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A
"
was very pleasant, professional and respectful. He arrived on time and focused on the job at hand. He suggested ideas to avoid future plumbing problems. I will use him again.

-Olayinka B.

A
"I purchased the special Angie's List $99 Outdoor Hose Faucet Replacement special. Within an hour of purchasing the special online, the contractor called me" to confirm the date & time, and to confirm the address. On the morning of 8/25/15, he was scheduled for 10-10:30am. I planned on working from home that day anyway, so my availability was flexible. He actually showed-up at 8:30, which was fine with me. I showed him the faucet to be replaced, then opened the bulkhead door so he could access the basement. Approximately one hour later, I had a new outdoor faucet. Everything appeared to be buttoned-up properly with regards to the siding & the faucet connection to the basement, and no mess was left behind. All home repair jobs should be so easy!

-JOHN J.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Hartselle

A

Rating
I called that am and they arrived in couple hours knew what to do and water was standing in my kitchen sink cleaned up after he was done and has work fine since
- Peggy C.
A

Rating
I called
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and others for a quote to snake a slow kitchen drain.
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was the first to return my call, so I scheduled with him the next day. He showed up at my house and was very polite and very professional. He assessed the kitchen sink job and went back to his vehicle for the tools he would be needing. He placed a bucket under the trap to minimize the trap and then launched the power snake into the drain. It didn't seem to be doing the job, so he asked if he could go into the basement (crawl space) to see the drain pipe and get an idea of its length. His years of experience came to the forefront at this point! A plunger works better with PVC drains, who knew?! So he got out his heavy-duty plunger and worked at it for a while and blasted through the blockage. He cleaned up what little mess he made while working. I will not hesitate to call him again in the future. Thanks
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
!!!!
- SHERYL L.
A

Rating
I called Roto Rooter at 9:45 am today and tech was here by 10:15 am and drain was open and tech left by 11:30 am now that is fast service. Since the drain for the shower and drain for the washing machine are linked together every time I would do a load of laundry it would back up into the shower and it was getting worse. Draining slower and slower each time and I was getting tired of standing in water every time I took a shower. First the tech used the snake in the shower drain no luck so he switched and went in the washing machine drain first try it made a wrong turn and ended up coming out the shower drain. Finally on the third try the snake went the right way and finally found the clog I was so happy to see all the water get sucked down the drain. Thank you so much Roto Rooter to me it was well worth the price and the 6 month warranty.
- David L.
A

Rating
I had a kitchen clog that was pretty severe - both kitchen sinks would not drain in spite of my best efforts the day before to resolve the problem on my own. I called
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
first thing in the morning and they were able to dispatch CW quickly. CW arrived at exactly when the dispatcher said he would, and he was courteous and professional - assessed the project and got busy right away. He kept the house and the work space very neat and tidy with booties on his feet and sheets on the kitchen floor. He had to access several clean-outs along the run of piping to gain access to the clog and each site was clean when he was done. He had to pull everything out from under the kitchen cabinet and when he left, it was all put back away - even the shelf liners were returned to their proper place. CW was careful to test the drain line, making sure that it ran through, drained and checked for leaks - none were found. He also suggested an enzyme product to use to prevent such a severe back up in the future. CW worked independently, only needing to ask me minimal questions which allowed me to take care of my 2 younger children and other things around the house. I highly recommend CW and
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
Company!
- donna B.
A

Rating
Very well! They are competent, very friendly and on top of that they were very reasonably priced and honest about work that needed to be done. They were just really nice people to work with. The fact that they're honest and get the job done completely outweighs the "B" ratings in some categories.
- Marion S.
D

Rating
The initial meeting with
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was very pleasant and reassuring, and the estimate of $6500 was well received. A deposit of $3350 was requested and paid on May 26. Scheduling was somewhat open-ended in that he had nearly 6 weeks to complete the job (
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
1 deadline). The bathroom tear-out was completed by the 2nd week, but I received a text stating that there was an unexpected need for asbestos removal - extra $950 - which I paid on June 8. No invoice was provided per my request. A week or so later I was asked to advance another $1000 of the remaining balance because a family member was in the hospital. This I declined, because little progress had been made on the overall job. I began expressing concern about when the job was going to be completed and was told that the delays were due to his other workers not showing up on time, or that they wanted to be paid in advance. I should not worry because the job would be completed on time.
Next problem: we agreed to modify the bedroom flooring estimate. The floors would be sanded to remove the old carpet adhesive and then inspected to see if the original hardwood could be sealed and left uncovered. $600 was agreed upon and added to the estimate to cover this additional work. However, with less than one week to go, the foam padding had merely been scraped up and no sanding was even attempted. Due to the time constraint, I agreed to just apply linoleum to the bedroom floors as per the original plan. Multiple reminders were required to get the new lighting fixtures in the bedrooms and kitchen. The job was "completed" on June 30.
On June 30, I was finally handed an e-mail receipt for the $950 asbestos "treatment." I then asked for a mailing address so that I could send the balance of the account after I could confirm what that "treatment" meant. He refused and demanded immediate payment because I shouldn't question the asbestos contractor he had been using for many years. So I paid the remaining balance of the $8050 final bill.
After allowing the tenants to move in, I inspected the "completed" job and notified
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
of some deficiencies: missing cover plate on bathroom electrical outlet; bathroom tile grout had not been sealed; new kitchen faucet had not been installed; construction trash had not been removed, etc. These problems were resolved. Meanwhile, on
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
3, he was notified of a bathroom sink leak - "acknowledged and fixed."
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
4, the leak was back - "Ugh...I'll look at it when I get back."
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
12, tenants report that the bathroom leak is back and that the sink doesn't drain properly. At this point, I texted
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
- "Come on, man, fix it right or call in another plumber."
I will just quote the "highlight" of his 4 page text response: "what do you mean fix it right I know what the h*** I'm doing how about this you stop bugging me you call somebody else and let them fix it because my job is totally done and complete anyway you don't f***
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
talk to me like that I'm not a d*** kid" After I apologized for "offending" him and suggested that there might be a crack or other defect in the new faucet, he sent a different person to look into the problem. The tenants reported back that the new guy immediately found a problem with a broken pipe which was the cause of the leak and which also interfered with the sink stopper working correctly.
What more can I say. The final job turned out to be somewhat less than OK, and the overall anxiety caused by the many delays could have been avoided. However, the rudeness and total lack of professionalism in honoring the warranty cannot be ignored. What one says is one thing. What one texts or otherwise puts in writing is quite another.

- Bruce M.
A

Rating
I had noticed the soil on a lower level of the garden wet just over a week before I had it fixed. I could tell that it was from a pipe coming into the property from the water main and hate wasting water.
I checked through Angie's List and
Hartselle Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
seemed to be the only company that had the qualifications for finding leaks on hillside properties. I called then on the Friday and the earliest they could fit me in was the following Wednesday. I was a little concerned as the leak was near a retaining wall near the sidewalk but as it wasn't getting worse I waited.
Noél called to say he would be 30 mins late and he diagnosed where the pipe was in 15mins, uncovered it and saw that it had been soldered in numerous places already. He turned the water main off and I turned on all the cold water faucets. He vacuumed the water out, but it still took over an hour and a half for the water to completely drain from the pipes. Noél would not solder until there was no more water dripping.
The water he had vacuumed we emptied into a 40g drum I use for recycling and watering the garden.
After hearing horror stories about the cost of repairing underground leaks I was extremely pleased with his price which included a senior citizens discount. I would DEFINITELY use Noél again for this type of job. Very professional and honest.


- REECE T.
A

Rating
It went well. The service provider was very kind. He did charge me for products that I did not know he needed, so the bill was a little higher than expected but overall customer service was great.
- Jon H.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Hartselle, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Plumber, Inc.

1210 4th Ave SE
Decatur

Alabama Handyman (R)

256 Criscoe Cir
Union Grove

ALABAMA WATER SOLUTIONS

951 BALCH RD
Madison

AllStar Plumbers Inc

15867 Line Rd
Athens

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing - Decatur

848 Natural Bridge Rd
Hartselle

Brickley Plumbing and Electric Inc

203 E Willow St
Scottsboro

Build With Wilson Inc

PO Box 18273
Huntsville

Burrough Backhoe, Inc.

1872 Bobo Section Road
Hazel Green

Corbin's Your Indoor Air Quality Specialist

2253 Rice Mill Chavers Rd
Albertville

DAVIDSON PLUMBING CO

1815 SHERMAN ST SE
Decatur

DEAN & SON PLUMBING CO INC

229 OLD BIG COVE RD
Brownsboro

Dean Plumbing Co., Inc.

3100 B Leeman Ferry Rd,
Huntsville

Gardner's Plumbing

10847 Highway 72
Woodville

George Plumbing LLC

2090 Hwy 31 NW
Hartselle

GREENBRIER SEPTIC TANK PUMPING

29195 CEDAR ACRES DR
Madison

Guin Service LLC

10 55th St S
Birmingham

H C Blake Co

406 Holmes Ave NW
Huntsville

JDB Plumbing Inc

2009 Sranhope Dr
Huntsville

Kelos Services

2919 Holiday Dr SW
Huntsville

Lamco Plumbing

605 Central Pkwy SW
Decatur

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd.

Madison Plumbing Service

1060 Balch Rd
Madison

Marlow's Home Repair

5014 Iona St.
Huntsville

McGuire Plumbing

21075 Broadwater Drive , Athens, Al.35614
Athens

Mels Remodeling LLC

4025 Young Ave Unit C

Mighty Rooter

Huntsville

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir
Dothan

Morris Plumbing Company LLC

PO Box 2971
Decatur

Mr. Rooter of Huntsville

1330 Fletcher Dr.
Huntsville

Nicks Home Improvement

215 Ready Section Rd.
Hazel Green

North Alabama Contracting

871 2nd St NE
Arab

Pee Wee’s Plumbing Inc

1081 Jeff Rd
Huntsville

Plumb-Rite

2908 lake pointe ct.
Decatur

Residential Renovations

475 Greasy Cove rd

Rooter Man

1110 Putman Dr NW
Huntsville

Roto Rooter Plumbers of Morgan County Alabama

301 Austinville Flint Rd SW
Decatur

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