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"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Little Rock

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Little Rock

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Little Rock, AR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & D Restoration Inc

PO Box 6212
Jacksonville

A Plus Waste and Recycling Services, Inc.

#18 Desoto Circle
North Little Rock

A State Handymen Inc

16 Autumn Wood Dr
Greenbrier

A-OK ELECTRIC INC

313 CAMPBELL
Little Rock

A-State electric

8724 barber st

Accurate Electrical Services

4931 Lochridge Road
North Little Rock

ACE SHOE VACUUM REPAIR

11815 MARA LYNN RD
Little Rock

Advantage Service Company

1797 N. Cypress St.
North Little Rock

AEP SOUTHWESTERN ELECTRIC

400 W CAPITOL AVE
Little Rock

ALARMCO INC

3911 REYNARD RD
Little Rock

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Electric Supply Inc.

1301 Westpark Dr
Little Rock

ALL-PRO ELECTRIC INC

701 COLLINS ST
Little Rock

All-Weather Heating & Air, LLC

P.O. Box 17032
North Little Rock

Alliance Technologies Inc.

7051 Dewaffellbakker Dr.
North Little Rock

Anderson Custom Trim & Electrical Service

p.o box 6342
North Little Rock

ANTENNA-KRAFT

1001 W 33RD ST
North Little Rock

ARCHER ELECTRIC

218 Chick Ln
Little Rock

ARKANSAS BUSINESS MACHINE

4315 N LANDMARK CIR
Little Rock

ARKANSAS BUSINESS MACHINES

5301 MCCLANAHAN DR
North Little Rock

ARKANSAS ELECTRIC SVC

2919 BETTY DR
Little Rock

arkansas electrical contractors

10716 Lucinda Ln
Mabelvale

Arkansas Energy Innovation

1423 Main Street, Suite C
Little Rock

ARKANSAS GAS & ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 711
North Little Rock

ARKANSAS INDUSTRIAL ELECTRIC

3520 W 69TH ST
Little Rock

ARNOLD & BLEVINS ELECTRIC CO

3716 HAROLD ST
North Little Rock

B & W MECHANICAL CONTRACTOR

312 N MAGNOLIA ST
North Little Rock

BALLARD ELECTRIC

8449 HIGHWAY 89 S
Cabot

Barber Electric LLC

Meadowlark Dr.
Cabot

BASIC TECHNOLOGIES

5 WOODSTREAM CV
Little Rock

BASIC TECHNOLOGIES

10118 LICHFIELD DR
Little Rock

BEACON ELECTRIC

PO BOX 6413
North Little Rock

Benchmark Home Repair

1320 Highway 391 N
North Little Rock

Bert Black Service Co

PO Box 17386
Little Rock

BISON-MARTIN VACUUMS

2002 N MISSISSIPPI ST
Little Rock

Bob & Ed's Heating & Air Conditioning

14807 Mac Arthur Dr
North Little Rock

BRAGG'S ELECTRIC CONSTRUCTION

3000 CANTRELL RD
Little Rock

Browning Electric

13300 El Rd
Little Rock

Byron K Daniels

Little Rock

C & M ELECTRIC

8639 SPARKS RD
Little Rock

C & P CARPETS

8111 Arkansas 107
Sherwood

CABLE CO

115 E CAPITOL AVE
Little Rock

CARROLL SERVICE CO

909 W 134TH ST
North Little Rock

CARTRIDGE WORLD

11321 W MARKHAM ST
Little Rock

CCI OF ARKANSAS INC

8220 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

CELESTICA

7400 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

Centech Services

P.O. Box 86
Mount Vernon

CENTRAL ARKANSAS ELECTRICAL

5 MINNEQUA PL
Sherwood

Chapman Service Inc

717 Cypress
North Little Rock

Clairday Electric, Inc.

112 Blackgum Lane
Searcy

CLARK POWER CORP

4520 W 30TH ST
Little Rock

CM Construction Inc

2219 S. Arch St.
Little Rock

COMMON GROUND ELECTRIC

PO BOX 21216
Little Rock

COMPLETE HOME SOLUTIONS

4509 Colvert Rd
Little Rock

cone electric

237 Benham Rd
Lonoke

CRAFTY ENTERPRISES

2219 S ARCH ST
Little Rock

CRAIN MARVIN ELECTRIC CO

14610 SARA DR
Little Rock

CRONE ELECTRIC

4901 BEAUCHAMP RD
Little Rock

CUSTOM AUDIO AND VIDEO

3403 Montrose Dr
Little Rock

D E WILSON CO INC

10414 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

Daniel And Sons Electrical Inc

930 E Colonel Glenn Rd
Little Rock

Daniel Electrical Inc

13190 Congo Ferndale Rd
Alexander

Daniels Refrigeration & Electrical

6921 Park Meadows Dr
Sherwood

David Brewer Construction

123 Main Street
Russellville

DEWEY'S ELECTRIC SVC

4128 BAUCUM PIKE
North Little Rock

DG Builders LLC

Mayflower

Donald Woodall

Little Rock

DTM ELECTRIC

24307 LAWSON RD
Little Rock

E'S ELECTRICAL SVC

4917 CORAL ST
North Little Rock

Eaton Custom Homes LLC

3755 Irby Dr
Conway

Elite Electric

9602 Price Lane
Mabelvale

Elite Electric

3811 N Magnolia St
North Little Rock

FIELDS LLC

Little Rock

FITE ELECTRIC CO INC

3520 W 69TH ST
Little Rock

FIX IT QUICK

13300 LONG FISHER RD
Maumelle

FLEMING ELECTRIC INC

9501 LILE DR
Little Rock

Floyd Arick

2001 W 13th St
North Little Rock

FRANK PORTO AFFORDABLE HANDYMAN

5 Wright Cir
Jacksonville

Freewalt Builders Inc

19 Jocote Way
Hot Springs Village

GARAGE DOOR FIXER LLC

7201 Baseline Rd Little Rock (Retail)
Conway

GARY HOUSTON ELECTRIC CO INC

1922 W 3rd St
Little Rock

GENERAL AIR CONDITIONING CORP

8107 INTERSTATE 30
Little Rock

Generated Energy Solutions, LLC

212 McClanahan Drive
Bryant

Get-ER-Done Handyman Services

17227 Butler Rd
Alexander

Grayer Electric Inc

419 S Main St
Malvern

GRISHAM ENTERPRISE ELECTRIC

5820 N WALNUT RD
North Little Rock

Gunnett Electric

293 Liberty Road
Vilonia

H P ELECTRIC CO

6720 JUNIPER RD
Little Rock

HARRELL MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

1311 E 5TH ST
North Little Rock

Harris Construction

3720 W 21st Street
Little Rock

HARVILL-BYRD ELECTRIC CO

9015 KANIS RD
Little Rock

Heath Electric

Little Rock

Heffington Electric

P.O. Box 83
Redfield

HELM CABLE

8120 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

HI SPEED ELECTRICAL

6812 LINDSEY RD
Little Rock

HI SPEED INDUSTRIAL SVC

6812 LINDSEY RD
Little Rock

HIGHER GROUND ELECTRIC

2615 W 15TH ST
Little Rock

HILLCREST MECHANICAL LLC

2201 LINCOLN AVE
North Little Rock

Hilltop Electric Inc

PO Box 191633
Little Rock

Holmes Electric

1104 Kings Mountain Dr.
Little Rock

Home Depot

12610 Chenal Pkwy
Little Rock

HORTON'S ELECTRIC INC

4232 E 43RD ST
North Little Rock

Household Solutions

755 Bryant Rd
Hot Springs Village

I K ELECTRIC SVC CO

214 DR MARTIN LUTHER KING DR
Little Rock

IK Electric Company

PO Box 2140
Little Rock

INSTALLERS INC

2112 HINSON RD
Little Rock

J B ELECTRIC

3808 ASHER AVE
Little Rock

J B ELECTRIC

3808 ASHER AVE
Little Rock

J T ELECTRIC

1916 WAR EAGLE DR
North Little Rock

J. B. Construction Company

PO Box 2123
Conway

JAG ELECTRIC INCORPORATED

110 W 13TH ST
Little Rock

JAMES ELECTRIC INC

17112 CRYSTAL VALLEY RD
Little Rock

Jay's Service Company

403 King Pl
Jacksonville

JIMMY CONRAD ELECTRIC CO

CONWAY HWY
North Little Rock

JIMMY CONRAD ELECTRIC CO

6414 HEILMAN CT
North Little Rock

JOHNNY BROWN ELECTRIC CO

PO Box 558
Bryant

Johnson Electric Inc

15013 Hwy 107
Jacksonville

JONES ELECTRIC

3508 JFK Blvd. Suite1
North Little Rock

Jones Engineering Inc

4100 E Kiehl Ave
Sherwood

K & M Handyman Services

7 Berney Way Ct
Little Rock

Kittles Garage

1300 N Poplar St
North Little Rock

KYLE'S ELECTRIC

1580 TOLTEC MOUNDS RD
England

L&K Home Improvement LLC

224 Rose Lane
Little Rock

LAMP WORKS INC

14 Mohawk Cir
Little Rock

Landscape Associates, LLC

8013 Counts Massie Rd
North Little Rock

LASER TOOLS CO

12101 ARCH ST
Little Rock

LEESON ELECTRIC CORP

8124 SCOTT HAMILTON DR
Little Rock

LEGACY ELECTRIC

4714 ASTON DR
Little Rock

Let David Do It

13912 Alexander Rd
Alexander

LET THERE BE LIGHT

140 PEARL AVE
Little Rock

Lewis & Company Construction

PO BOX 4904
Little Rock

LITTLE ROCK ELECL CONTRS INC

13008 LAWSON RD
Little Rock

LiveWire Audio & Video

4600 W 12th St
Little Rock

LumaTech, Inc.

1200 John Barrow Rd
Little Rock

LYNCH OUTDOOR LIGHTING

5217 YOUNG RD
North Little Rock

madison electric

3104 glasgow cove

MASON ELECTRIC

201 N VINE ST
North Little Rock

MASON/ARMSTRONG ELECTRICAL SVC

8609 KENNESAW MOUNTAIN DR
Little Rock

Matthews Construction,LLC.

842 Breckenridge Dr
Benton

MAX LUMINS ELECTRICAL PRO LLC

438 DOTSON CREEK RD
Little Rock

Mckissick Landscape & Design

7625 Perry Ln
Mabelvale

MEC OF ARKANSAS

10014 N RODNEY PARHAM RD
Little Rock

MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS ASSN

3609 RUSSELL ST
Little Rock

MICHAEL CONSTRUCTION ELECTRIC COMPANY

3121 TANNER TRL
Little Rock

Middlebrooks Electric

921 Newcomb Drive
Benton

MIKE GOWEN MECHANICAL

220 GRANT PARK CIR
North Little Rock

MILLER ELECTRIC COMPANY INC

8010 COUNTS MASSIE RD
Maumelle

Mister Sparky Central Arkansas

357 Highway 319
Vilonia

MOUROT ELECTRIC CO

3520 W 69th St Ste 201
Little Rock

MR ELECTRIC

1904 W 3RD ST
Little Rock

MULTI-STATES ELECTRIC

15223 IRONTON RD
Little Rock

Nabco M & E Inc

1750 S Amity Rd
Conway

NATIONAL ELECTRICAL

3807 MCCAIN PARK DR
North Little Rock

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

NICHOLAS ELECTRIC

309 W I AVE
North Little Rock

Nichols Service Company

P.O. box 324
Benton

NORTH HILLS ELECTRIC CO WRHSE

6100 GETTY DR
North Little Rock

Northside Power And Electric

6834 Congo Rd
Benton

NORTHWEST CONTROLS SYSTEMS

7631 N SHORE PL
North Little Rock

Pevia Electric

2355 Nature Trail

PHOENIX ELECTRIC

Little Rock

Pinnacle Contractors

1335 Robins St
Conway

PINNACLE HOME IMPROVEMENT

12701 BART MORELAND DR
Roland

PLANT ELECTRIC CO

5708 STUDER RD
Little Rock

POWELL'S HEATING & AIR COND

6909 REED RD
North Little Rock

Presto Mobile Window Tint and Audio

420 Dupree Drive
Jacksonville

PULASKI ELECTRIC

4710 FLOWERWOOD LN
Little Rock

R M ELECTRIC CO

1201 W 35TH ST
North Little Rock

R P POWER

7777 N SHORE PL
North Little Rock

Red Electric

1815 Pride Gap Rd
Cabot

Reed Electric

1012 Yarrow
North Little Rock

REPUBLIC ELECTRIC

3301 IMPERIAL VALLEY DR
Little Rock

REXEL DAVIES

PO Box 759
North Little Rock

River City Construction

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock

River City Contractors of Arkansas, LLC

19012 Colonel Glenn Rd
Little Rock

RM Electirc

North Little Rock

Rock Solid Roofing, LLC

4801 Crystal Hill Rd # 2
North Little Rock

ROSEMOUNT ANALYTICAL DIV

5921 H ST
Little Rock

ROWLAND'S ELECTRIC

10400 WOODBRIDGE DR
Little Rock

Russell Electric Service Inc

Hot Springs National Park

S & S HOME IMPROVEMENT

104 Marseille Dr
Maumelle

Sanders Electrical

412 Parker Street
North Little Rock

SCN SUPPLY

6210 GETTY DR
North Little Rock

SCOTT ELECTRIC

PO Box 94741
North Little Rock

SEARCHLIGHTS OF ARKANSAS

4808 BASELINE RD
Little Rock

Sellers Electric Inc

16001 Arch St
Little Rock

Simmons Electrical Contracting

PO BOX 24502
Little Rock

SIMPSON ELECTRIC CO

10 LYNWOOD DR
Little Rock

SKARDA ELECTRICAL MAINTENANCE

10322 KRISTEN DR
Mabelvale

SKS Electrical Services

113 N Valley Rd
Searcy

SMART SOUTHERN HOMES INC

PO Box 7469
Little Rock

SNELL-NORTHCUTT ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 24601
Little Rock

Staley Electric

3400 J.E. Davis Drive
Little Rock

STANLEY HARDWARE

4308 MACARTHUR DR
North Little Rock

Steve Hester and Sons

P.O. Box 40
Cabot

Stewart Electric Co LLC

103 Wildflower Dr
Jacksonville

Stowell Construction

401 E Booth Rd

STYERS ELECTRIC CO

5204 BASELINE RD
Little Rock

TEK ELECTRIC CO

17705 ARCH ST
Little Rock

TENNESSEE VALLEY ELECTRIC SPLY

6210 DIVIDEND ST
Little Rock

THOMPSON ELECTRIC INCORPORATED

10715 TRAIN STATION DRIVE
Mabelvale

TOMMY H SMITH ELECTRICAL CONTR

2606 RESERVOIR RD
Little Rock

TREADWAY ELECTRIC CO INC

3300 W 65TH ST
Little Rock

TRI STAR IND EQUIPMENT

7628 HARDIN DR
North Little Rock

TUCKER-GUFFEY ELECTRICAL

2625 PRATT RD
Little Rock

VANNESS INC

11610 Pleasant Ridge Rd Ste 106
Little Rock

Village Electrical Service LLC

150 Rockdale Pl
Hot Springs

VOEGELE MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

3601 RUSSELL DR
North Little Rock

W W GAY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

8900 INTERSTATE 30
Little Rock

W W GAY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

4001 N RODNEY PARHAM RD
Little Rock

WACO DISTRIBUTING CO

708 Garland St
Little Rock

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

2000 E WASHINGTON AVE
North Little Rock

Wesley Brown Electric

10780 Loblolly Dr
Bauxite

WILKINS REMODELING INC

8715 CANTRELL RD
Little Rock

WYLIE ELECTRIC

4418 KENYON DR
Little Rock

YOUNG'S ELECTRICAL SVC

18306 RAINES RD
Little Rock

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