4piece faucet, we thought for sure that would be the focal point of the kitchen. But now, after adding such unique backsplash, granite, cabinet handles, pendant lights and a stone tile wall it's impossible to decide what we love the most. I really appreciated all the little things he recommended that I never would have though to do....new grout made just for glass tile backsplash, under/over/inside cabinet lighting, and
outlets are just a few. We are just so happy with everything we found there and for all the help putting it all together. Their showroom is full of great new ideas, but if you have something in mind that you don't see, let them know. I'm convinced they can find it for you (for a better price AND better quality than anywhere else). Everyone there was so helpful and patient with us I would definitely recommend at least stopping in to check it out!

-michael M.

F
"I called two days after dropping it off for an estimate of when the work would be completed. They had to order a belt..., it might be in Monday (two more blizzards" later). Called Monday. Snow blower? We have your snow blower? Oh yeah, he's looking at it today (I thought you were waiting for a belt). Called Wednesday (now a full week after dropping it off). Just adding up the prices now..., drive train $150, auger drive $150, cables and....... STOP!! don't do ANYTHING to it. I'll be down to pick it up in 20 minutes. Well yeah, we thought that was high too, but we have some new Toros coming in this afternoon..... Unbelievable. These people seem incapable of giving a straight answer about anything and appear to have no sense of urgency toward providing service in a timely fashion. Not to mention the premium pricing for substandard service. I later learned from, well just about everyone I talked to about them, that they have just about the worst reputation in town, and pretty much all had or heard the same complaints that I had,. Ultimately, I gave it to a friend to bring to the junk yard, but also likes to
. He replaced a belt and a spring and got it going for about $40.
wanted north of $300, then tried to sell me a new one when I didn't take the bait. Save yourself the aggravation. Go someplace else.

-Don S.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!
?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.

Hardware Store reviews in Gilbert

A

Rating
Great old time hardware store with excellent customer service. Spot on employees always available for any question.
- Mary K.
A

Rating
He went the extra effort and played with it until it was perfect for us. Well above and beyond. I was very impressed with his dedication to going the extra step and he helped save us quite a bit of money. I would definitely recommend his services to everyone.
- Pete and Susan O.
A

Rating
im only writing this so you'll stop 'reminding' me to provide a review. It's been two and a half YEARS. Why isn't there a way to say I don't WANT TO DO A REVIEW? THIS IS RIDICULOUS.

- Nanci L.
B

Rating
Angie's list has been bugging the crap out of me for over a year to write a stupid review on a $5 gift card. There was not an option to go away and never ask me for a review again.
- Paul W.
A

Rating
They are really great. They have a store that is plumbing oriented; I can go here for any kind of plumbing issues. When I've called them to the house, they were friendly and on time. I was impressed that he didn't charge me for coming out to look at my drain. It's a very "mom & pop" feel. They're my go-to plumbers!
- PAMELA & JAN L.
F

Rating
Had my bathroom remodeled. Was not happy with the subcontracting company. The tile job is awful. There are sharp edges and indented tiles. You can see the line where they replaced the dry wall. They didn't grout around one of the tiles, when I pointed it out, they caulked it instead of retiling it. They dropped my mirror during install and broke it. In the process, they chipped my counter and hoped I wouldn't notice. When I did notice, brought it up to
Gilbert Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
attention. Finally after months of going back and forth, I went into the store to get a refund on my counter. The GM wouldn't give me a refund and insisted I pick a new counter top. So I did. When he realized the counter top I chose, he offered me the refund. I went with the counter top. The company came to install the granite. Then the plumber came to hook up the sink. The sink leaked. When I called the plumber back, they said it was just condensation. It was a lot of water for condensation, so I called my plumber (who I had to pay) and he stated the drain wasn't sealed. He sealed the drain and now there is no water. It was very expensive.
I purchased a shower head kit because I liked the handles. I chose to use a different shower head. The shower head I didn't use disappeared along with all my extra tiles and grout. I'm still working with
Gilbert Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
to get the tiles and shower head.
I refuse to even shop at
Gilbert Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
any more.
- Rebecca H.
A

Rating
I was amazed at the speed and quality of work. I will tell anyone who wants to know that this is the place to get your concret done well, fast, and GREAT people to work with. Mr.
Gilbert Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
has been doing this since he was a child working for his father. We are impressed.
- Carol P.
A

Rating
Arrived on time, had all supplies needed for the job , quick work and did a wonderful job. Left the area cleaned when job was finished.the whole process was great, from talking with the consultant to the installers. I would recommend their service.Explained in detail what they were doing when changes were make, due to the type of fence I ordered adjustments were made and every thing came together. I love it. We done
Gilbert Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked

- Rosalyn J.

Hardware Stores in Gilbert, AZ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

911 Home Design & Construction, LLC

1464 S Stapley Dr. 1008
Mesa

A BLIND LADY

4469 S LARIAT CT
Gilbert

A Z SHORT POUR

6045 W CHANDLER BLVD
Chandler

Accessible Concrete LLC

8048 West Willow Ave
Peoria

ACE HARDWARE

750 S COOPER RD
Gilbert

ACME Locksmith

2735 E. Main St.
Mesa

ADL Solutions

2720 S Hardy Dr
Tempe

Alliance Lumber

6770 W Northern Avenue
Glendale

AMERICAN PLUMBING SUPPLY CO

2950 GRAND AVE
Phoenix

Anything Steel

25224 W Gambit Trail
Wittmann

Arcadia Window & Door

6425 East Thomas Road
Scottsdale

Aries Home Improvements

10211 N 32nd St
Phoenix

Arizona Arches & Lumber

21602 N 37th Ave
Glendale

Arizona Kitchens by Max & Company Inc

4020 W Grand Ave #1
Phoenix

ARIZONA MOBILE MIX

1826 W Broadway Rd
Mesa

BLINDS OF THE TIMES

PO Box 170
Gilbert

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

BROWN'S PARTS MASTER INC

75 W BASELINE RD
Gilbert

Builders Depot AZ, Inc.

7950 E. Acoma Dr.
Scottsdale

CHRISTINE'S ACCENTS & DECOR

21423 S 147th St
Gilbert

Consumer Finance Solutions

6909 W Ray Rd., B15-106
Chandler

COOKS CRYOGENIC SVC INC

17908 E KNOX RD
Gilbert

Costco Wholesale Corp

2887 S Market St
Gilbert

COXON'S

99 N SACATON ST
Casa Grande

CrownWear

515 E Carefree Hwy #702
Phoenix

Dave's Neighborhood Hardware

4939 W Ray Rd
Chandler

DeFusco Industrial Supply

1315 S Martin Ln
Tempe

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

EAGLE DISTRIBUTING INC

115 N SUNWAY DR
Gilbert

EVANS TOOLS INC

1315 W Harwell Rd
Gilbert

Ferguson Custom Cabinetry & Millworks, LLC

1329 E. State Route 89A
Cottonwood

Floor & Decor

7500 S Priest Dr
Tempe

FOXWORTH-GALBRAITH LUMBER CO

220 W ELLIOT
Gilbert

Franklin's Ace Hardware

9015 E VIA LINDA
Scottsdale

Fresh Start Remodeling Inc

13794 W Waddell Rd 203-190
Surprise

Garage Solutions of Arizona

3060 W Brendon Way
Queen Creek

HOME DEPOT

425 S VAL VISTA DR
Mesa

Home Depot

6880 W Bell Rd
Glendale

HOME DEPOT INC

1021 KAMEHAMEHA HWY

Home Repair Center

4410 East University Drive
Mesa

HPI-HENRY PRODUCTS INC

1425 N MCQUEEN RD
Gilbert

JANE TILLERY INTERIORS-FRNTRS

2473 S HIGLEY RD
Gilbert

Kanterra Stone World LLC

455 S Arizona Av
Chandler

Lasting Impressions

3545 E Indian School Rd
Phoenix

Locksmith Near Phoenix

3145 E Chandler Blvd
Phoenix

Lowe's

1440 S Higley Rd
Mesa

LOWE'S

1620 N 75TH AVE
Phoenix

LOWE'S

734 S GILBERT RD
Gilbert

Lowe's - N Peoria

25311 N Lake Pleasant Pkwy
Peoria

Lowe's - Scottsdale

7950 East Mcdowell Rd
Scottsdale

LOWES HOME IMPROVEMENT CENTER

734 S. GILBERT ROAD
Gilbert

National Property Inspections

42563 W Sunland Dr
Maricopa

NEATITEMS.COM

2370 W HWY 89A
Sedona

NexGen Builders

15029 N Thompson Peak Pkwy
Scottsdale

Paul's Ace Hardware

8449 E. McDonald Dr.
Scottsdale

Paul's Ace Hardware

1153 W. Broadway Rd.
Tempe

Paul's Ace Hardware

16605 E Palisades Blvd
Fountain Hills

Paul's Ace Hardware

1927 E. Baseline Rd
Gilbert

Paul's Ace Hardware Rural & Broadway

929 E. Broadway Rd.
Tempe

Pietra Stone

26776 Trasmiras

PREACH BUILDING & MASONRY SUPPLY

601 N JACKRABBIT TRAIL
Buckeye

Precision Fit Door & Window Inc.

20817 N. 21st Ave
Phoenix

R & K TRUSS

25 W BASELINE RD
Gilbert

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Rise Above Remodeling

42302 N Vision Way #111
Anthem

Saving With Shop.com

2804 West Colt Road
Chandler

Screamin Deals

5734 W. Peoria Ave.
Glendale

SHAR'S BOSCH KITCHEN CTR

1130 N GILBERT RD
Gilbert

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southwest Portable Air

3317 S Higley Rd
Gilbert

STONE AGE DIRECT LLC

23844 S Power Rd
Queen Creek

SUN CREST PRODUCTS INC

PO Box 409
Gilbert

SUN LIGHTING

4545 E BROADWAY
Tucson

SUN VALLEY STONE WORKS INC

1411 E HAMMOND LN
Phoenix

Sunset Treasure Nook Home Collections

15868 W Mustang Ln
Casa Grande

THE HOME DEPOT

2650 W THUNDERBIRD
Phoenix

The Home Depot

650 N 54th St
Chandler

The Plumbing Store

537 N 6th St
Prescott

Tintas Granite and Flooring

13365 W. Foxfire Dr. ste#1

Todd Whittaker Drywall Inc.

9201 W. Grand Avenue
Peoria

TRIPLE S GARAGE

741 N MONTEREY ST
Gilbert

Window Coverings and Slipcovers by Rosa

13118 W Peck Ct
Litchfield Park

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