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Over 5,067 reviews for
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"We continue to go back to
for our electrical needs. In particular, Fransys and Marcilleo are amazing people who are extremely knowledgeable," careful, and thorough in all of the work they have performed for us. They take the time to explain the how and why of every problem before offering to fix; they're exceptionally professional and polite and we will continue to ask for them by name for as long as we live in the area. we've had the pleasure of using
on several occasions now and we can't recommend them enough.

-Christopher S.

"Our pool pump stopped workingwhile we were on vacation, only to come home to a green algae filled pool. We contacted the pool company and they informed us that our" pump was gone and that we would need a new one. They also informed us that we should have our box updated by an electrician. I must have called about 7 different companies, all with extremely long wait times (2-3 weeks, some even booking into late September). I called
and thankfully he was willing to squeeze us into his schedule.
is the first electrician we have had to hire (we're new home owners). I actually found him online and then confirmed his rating through Angie's List. Called him on a Wednesday, he was here on Friday to replace our GFCI, electrical box and added a timer for us. I am completed happy with the work. He even made it look much better that what we had originally. He took time to go over how to use the timer and the new electrical unit. The pool company will be here Saturday to install the new pump and our pool should be back in order in no time.
was friendly, professional and fair. There were no surprises and he was completely honest and upfront from the beginning. While here, he explained everything he was doing, and he even spoke to the pool company about the pump and set it up so the pool guys can easily install the pump. I just hope the pool guys are as efficient as
was. We would and probably will hire him for future jobs.

-Cicily S.

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Local Articles in Helena

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Helena


They found that the main underground electrical line running to the house was faulty and had to be replaced. We paid for an hour of service and arranged for them to come back and complete the work and to replace the old electrical panel.
- Dave P.

Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
was so professional, helpful, and friendly. He did a great job performing the work and was kind enough (despite his busy schedule) to walk through our house to prepare a quote for some additional electrical work. I would definitely use this company again in the future.
- Katherine J.

The technician was prompt, skilled and efficient. He spent over 3 hours to get the job done correctly and cleaned up afterward as well. We have used
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
for several other jobs and they've always been excellent. What more can you ask for?
- Linda D.

Although I don't think it was my most stellar experience,
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
did fix the issue. However, this took a week of me constantly following up with the company.
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
is very good at being available and picking up the phone, but just isn't very good at calling back. Also, my Angie's list deal promised me a $135 credit, but
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
said he would honor only $100 of that. My poor tenant is a 65-year old lady who was heavily relying on this electrical problem getting fixed, so at that point, I just needed the job done and
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
was already familiar with the issue.
I think I would use them again only if I was in a really tough bind.

- Pornsavan E.

Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to do an estimate just days after I phoned him and had the work completed inside of a week and a half. His written estimate and post work invoice were detailed and itemized...very professional and left no room for misunderstanding. His rates were extremely reasonable and his work impeccable. I will use
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
for any future electrical work and highly recommend him. If I could give and A+ I would!
- Christine C.

d with me and From start to finish I was pleased with the quick service and professionalism, including the final price which made me happy for getting the customer discount on Angie"s list.The office worked with me and squeezed me in within two days of placing my order. I would hire them again for future work.

One of the lights and the exhaust fan stopped working in our master bath (though the other light still worked). I had a handyman in doing some other work and he was unable to figure out the problem, so we bought the Angie's List deal for 2 hours of repair work. We really needed them to come today to fix (it was the only day for quite a while we had off work) and they fit us into their schedule. They came in, quickly figured out the problem, and got it fixed. I was very pleased on how they kept us updated on their progress and their professional, friendly manner. I often find as a woman that I get talked down to about things like this, but they weren't like that at all. We'd do business with again!
- Trent G.

Everything was great! I was very happy with the work and especially very happy with the price. I plan to have
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
Helena Electricians Provider Name Locked
back out for additional work. Of the 10 or so electricians I have dealt with, he is the best so far.
- Paul D.

Electricians in Helena, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Call Contractors LLC

1061 6th Ave NW

5 Star TN

2818 b foster ave

A G & Associates

1111 7th Ave W

Action Electric

PO BOX 413

Advanced Electric Co Inc

PO Box 1087

Alabama Electrical Service

4203 Country Oaks Dr.

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Trades Inc.

5885 snowville brent rd

Alltrade Remodel and Maintenance

1325 Falcon Drive



American HomeCrafter Inc.

4249 4th Ave S Apt D1


605 valley av


3 Belcher Dr.

ARC Home Improvements

1011 Merion Drive

Arrow Electrical Services

125 S Mall

AT & A Electric LLC

4337 Patty Ln

Autry Electronics

16269 Hwy 280

Aux Mechanical Inc

PO Box 910


7705 67TH ST S

B & B Residential Services

4902 Cox Cv


2222 HIGHWAY 52



Banks Home Building Inc

4206 Brasher Dr

Batson Enterprises Inc

23 Polly Ridge Rd

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

2406 Valleydale Rd



Birmingham Electrician

2100 Southbridge Parkway

Birmingham Home Transformations

181 Clairmont Rd

Blair Remodeling

2674 Valleydale Rd

Blake Construction Inc

516 20th Ave. N.E.

Bolt Electric

1908 Carraway St.


160 Hackberry Cir


160 Hackberry Cir

Brown's Electrical Contractors, Inc.

P,O. Box 311296


PO Box 170004

Case Design/Remodeling

4220 Cahaba Heights Court

CEP Construction

200 Rolling Mill St

Charlie's Construction

4301 Huntsville rd.

Clem Electric Service

PO Box 610411

Completion Specialist

1552 29th court

Construction & Management Solutions, LLC

115 Walter Davis Dr Ste B

Dave's Home Improvement

626 Crumley Chapel Rd.

Deca Construction

7213 Groundhog Rd

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dr. Electric

76 9th St N

Dream Baths Of Alabama, LLC

251 Old Prattville Rd

Eagle Eye Home Inspection

228 Garrison Rd


2601 3rd Avenue South

EES Energy Consulting

5821 W. Sam Houston Parkway N #400

Electrical Maintenance and Troubleshooting

2235 Sweeney Hollow Rd.

Estes Painting

1401 Doug Baker Blvd

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls


18 Park Dr

Foster Energy


Guin Service LLC

10 55th St S


Mc Calla

Home Depot

4995 Hwy 280

Home Handyman

1813 Indian Hills Rd


4000 Eagle Point Corporate Drive


231 Commerce Pkwy

Horizon Landscaping and Home Maintenance

1208 4th way
Pleasant Grove


2811 Queenstown Rd

Jay Electric Company, Inc.

600 6th Ave

John Dunn Construction

1507 Morning Sun Circle


PO Box 750



Laceys Electrical

2240 2nd Place N.E.

Larry's Electrical Service

95 Albright Farm Rd

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Luster Electric

520 Greentop Dr

Master Electrician

6395 Walnut Drive

Mels Remodeling LLC

4025 Young Ave Unit C


1307 5th Ave SW

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir

Mr Electric

5521 Eastcliff Industrial Loop

Mr. Electric

PO Box 130399



nerd squad

8534 division ave

No Peel Painting & Remodeling

6778 Spanish Lakes Blvd

North Alabama Builders

311 CR 1387

North Shelby Electric

56 Railroad St


500 Southland Dr

Ontime Service Electrical Heating & Cooling

2668 Old Rocky Ridge Rd


PO BOX 130664




405 Musgrove Dr

Premier Restoration

1500 Urban Center Drive



Pro Services

6632 Warrior River Road

Property Maintenance Solutions

2080 sequoya Lane

Punch-List Repairs LLC

101 Shirley Ln

Quality Restorations, Inc.

2481 Valleydale Road

QuickPro Maintenance & Repair

130 Wildwood Pkwy

R & B Electric

4412 Cook Springs Road
Pell City




P.O. Box 320584

Robson Contractors Inc

3423 Ashford Ln

RSU Contractors

1461 Battleground Dr

RV Shop

6814 Sunny Dell Dr

Security Networks

1085 Inverness Cove Way

Sentry Heating, Air, Plumbing & Generators

2490 Rocky Ridge Rd

Sharp Remodeling Birmingham

4691 Trussville Clay Road

Sizemore Specialty Construction

702 Linden St

Skylight Options, llc

702 Arcadia Cr. NW

Southern Contracting Services

5638 Littleton Kilgore Rd.

Southern Renovations & Construction, LLC

5235 Pinson Valley Parkway

Spectrum Home Services

902 10th St SW

Standard Heating & Air Conditioning

520 8th Street South



Trinity Contractors, Inc.

561 Simmons Dr.

Triple B Construction

755 County Road 15

W C Wright & Son Heating and AC

3008 4th Ave S

W.Rick Construction

85 Munson road


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866



Willis Roofing and Siding

3640 Field Street

Woodall Electric

606 25th St



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