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Local Articles in Rogers
If your home includes dated or damaged light fixtures, it may be time to replace them. An experienced homeowner who knows their way around electrical wiring can tackle and complete a simple fixture replacement as a do-it-yourself job in less than an hour. However, if you discover unexpected problems or don’t know how to proceed, strongly consider hiring a licensed electrician instead of taking the DIY route to install a light fixture.
Even among night lights, LED bulbs continue to grow in popularity.
Looking to shine a light on your kitchen cabinets? Experts say LED lighting is the way to go.
THE Cost of the recessed light is largly determinate on Where ,You purchase the product and the number you buy .Big Box dicount stores have products made oversea's that are less expensive than those found at Custom Bath & Kitchen Stores , but the products are often riddled with problems , missing parts , defects etc,
A typical light will run $ 35.00 to $ 85.00
However , the true cost of recessed lighting is involved in getting circuits or circuity to the switch and lighting system .In NEW construction , this matter is easily dealt with by installing circuits and hardware during framing . Whereas , with remodeling , installing new lighting into existing spaces , requires wall & ceiling opening ,closure , repair , repainting & finishing
I have been involved in projects where the lighting cost but $500.00 ,,
while the installation & finishing costs exceeded $ 2500.00
Here is about the same question (for 1 fan) a while back, with answer:
Your total cost could be from 1.5-3 times that shown in the answer, depending on how much of the wiring for the three fans he can combine - i.e. can he easily run one power circuit for all 3 fans, then just tap off that for switches and runs to the fans, are they fans only or with lights (double the wiring and switches), etc. Note the costs do NOT include drywall/panelling repair or painting to match. Also, you are going to be near the top end of the estimates, because in all probability your access is poor, and 3 fans are almost certain to require a totally new run from the breaker box.
Unless you have an open exposed-joist attic above where the fans are to go AND the top of the walls the switches will go in, you can expect substantial holes in walls and ceiling to pull the wires and fasten them - by code, you cannot just pull wires between joist and let them lie on the top of the ceiling drywall - you have to staple them to joists every few feet, so you end up with several 1-2 foot holes typically near top of the wall (to drill through top plate), near side of ceiling to grab and bend wire coming up wall, and maybe one mid-ceiling to reach in and fasten wire, then of course the two openings that are ultimately fully concealed by the switch plate and the fan mounting plate or dome.
Before you get into this project I would check with the condo management if you are allowed to do this - there are limits to how much you can modify your condo and how much you can modify or add in the way of electric circuits.
Ahhhh - the light bulb comes on - but I didn't see the rabbit - it must have made it down the hole. Was I right about you upgrading the bulbs from a lower wattage, and that is when they started going out ?
I seriously doubt it is the track, from what you say and especially since the one head works fine at various places along the track. My guess - because these are apparently 110V track but 12V transformer INSIDE the head that mounts to the track, I would say it is the transformer overheating - a VERY common thing with modern electronics and cheap transformers from China. Commonly they have a thermal protector that cuts out when overheated, but overheating 2 or 3 times is normally fatal for them. I bet the transformers have fried, and that even the ones still working are smoked and probably have deformed plastic around them.
The unit is rated to 75W max, and the bulbs you have are 75W and of a design that provides little airflow around them (zero if you are using the glass cover plates for the heads) and has a lot of heat in the upper portion of it - in my opinion just another dumb design. I will give 10:1 odds there are not air holes in the top of the heads either - UL should ban that practice.
Personally, if it were all new I would return it all for my money back right off. Since the track and some heads are old and you are invested in them already, I would gather up receipts and eMail the manufacturer about the issue, and the number of heads that have gone out (old and new combined) and see what they say. I would suspect they will offer to at least send replacements if you send the receipts and bad heads. I would then return any unused bulbs for credit to wherever you got them, and get different bulbs. You will have to ask the manufacturer if the transformer circuitry can handle MR16 GU5.3 base LED bulbs - Amazon has them, if your heads can take them - will run a LOT cooler. Otherwise, 50 Watt Halogen bulbs should fit and might run cool enough to not overheat ?
With transformers in the heads, I would use LED bulbs if compatible with transformer and circuitry.
BTW - you did not say if you tried the "dead" bulbs in the "good" heads - my guess (do just a short test) is they will work, and the bulbs are not the problem at all - it is the transformers.
Your other option. and what I would do unless you are attached to this style fixture or it is mounted to ceiling permanently and you do not know how to change it (or don't want to), so would cost about $125 for an electrician to come out: is to get what you can in refund from the manufacturer (or distributor, if they have good defect return policy), scrap the whole system, and save a LOT of money in the long run on energy costs by going to a 120V CFL or LED bulb system. Use LED if this is a short-term use system, or CFL only if one that will be on for many hours at a time - they burn out quick in frequent short use applications, but go seems like forever in long term use. I have one 60W (equivalent) GE CFL that I use as a nightlight but stays on 24/365 and has been on continuously for over 4 years without burning out. A number of identical ones we tried in applications where they were only on for a few minutes at a time went back under warranty after in a few months. If you are looking for a true "spot" light, then I recommend LED anyway, unless you don't like their "artificial" light.
Here is the info sheet on your unit, with company contact info at bottom:
Depends a tremendous amount on access - if accessible from exposed-joist in attic above, then you might get this for about $300-500 or so for the wiring and installation, plus $200-400 for the materials and dimmer switches, plus the cost of the light fixtures themselves. Probably about $100-150 to repair ceiling if single hole for one fixture, to $200-300 if existing trough-type flourescent fixtures. Painting the repair could be $100 - 250 depending on whether he can match the patch, or has to repaint the entire ceiling to get a uniform effect - which is more common in kitchens, which usually have untextured ceilings and gloss paint. Another alternative it is have the hole patched and prime and plain paint it yourself, then cover the area with a decorative emblem or crest to avoid having to repaint the whole ceiling. Personally I would just put a compatible style fixture in its place, which you might or might not choose to use, so you avoid the cost of repairing the hole and painting entirely, as that is "lost" $.
If the kitchen/dining room ceiling is not accessible from above, then the electrician will have to tear into wall and ceilings, so installation labor might go to $400-600, and drywall reapir and painting probably to about $400-600, depending on how many holes the elecrtrician has to put in and assuming entire surface painting to get a uniform paint look on each disturbed wall or ceiling.
One possibility for savings might be low voltage lighting for some of the kithcen fixtures, which might reduce your wiring cost and number of holes if you do not have attic access.
Be careful on the dimmable LED bulbs - be aware that dimmable bulbs generally cost a lot more, and many brands don't perform well in dimming mode because they are designed to run at a constant voltage, and a lot will not dim past about 40% power before they flick out or start flickering. Some will actually fry the electronics and burn up at lower voltage. Also, there are three different types of dimmers and different bulbs need a different type dimmer switch, so you will have to be careful to always buy the right type bulb, and use all the same type bulb in a given circuit. Here is an article on the types of problmes you can have with LED dimming, even with bulbs designed to be dimmed -
Lighting Installation reviews in Rogers
He did not return calls. Had two appointments with him and he never showed up.
A professional person would have better responsibilty if they want to stay in business.
Angie's list should never promote contractors who are not responsible.
One good thing I never paid any money up front.
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