Saint Paul Lumber Stores

in Saint Paul, MN

557
Lumber Stores are
in Saint Paul

42
Lumber Stores in Saint Paul
are top rated

A
Rated by
STEVEN D.
"The store is clean despite an inventory that invites dust and grime. Most items are accessible to shoppers; staff will help if you need assistance reaching an item. I was able to purchase" a ducted range hood in near-new condition (no grease or scratches) for $15 and a piece of
Fir casing for $5. Staining brand-new casing alone would have cost at least $5 in wood and stain; this was already done, matched what was in the house, and required only ripping to fit. :-) This is the place to find unusual items like glass drawer pulls, corner toilets, stained-glass windows from older houses (and
), and odd construction materials (like a barn cupola or bamboo poles which could be used for fencing or as a room divider or garden accent). The good stuff seems to move fairly quickly, but you may need just the piece that's there.
B
Rated by
ANDY D.
"Overall the experience was ok. We worked with
on the design and picking out the right cabinets and countertops. He was great, easy to work with, patient, lots" of great ideas and suggestions. He really made the extra effort. The first issue we had was with the detailed measurements-the person who came in was in the house for five minutes to say that everything we had would work. I found about four things he overlooked and required changing after the order was placed. The cabinets are then shipped directly to the customer, so they went in our garage. We notified Lowe's that they were there and it took a week to get the inspection scheduled. When we tried to set the install date, we could not get a call back-when we finally did three weeks later, they said they did not know we had the cabinets(which they already inspected). After the installation date was set, the rest went smoothly-the installation of both the cabinets and countertops. Although there was the scheduling issues, we are still satisfied overall, and working with them, was much better than our experiences with their competition.
A
Rated by
SUSIE K.
"This young man is the epitome of customer service. I have been to the store looking for other things, and he always cheerfully takes the time and makes the greatest effort to solve" your problem - no matter how small it is!

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?
There are two sides to this and everyone will have an opinion.  I can tell you that from a contractor's point of view a customer that is up front with me is much easier to work with and the entire experience is much more pleasurable to all parties involved.  If you treat your contractor like there's always something to hide from him expect the same in return.  A good contractor is going to take your budget into consideration and make recommendations based on that budget.  When possible, he's going to estimate the work 10-20% under your target to leave room for the unexpected.  With any remodeling work, there's always the possibility and likelihood that there will be surprises that will have to be added such as mold damage, improper existing framing, etc.  The cushion allows room for the project cost to grow without going over your budget.  If no problems are found and you decide to spend that money some of the final finishes can be upgraded or other projects added.

Another good arguement for disclosing your budget to your contractor is to save you both some time and aggrevation.  You may have a $10,000 budget and want $30,000 worth of work.  Wouldn't you like to know your desires aren't possible before you get your hopes up or spend money on design fees for plans you can't afford?  Likewise, the contractor doesn't want to put in the hours of calculating the estimate only to find out it was all for nothing or that he has to refigure for a much lower cost after pricing what you specified.

Be fair and honest with your contractor if you expect the same respect in return.  You'll get a lot more out of it with the right contractor.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
San Antonio, TX
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!
?
Yes, you can ask for these items.  Second Century Homes answered your question well - most contractors do not do a break down to prevent haggling on items that shouldn't be part of the discussion.  People sometimes forget to allow the builder to make money. . .  Builders also want the entire job, not the nickle and dime menu selected items - you may find the contractor says "Thanks, but no thanks" if you ask them to remove portions of the work.

The real question is why do you need this break down?  If you are thinking you will do the demo yourself to save money, you can certainly tell your contractor this - but I would be willing to bet once you buy or rent the tools, haul the trash to the correct disposal dump (many trash dumps will not take home building materials anymore) and clean up / prep for the new work - you will have spent more and delayed the project more than just letting the professionals do it. Plus, do not be surprised when they still have to do additional demo work that you didn't know would be needed to complete the job, etc.

Also keep in mind that cutting portions of the work out of the job to do later is not a money saving move.  You will find that the cost for the individual items go up when done seperately - the contractor has to come back multiple times, has to set the equipment back up, possibly pull seperate permits, schedule the work crew / subs, etc.

If you are asking for the break down to compare bids, then again, tell the contractors what numbers you want to see.  If you are doing it because you feel the total price is too high, have a discussion with your contractor; they may be able to suggest ways to save costs, etc.  Ultimately if you know the materail costs, and have the total figure, you can do a pretty good estimate of the percentage for labor and profit in the job.

It is your project and your contract, so you can ask for anything you want on the quote - just be clear on why you want the information so the contractor can work with you.

Good luck!

Home Improvement Store reviews in Saint Paul

A

Rating
We ordered a new queen size mattress and a split box spring (same price as a regular box spring) which are not available in the stores. Turnaround time was about two weeks from order to delivery. We scheduled a delivery date and the delivery guys arrived on time and delivered the mattress to our upstairs bedroom despite the very tight fit going up the stairs.
- DANIEL S.
B

Rating
Staff at service area desk in department provided advice on the appropriate materials to purchase for do-it-yourself concrete repairs. They were experienced and explained the differences between the different brands and types of concrete repair projects. I purchased the materials they recommended and did the concrete patching within a couple of weeks and was very satisfied with the results.
- CAROL S.
C

Rating
I had trouble getting help and advice. I stood at the counter while two guys chatted with each other and they both ignored me. I finally had to hunt down a supervisor to get someone to help me. They just showed me where the mortar was, but didn't have any suggestions/advice on what would be best to use when I asked for advice. (They said "anything will do.") I later found out I would could have used a different type of mortar that would have matched my stoop better.
- SUSIE K.
A

Rating
This is one of those great little neighborhood stores that is high on service, if not a huge store. They don't have the inventory of big box stores, but they are extremely attentive. They'll go out of their way to advise you and try to help you find something, or will offer to order something for you. When you really need advice on how to go about something or what to buy they really try hard. So even if they're not cheaper than the big chains, they give you more than your money's worth in service.
- SUSIE K.
A

Rating
The service at
Saint Paul Lumber Stores Provider Name Locked
is really the selling point here. The paint quality is always very good
Saint Paul Lumber Stores Provider Name Locked
paint, but it is the service that keeps me coming back. The sales staff really know what they are talking about. They will not only make sure you have the right paint, but they will follow you over to make sure you have the right rollers for each type of paint. The right primer and everything is guaranteed when you work with these true professionals (not part time students). Highly recommended.
- KERN N.
B

Rating
This
Saint Paul Lumber Stores Provider Name Locked
consistently beats out the pricing and selection of the ''big orange box'' home improvement store. For example, a propane refill here was almost half of what was charged elsewhere. The only two issues - the layout is a little confusing, and some of the staff don't seem to know where stuff is. And the parking lot entrance/exits are crowded. Head to the entrance north of the main one and you'll get in & out much easier.
- FRED H.
A

Rating
Saint Paul Lumber Stores Provider Name Locked
's designing department is way beyond meticulous, I can see now why its pretty hard for them to screw anything up, its almost painful the steps and re-steps they take. In the final analysis everything came out exactly right.
The actual selection, measuring and ordering process took 6 weeks, plus 5 more weeks to get the cabinets delivered. Once delivered they were installed in less than one day including demo and removing of some cabinetry.
I am not going to go into all the details but just let me say I am beyond picky and beyond precise,
Saint Paul Lumber Stores Provider Name Locked
kept up. In hind sight their price might have been a little high, but the cabinet quality was there.
The installation crew or guy from Crew2 was "total perfection"... this guy knew what he was doing, was efficient and cleaned up after himself. Again the charges might have been a little high, but the quality of the guys work could not have been better.
All total the job was about $3100 and if I hunted around I might have been able to save $400-$500, but not sure I could have been happier with the results.
- James C.

All Lumber Stores in Saint Paul, MN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

THOMES BROS

414 W MAIN ST
Arlington

Tilford Contracting

6530 Balsam LN N
Maple Grove

TIM'S SMALL ENGINE SVC

115 5TH AVE NW
Lonsdale

To the T Consruction

4335 Pheasant Ridge Dr.
Blaine

TRANSFORMATIONAL TOOLS

348 PRIOR AVE N
Saint Paul

TRI-CITY READY MIX

5950 COUNTY ROAD
Saint Cloud

TRI-COUNTY LUMBER

17383 COUNTY ROAD 75 NW
Clearwater

TRIED & TRUE TOOLS INC

7550 University Ave NE
Fridley

TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

527 MAIN ST
Henderson

TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

115 ASHLAND ST N
Cambridge

TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

129 BRIDGE AVE W
Delano

TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

2250 COMMERCE BLVD
Mound

TRUSTWORTHY HARDWARE

203 VALLEY GREEN SQ
Le Sueur

TWIN CITY NAIL SUPPLY

858 UNIVERSITY AVE W
Saint Paul

UFC FARM SUPPLY

801 State Highway 284
Waconia

UNDERGROUND TOOLS SUPPLY

6680 HODGSON RD
Circle Pines

UNITED BUILDING CTR

2915 ROOSEVELT RD
Saint Cloud

UNITED BUILDING CTR

128 8TH AVE NW
Faribault

UNITED BUILDING CTR

1101 SPIRAL BLVD
Hastings

UNITED BUILDING CTR

412 3RD ST E
Hastings

UNITED BUILDING CTR

9130 202ND ST W
Lakeville

UNITED BUILDING CTR

1650 WASHINGTON AVE S
Stillwater

UNITED BUILDING CTR

170 BROADWAY AVE S
Cokato

UNITED BUILDING CTR

135 MONROE ST SE
Hutchinson

UNITED BUILDING CTR

26229 FREMONT DR
Zimmerman

UNITED PRODUCTS CORP

21470 GRENADA AVE
Lakeville

UNITED PRODUCTS CORP

200 SYCAMORE ST W
Saint Paul

UNITED STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS

13661 BALSAM LN N
Dayton

URBAN'S ISANTI HARDWARE HANK

403 W DUAL BLVD
Isanti

US DIAMOND

530 CLEVELAND AVE N
Saint Paul

USA HARDWARE

6960 MADISON AVE W
Minneapolis

VALLEY ENTERPRISES INC

1600 Florida Ave N
Minneapolis

VALLEY HARDWOOD FLOORING

1114 FIG ST NE
Lonsdale

VALLEY LAWN & SPORT INC

16345 KENYON AVE
Lakeville

VICKERMAN CONSTRUCTION INC

2526 24TH AVE S
Minneapolis

VITAL NUTRITIONANCE

8441 WAYZATA BLVD
Minneapolis

WALLBOARD INC

207 DUNDAS RD
Monticello

WATERTOWN DO IT BEST HARDWARE

300 LEWIS AVE S
Watertown

WATERWORKS

60 Backus Ave

WBL Home Improvement

4550 Evergreen Dr

WEDGE LUMBER

PO Box 96
Mantorville

WELNA ACE HARDWARE II

2201 E FRANKLIN AVE
Minneapolis

WENNER DO IT BEST HARDWARE

319 MAIN ST
Cold Spring

WENNER'S DO IT BEST HARDWARE

65 MAIN ST E
Richmond

WGLC COMMERCIAL EQUIPMENT

PO Box 359
Long Lake

WHIRLTRONICS INC

208 CENTENNIAL DR
Buffalo

White Bear Rentals & Sales

3865 HWY 61
Saint Paul

WILSON HARDWARE

1015 1/2 10th St E
Glencoe

WINROC DRYWALL SUPPLIES

10720 MANKATO ST NE
Minneapolis

WINSTED HARDWARE

161 MAIN AVE W
Winsted

WIRTHCO ENGINEERING INC

7449 CAHILL RD
Minneapolis

WOODMASTER LUMBER CO

11327 W RIVER RD
Champlin

WOODY'S TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

4188 LANCASTER LN N
Minneapolis

WRIGHT LUMBER & MILLWORK INC

901 CENTRAL AVE
Buffalo

WYOMING ACE HARDWARE

26583 FOREST BLVD
Wyoming

YOUNGBLOOD LUMBER

1335 CENTRAL AVE NE
Minneapolis

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Saint Paul Zip Codes

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