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A
"The back of my 1926 bungalow began to sag because a joist had broken. the floor was almost an inch below where it was originally.
came" out gave me an estimate $350 - $400 for one adjustable pier. other companies i had come out wanted to do anywhere between 5 and 7 piers for more that $1500.
explained everything that they would do and why my house was sagging. 2 days later the worker showed up did his thing, jacked up my house and it was good as new. it only took about an hour i was amazed how fast it was. here it is almost a year later and the work has stood the test of time.

-travis O.

A
"They were very professional and communicated the entire process extremely well. They provided detailed reports on what they would have to do and how long it would" take. They were right on in every aspect. They took the time to discuss what the process would be like and helped us get through the insurance and payment process as painlessly as possible.

-JANICE G.

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Local Articles in Tampa

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Tampa

F

Rating
I called the company four times total over the course of two months. I left two voicemail messages and one with the secretary. The fourth time I complained and she sent a representative to the property. The rep didn't attempt to collect for the estimate or tell me would be done next. A week later I called and he said he forgot to get to my "job". He said he would email the estimate to me that day. I did not get the estimate that day or that week. The following week I called and talked to the secretary. She said she would page him and call me back. I called back 3 hours later. She hadn't heard from him but she assured me she would call me as soon as she heard. That was two days ago. I still haven't hear from that company. No services beyond the rep coming over occurred!
- jason G.
A

Rating
Everything was fantastic. From the scheduling right on through to the actual appointment, everyone was very courteous and professional. The fact that there was no charge for the assessment was astonishing. The engineer who performed the work,
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, actually works out of the company's Mississippi office. He was very well versed on his area of expertise and explained things in
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, easy to understand terms. Overall, just a great experience and a very positive outcome. They did have to postpone the original appointment but were very apologetic and accommodated another time and day that was convenient for me as well as timely. Thank you!!
- TERENCE M.
A

Rating
We were in the process of selling our home. There were some settlement cracks on one side of the property, that were there when we bought the property in 2005. The previous owners had an engineer come out to visually assess them. The new buyers wanted the same report, only from this year.
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was able to come out the very next day and complete the inspection. He was able to get to me an email version of the report the day after that, which I forwarded to the buyers. He placed in the mail the same day that he emailed me the report the versions with the engineer's seal, which the buyers wanted at closing.
He was very communicative and professional in the entire process. Highly recommend!
- Patrizia T.
A

Rating
It went great!
He came out explained why this was occuring and removed the "fear" instilled by previous inspection I had from another company. He explained that the issues I've been having although major to me, were not the type of things that would cause horrific consequences. He explained what steps I could take as a home owner to slow the process of the slab displacements that were occuring and gave me a head's up what I would need to do long term.
- Susan V.
B

Rating
They did a great job leveling. It required the addition of more piers than originally estimated, though this did not negatively impact the price. All the permitting was done and everything was inspected. The house was leveled beautifully and everything went as described in advance.
The one problem I ran into is that they damaged a portion of my air conditioning ductwork while crawling through the crawl space under the house. I wouldn't have otherwise known, but my A/C guy had to go under there for an unrelated projected and told me what had happened. (He had been under the house previously and inspected the ductwork; the damage was not pre-existing.) The owner did subsequently fix it to the satisfaction of my A/C guy, but he wasn't very communicative with me through that process.
- Tom D.
F

Rating
The roof was not installed according to manufacturers guidelines. Due to the odd appearance of the roof Hill. County inspectors refused to sign off on the final inspection. There is a clause at the county that the Roofing Company is allowed to hire their Engineer to sign off on the job if the county refuse to sign off.
Rhino has a working relationship with
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. and hired him to sign off and submit the correct paper work to the county. The first heavy rain the roof leaked and the next door neighbor roof who also had hired Rhino Roofing and thus
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
signing off on it leaked as well. This is now slowly moving towards the courts but it has been a mess so with all the honest engineers out there DO NOT HIRE
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
.
- Patricia Y.
D

Rating
I was impressed by their website. (I can't find them listed anymore. Perhaps they went out of business?)
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
came out to the house, looked at the damage under my kitchen sink, and said he could repair it. I needed structural support from below - house has crawl space - very easy to move around. He quoted me $6,000.00. I was overwhelmed. He then said he could also do it for $3,000. By the time it was all over, I had paid him $4,000 for shoddy work. He broke a water line during the repair. I am going to
Tampa Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
him and the company.
- jena A.

Structural Engineers in Tampa

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & F Construction Inc

1121 W Price Blvd # 13
North Port

A B DESIGN GROUP

410 S WARE BLVD
Tampa

A J SANCHEZ CONSULTING ENGNRS

3825 HENDERSON BLVD
Tampa

A.B. Schrader Engineers

8155 34th Ave. N.
St. Petersburg

AGC Renovations

6790 New Tampa Hwy, STE 209
Lakeland

AKO Framing & Construction, Inc

468 Waterfall Dr
Spring Hill

All Aluminum Technical

1605 Marianne Ln

ALLTECH STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING

2610 N 32ND ST
Tampa

Artisan Operations, LLC.

11563 57th St Cir E
Parrish

Avery Construction Design Consulting INC

611 S. Ft. Harrison Ave
Clearwater

AWARD ENGINEERING INC

7804 N FLORIDA AVE
Tampa

AXIAL ENGINEERING, LLC

7345 International Pl
Sarasota

AYRES ASSOCIATES

8875 HIDDEN RIVER PKWY
Tampa

Biller Reinhart Structural Group, Inc.

3434 Colwell Ave Ste 100
Tampa

Bracken Engineering

2701 W. Busch Blvd.
Tampa

BTL Engineering Services, Inc.

5802 N Occident St
Tampa

C STORE MAINTENANCE INC

PO Box 12468
Brooksville

Carotti Engineering LLC

P.O. Box 1400
Oneco

CH2M HILL OMI

3602 W WATERS AVE
Tampa

Champion Foundation Repair

8504 E Adamo Dr
Tampa

Crump Engineering, Inc.

1112 W Carmen St
Tampa

CSC ENGINEERING & CONSTRCTN

PO Box 16475
Tampa

DELTA ENGINEERS

201 TAMPA CITY CTR
Tampa

E C DRIVER & ASSOC

500 N West Shore Blvd Ste 500
Tampa

e-construction group Inc.

8601 4th Street N.
Saint Petersburg

EB'S DRAFTING & BLUEPRINTING

4012 CORTEZ RD W
Bradenton

ECT

1408 N WEST SHORE BLVD
Tampa

ELEMENT ENGINEERING GROUP

1713 E 9th Ave
Tampa

ENVIRONMENTAL SOLUTIONS INC

PO BOX 18101
Tampa

Eva Claire Corp

4613 West North A St
Tampa

FERLITA ENGINEERING INC

4221 N FLORIDA AVE
Tampa

Fleet Concrete Inc

14914 CASEY ROAD
Tampa

Florida Highland Design

365 E. Main Street
Bartow

G A NICHOLS CO

5775 126th Ave N
Clearwater

G M ARCADIS

14055 RIVEREDGE DR
Tampa

GE POWER GENERATION

4300 W CYPRESS ST
Tampa

GeoView Inc

4610 Central Avenue
St. Petersburg

GESC, LLC.

3617 S. Himes Ave.
Tampa

Gingerich Glass & Aluminum

237 Interstate Blvd
Sarasota

GLOBAL FIRE ENGINEERING PA

8450 LINGER LODGE RD
Tampa

GOLDER ASSOCIATES INC

5100 W Lemon St Ste 208
Tampa

GRAY-CALHOUN & ASSOC

2909 W BAY TO BAY BLVD
Tampa

GREELEY & HANSEN LLC

1715 N WEST SHORE BLVD
Tampa

H I S Construction Design & Engineering

8875 Hidden River Pkwy
Tampa

H.A.S. Construction Solutions, Inc.

226 12th Ave NE
Saint Petersburg

HAZEN & SAWYER

10002 PRINCESS PALM AVE
Tampa

Heavenly Foundations Inc

29750 66th Way N
Clearwater

HNTB CORP

5110 EISENHOWER BLVD
Tampa

Industrial Maintenance Platforms

12545 44th St N Ste A
Clearwater

Industrial Man Lifts

1299 66th St. N
Saint Petersburg

JACOBS CARTER & BURGESS INC

400 N ASHLEY DR
Tampa

JACOBS ENGINEERING GROUP INC

201 N Franklin St Ste 1400
Tampa

Judy's Permit Service

14903 Northwood Village Ln
Tampa

keith kinard construction

14301 sweat loop rd
Wimauma

Kenneally Structural Engineer

25434 Seven Rivers Cir
Land O Lakes

Kettles Marine Construction

11205 8th St E
Saint Petersburg

laszlo construction llc

2820 west bay avenue
Tampa

LCM Engineering PLLC

5294 Summerlin Commons Way
Ft Myers

LEAP ASSOC INTL INC

11307 N 52ND ST
Tampa

LEAP SOFTWARE INC

11602 N 51ST ST
Tampa

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

MACTEC

4919 W LAUREL ST
Tampa

MALCOLM PIRNIE INC

14025 Riveredge Dr Ste 600
Tampa

MASTER CONSULTING ENGINEERS

5523 W CYPRESS ST
Tampa

Matt Construction

2702 Alton Rd .
Miami Beach

METALMAX Buildings, Inc.

PO Box 465
Ruskin

MOBIUS Architecture

313 Park Blvd
Oldsmar

Mott's Contracting Services, Inc

23110 State Road 54
Lutz

NOAH INDUSTRIAL CONSTRUCTION

PO Box 272807
Tampa

NOVA ENGINEERING & ENVIRON

1226 Tech Blvd
Tampa

PARSONS BRINCKERHOFF

2202 N West Shore Blvd Ste 300
Tampa

PCM ENGINEERING

5923 Jefferson Park Dr
Tampa

Phipps Design

15137 Deer Meadow Dr
Lutz

Pinnacle Construction Services LLC

4792 Ridgemoor Cir
Palm Harbor

PJK Inc.

16311 Tiger Trail
Spring Hill

PROTURN Property Solutions

634 Blue Taverna Ln
Clearwater

PSI

5801 BENJAMIN CENTER DR
Tampa

Quality &Trust

3112 44th ave north
Saint Petersburg

RamJack

16646 Scheer Blvd
Hudson

RAMMS ENGINEERING INC

5340 NORTHDALE BLVD
Tampa

RCT Disaster Recovery LLC

312 E Harrison Street
Tampa

Schultz Builders, Inc. and Schultz Pools, Inc.

1950 Central Ave
Saint Petersburg

SCS ENGINEERS

4041 PARK OAKS BLVD
Tampa

SDI ENVIRONMENTAL SVC

3903 PREMIER NORTH DR
Tampa

SEA INC

13930 LYNMAR BLVD
Tampa

Senyb Engineering Services

318 South Scenic Hwy, Ste. 100
Lake Wales

ServiceMaster Clean

7840 Professional Pl
Tampa

Shorette Company LLC

PO BOX 926
Lake Hamilton

Structural Engineering and Inspections, Inc

16105 North Florida Ave, Suite B
Lutz

STRUCTURAL RESTORATION INC

4532 W KENNEDY BLVD
Tampa

STRUCTURES ONE

13051 W Linebaugh Ave Ste 101
Tampa

Suncoast Irrigation

9831 Hickman Ln
Port Richey

SURFACE CITY INC.

2398 COMMERCIAL WAY
Spring Hill

Tampa Bay Contracting Co LLC

235 Apollo Beach Blvd.
Apollo Beach

TAMPA ENGINEERING WAREHOUSE

9332 FLORIDA PALM DR
Tampa

The Avanti Group, Inc

1920 N US Highway 301
Tampa

TIERRA INC

7805 PROFESSIONAL PL
Tampa

TL Hill Construction

2261 Sarasota Center Blvd
Sarasota

Todd N. McLeod, P.E.

6409 Garden Ave
West Palm Beach

UNIVERSAL ENGINEERING SCIENCES

9802 PALM RIVER RD
Tampa

us design and construction

25218 Bunting Cir
Land O'lakes

Validus Engineering Group, LLC

3612 Blossom Country Trail
Plant City

VOLKERT & ASSOC INC

3409 W LEMON ST
Tampa

WADSWORTH O'NEAL & BACIK ENGR

9950 PRINCESS PALM AVE
Tampa

WALTER P MOORE & ASSOC

201 E KENNEDY BLVD
Tampa

WISDOM STRUCTURAL

204 N HOWARD AVE
Tampa

Wood's Custom Buildings

37511 kossik road
Zephyrhills

YD West Coast Home. INC

2505 W Douglas St
Tampa

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