Fairhope Mold Remediators

in Fairhope, AL

46
Mold Remediators are
in Fairhope

8
Mold Remediators in Fairhope
are top rated

A
Rated by
Lawrence L.
"
was prompt, took a good look, and ended up charging a very affordable visit fee after finding no evidence of anything that needed remediation. He also had good" advice along the way (such as taking down non-essential drywall in a basement, since it can become a home for mold). Friendly guy; I recommend him.
A
Rated by
Lance S.
"The inspector was very through (inspection took 3 hours). He discussed what he was looking for and why. He took picture and asked questions throughout the house. He suggested that" we take a sample of mold growing on the wall along with the airborne samples. (Good thing I took his advise) The scraped sample turned out to be Stachybotrys. We decided that we did not want the house because the cleanup would be too expensive and is never a sure thing. When I asked him to recommended a company for cleanup he told me that it would be a conflict of interest to tell me. Very professional.ett
A
Rated by
Kimberly I.
"
kindly rearranged his schedule so he could do his inspection during our home inspection. The crawl space of the house we were buying had mold remediation done" and I wanted to be sure there was not an unknown mold problem elsewhere.
looked through the interior of the house and made recommendations for the exterior of the house (areas where rain water collected that needed to be diverted).
also inspected the crawl space and was very complimentary of the mold remediation that was done by another company. I could not have been more pleased with the professionalism and customer oriented attitude of
.

Local Articles in Fairhope

removing black mold

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
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Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
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Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

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Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Fairhope

A

Rating
It actually went great, the tech guy that came to do the job was very nice and extremely helpful. It was easy to set up an appointment and the problem was cleared up after a couple of days. No smell or any other types of problems since...would definitely recommend to a friend or relative. A+++
- Chris A.
A

Rating
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
quoted us promptly and efficiently and helped to keep the cost down understanding the event was not covered by insurance, JT helped us understand exactly what was needed, and
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and his helper were prompt courteous and efficient, I would recommend
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
again
- George P M.
A

Rating
I recently purchased a new home and am doing a complete remodel. In the course of removing the floor and baseboards, I noticed some areas that appeared to be moist and had what looked like mold/rot damage. The house also smelled a little musty. I wanted to get a professional opinion about what the problem might be so I called
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
at
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
.
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very professional and was able to quickly give me some advice on what I should do to investigate further. His opinion was that the damage was from an incident in the past and that it probably was not an ongoing problem. Nonetheless, he advised me on what I should do to investigate further and he even offered to look at pictures if I found anything.
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
did not charge me for his time.
I found
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
to be very professional and generous by giving me his professional opinion and advice at no charge. I will definitely be calling Absolute if I have any problems in the future and also recommend him to anyone needing a mold/water damage specialist with integrity.
- Andrew C.
A

Rating
I cannot not sing enough praises for this company.
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, the owner sat with me the first day to go over everything that would take place and explained what needed to be done. My three grandbabies were coming in two weeks and my husband is weak with severe allergies and I was so worried about the remediation process.
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
stayed in contact with me every day on the progress and
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and all of the staff were very friendly and courteous whenever I called about concerns or questions. They wore protective suits and respirator masks, they kept the area very contained and kept the air scrubbers running the entire time. They also let me keep the air scrubbers a couple extra days which I appreciated because of my grandkids and husband coming the following week and I wanted to make sure the air was healthy for them to breathe. They took down every A/C
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and hand cleaned each one, they painted the wooden studs with an antimicrobial sealer, they cleaned out the air ducts back to each AC unit (we have 3) and fogged the ducts and hand cleaned the entrance to the ducts. When they were finished , everything was cleaned up and you could hardly tell they were ever there. The price was very reasonable for everything they did. They care about their clients and go the extra mile to make sure you are well taken care of. If there was a grade higher than A+, that is what I would rate this company.
- Linda K.
A

Rating
They arrived on time. They were very professional. They tested for mold and any dampness they took air samples of the affected area and outside as a base level. I received a phone call and a lab report confirming their findings. I highly recommend them.
- James K.
A

Rating
They came days ahead of the appointment to remove the carpet and isolate the flood area to start the repair process. They showed up on time. Isolated the flood area , removed all the contaminated material including carpet , drywall, and even any wet or suspected contaminated 2x4's. They replaced the 2x4's after first using a h2o2 wash and then another antimold
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
'n. They put a sealant over that. Anything they took out of the room ,all the exercise equipment etc. they decontaminated. They were extremely neat and thorough. They left a triple
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
filter for 4 days. After the process I had the room tested by an outside source for any residual mold contamination.The results were extremely good. I highly recommend them and would use them again!
- James K.
A

Rating
Our coffee maker got backed up and overflowed from the top spilling about 5 cups onto our kitchen counter. In cleaning up the spill we discovered that it had gotten into two of our kitchen cabinets and appeared to have entered the cabinets from the back wall. Our concern was that the majority of the spill could be behind the counters and there was no good way to clean it up. I called
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and explained the situation. He wasn't concerned about the current spill but that we could have had other spills that got behind the cabinets that we weren't aware of. He said he would call me back and schedule a time that he could come over and use his monitors to determine if we had a problem that would require remediation. He called back the same day and schedule for the following day at 1pm. He actually showed up a little be earlier as he was in the area and completed the previous job ahead of schedule. He examine our cabinets and his meter showed we didn't have any issue with water collecting behind or under the cabinets. He also
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and determined that the spill made it's way into the cabinets from the sides of the cook top and the not the counter top seam.
Fairhope Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very professional and friendly. I would definitely use his services again and highly recommend his company.
- Diego C.

All Mold Remediators in Fairhope, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Alabama Property Services

2012 Southwood drive
Alabaster

About the House - Tom Sinclair

19270 Newsome Ln
Fairhope

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

American Eagle Moving & Transport

10699 Old Highway 280
Birmingham

Arcadia ICR

PO Box 11977

BioSweep

P.O. Box 233
Magnolia Springs

C&S Building and Renovations, Inc

12521 Wilsey Ln
Lillian

Clean4QUALITY

406 Dumoine Drive
Foley

Complete DKI

3350 Halls Mill Road
Mobile

Doodlebuggers Service Network

38 S. Blue Angel Parkway

DOVE SERVICES INC

684 CHICKASAW RD
Gulf Shores

Energy Efficiency Services

2457 Coley Dr
Mobile

Exterior Waterproofing

505 20th St N Suite 1115
Birmingham

FMC Mobile

12041 West Oak Court
Mobile

Guardian Duct Cleaning

1602 Virginia St
Mobile

Gulf Coast Air Care

206 B McClure Dr

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

Prokleen Pressure Washing

120 Pemberton Loop
Fairhope

Rainbow International of The Central Gulf

11141 US Highway 31 Suite D
Spanish Fort

ServPro

2692 Salamanca St

SERVPRO of Baldwin County

7966 American Way
Daphne

Sumrall Construction

6205 General Lee
Mobile

Swinson Air Conditioning Co Inc

13470 J B Williams Rd
Loxley

The Specialists of Indoor Air Quality LLC

361 Commercial Park Drive
Fairhope

W/H Construction Now

5923 Lumsden Battery Cir N
Mobile

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