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Fairhope Mold Removal Experts from people just like you.

"We purchased our home within the past year and my husband was removing old paneling in the basement of our home. He found a mold problem in one area of the basement." We looked on Angie's list and e-mailed
with some pictures.
responded quickly and was very helpful in answering our questions and explaining the process on the business side, plus explained to us how to safely contain the area until they could get out to assess the issue. They quickly sent out the owner,
, to assess the problem. He was very honest and genuinely interested in solving the source of the problem and safely removing the mold. Our issue was caused by a downspout that was not extended far enough away from our home, in conjunction with drywall that was affixed directly to concrete block basement. In one day,
and his crew removed all of the wood paneling, drywall, carpeting, carpet padding. They
vacuumed the entire area and our television. They wore booties, they set up a containment area and really did everything completely the right way. We could have had our furniture
vacuumed for an additional $400 but decided we'd replace instead. We paid a small extra fee for the furniture removal (I think $150-200, not included in above cost of service). Valor is affiliated with a construction company if you need help rebuilding. We did not take advantage of those services and there was no pressure whatsoever to add that on. No one wants to have a mold problem. Valor charges a fixed price - flat rate that you know ahead of time. They assume the risk of remediating it to your satisfaction, so if there is further problems uncovered, you know you are paying a flat rate. That was reassuring to us, as we knew exactly what we'd be paying. You can choose to have an outside inspection company come and test within 48 hours of them completing the job. They don't do the testing themselves because it would be a conflict of interest. Overall this is a top notch company that deals only with mold.
was truly an expert at what he does and his crew was very professional and polite and hardworking. I would recommend them to anyone that discovers mold issues in their home. They were honest, very responsive, we were able to treat and fix the issue very quickly and we have full confidence that they solved the problem. They even gave us recommendations on how to rebuild ourselves to prevent the issue from recurring.


"My insurance contracted all the companies. Our roof started leaking. Mold was discovered. The cleanup was professional & thorough.

-Rebecca and Andrew S.

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Local Articles in Fairhope


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Fairhope


Owner of company
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came over to do the inspection with an assistant. I had this done because I was having problems with allergy issues that I never had before. Did a great job going through the house and explaining some issues that might be causing some problems in the house. Was very detailed in his work and took his time and answered all my questions. I liked that he did not force his products or services on you. He wrote a detailed report took lots of pictures and from there made suggestions . Over the last year I have taken care of some of the suggestions and things have improved. I would recommend this company.
- Deboarah S.

Was quite response providing the report and answering call to request for service.
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
is a very personable person and provided good insight into where the problem areas were. Overall I was quite satisfied with the experience, expect that I have been trying to get in touch with him again after the service was provided to clarify a few questions regarding the report but I havent gotten a response. Called twice and sent a message as well. Otherwise would have rated an 'A' in all aspects.
- Jasmeet J.

Did a great job. Extremely polite and efficient. I habpvenusednthem several times for my own home and community pressure washing.
I've also used them at rental properties.
- Audrey S.

Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
showed up on time and as instructed (my property is a little confusing). He was professional, friendly and thorough, and explained everything he did during the testing. After we received the results he was helpful and responsive. Overall, the company made a potentially bad experience as pleasant as possible.
- Julie K.

Excellent in every way. No intervention was needed and the technician was professional and personable. I would definitely call them again if I had concerns about water damage or mold.
- Nancy B.

Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
correctly identified and safely removed the source of mold in our home.
He also identified other concerns such as dryer lint in the attic (a potential fire hazard), poor insulation and inadequate and dirty air conditioner ducts. He recommended gutters around the front of the house to keep
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
from eroding the pavers on our driveway (as well as keeping the
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
away from the slab).
In the months since his visit, we have had our ductwork replaced, the dryer lint removed, new insulation added and gutters installed. The room that contained the source of the mold has been remodeled. we've had no problems with mold since then. We have also benefitted from lower heating and cooling costs as well as the cessation of erosion of our pavers. Mr.
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's ability to accurately evaluate the "big picture" and make specific recommendations for intervention has resulted in a measurably better quality of life for us. His professionalism and expertise is second to none. I recommend him without hesitation.
- John R.

It was great.
Fairhope Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
responded to my voicemail within 15 minutes and came out the same day, right when he said he would. He was thorough and took the time to explain everything he was doing. I had a mold inspection in advance of buying a home and his inspection, which did not find anything problematic, put my mind at ease. I highly recommend him and would use him again.
- Kevin R.

Bill was very thorough and knowledgeable. He took the time to inspect my entire basement and answer my questions. I believe that he gave me honest answers, and I would definitely use him in the future.
- Jeffrey D.

Mold Removal Experts in Fairhope, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

About the House - Tom Sinclair

19270 Newsome Ln


7700 Congress Ave


1077 Canary Ave

American Eagle Moving & Transport

10699 Old Highway 280

Arcadia ICR

PO Box 11977


P.O. Box 233
Magnolia Springs

C&S Building and Renovations, Inc

12521 Wilsey Ln


406 Dumoine Drive

Complete DKI

3350 Halls Mill Road

Doodlebuggers Service Network

38 S. Blue Angel Parkway

Dove Services Inc

P.O. Box 47388
Gulf Shores

Energy Efficiency Services

2457 Coley Dr

Exterior Waterproofing

505 20th St N Suite 1150

FMC Mobile

12041 West Oak Court

Guardian Duct Cleaning

1602 Virginia St

Gulf Coast Air Care

206 B McClure Dr


9879 Vance Lane

Mels Remodeling LLC

4025 Young Ave Unit C


7609 140Th Pl NE

Modern Environmental Sales and Service

25299 Canal Rd B6
Orange Beach


2501 Mayes Road

Prokleen Pressure Washing

120 Pemberton Loop

Rainbow International of The Central Gulf

11141 US Highway 31 Suite D
Spanish Fort

Rolyn Companies

561 Thornton Road


2692 Salamanca St

SERVPRO of Baldwin County

7966 American Way

Sumrall Construction

6205 General Lee

Swinson Air Conditioning Co Inc

13470 J B Williams Rd

The Specialists of Indoor Air Quality LLC

361 Commercial Park Drive

W/H Construction Now

5923 Lumsden Battery Cir N

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