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A
"Mr.
really saved my day. He is extremely smart and knows what he is doing. He is able to fix our problem in 5 minutes where as other Plumbers" took several hours but still didn't do it. I couldn't believe when
said that it's small problem, because the other plumbers told me that it's a big job and it will cost more than $1000. I am very impressed with
and with Mr.
. Thank you for saving me over $1000. I am very busy and don't have time to write these kind of reviews. But in this case I made time because I am very happy with the professional service provided. I recommend Mr.
and
to anyone.

-Arjun K.

A
"
told me on the phone that he's "not a snake guy," but I told him I thought we were beyond snakes, so he offered to take a" look. He came to the house that afternoon. He did exactly what he said he'd do.

-MARY S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Anchorage

A

Rating
I can't say enough good things about the work provided by
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his colleagues. This man is an artist. He is knowledgable, pleasant, reliable, comprehensive... you get the picture. This work is beyond compare. There isn’t a corner unsealed, a wire uncrimped, a tube unsecured or a hole unsealed. I’ve worked with countless trade contractors though three homes of various states of age and construction. This work has no peer. Fantastic.
He found the flaws in the work of others and fixed them. He explained my options with exHAUSting detail. He helped make decisions without regard to financial gain. His pricing, after extensive research, is outSTANDing. Seriously. Look no further.
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
has also done minor plumbing and electrical work around our house. He's that guy. You need his number.
- Hugh E.
F

Rating
Spoke to a central answering service that stated that they would be able to come to my location. I was given a phone number for the local office when I called some guy answered but I could barely hear him and it was like a "ya" instead of a professional " Rooter Rooter how can I help" answer. Then he was less than interested in anything I had to say and just said can't help you we don't go to your location. I tried to say that the central answering service said they did he just said "don't know what to tell you we don't" bye. then hung up on me.
- Wayne T.
A

Rating
These people were punctual, polite and professional. I couldn't have asked for better service. I would heartily recommend them to anyone. The tech came in and went to work immediately and didn't stop or slow down until the job was completed. I appreciate the excellent service and will keep them in mind for any further plumbing problems that come up.
- CAROL F.
A

Rating
I called
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, because I had noticed rust and white material around screws in my toilet tank. Mr.
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
checked my tank and told me that the rust around the screws was normal, and the white material around the screws was only a seal. He told me that he would not feel right charging me for this service call because nothing needed to be fixed.
Mr.
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
is a very honest man, who could of replaced whatever in my tank, and charged me for unnecessary work. I will definitely call him in the future for any plumbing issues that I might have.
- Jeanne B.
A

Rating
The Plumber
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
of
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was professional, friendly and truly competent. I would recommend this company and especially
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
without any reservation and I would use them for any plumbing needs in the future. Thank you
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and Thanks to Angie Lists.
- Richard S.
A

Rating
The leak was found quickly. They were late for the appointment but they kept me informed of what was going on. They are extremely knowledgeable and understand how to work in a high-rise building. Additionally they understand about the Chicago building codes. There was no mess for me to clean after they left. They were also good at explaining what was going on in laymen's terms. I made a good choice.
I would highly recommend them to anyone who needs help finding a leak or other plumbing repairs.
- Robbin C.
A

Rating
Very pleased with the responsiveness - ordered on Sunday, received a call on Monday. Appt made for Tuesday. The technician had to come back to complete the job, and did so in a timely manner. Overall very pleased so far with the service.
- Susan B.
A

Rating
Anchorage Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his crew are top notch. Expert workmanship, timely service, punctual, cleaned work area daily. We are so pleased with his work that we are having him back to remodel the kitchen.
- Val F.

Plumbers in Anchorage, AK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A&J Mechanical Inc

11805 Gregory Rd
Anchorage

ACE Heating Inc

2780 N Heather Mae Cir
Wasilla

ADAMS CONSTRUCTION

651 E CREEKSIDE DR
Wasilla

AIRTEMP ALASKA LLC

5406 LAKE OTIS PKWY
Anchorage

Alaska Plumbing Service

6601 Blackberry Rd
Anchorage

Alaska Sewer & Drain LLC

PO Box 221914
Anchorage

ALKOTA PLUMBING & HEATING

6189 DEBARR RD
Anchorage

alpha company

4031 Lore Rd
Anchorage

Always On Call Mountain Mechanical

1300 Winners Cir
Anchorage

An Image Builder LLC

5040 Riverton Ave
Anchorage

Anchorage Plumbing and Heating

7640 King St
Anchorage

Anchorage Property Solution

9100 Elim St
Anchorage

Anchorage Water & Wastewater Utility

3000 Arctic Blvd
Anchorage

Annesi Plumbing and Heating

3601 Spinnaker Dr
Anchorage

Arctic Chain Plumbing & Heating

1200 E 76th Ave
Anchorage

Arctic Restoration

3705 Arctic Blvd
Anchorage

Bighorn Remodeling & Repair LLC

PO Box 671462
Eagle River

Bill's Handyman Services

5600 Lk. Otis Parkway
Anchorage

BRS Svc

355 W 34th Ave
Anchorage

BRUIN ENTERPRISES

200 W 34TH AVE
Anchorage

Burton Repair

Anchorage

Cassidy's Plumbing & Heating

6651 Wes Wy
Anchorage

Central Plumbing & Heating Inc

212 E International Airport Rd
Anchorage

Chugach Sewer & Drain

3317 Jerde Cir
Anchorage

Circle Plumbing & Heating Inc

2317 Raspberry Rd
Anchorage

Cornerstone Remodel & Design

601 w.58th
Anchorage

CURRY'S DRAIN CLEANING-STEAM

5821 TONGA ST
Anchorage

CWM Services

9580 Carlson Rd
Anchorage

D H Plumbing & Heating Inc

7741 King St
Anchorage

D'S DIVERSIFIED SVC

15201 W Drowsy Dr
Big Lake

DENALI HVAC INC

1300 E 68TH AVE
Anchorage

Denali Sewer & Drain

2835 Rose St
Anchorage

Diamond Standard LLC

PO Box 877389
Wasilla

DISCOUNT MECHANICAL HEATING

500 W 41st
Anchorage

Down Home Repairs

2809 Klamath Drive
Anchorage

Drain Masters Inc

9138 Arlon St
Anchorage

Dry Out Systems of Alaska Inc

521 W 41st Ave
Anchorage

Eureka Services

12408 Winterpark Cir
Eagle River

Extreme Heating & Air Inc.

17141 N. Eagle River Loop Rd.
Eagle River

First Class Plumbing And Heating LLC

7861 Cox Drive
Anchorage

FM2 Inc.

1451 E Parks Hwy
Wasilla

Fusion Plumbing

10125 Baffin Street
Eagle River

Ghosh Psychiatric Services LLC

6407 Brayton Dr Ste 100
Anchorage

Good's Repair

3307 Boniface Pkwy
Anchorage

H & M Plumbing And Heating

PO Box 222225
Anchorage

Hale Construction

15161 E. Mallow Circle
Palmer

Handy Tom's

Anchorage

Handyman Services of North America

6115 Chevigny Street #1
Anchorage

HOME DEPOT INC

400 RODEO PL
Anchorage

ISAACS PUMPING SVC

6218 Quinhagak St
Anchorage

Jensen Construction

3307 Boniface Pkwy
Anchorage

Johnathan Enterprises

10730 Constitution St.
Anchorage

Klebs Mechanical Inc

1107 E 72nd Ave
Anchorage

LIBBY THAWING SVC

2525 W 69TH CT
Anchorage

Lindemann's Services

7410 Solarset Cir
Anchorage

Lorenzo Enterprises

8051 Jesters Pl
Anchorage

M & J Builders

PO Box 232514
Anchorage

Maintenance Man

4502 Mc Phee Avenue #1
Anchorage

Moore Heating and Cooling

1801 E Dowling Rd
Anchorage

MOUNTAIN TOPS LTD

6605 ARCTIC SPUR RD
Anchorage

My Good Handyman

1922 Logan St
Anchorage

North Country Builders of AK, Inc

3435 N Daisy Petal Cir
Wasilla

North Star Septic LLC

159 W Canterbury Dr
Wasilla

Nu Flow Alaska

1301 E 71st Avenue
Anchorage

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

One Stop Services Inc

7654 Old Harbor Ave
Anchorage

Oyster Construction

5003 Nottingham Wy
Anchorage

Partusch Plumbing & Heating Inc

8301 Schoon St
Anchorage

Patrick SOS Plumbing & Heating

2301 CHANDALAR DR
Anchorage

Paxton Plumbing & Heating

12801 Huffman Cir
Anchorage

PINNACLE MECHANICAL INC

5821 ARCTIC BLVD
Anchorage

Plumbing & Heating Doctor, Inc.

1025 Coville Lane
Palmer

Polar Maintenance

8661 Flamingo Dr
Anchorage

Preferred Plumbing & Heating

335 Main St Loop
Kenai

Quality Handyman Services Inc

13479 E Highbush Cir
Palmer

Quality Home Services

18634 S Lowrie Loop
Eagle River

Re-Bath of Anchorage

6623 Brayton Drive
Anchorage

Residential Plumbing & Heating

PO Box 871905
Wasilla

Rock Engineering

4333 Butte Cir
Anchorage

Roto-Rooter - Anchorage

6100 Cordova
Anchorage

Sani-Therm

7374 N False Pass Cir
Wasilla

Slayden Plumbing & Heating Inc

3230 E. Palmer/Wasilla Highway
Wasilla

South Central Plumbing & Heating

3419 Jerde Cir
Anchorage

Statewide Mechanical

22750 McManus Dr
Chugiak

SUMMIT MECHANICAL PLUMBING HTG

2927 WESLEYAN DR
Anchorage

The Handy Hubby

5931 Keyann Circle
Anchorage

The Plumbing And Heating Co

8411 Airport Blvd
Juneau

The Renovation Co

PO Box 13204
Trapper Creek

TMS Construction

7134 Clemens Cir
Eagle River

Tony's Enterprises

7239 O'Brien St
Anchorage

Tub Renu

PO Box 111338
Anchorage

Vindean Contracting LLC

PO Box 90260
Anchorage

Workman Construction LLC

4228 West Memory Dr
Wasilla

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