Oxford Insulation Contractors

in Oxford, AL

37
Insulation Contractors are
in Oxford

6
Insulation Contractors in Oxford
are top rated

A
Rated by
Michael D.
"These guys are top notch and very professional. The install was clean and the guys were a pleasure to deal with.
N
Rated by
Kendon L.
"Very Well.
came and looked around our house and gave recommendations as to how we could save the most . We have an older house, built in 1949 and was leaking" heat out all over. He was very knowledgable and very helpful. We had foam insulation sprayed in our attic and roof and around the whole house and in the rim joists in the basement. When his crew came, which was actually a day early, they were very friendly and very good at their job. They also cleaned up each day before they left. We noticed after it was done, that we don't hear the noise from the street anymore. We won't know for awhile yet on the gas savings.
A
Rated by
Ali A.
"These guys are pros at what they do! They do insulation and they know their stuff. Immediately knew everything about the rebates, gave me a quote over the phone based on the dimensions" I gave them. I basically called to ask them some questions; in the same call they gave me a quote (which came in much cheaper than the other quotes I had gotten), scheduled the Appt and done. The team showed up on time, did their job, gave me the invoice and instructions on the rebate and I paid with Credit Card - very convenient. They are really honest people, because a portion of the exterior wall ended up already having insulation, so they subtracted billing for billing. Whenever I need new insulation, I'll call them first! Simply put: Fast, easy, Premium service and priced very, very competitive.

Local Articles in Oxford

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Download the Angie's List Fall Maintenance Guide to get started on protecting your home from potentially damaging winter weather. (Graphic design by Matt Mukerjee)
Heating & A/C, Deck Maintenance, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Water Heaters, Plumbing, Roofing, Gutter Cleaning, Garage Doors, Fireplaces, Chimney Sweep, Insulation, Auto Service, Foundation Repair, Lawn Irrigation, Tree Service, Windows

When tree leaves and temperatures begin falling, it's a sign winter is on its way. Use this fall maintenance checklist to protect your home from winter damage.

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Oxford

A

Rating
They arrived punctually as promised. (This was my third job by
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
). They performed their work neatly. At the end of the job they explained what was done, how it worked and tested the heating system in my presence. In my 50 years of home ownership, few have come to equal their professionalism.
- Juergen D.
D

Rating
I'll share the bad first because that's the message that's worth communicating.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
lied to me about the work they performed, and has not responded to my request to confirm the work they said they would do.
When
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
from Green Guard Energy and his partner arrived, we were at the tail end of having our house re-wired to eliminate knob and tube wiring. The electricians had also installed two bathroom exhaust fans and were behind schedule on venting those two fans to the exterior soffits.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
said they could attach flexible vents to the two fans and put the vents in the soffits; he added that it was perfectly acceptable and to code to do this and there would be no potential adverse effects from the humidity released into the soffit space. We agreed to this, and thought it was great he was willing to do this for us.
We had just purchased the home in February of 2014, so I contacted the home inspector who evaluated the home before closing to confirm that not venting the exhaust fans to the exterior was ok. The inspector said this was not acceptable because there would not be an efficient way to release the humidity from the attic and there was increased potential for moisture problems to be created in the attic space as well as potential moisture damage to the insulation.
So, after the insulation work was complete, we asked the electricians to continue with their plan to vent the fans to the exterior. I emailed
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to ask him where the flexible vents were terminating in the soffits, so I could give direction to the contractor who was coming to vent them to the exterior. I didn't receive an e-mail back. I called
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and got him, and he said they went directly from the fans to the soffits.
When the contractor came to complete the work to vent the fans to the outside, he confirmed that no flexible vents were installed by
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his partner. Nothing. This meant the fans were venting directly into the ceiling space.I e-mailed
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to communicate this to him and to confirm that he and his partner has done what they told me they would do, and I have received no response two weeks later.
While the rest of their work appears to be fine, I would never use this company again simply because they are dishonest.
I'd be happy to share any other details related to this company.
- Matthew H.
A

Rating
Himself and his crew arrived on a Friday afternoon, they went to work immediately.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and crew spent nearly 12 hours removing all my old insulation in my upstairs. The following days were both about 12 hour days for him and his crew. While part of his crew was removing insulation, some workers were repairing soffits. The entire crew was pleasant and respectful. Himself and his crew made a typically stressful situation into an easy one. They were even able to remove the old insulation threw a window, thankful that I have that option. This allowed them to remove it without dragging it through my home. I highly recommend him to anyone looking to replace their insulation. I can truly feel the difference in my upstairs rooms. It has definitely made my house more comfortable overall.
- betty P.
A

Rating
I scheduled an energy audit with Columbia Gas --- the audit recommended the air sealing and I would get a nice rebate on the service at the time of service and a follow up rebate from Columbia Gas. I scheduled the air sealing with
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
because they were on Angie's List. The technicians came as scheduled and did the job as planned.


- PAT M.
A

Rating
The guys arrived on time and were very pleasant. They put a large tarp on the ground outside and were able to pass the insulation out through the attic window so that none of it got in the living quarters. They also closed the attic pull down stairs at one point to contain the
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
insulation in the attic. I thought that there might be pieces of insulation on the driveway or in the yard after they left, but they did a great job of cleaning up and left no debris. They did a good job with the mastic as well. I was happy with the job and will contact them again for future insulation jobs.
- Lisa W.
A

Rating
Quality of the work was excellent and the return to complete the job was prompt. Advice to use closed cell insulation on the block walls and open cell on the ceiling/under the house’s floor made good sense and was unique among the contractor’s I surveyed. Moreover, the price was the best I found. Highly recommend.
- Joel L.
A

Rating
Our home is not standard wood frame construction, it consits of outside face brick, with larger
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
blocks as the support structure and lathe/plaster in the interior. The house was built in the late 1930's and had NO insulation until 9/24/14. We have lived in the house for 25 years and during the winter when you touched any outside wall it would be cold as a meat locker, even our dishes and glasses in the kitchen cabinets would be cold. And of course, our gas bills during the winter were always outrageous. Recently I had wondered if insulation could be injected into the
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
blocks, well as it turns out, insulation CAN be injected, but not in the blocks. Between the blocks and the outside face brick is a 1.5 inch gap. I saw this gap myself a few years ago when we had an unused side door removed and replaced with glass block. I went to the hardware store and bought aerosal cans of foam and filled this gap all the way around the door frame.

Anyway, this past January I started looking online for information on foam insulation and on Angies List to see reviews.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was highly rated so i gave them a call.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out and explained the process and gave us what I thought was a very reasonable estimate. However, being a thorough person I contacted another company (larger with franchises) and recieved their estimate, it was substantially higher. For various reasons I put off the foam insulation project, I wish I hadn't because last winter was brutal.

So, after things settled down this summer, I contacted
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
again and soon became best friends with
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the Office Manager. I had informed my immediate neighbors (who have the same type of home construction) that they could install foam insulation in their home for a reasonable price. Two of them were on-board immediately, (my next door neighbor called it a "no brainer" and said "sign me up") another one "came around" after
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
met him and explained the process. During this time
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and I were talking quite frequently as she was coordinating the estimates and scheduleing the work and I was giving her people to contact that might be interested. As of today, FIVE houses on our street have been completed.
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
gave all of us a very attractive price because (twice) he was able to work on two houses at the same time (they were side by side).
The process: It was practically painless!
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew were great! They moved all of our porch furniture away from the house so they could work. You will have to take all pictures, mirrors down from any outside walls as the drilling might knock them off the wall. They drill holes in the exterior brick (in the mortar) and inject the foam, then they patch the holes so well you have a hard time finding where it was even injected. You will have to wash your windows after they are done because they spray water on the walls to wash off the excess foam. That's pretty much it. I stayed home to watch the process and it was cool. Inside the house you could hear the the foam as it was being injected. In the basement there were numerous places where the foam came through the interior block through cracks (That's a good thing), And the results?
For ten days after the foam insulation was installed, my house temperature stayed at 70 degrees,varying maybe a degree either way. With no heat turned on (we have hot water radiator heat) and our room air conditioners had been removed. The high and low temperatures during that time ( I checked) went from 80 degrees during the day to a low of 52 degrees. One day we left the window open on a nice day and we were gone most of the day. When we got home in the evening the house was 65 degrees and I thought I would have to light the furnace. We went to bed and the next morning the house was again 70 degrees. The resident heat in the house warmed the living space back to 70 degrees, I was ASTONISHED, and happy!!!
On October 4th we attended a wedding out of town, when we came home the temperature in the house had dropped to 60 degrees. Not a huge surprise as the overnight low was 39 degrees. So I finally had to light the furnace, and the house warmed up, and the furnace stopped running and IT STAYED OFF FOR A LONG TIME!!! Something that never happened before. Now when the furnace runs, it heats the house and shuts off. I don't even notice it running, partly because it doesn't run that often and also because the house is SO much quieter. The insulation dampened the outside noise considerably, (we live on a busy street). It's like a completely different house, it seems so much more solid and secure, it doesn't make sounds like it did before (nice additional benefits). My neighbors said the same thing. We can't believe the difference!!!
So the moral of the story is, if your house is cold and drafty and you are spending boatloads on heating your house. CALL
Oxford Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
! THEY WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU!!!!
- James M.

All Insulation Contractors in Oxford, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Carter Construction

141 Cedar Run Ln
Huntsville

Complete Home Repair

PO Box 324
Cropwell

Contracting Alabama Oncall

4100 Brecon Cir
Talladega

David Armstrong

5645 County Road 12
Odenville

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

FOWLER'S INSULATION & TERMITE

13706 AL HIGHWAY 227
Geraldine

HARZO INC

6900 Lakeshore Dr
Gulf Shores

Indoor Solutions Inc

411 First Ave Ste. B

J & L Contracting

264 Sequoyah Rd
Pell City

L & S Contracting

1330 CR 1727
Holly Pond

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Michael W. Jordan Carpentry

2062 Dobbs Rd
Alexander City

Spray Tech

801 Johnston Rd
Horton

Steamout

1963 Abel Rd.
Delta

Thompson Remodeling

613 9th Ave SW
Attalla

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weather Guard Metal Roofing

1861 Alton Rd
Birmingham

Wilson Roofing and Restoration

2082 Bethlehem Church Road

Yellowhammer Roofing Inc - Florence

3260 Florence Blvd.
Florence

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Oxford Zip Codes

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