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A
"
answered my initial call promptly, was very responsive and friendly. He was punctual and efficient when coming to my house to provide a quote." Later when scheduling the work to be done, he was flexible. He called and was apologetic when he was called out of town for a family issue at the last minute and the men working for him who came to complete the work were professional and completed the work efficiently with little mess. I would definitely call him again.

-Sheela B.

A
"It all went very well.
quickly identified the circuit break even though a friend of mine (who had worked with electricity for many years)" could not.
was very friendly and took his time to explain some wiring techniques to help me with a project. When I reach to the point in my project where I'm ready to connect, I definitely will pay
to inspect my work and make the final connections.

-James K.

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Local Articles in Little Rock

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall
Electrical

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)
Electrical

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Little Rock

A

Rating
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, friendly and timely. Arrived on time, installed devices quickly and efficiently. Cleaned up afterwards. Very friendly! Final price as quoted. Will definately use again for all my electrical work!!!
- Joseph W.
A

Rating
They did a great job, were very punctual and got the job done pretty quickly, even though they were operating on an agreed hourly rate. For small jobs, they don't quote a fixed price, but perform on an hourly basis. We were happy that they agreed to do the job on short notice (about a week), even though it was pretty small. Would definitely use them again.
- Charles R.
A

Rating
I bought the deal on Friday, received communication on Tuesday and he was here on Wednesday.... I had an outside electric outlet on my deck which stopped working about a year ago. I do remember checking the GFCI's in the house and it not helping, but
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
thinks it was a tripped GFCI. In any case, my outlet was old and had individual covers for each outlet... one of which had broken apart. Now I have a new one which looks much nicer. I overpaid, but that is my fault for purchasing the deal for a new outlet when all I needed was to have it replaced.
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
's Law would have it that if I hadn't done it this way then something would have gone wrong and I would have needed an entire new one installed there anyway. :)
- DONNA S.
A

Rating
Probably the most professional service I have ever received on my home. We have had electrical issues for years and even though several of the repairs were
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
in nature, they pointed out some very big issues and repaired the original shoddy construction. Their price was very fair given the amount of work and time they put in. Gave detailed explanations and
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
on every repair. This is the only electrician I will ever call again in the future!! Thank you
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
!!
- Nicole R.
A

Rating
The install of my new panel and all additional work went very smoothly. I was very happy with the knowledge and professionalism of the electrician(s) and crew members. They were punctual and offered suggestions on additional work I will want to have done in the future. I would recommend this company to anyone needing electrical work and I will definitely be using them again.
- Kathie W.
A

Rating
They did an excellent job. The only fault I could find was they didn't plan well on keeping the insulation from coming out of the attic while they made holes for the cans. Big mess.

- Jack P.
A

Rating
Thanks to all that have written reviews on
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
. You are the reason I chose this company. I highly recommend
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
. and will definitely call them in the future for my electrical needs.
Last evening I realized my A/C had stopped working and temp was rising in the house. I have a 93 year old Mom who is very ill and bed ridden. The breaker had tripped and when I reset, it made a terrible noise and immediately tripped again. I assumed it was the breaker as this is an older home. I logged on to Angie's List and looked for an electrician I felt I could trust and I sent an email. I called around 7:30 am this morning and left an voice mail explaining the critical situation with my Mom.
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
returned my call at 8:03 and made arrangements to send an electrician,
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
, to our home mid morning. She was very sensitive and responsive to the situation with my Mom. This company knows and believes in customer service.
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
called 30 mins ahead as she said he would, was on time, and very professional. He worked quickly and determined that in fact I did NOT need new breakers, but let me know he believed it was my A/C Compressor. He could have changed out the breaker and charged me. However, he said the breakers looked good and I called the A/C company.
As I said - I highly recommend. They are honest, professional, and completely customer focused.
Thank you
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
for the great work.
- Brenda M.
D

Rating
Two workman showed up. One was an apparent electrician the other apparently his helper. I told them what I wanted done; e.g., the installation of a light fixture in the kitchen or the installation of two electrical outlets or a hall light connected to an already existing adjacent light switch. The kitchen light work appeared to be too complicated and they did not have the parts on their truck to install the electric switches. They left and returned on a later date. I had the two men take down and install a new ceiling fan in
Little Rock Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the other work. The ceiling fan works fine. It took about 45 minutes to install. I hired a different contractor who got the work done in a professional manner.
- Rod C.

All Electricians in Little Rock, AR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & D Restoration Inc

PO Box 6212
Jacksonville

A Plus Waste and Recycling Services, Inc.

#18 Desoto Circle
North Little Rock

A State Handymen Inc

16 Autumn Wood Dr
Greenbrier

A-OK ELECTRIC INC

313 CAMPBELL
Little Rock

A1 Handyman Service

2080 Broadview Ave Apt 17
Conway

Accurate Electrical Services

4931 Lochridge Road
North Little Rock

ACE SHOE VACUUM REPAIR

11815 MARA LYNN RD
Little Rock

Advantage Service Company

1797 N. Cypress St.
North Little Rock

AEP SOUTHWESTERN ELECTRIC

400 W CAPITOL AVE
Little Rock

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

ALL-PRO ELECTRIC INC

701 COLLINS ST
Little Rock

Anderson Custom Trim & Electrical Service

p.o box 6342
North Little Rock

ANTENNA-KRAFT

1001 W 33RD ST
North Little Rock

APPLIED INDUSTRIAL TECH INC

8100 Industry Dr
North Little Rock

ARCHER ELECTRIC

218 Chick Ln
Little Rock

ARKANSAS BUSINESS MACHINE

4315 N LANDMARK CIR
Little Rock

ARKANSAS BUSINESS MACHINES

5301 MCCLANAHAN DR
North Little Rock

ARKANSAS ELECTRIC SVC

2919 BETTY DR
Little Rock

arkansas electrical contractors

10716 Lucinda Ln
Mabelvale

ARKANSAS GAS & ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 711
North Little Rock

ARKANSAS INDUSTRIAL ELECTRIC

3520 W 69TH ST
Little Rock

ARNOLD & BLEVINS ELECTRIC CO

3716 HAROLD ST
North Little Rock

B & W MECHANICAL CONTRACTOR

312 N MAGNOLIA ST
North Little Rock

BALLARD ELECTRIC

8449 HIGHWAY 89 S
Cabot

BASIC TECHNOLOGIES

5 WOODSTREAM CV
Little Rock

BASIC TECHNOLOGIES

10118 LICHFIELD DR
Little Rock

BEACON ELECTRIC

PO BOX 6413
North Little Rock

Bert Black Service Co

PO Box 17386
Little Rock

Birkenmeier & Sons Inc

1325 Hillsboro Rd

BISON-MARTIN VACUUMS

2002 N MISSISSIPPI ST
Little Rock

Bob & Ed's Heating & Air Conditioning Company Inc

14807 MacArthur Dr
North Little Rock

BRAGG'S ELECTRIC CONSTRUCTION

3000 CANTRELL RD
Little Rock

Browning Electric

13300 El Rd
Little Rock

Bryant Contracting

25915 Hunters Ln

C & M ELECTRIC

8639 SPARKS RD
Little Rock

C & P CARPETS

8111 Arkansas 107
Sherwood

C A CONSTRUCTION

100 Rustic Way

CABLE CO

115 E CAPITOL AVE
Little Rock

CARROLL SERVICE CO

909 W 134TH ST
North Little Rock

CARTRIDGE WORLD

11321 W MARKHAM ST
Little Rock

Cavanaugh Services

6906 Princess Dr
Little Rock

CCI OF ARKANSAS INC

8220 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

CELESTICA

7400 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

CENTRAL ARKANSAS ELECTRICAL

5 MINNEQUA PL
Sherwood

Chapman Service Inc

717 Cypress
North Little Rock

Clairday Electric, Inc.

112 Blackgum Lane
Searcy

CLARK POWER CORP

4520 W 30TH ST
Little Rock

CM Construction Inc

2219 S. Arch St.
Little Rock

COMMON GROUND ELECTRIC

PO BOX 21216
Little Rock

COMPLETE HOME SOLUTIONS

4509 Colvert Rd
Little Rock

cone electric

237 Benham Rd
Lonoke

CRAFTY ENTERPRISES

2219 S ARCH ST
Little Rock

CRAIN MARVIN ELECTRIC CO

14610 SARA DR
Little Rock

CRONE ELECTRIC

4901 BEAUCHAMP RD
Little Rock

CUSTOM AUDIO AND VIDEO

3403 Montrose Dr
Little Rock

D E WILSON CO INC

10414 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

Daniel And Sons Electrical Inc

930 E Colonel Glenn Rd
Little Rock

David Brewer Construction

123 Main Street
Russellville

DEWEY'S ELECTRIC SVC

4128 BAUCUM PIKE
North Little Rock

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Donald Woodall

Little Rock

DTM ELECTRIC

24307 LAWSON RD
Little Rock

E'S ELECTRICAL SVC

4917 CORAL ST
North Little Rock

Elite Electric

9602 Price Lane
Mabelvale

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Exteriors And Moore

7400 Flintrock Rd
North Little Rock

FIELDS LLC

Little Rock

FITE ELECTRIC CO INC

3520 W 69TH ST
Little Rock

FIX IT QUICK

13300 LONG FISHER RD
Maumelle

FLEMING ELECTRIC INC

9501 LILE DR
Little Rock

Floyd Arick

2001 W 13th St
North Little Rock

FRANK PORTO AFFORDABLE HANDYMAN

5 Wright Cir
Jacksonville

Freewalt Builders Inc

19 Jocote Way
Hot Springs Village

GARAGE DOOR FIXER LLC

7201 Baseline Rd Little Rock (Retail)
Conway

GARY HOUSTON ELECTRIC CO INC

1922 W 3rd St
Little Rock

GATES ELECTRIC COMPANY

PO Box 182
Cabot

GENERAL AIR CONDITIONING CORP

8107 INTERSTATE 30
Little Rock

Generated Energy Solutions, LLC

212 McClanahan Drive
Bryant

Get-ER-Done Handyman Services

17227 Butler Rd
Alexander

Grayer Electric Inc

419 S Main St
Malvern

GRISHAM ENTERPRISE ELECTRIC

5820 N WALNUT RD
North Little Rock

Gunnett Electric

293 Liberty Road
Vilonia

H P ELECTRIC CO

6720 JUNIPER RD
Little Rock

HARVILL-BYRD ELECTRIC CO

9015 KANIS RD
Little Rock

Heath Electric

Little Rock

Heffington Electric

P.O. Box 83
Redfield

HELM CABLE

8120 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

HI SPEED ELECTRICAL

6812 LINDSEY RD
Little Rock

HI SPEED INDUSTRIAL SVC

6812 LINDSEY RD
Little Rock

HIGHER GROUND ELECTRIC

2615 W 15TH ST
Little Rock

HILLCREST MECHANICAL LLC

2201 LINCOLN AVE
North Little Rock

Hilltop Electric Inc

PO Box 191633
Little Rock

Holmes Electric

1104 Kings Mountain Dr.
Little Rock

Home Depot

12610 Chenal Pkwy
Little Rock

Home360, Inc.

7350 Jefferson Hwy

HORTON'S ELECTRIC INC

4232 E 43RD ST
North Little Rock

I K ELECTRIC SVC CO

214 DR MARTIN LUTHER KING DR
Little Rock

iInspect, Home Inspection Services

Entire State of Arkansas
Little Rock

INSTALLERS INC

2112 HINSON RD
Little Rock

J B ELECTRIC

3808 ASHER AVE
Little Rock

J T ELECTRIC

1916 WAR EAGLE DR
North Little Rock

J. B. Construction Company

PO Box 2123
Conway

JAG ELECTRIC INCORPORATED

110 W 13TH ST
Little Rock

JAMES ELECTRIC INC

17112 CRYSTAL VALLEY RD
Little Rock

Jay's Service Company

403 King Pl
Jacksonville

Jerry Pybus Electric Inc

1327 N Tyndall Pkwy

JIMMY CONRAD ELECTRIC CO

CONWAY HWY
North Little Rock

JIMMY CONRAD ELECTRIC CO

6414 HEILMAN CT
North Little Rock

JOHNNY BROWN ELECTRIC CO

PO Box 558
Bryant

Johnson Electric Inc

15013 Hwy 107
Jacksonville

JONES ELECTRIC

3508 JFK Blvd. Suite1
North Little Rock

JONES ELECTRIC

3508 JFK Blvd. Suite1
North Little Rock

Jones Engineering Inc

4100 E Kiehl Ave
Sherwood

K & M Handyman Services

7 Berney Way Ct
Little Rock

Kittles Garage

1300 N Poplar St
North Little Rock

L&K Maintenance Inc

5707 Cheatham Ave
White Hall

LAMP WORKS INC

14 Mohawk Cir
Little Rock

Landscape Associates, LLC

8013 Counts Massie Rd
North Little Rock

Lane Electric of Hot Springs

110 Starla Ct
Hot Springs National Park

LARRY WALKER TILE

3770 Refugee

LASER TOOLS CO

12101 ARCH ST
Little Rock

LEESON ELECTRIC CORP

8124 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

LEGACY ELECTRIC

4714 ASTON DR
Little Rock

Let David Do It

13912 Alexander Rd
Alexander

LET THERE BE LIGHT

140 PEARL AVE
Little Rock

Lewis & Company Construction

PO BOX 4904
Little Rock

LITTLE ROCK ELECL CONTRS INC

13008 LAWSON RD
Little Rock

LYNCH OUTDOOR LIGHTING

5217 YOUNG RD
North Little Rock

madison electric

3104 glasgow cove

MASON ELECTRIC

201 N VINE ST
North Little Rock

MASON/ARMSTRONG ELECTRICAL SVC

8609 KENNESAW MOUNTAIN DR
Little Rock

MAX LUMINS ELECTRICAL PRO LLC

438 DOTSON CREEK RD
Little Rock

McGrew Service Co

507 Hobson Ave.
Hot Springs National Park

Mckissick Landscape & Design

7625 Perry Ln
Mabelvale

MEC OF ARKANSAS

10014 N RODNEY PARHAM RD
Little Rock

MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS ASSN

3609 RUSSELL ST
Little Rock

Michael & Son

4001 Atlantic Ave

MICHAEL CONSTRUCTION ELECTRIC COMPANY

3121 TANNER TRL
Little Rock

Middlebrooks Electric

921 Newcomb Drive
Benton

MIKE GOWEN MECHANICAL

220 GRANT PARK CIR
North Little Rock

MILLER ELECTRIC COMPANY INC

8010 COUNTS MASSIE RD
Maumelle

Mister Sparky Central Arkansas

357 Highway 319
Vilonia

MOUROT ELECTRIC CO

3520 W 69th St Ste 201
Little Rock

MR ELECTRIC

1904 W 3RD ST
Little Rock

MULTI-STATES ELECTRIC

15223 IRONTON RD
Little Rock

NATIONAL ELECTRICAL

3807 MCCAIN PARK DR
North Little Rock

Nichols Service Company

P.O. box 324
Benton

NORTH HILLS ELECTRIC CO WRHSE

6100 GETTY DR
North Little Rock

NORTHWEST CONTROLS SYSTEMS

7631 N SHORE PL
North Little Rock

Pat’s Service Company

16 Whitefox Cv
Cabot

Pevia Electric

2355 Nature Trail

PHOENIX ELECTRIC

Little Rock

PINNACLE HOME IMPROVEMENT

12701 BART MORELAND DR
Roland

Pioneers Handyman Service

13917 Pettus St.
Bauxite

PLANT ELECTRIC CO

5708 STUDER RD
Little Rock

POWELL'S HEATING & AIR COND

6909 REED RD
North Little Rock

Presto Mobile

3623 JFK Blvd
North Little Rock

PRO CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION & REMODELING

30 N MEADOWCLIFF DR
Little Rock

PULASKI ELECTRIC

4710 FLOWERWOOD LN
Little Rock

R P POWER

7777 N SHORE PL
North Little Rock

Reed Electric

1012 Yarrow
North Little Rock

Reed Electric

2516 Highway 31 N
Beebe

REPUBLIC ELECTRIC

3301 IMPERIAL VALLEY DR
Little Rock

REXEL DAVIES

PO Box 759
North Little Rock

River City Construction

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock

River City Construction PLLC

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock

Rock Solid Roofing, LLC

4801 Crystal Hill Rd # 2
North Little Rock

ROCKWELL AUTOMATION

1 Information Way Ste 100
Little Rock

ROSEMOUNT ANALYTICAL DIV

5921 H ST
Little Rock

ROWLAND'S ELECTRIC

10400 WOODBRIDGE DR
Little Rock

S & S HOME IMPROVEMENT

104 Marseille Dr
Maumelle

Sanders Electrical

412 Parker Street
North Little Rock

SCN SUPPLY

6210 GETTY DR
North Little Rock

SCOTT ELECTRIC

PO Box 94741
North Little Rock

SEARCHLIGHTS OF ARKANSAS

4808 BASELINE RD
Little Rock

Sellers Electric Inc

16001 Arch St
Little Rock

Simmons Electrical Contracting

PO BOX 24502
Little Rock

SIMPSON ELECTRIC CO

10 LYNWOOD DR
Little Rock

Sloane Electric

85 Schafer Dr
Carlisle

SMART SOUTHERN HOMES INC

PO Box 7469
Little Rock

SNELL-NORTHCUTT ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 24601
Little Rock

SPOERL ELECTRIC

12604 SARDIS RD
Mabelvale

STAGE MASTERS SOUND & LIGHTING

2513 MCCAIN BLVD
North Little Rock

Staley Electric

3400 J.E. Davis Drive
Little Rock

STANLEY HARDWARE

4308 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

Stanley Weaver Electric

143 Chatham Ln
Tillar

Steve Hester and Sons

P.O. Box 40
Cabot

Stewart Electric Co LLC

103 Wildflower Dr
Jacksonville

STYERS ELECTRIC CO

5204 BASELINE RD
Little Rock

TEK ELECTRIC CO

17705 ARCH ST
Little Rock

TENNESSEE VALLEY ELECTRIC SPLY

6210 DIVIDEND ST
Little Rock

Tim's Automotive & Towing

904 SE 21st St
Bentonville

TOM CAMP ELECTRIC

150 HAMMONS CHAPEL RD
Romance

Tommy Electric

4144 Oak Rd

TOMMY H SMITH ELECTRICAL CONTR

2606 RESERVOIR RD
Little Rock

TREADWAY ELECTRIC CO INC

3300 W 65TH ST
Little Rock

TRI STAR IND EQUIPMENT

7628 HARDIN DR
North Little Rock

TUCKER-GUFFEY ELECTRICAL

2625 PRATT RD
Little Rock

VOEGELE MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

3601 RUSSELL DR
North Little Rock

W W GAY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

8900 INTERSTATE 30
Little Rock

W W GAY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

4001 N RODNEY PARHAM RD
Little Rock

WACO DISTRIBUTING CO

708 Garland St
Little Rock

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

2000 E WASHINGTON AVE
North Little Rock

WILKINS REMODELING INC

8715 CANTRELL RD
Little Rock

WITT ELECTRIC

3785 W CADMUS RD

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

WYLIE ELECTRIC

4418 KENYON DR
Little Rock

YOUNG'S ELECTRICAL SVC

18306 RAINES RD
Little Rock

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