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Over 2,431 reviews for
Little Rock Mold Remediators from people just like you.

"It went TERRIBLE! I recommend that you never even consider hiring this company, ever. They originally came into my home to scrape my ceilings which contained asbestos." I was told that they would follow proper guidelines when performing the removal such as covering my entire house with plastic sheeting to contain the asbestos material. I was also told that the project would take 2-3 days. 6 days later (double their time estimate), my wife and I came home to their "completed" work. We found asbestos ceiling material everywhere. I literally mean everywhere. Missed spots on the ceiling, asbestos material on our walls, on our floors, in between our hardwood flooring, behind out baseboards, on our clothing, in medicine cabinets, in tub drains, on light fixtures... everywhere. Clearly they did not cover everything with plastic as they promised. Not only did they spread this material everywhere, they damaged my hardwood flooring. There are several scrapes in many areas, water stains on the floor, and that crushed up white powder in innumerable places. I had to hire another company to come out and clean up their mess. This other company was shocked at the terrible work they did. Not only that, but they lied about their insurance so I have no way to be reimbursed for their damages. Do yourself a favor, do not hire them. It has been a nightmare to say the least.

-Grant M.

came out to our house on time as promised. He did an inspection and really took the time to educate me and make sure that I fixed all the" problems I was having. He offered his services for a resonable price. He then told me how to do the same thing myself in order to save money. He is extremely honest, save yourself the hassle and call him FIRST. I then had my ducts cleaned but unfortunately
could not do it because he was so busy. Thats because people probably had the same positive experience that I had. Thanks again
and I will definetly call you in the future.

-Jennefer R.

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Local Articles in Little Rock


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Little Rock


We hired
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
to remove the mold in a home we recently purchased and had tested for mold. After air samples were taken and came back positive, they began removing baseboards and sheetrock per remediation. After locating and removing all of the mold an air scrubber was put in place for 24 hours. Another air test was performed, which failed.
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
then scrubbed the air for another 48 hours, paid for the second test, which passed. Hopefully we will not have any more mold or water damage, but if we do we will call
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- Carrie S.

After careful examination to the job he completed, we strongly feel that what was offered was in no way completed, in either a professional nor timely manner. What was given was not what we had truly expected, of this inspection. He was there to inspect a house that was in contingency of sale, and we weren't given the service we paid for.
- Kim S.

Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was prompt, responsive, and professional in estimating, scheduling, and then proforming the work. Finding out that you have a mold issue is never fun, but
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
made the repair and restoration about as painless as I could have hoped it to be.
- Greg F.

Responded to our voicemail immediately, worked with our schedule, arrived on time, professional demeanor, extensive and meticulous inspection. Although no mold was found, willing to answer all of our questions about preventive maintenance. Efficient billing process. Highly recommend. Call any mold inspector you want, but call
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- Jacqueline M.

We had a pipe burst, causing a minor flood, saturating the carpeting in a room in our finished basement and running into the crawlspace beneath our stairs. I contacted
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
around 7:00 p.m. and was immediately connected with a live person on the other end who put me in touch with one of their techs. After explaining our problem, he said he could come by in about 90 minutes. Within 10-15 minutes, I received a callback from
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Rankel (Owner), who indicated he was close by and could come over even sooner to assess the damage.
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
arrived within 30 minutes and reviewed the water damage, helped me move some items out of the way, and contacted his techs to apprise them of what they would need to do when they arrived. The techs arrived around 30 minutes later and explained what they would be doing and then set to work. They were quick and efficient, putting the furniture up on blocks, extracting the water, going into our crawlspace to inspect and remove insulation that had gotten wet, and then setting up several driers and a dehumidifier. This required running an extension cord across a small hallway and plastic tubing from the dehumidifier to the bathroom sink. When I expressed my concern about trip hazards, particularly with my elderly parents in residence, the techs were very quick to tape everything down. From the time I called to when everything was done was approximately 3 hours--fantastic! I was advised that it would take 2-3 days for the driers and dehumidifier running 24/7 to dry the carpet.
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
stopped by each day to check on the equipment and the moisture levels. The equipment was removed in 2-1/2 days and then
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
arranged to have someone come in and clean the carpet a few days later. After the cleaning was completed,
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
came by again and inspected the carpet, made sure we had no questions and were satisfied with the job. I'm not sure what the exact cost was because
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
billed the insurance company directly, so there was no out-of-pocket expense while we waited to be reimbursed. Although no one wants to have to go through something like this, I have to say that
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and his crew at
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
made it a lot less painful by being so quick to respond and doing such a great job.
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very conscientious and hands-on, and I greatly appreciated his personal attention to the job and making sure that everything went smoothly and to our satisfaction. While I hope we never need their services again, it's good to know that they're there if something happens and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I highly recommend
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
--check out their website for more information on their services.
- Tina V.

The true
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
of an honest and reliable businessman is to tell you that you don't need his services!
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
conducted a very thorough inspection of our home, high and low. They could smell the odor that had bothered us, but could not detect any mold or evidence of mold. After further questioning, they decided to inspect our attic. They not only found the source of our problem, but told us what was needed to fix it. We now know how to proceed, and above all, we have the peace of mind that comes with knowing we don't have a mold problem. I would highly recommend
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- Steven J.

Everything went great I just though they replaced what they removed. I was very happy with the cleaning they did after the mess of the mold in the ceiling. I just thought I wouldn't have to replace the ceiling myself since that was what I didn't want to do in the first place. Very polite during the whole thing.
- Misty G.

This was my first home purchase so I had no idea what to expect.
Little Rock Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very thorough and easy to talk to. Communication was excellent, available by phone or email to answer any questions I had. The report was easy to read and I received it the same day. I would definitely use him again and recommend him highly to anyone looking for a home inspector in South Florida.
- Kathy V.

All Mold Remediators in Little Rock, AR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AdvantaClean Of Central AR

PO Box 242763
Little Rock


7700 Congress Ave


1077 Canary Ave


11701 I 30 BLDG 1
Little Rock


11701 Interstate 30
Little Rock


7715 Distribution Drive
Little Rock

Climate Doctors

9 Highland Pl

Desert Rose Carpet Cleaning

PO Box 15491
Little Rock

Flood Pros Inc and Rug Pros

North Little Rock

Home Energy Rx

125 Gamble Rd
Little Rock

iInspect, Home Inspection Services

Entire State of Arkansas
Little Rock


7609 140Th Pl NE


2501 Mayes road suite #110

Mr. Fix It

7018 S. Hwy 161 Lot#26

Pinnacle Carpet Care

402 Cherrie Ave.

Pro Energy Consultants

4405 Arlington Dr.
North Little Rock

River City Construction

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock

River City Construction PLLC

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock


6621 Geyer Springs Rd
Little Rock

Servpro of Conway & Faulkner

1506 Dave Ward Dr


PO Box 13157

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