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F
"The service technician was very punctual and did a great job diagnosing my furnace. Although he did not offer to provide space heaters for the weekend, upon calling" the office to request heaters, I was provided with two. After doing research into the warranty on my unit it turned out that my furnace and the part that broke was covered under an enhanced parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer. The company was very misinformed as to what the warranty covered and refused to provide me service under the enhanced warranty even though their website claims they are a factory authorized dealer. Due to the company's ignorance and complete disregard for customer service or doing the right thing, I was obligated to write this review and inform other potential customers to beware.

-Michael P.

A
"Went great did not have heat in our child's room. came promptly and did some of the best work that I have ever seen (I work with contractors" daily). Attention to detail was most important.Mo, and did were some of the hardest workers and fast that I have seen, never sacrificing quality. A plus roofing and Spartan electric came in to assist and also didn't disappoint with the same quality as AA plumbing. You won't be disappointed.

-Andre B.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

Plumber reviews in Hanceville

D

Rating
Tech did not explain anything to me, instead just kept giving these huge quotes. I was supposed to replace toilet valves that were not even broken since the malfunctioning inlet valve-pvr may have damaged them- 4 toilets at $300.00 a pop-who has that kind of money?
I have had several plumbing stuff done through the years and this is my worst experience ...More simply getting a quote. It was a complete waste of my time and money. Will never use them again
- kadiyala R.
A

Rating
They were very responsive, punctual on the day of appointment and the tech did an excellent job. Willing to work with me unanticipated additional work. I would definitely use them again. Excellent experience!
- Daniel M.
A

Rating
It went well. He worked quietly and efficiently and did a great job. Price seemed kind of high but then it is always expensive to have work done for you.
- Scott B.
D

Rating
Not good. First of all he said that Angie's list was a crock and he did not want to use the deal that I had purchased. I purchased the $25.00 for $75.00 worth of work. He talked with his company and he did let me use it but he charge me $215.00. I paid the $25.00 he took off $75.00 . The total cost was $290.00. I think that was way to much just ...More to change out a kitchen faucet. I had to have him change the faucet because he put it on wrong with the on and off lever on the left side. He said whoever put it on was wrong but they were not and he did change it. Then he did not have it tighten down when he went out to write up the bill and the faucet was sideways and I had to ask him to fix it. Do not use this deal. Think he just thought he could get away with it since I am a widow. I am sure Router Rooter have better employees but this one was horrible. If you are in the Gastonia, NC area do NOT use this deal.
- Janice J.
A

Rating
I called Roto Rooter at 4:55pm, the 9th plumber in the area I tried. They were the first to actually answer the phone, and even better, they said they could have a plumber to my house within 2 hours. Even better, they called back in 5 minutes and said someone would be at my house within 30 minutes. Hard to beat that!
...More Green was the name of the plumber who actually came. He was fast, professional, polite, and knowledgeable. Fixed two problems in no time at all. Strongly recommend.
- Timothy E.
A

Rating
Great. Arrived within an hour of initial call and drove off within a 1/2 hr after arriving (with job completed).
- Ian E.
D

Rating
We called when we noticed sewage leaking into our basement on a Saturday in mid-August. Ended up scheduling a plumber to come the following week. While I admit our job was somewhat challenging-- there's no access point to our sewer line from our basement, so they had to go in via our catch basin to clear the line as a quick ...More fix. They cemented over a hole in our basement leading to the sewer where the leak was occurring. They said they'd get back to us with an estimate on a more comprehensive fix-- which included digging up our basement floor and adding an access point.
Months went by and we never heard from them. I called back in late October, and their office couldn't find any record of our job. Eventually, the office had the plumber who came to our house, who said he needed to come back with a camera to assess damage in the sewer line before he could give us an estimate. I was leaving on vacation, so I arranged for a friend to meet the plumber so they could camera in and provide an estimate. They showed up, looked around, and did not use camera or provide any written estimate.
After two visits with no estimate and no fix, I've given up on -- another plumber came out tonight and was able to assess the situation and provide an estimate on the spot, able to complete work by the end of this week. I'll take that over waiting another month and chasing down for a job they clearly must not want.
- Margaret S.
A

Rating
My niece had water standing beside the house and had called several plumber out to find and fix. They gave several quotes and guess too the problem. I was visiting and dug it up and found the problem. Called several plumber and all were booked up. Called 's at 5pm and the lady that answered was very pleasant. I asked ...More if it could be repaired tonight. She said wait a moment and very shortly came back that someone could be there between 5:30 and 6:30pm and I said that would be great. called a little before 5:30 that was running a little late. He was here before 6 and done before 7. He took a $100 off for having it already dug out. My niece was so please, she told she had other work to be do and other people in her office were needing plumbing work and ask for his cards to take to work. He was very knowledgeable and already had the parts needed on his van. He was very pleasant.
- Charles N.

Plumbers in Hanceville, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Call Contractors LLC

1061 6th Ave NW
Alabaster

40 Years In Construction

Roebuck Springs
Birmingham

A G & Associates

1111 7th Ave W
Birmingham

A-Electrician

P.O. box 154
Hanceville

A-Towne Builders

Birmingham

Alabama Accent and Remodeling

1718 21st Ave
Calera

All Trades Inc.

5885 snowville brent rd
Dora

Amigos painting Carpentery and tile

605 central av
Fultondale

armstrong and self maintenance llc

4751 red valley rd
Remlap

B-Dry Waterproofing and Foundation Repair

143 Distribution Dr
Birmingham

Batson Enterprises Inc

23 Polly Ridge Rd
Odenville

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

2406 Valleydale Rd
Birmingham

Birmingham Home Transformations

181 Clairmont Rd
Sterrett

Blair Remodeling

2674 Valleydale Rd
Birmingham

Border's Plumbing

3632 Tall Timber Dr
Birmingham

Bussie Customs 39

395 Co RD 443
Verbena

C & G Development, Inc.

P.O. Box 424
Gardendale

Cahaba Plumbing

3990 Christopher Dr
Vestavia Hills

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north
Birmingham

Cahaba Valley Plumbing LLC

5218 Skylark Drive

Charlie's Construction

4301 Huntsville rd.
Florence

Choice Maintenance

2825 Emerald ave

Completion Specialist

1552 29th court
Birmingham

Concord plumbing

6470 Mitchell dr

Construction & Management Solutions, LLC

115 Walter Davis Dr Ste B
Birmingham

Dave's Home Improvement

626 Crumley Chapel Rd.
Birmingham

Day & Night Plumbing

533 Dunkirk Dr
Birmingham

Deca Construction

7213 Groundhog Rd
Morris

Dr Paint

43 Bearden Road
Grant

Driver Refrigeration Inc

3191 Lee St
Pelham

Eagle Eye Home Inspection

228 Garrison Rd
Gardendale

EES Energy Consulting

5821 W. Sam Houston Parkway N #400

Estes Painting

1401 Doug Baker Blvd
Birmingham

EXTREME PLUMBING

665 Tree Haven Dr
Birmingham

FILTER SERVICE COMPANY INC

3121 25th Ave
Tuscaloosa

Greg's Construction

9998 Camp Oliver Road

Greguol Coatings & Remodeling, LLC

2665 Laburnum Drive
Birmingham

Hancock Plumbing and Drain Service

920 Frontier Drive
Pelham

Home Depot

4995 Hwy 280
Birmingham

HOMES BY INDIANWOOD, INC

2116 OLD MONTGOMERY HWY
Pelham

J.C Remodeling

950 Rainwood lodge rd.
Quinton

James Construction

60 Greenleaf Cir W
Birmingham

JE Construction

1428 Smithfield Park Cir
Pleasant Grove

K&S Plumbing

228 Dunrobin Cove
Pelham

Keith The Plumber LLC

26131 State Hwy 79
Trafford

L&S Boiler Company

3028 Todd Lane
Pinson

Latta Plumbing Service

333 Decatur Hwy
Gardendale

Lawson Roofing & Remodeling

515 Old Highway 25 W
Columbiana

LOWES

5291 HIWY 280 S
Birmingham

Mashburn Plumbing

10255 Miz Rd
Remlap

Mcclellan Plumbing Inc

2205 Marion St
Hoover

MHHM Inc

1307 5th Ave SW
Alabaster

Morse Construction

290 Reid Rd
Trafford

Mr Rooter of Birmingham

2413 Jamestown Dr.
Birmingham

Mr. Rooter of Huntsville

1330 Fletcher Dr.
Huntsville

Nap & Grit Finish Company

609 10th Court South
Birmingham

NeedCo Inc

2901 18th Street South
Birmingham

North Alabama Builders

311 CR 1387
Vinemont

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

Odd Jobs

Hoover

One Hour Air Conditioning and Heating

2406 Valleydale Rd
Birmingham

ONE MAN & A TOOL BOX INC

500 Southland Dr
Hoover

Outstanding Remodeling

8328 12th Avenue S
Birmingham

Papa Richard Handyman LLC

2477 Cox Cove Road
Hayden

Patriot Plumbing

931 Catherine Street
Birmingham

Pickle Construction and Plumbing

2631 Torrance Rd
Warrior

PICKLE SEPTIC TANK & PLUMBING INC

2349 BROOKSIDE RD
Mount Olive

Plumbsouth Service LLC

591 County Road 453
Cullman

Positive Plumbing & Gas LLC

4340 VANDERBILT RD UNIT B

Precision Mechanical, Inc.

P.O. Box 34
Trussville

Preferred Plumbing & Drain Service

8740 U S Highway 31
Hanceville

PRO CONSTRUCTION LLC

1104 DUNNAVANT VALLEY RD
Birmingham

Pro Handy Man Services

1542 Buget Ln
Mount Olive

REALITY HOMES

2764 PIEDMONT DR
Helena

Reed's plumbing Inc

1257 24th Ave

Rent A Hubby

1817 Red Oak Place

RV Shop

6814 Sunny Dell Dr
Bessemer

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2524 Commerce Square W
Irondale

Sewage Equipment Sales & Service Inc

2643 Chandalar Cir
Pelham

Sharp Remodeling Birmingham

4691 Trussville Clay Road

Southern Contracting Services

5638 Littleton Kilgore Rd.
Dora

Southern Leak Detection

1 Perimeter Park S, Suite 100-N
Birmingham

Southern Renovations & Construction, LLC

5235 Pinson Valley Parkway
Pinson

Southern Strong Roofing

6500 River Place Blvd., Austin, TX 78730......&...
Birmingham

STEGALL MECHANICAL LLC

2800 5th Ave South
Birmingham

STEVE HORTON PLUMBING CO

1603 HEAD RD
Fultondale

StoneMark Construction

4581 Deer Creek Trail
Bessemer

Straight Mountain Construction & Repaird

pleasant grove road
Pleasant Grove

Streamline Home Services

PO Box 43662
Birmingham

The Plumbing Dr LLC

PO Box 711
Pelham

Tony Johnson Construction

509 Hickory Ave
Cullman

Total Home Care Solutions

136 Wild Timber pkwy
Pelham

Triple B Construction

755 County Road 15
Heflin

Trussville Construction & Roofing

9013 Weaver Ave
Birmingham

Waynes

2183 Parkway Lake Dr
Birmingham

We Heart Plumbing

704 Brookview Dr.
Gardendale

Whitfield Plumbing Co.

P O Box 209
Vandiver

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