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C
"If you're looking for an A-player insulation contractor, I would recommend looking elsewhere. The energy consultant arrived on time and was friendly. The" estimate process was somewhat of a joke. Basically, whatever I pointed to and said I'm interested in having something done, his response was "yeah we can do that" and then quoted some #'s from his head. Really didn't take any time to look at anything in depth. Didn't even go in the crawlspace to really see the extent of what needed to be done. This compares to another company that came out and did blower-door test and used infrared thermometer equipment to check for heat loss (no charge). The energy consultant said he would follow up with a quote via email. I received nothing and checked junk mail folders. I emailed for follow-up on my own and was told I would be contacted by a specialist. Specialist called and wanted to give me the hard sell on how they really wanted to stop by when my wife would be home. I work in high-tech sales so I understand why they want to do this. However, it's a huge red flag to me and exposes how they conduct their business, which is not how I conduct business.

-Dan L.

A
"They did a very good and responsive job. They came out for a bid quickly, and when we accepted the bid they were very quick to arrange a day for the work. The guys" were also very thoughtful and attentive and clean. Very nice.

-IRENE LIEBAN & DOUG D.

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Local Articles in Bryant

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

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If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

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A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Bryant

A

Rating
It was a very good experience. We agreed on the day and time for the service. On the day, they called to let me know they were on the way and they were able to get everything done right on time. Will definitely call them again when we do work on the attic.
- Joe M.
A

Rating
I live 6 hours away from the property and was only planning to be there for two days. I found Mr
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
on this list. He immediately responded to my call, came the next day, gave me a fair estimate and completed the work within a week. I trusted him enough to give him a key to the property.
- Laura L.
A

Rating
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did an excellent job of orchestrating this project. Our home was a leaky wreck. It could never keep a consistent temperature and our bills were sky-high. Last winter our home dropped from 68 to 49 in 6 hours during an overnight outage. We contacted
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
with
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and he agreed to come out to perform an audit. We were so impressed with him and his meticulousness (painstakingly photo documented every inch of his audit with photos and commentary which he emailed to us for our records) that we agreed to move forward with the project even though the price was initially higher than anticipated. The results were a resounding success!
Our blower test went from about 5500 to 2300 before and after. Our gas bills from this most recent winter were halved when compared to the MCF usage and cost from last year. The house now keeps a constant temperature. He was always available to speak about the project, consistently polite and punctual. A real stand-up guy who ensured every detail of the project was performed to perfection. We are really satisfied with the results.
- Adam G.
A

Rating
We bought our Sun City home in 2013. The house was built in 1972 and what insulation there was in the attic had settled to the point of appearing to have none at all. The deal called for blowing in approximately 10 inch depth of R-30 insulation. It looked to be at least that much and I expect to see the benefits almost immediately. They did very good work at a very good price.
- Michael W.
A

Rating
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his son arrived early in the morning to start the process. I intentionally waited 4-5 months to write this review as I wanted to see if there was an actual difference in the temperature in our house, particularly on the second floor. My daughters bedroom was always cold and she always complained she was freezing. NOT THIS WINTER. My daughter did not say she was cold one time. The insulation was phenomenal and made a HUGE difference, not only in our ability to lower the thermostat this winter, but also in our heating bill.
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his son were very professional and it took an entire day to insulate, repair and seal problem areas.
I asked a lot of questions and they were both very knowledgeable and polite when replying. I can tell you that they had to use more insulation than he quoted me, but he honored his price and did not charge me more. After they completed their work, they cleaned up everything, including vacuuming and even cleaning up the outside walkway in case some errant particles of insulation were left outside.
Do not hesitate to contact
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his son. I highly recommend his work and would definitely rehire him for future work.
- KAREN S.
B

Rating
I bought the special through Angie's List because our home is uncomfortable in the winter and we wanted an expert opinion on why and what we could do to remedy the situation. Although very busy, scheduling was easy and they were on time for the appointment. The tech completed the energy audit. Inspected windows, doors, insulation levels, furnace and water heater etc. Also completed a pressure test on the home utilizing a device that sealed the front door and measured air flow. Total time for the audit was about two hours followed by a brief summary of findings and a promise that a detailed report and estimate for services would follow in about a weeek. The report didn't show and I called he office after a month. Very courteous at the office and promised to follow up with the tech and get the report out. The report followed a few days later. I was disappointed with the lack of data/detail that
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to the conclusions and suggested remedy. Lots of small items, but no smoking gun that was going to help the comfort level in the winter.
- Bob K.
A

Rating
Things went GREAT ! - from the time
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came for the estimate and explained what was to be done, the scheduling and then to the day of service. Everyone showed up on time, worked diligently to get everything done and did a great job cleaning up after themselves. I noticed a difference in the comfort in the house from the moment they left. probably some of the best money i have ever sent. Also should mention that the office (
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) is great to work with too, during scheduling, they worked with my time available, were very communicative with reminders and when it came time to do the service, i received more reminders and was also informed of who was showing up, when to expect and what to expect.. Even paying was made
Bryant Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. Great company ! Great Job !! thanks to all involved.
- Michael L.
A

Rating
The salesman who came out and gave me the estimate was on time and very friendly and knowledgeable .
The workmen arrived on time, did a straight 8 hour day on the cleaning and insulation replacement, then returned the next day to build the decking. $304
They cordoned off everything w/plastic, covered the floors with paper and left the house looking almost cleaner than before they came!
Even though they had me walk though my house after the first days work to make sure that all ceiling lights and outlets worked and no wiring had been disturbed, I failed to notice the lights and electrical plug INSIDE my master bath medicine cabinet no longer worked. I called and they sent out an electrician the very next day and repaired the problem.
All employees, including the home office staff, were very friendly, efficient and helpful. Can't say enough good things about them!
Very happy - and although it was a little more than what I was thinking I was going to spend, it was well-worth the money. They did a top-notch job!
- Cassandra P.

All Insulation Contractors in Bryant, AR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & D Restoration Inc

PO Box 6212
Jacksonville

ABBEY CARPET AND FLOOR OF LITTLE ROCK

7305 CANTRELL RD
Little Rock

Absolute Wildlife, Inc

701 Collins St
Little Rock

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AR Homes & Construction

15240 Childress Road
Bauxite

Arkansas Energy Innovation, LLC

1423 Main St.
Little Rock

Capitol Insulators & Bldg Prods

4300 Rixey Rd
Sherwood

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Exteriors And Moore

7400 Flintrock Rd
North Little Rock

G & S Insulating

38 Epernay circle
Little Rock

Get-ER-Done Handyman Services

17227 Butler Rd
Alexander

handyproz

2205 stonelinks dr
North Little Rock

Harris Insulation

645 Frontage Rd.
Lonoke

Heavenly Exteriors

1210 Mt. Carmel Rd
Cabot

Home Energy Rx

125 Gamble Rd
Little Rock

L&K Maintenance Inc

5707 Cheatham Ave
White Hall

Lewis & Company Construction

PO BOX 4904
Little Rock

Mr Duct Cleaner

4721 Newbridge

Mr. Fix It

7018 S. Hwy 161 Lot#26

Nicholson Heating & AC

417 S Blake St
Pine Bluff

Pro Energy Consultants

4405 Arlington Dr.
North Little Rock

RazorBack Foam Installation

110 KAITLYN DR
Beebe

River City Construction PLLC

714 Calhoun St
Little Rock

Rock Solid Roofing, LLC

4801 Crystal Hill Rd # 2
North Little Rock

Southern Insulation & Supply

1116 Sleepy Valley Rd
Hot Springs National Park

Steve Hester and Sons

P.O. Box 40
Cabot

Terminix

4228 E 43rd St
North Little Rock

The Home Handyman

17200 Chenal Pkwy.
Little Rock

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

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