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F
"The service technician was very punctual and did a great job diagnosing my furnace. Although he did not offer to provide space heaters for the weekend, upon calling" the office to request heaters, I was provided with two. After doing research into the warranty on my unit it turned out that my furnace and the part that broke was covered under an enhanced parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer. The company was very misinformed as to what the warranty covered and refused to provide me service under the enhanced warranty even though their website claims they are a factory authorized dealer. Due to the company's ignorance and complete disregard for customer service or doing the right thing, I was obligated to write this review and inform other potential customers to beware.

-Michael P.

A
"Went great did not have heat in our child's room. came promptly and did some of the best work that I have ever seen (I work with contractors" daily). Attention to detail was most important.Mo, and did were some of the hardest workers and fast that I have seen, never sacrificing quality. A plus roofing and Spartan electric came in to assist and also didn't disappoint with the same quality as AA plumbing. You won't be disappointed.

-Andre B.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

Plumber reviews in Anchorage

D

Rating
Tech did not explain anything to me, instead just kept giving these huge quotes. I was supposed to replace toilet valves that were not even broken since the malfunctioning inlet valve-pvr may have damaged them- 4 toilets at $300.00 a pop-who has that kind of money?
I have had several plumbing stuff done through the years and this is my worst experience ...More simply getting a quote. It was a complete waste of my time and money. Will never use them again
- kadiyala R.
A

Rating
They were very responsive, punctual on the day of appointment and the tech did an excellent job. Willing to work with me unanticipated additional work. I would definitely use them again. Excellent experience!
- Daniel M.
A

Rating
It went well. He worked quietly and efficiently and did a great job. Price seemed kind of high but then it is always expensive to have work done for you.
- Scott B.
D

Rating
Not good. First of all he said that Angie's list was a crock and he did not want to use the deal that I had purchased. I purchased the $25.00 for $75.00 worth of work. He talked with his company and he did let me use it but he charge me $215.00. I paid the $25.00 he took off $75.00 . The total cost was $290.00. I think that was way to much just ...More to change out a kitchen faucet. I had to have him change the faucet because he put it on wrong with the on and off lever on the left side. He said whoever put it on was wrong but they were not and he did change it. Then he did not have it tighten down when he went out to write up the bill and the faucet was sideways and I had to ask him to fix it. Do not use this deal. Think he just thought he could get away with it since I am a widow. I am sure Router Rooter have better employees but this one was horrible. If you are in the Gastonia, NC area do NOT use this deal.
- Janice J.
A

Rating
I called Roto Rooter at 4:55pm, the 9th plumber in the area I tried. They were the first to actually answer the phone, and even better, they said they could have a plumber to my house within 2 hours. Even better, they called back in 5 minutes and said someone would be at my house within 30 minutes. Hard to beat that!
...More Green was the name of the plumber who actually came. He was fast, professional, polite, and knowledgeable. Fixed two problems in no time at all. Strongly recommend.
- Timothy E.
A

Rating
Great. Arrived within an hour of initial call and drove off within a 1/2 hr after arriving (with job completed).
- Ian E.
D

Rating
We called when we noticed sewage leaking into our basement on a Saturday in mid-August. Ended up scheduling a plumber to come the following week. While I admit our job was somewhat challenging-- there's no access point to our sewer line from our basement, so they had to go in via our catch basin to clear the line as a quick ...More fix. They cemented over a hole in our basement leading to the sewer where the leak was occurring. They said they'd get back to us with an estimate on a more comprehensive fix-- which included digging up our basement floor and adding an access point.
Months went by and we never heard from them. I called back in late October, and their office couldn't find any record of our job. Eventually, the office had the plumber who came to our house, who said he needed to come back with a camera to assess damage in the sewer line before he could give us an estimate. I was leaving on vacation, so I arranged for a friend to meet the plumber so they could camera in and provide an estimate. They showed up, looked around, and did not use camera or provide any written estimate.
After two visits with no estimate and no fix, I've given up on -- another plumber came out tonight and was able to assess the situation and provide an estimate on the spot, able to complete work by the end of this week. I'll take that over waiting another month and chasing down for a job they clearly must not want.
- Margaret S.
A

Rating
My niece had water standing beside the house and had called several plumber out to find and fix. They gave several quotes and guess too the problem. I was visiting and dug it up and found the problem. Called several plumber and all were booked up. Called 's at 5pm and the lady that answered was very pleasant. I asked ...More if it could be repaired tonight. She said wait a moment and very shortly came back that someone could be there between 5:30 and 6:30pm and I said that would be great. called a little before 5:30 that was running a little late. He was here before 6 and done before 7. He took a $100 off for having it already dug out. My niece was so please, she told she had other work to be do and other people in her office were needing plumbing work and ask for his cards to take to work. He was very knowledgeable and already had the parts needed on his van. He was very pleasant.
- Charles N.

Plumbers in Anchorage, AK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A to Z Handyman Services

145 Rusty Allen Pl
Anchorage

A Touch of Class

PO Box 211046
Anchorage

A&J Mechanical Inc

11805 Gregory Rd
Anchorage

ACE Heating Inc

2780 N Heather Mae Cir
Wasilla

ADAMS CONSTRUCTION

651 E CREEKSIDE DR
Wasilla

Affordable Construction

2907 Turnagain St
Anchorage

AIRTEMP ALASKA LLC

5406 LAKE OTIS PKWY
Anchorage

Alaska Plumbing Service

6601 Blackberry Rd
Anchorage

Alaska Sewer & Drain LLC

PO Box 221914
Anchorage

ALKOTA PLUMBING & HEATING

6189 DEBARR RD
Anchorage

alpha company

4031 Lore Rd
Anchorage

Always On Call Mountain Mechanical Corp

1300 Winners Cir
Anchorage

An Image Builder LLC

5040 Riverton Ave
Anchorage

Anchorage Plumbing and Heating

7640 King St
Anchorage

Anchorage Property Solution

9100 Elim St
Anchorage

Anchorage Water & Wastewater Utility

3000 Arctic Blvd
Anchorage

Annesi Plumbing and Heating

3601 Spinnaker Dr
Anchorage

Arctic Chain Plumbing & Heating

1200 E 76th Ave
Anchorage

Arctic Restoration

3705 Arctic Blvd
Anchorage

Atom Services

2221 Muldoon
Anchorage

Bell Plumbing & Heating Inc

1327 E 75th Ave
Anchorage

Best Inspection, Inc.

2440 E Tudor Road #401
Anchorage

Bighorn Remodeling & Repair LLC

PO Box 671462
Eagle River

Bill's Handyman Services

5600 Lk. Otis Parkway
Anchorage

BRS Svc

355 W 34th Ave
Anchorage

BRUIN ENTERPRISES

200 W 34TH AVE
Anchorage

Burton Repair

Anchorage

Cassidy's Plumbing & Heating

6651 Wes Wy
Anchorage

Central Plumbing & Heating Inc

212 E International Airport Rd
Anchorage

Chugach Sewer & Drain

3317 Jerde Cir
Anchorage

Circle Plumbing & Heating Inc

2317 Raspberry Rd
Anchorage

Cool Air Mechanical, Inc.

6132 Nielsen Way
Anchorage

Cornerstone Remodel & Design

601 w.58th
Anchorage

CURRY'S DRAIN CLEANING-STEAM

5821 TONGA ST
Anchorage

CWM Services

9580 Carlson Rd
Anchorage

D H Plumbing & Heating Inc

7741 King St
Anchorage

D'S DIVERSIFIED SVC

15201 W Drowsy Dr
Big Lake

DENALI HVAC INC

1300 E 68TH AVE
Anchorage

Denali Sewer & Drain

2835 Rose St
Anchorage

Diamond Standard LLC

PO Box 877389
Wasilla

Down Home Repairs

4000 Taft Drive
Anchorage

Drain Masters Inc

9138 Arlon St
Anchorage

Dry Out Systems of Alaska Inc

521 W 41st Ave
Anchorage

Elevate Construction LLC

PO Box 240732
Anchorage

Eureka Services

12408 Winterpark Cir
Eagle River

Extreme Heating & Air Inc.

17141 N. Eagle River Loop Rd.
Eagle River

First Class Plumbing And Heating LLC

7861 Cox Drive
Anchorage

FM2 Inc.

1451 E Parks Hwy
Wasilla

Fusion Plumbing

10125 Baffin Street
Eagle River

Ghosh Psychiatric Services LLC

6407 Brayton Dr Ste 100
Anchorage

Good's Repair

3307 Boniface Pkwy
Anchorage

H & M Plumbing And Heating

PO Box 222225
Anchorage

Hale Construction

16156 Mallow Cir.
Palmer

Handy Tom's

Anchorage

Handyman Services of North America

6115 Chevigny Street #1
Anchorage

HOME DEPOT INC

400 RODEO PL
Anchorage

ISAACS PUMPING SVC

6218 Quinhagak St
Anchorage

Jensen Construction

3307 Boniface Pkwy
Anchorage

Johnathan Enterprises

10730 Constitution St.
Anchorage

K and N Construction LLC

po box 3056
Palmer

Klebs Mechanical Inc

1107 E 72nd Ave
Anchorage

LIBBY THAWING SVC

2525 W 69TH CT
Anchorage

Lindemann's Services

7410 Solarset Cir
Anchorage

Lorenzo Enterprises

8051 Jesters Pl
Anchorage

M & J Builders

PO Box 232514
Anchorage

Maintenance Man

4502 Mc Phee Avenue #1
Anchorage

Moore Heating and Cooling

1801 E Dowling Rd
Anchorage

MOUNTAIN TOPS LTD

6605 ARCTIC SPUR RD
Anchorage

My Good Handyman

1922 Logan St
Anchorage

North Country Builders of AK, Inc

3435 N Daisy Petal Cir
Wasilla

North Star Septic LLC

159 W Canterbury Dr
Wasilla

Nu Flow Alaska

1301 E 71st Avenue
Anchorage

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

One Stop Services Inc

7654 Old Harbor Ave
Anchorage

Oyster Construction

5003 Nottingham Wy
Anchorage

Partusch Plumbing & Heating Inc

8301 Schoon St
Anchorage

Patrick SOS Plumbing & Heating

2301 CHANDALAR DR.
Anchorage

Paxton Plumbing & Heating

12801 Huffman Cir
Anchorage

PINNACLE MECHANICAL INC

5821 ARCTIC BLVD
Anchorage

Plumbing & Heating Doctor, Inc.

1025 Coville Lane
Palmer

Polar Maintenance

8661 Flamingo Dr
Anchorage

Preferred Plumbing & Heating

335 Main St Loop
Kenai

Pro Drain

905 Muldoon Rd
Anchorage

Quality Handyman Services Inc

13479 E Highbush Cir
Palmer

Quality Home Services

18634 S Lowrie Loop
Eagle River

R&S Plumbing And Heating

11723 Old Glenn Hwy
Eagle River

Re-Bath of Anchorage

6623 Brayton Drive
Anchorage

Residential Plumbing & Heating

PO Box 871905
Wasilla

Rock Engineering

4333 Butte Cir
Anchorage

Roto-Rooter - Anchorage

6100 Cordova
Anchorage

Sani-Therm

7374 N False Pass Cir
Wasilla

Security Support Services LLC

8310 Dagan St
Anchorage

Slayden Plumbing & Heating Inc

3230 E. Palmer/Wasilla Highway
Wasilla

South Central Plumbing & Heating

3419 Jerde Cir
Anchorage

Statewide Mechanical

22750 McManus Dr
Chugiak

Steadfast Home Repair and Services

10726 Old Eagle River Road
Eagle River

SUMMIT MECHANICAL PLUMBING HTG

2927 WESLEYAN DR
Anchorage

The Handy Hubby

5931 Keyann Circle
Anchorage

The Plumbing And Heating Co

8411 Airport Blvd
Juneau

The Renovation Co

PO Box 13204
Trapper Creek

TMS Construction

7134 Clemens Cir
Eagle River

Tony's Enterprises

7239 O'Brien St
Anchorage

Tub Renu

PO Box 111338
Anchorage

Viking Plumbing & Heating

7721 Ingram St.
Anchorage

Vindean Contracting LLC

PO Box 90260
Anchorage

Workman Construction LLC

4228 West Memory Dr
Wasilla

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