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"Grant was very professional from the first time I made initial contact with him over the phone. He was very knowledgeable when presenting answers to my questions." He answered and/or returned my phone calls promptly an made himself available to meet me for the inspection of my home when it was most convenient for me. Upon arriving, he was prompt, easy to talk to, and very thorough. He wasn't rushed and took time to explain the process of what he was doing and any work that might need to be done. Though I have not had any work done by him yet (as it's only been 1 day since our first meeting), he is the type of contractor that I would look for to do business with.

-Sharon T.

" thoroughly looked over the walls of our basement and discussed different options for removing the mold and preventing future growth. He seemed" very knowledgeable and honest in his assessment. While we are going to try to tackle this project ourselves (we thought it was a bigger issue than it turned out to be having previously had black mold), I would not hesitate to have and his team provide their service if we end up needing it or for larger future projects.

-Stephanie H.

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Local Articles in Saint Louis

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

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Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Saint Louis


The technician, Grant was courteous, respectful and very friendly, easy to talk to. I would recommend him to associates in the future.
- Sheila L.

Grant was professional and gave me an excellent rate for the services provided. He was very informative and respon sive. Even with all the rain we've had, I thought it would take a while for him to come to my house to offer suggestions, he was there within a day. And able to start performing work the next day.
- Ellen A.

It went very well. The young man was very professional. He tested the mold, identified it then sprayed it to correct the problem.
- Fred and Barb F.

was very responsive both in providing the bid and working with the other scheduled improvements in the basement. He brought an air scrubber to the building before other contractors had to work in the basement to make it a little healthier for them. Then on the day he was to work he arrived on time, ready to work, worked longer ...More than he expected to (by a few hours) but did not ask for additional money. The job he did was very well done and no mess was left behind. All mold smell is gone from the basement and the building is a much healthier place thanks to .
- Patricia T.

Excellent in all respects. responded to my online request email within just a few hours. When I called the next day he scheduled an appointment for the next day. He called ahead of the appointment to confirm and arrived on time. He arrived well prepared to evaluate the house and was able to completely answer all of my questions. ...More He took air samples; one in the basement and one outside as baseline comparison. The samples were evaluated by an independent lab which makes me confident of the results. I am thoroughly please with this companies service and performance.
- RON S.

I contacted three companies that are mold removal and cleaning specialist. was the least expensive and most responsive. In addition, their customer service was top notch. The crew leader called me several times to follow up to make sure everything went smoothly. I would definitely recommend them to anybody.
- jason G.

I took advantage of Angie's List free home inspection for mold and water. was to arrive at noon and called and asked if he could arrive at 11:30 which was fine. My husband and I were both home for the inspection and boy did we learn a lot. We felt that was very knowledgeable. He reassured us that ...More we don't have a big mold problem. He also gave us a list of things that we could do to improve the humidity and keep our basement from forming a mold problem in the future. we've already completed all but one of 's recommendations. This company also does air duct cleaning which is why I initially joined Agie's List. There are tons of scams out there regarding air duct cleaning. I wanted to find a reputible company to provide this service. After working through the mold inspection with , we feel that will provide us with a good air duct cleaning. We plan to schedule that with them very soon.
- Peggy G.

was very friendly and polite. His report was very thorough and to read. I recommend him for collecting air samples to evaluate the air quality in your home.
- Ryan S.

Mold Removal Experts in Saint Louis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

5 Star Construction

1964 farm valley dr

7 Oaks Home Inspection LLC

7827 Hwy N
O Fallon


PO Box 674

Act Fast Water Restoration, LLC

913 Peace Haven Drive
Saint Louis

Adare Remodeling LLC

208 forest path dr
Saint Peters

Advanced Environmental Services Inc

3100 Gravois Ave
Saint Louis

AdvantaClean of Two Rivers

647 Bennington Drive
Saint Charles

American Environmental Laboratories LLC

3441 Morgan Ford Rd
Saint Louis

ARC Construction

2319 Grissom Dr.
St. Louis


3431 Tenbrook rd

At Your Service Painting and Drywall

807 Haven Street
St. Louis

August Contracting, LLC

2846 Shenadoah
Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Bio-Absolute Inc

4401 Ridgewood Ave
St Louis

Bioclean 911

656 Hickory Knoll Ct

BOLT Construction & Roofing

748 Hanley Industrial Ct
Saint Louis


2035 Delmar Blvd
Saint Louis


Saint Louis


315 Lemay Ferry Rd Ste 112
Saint Louis


5303 hwy kk
Saint Peters

Certified Safety Consulting, LLC

3921 Connecticut St
Saint Louis

Clog Commandos

11835 Westline Industrial Drive
St. Louis

Colgate Design+Build

12444 Powerscourt Dr.
Saint Louis

Danna Enterprises LLC

1900 Grand Army Rd

Demand Remodeling & Restoration

10723 Baur Blvd
St. Louis

Douglas Restoration

Lake St Louis

Edge Testing Service

17 Junction Dr #241


1819 Belt Way Dr
Saint Louis

Gateway Home Inspection Services

5356 Southview Hills Ct
St Louis

GENNARO General Contracting

Saint Louis

Get it Done

7045 Lena Ave
Saint Louis

Greener Construction Svc

6290 Ronald Reagan Dr
Lake Saint Louis

Gregory Building Services

13765 St. Charles Rock Road

HG Properties Consultants

8036 S. Lafayette

Home Inspection All Star St. Louis

6022 S. Lindbergh Blvd
St. Louis


Saint Louis

HouseMaster Home Inspections

4020 Green Mount Crossing Dr

Inspect MO


JSR Home Repairs

Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Kiethline Enterprises LLC

3 Donna Drive
Saint Peters

Lafayette Construction

3000 S. Jefferson
Saint Louis


Saint Louis

md painting

Maryland Heights

Midwest Environmental & Asbestos Removal

5402 Magnolia Ave.

Midwest Flood Restoration

4328 S Lindbergh Blvd
Saint Louis

Midwest Service Group

560 Turner Blvd
Saint Peters


2344 Weldon Pkwy
Saint Louis


2501 Mayes Road

Moldman - St. Louis

4579 Laclede Ave
St Louis

Nutech Restoration Services

107 Boone Hills
St. Peters

Paragon Certified Restoration

616 Spirit Valley E Dr

Premier Restoration Services LLC

132 Workman Court

Pride Cleaning & Restoration, Inc.

2437 Lemp Ave
Saint Louis

Pro Basement Finishers

301 Cuivre Point Dr
Moscow Mills


10450 Thorpe Ave
Saint Louis

Prodigy Restoration Group LLC

100 Chesterfield Business Pkwy


11939 MANCHESTER RD. #118
Saint Louis


5750 Pernod Ave
Saint Louis

Quality Home Services LLC

5819 Willow Springs Rd
House Springs

Rainbow Intl. of St.Charles

2566 Forst Drive

Rapid Dry

11252 Midland Blvd
St. Louis


2 Forest Park Cir
Lake St. Louis

Rivercrest Restoration

102 Branding Iron Dr

SERVPRO of Affton/Webster Groves

9610 Continental Industrial Dr

SERVPRO of Clayton/Ladue

3924 Shrewsbury Avenue
St. Louis

SERVPRO of Oakville/Mehlville

5320 Lemay Ferry St.
St. Louis

Servpro of S.Chesterfield / Wildwood

167 Lamp & Lantern Village 290

Spectrum Cleaning and Restoration

1505 Fenpark Dr


Saint Louis

STL Home Inspection Services

3002 S. Jefferson Ave
Saint Louis

Storm Shield

7 The Pines Ct
St Louis

The Flood Company

1 Balaji Ct

Two Nice Guys Termite & Pest Control

PO Box 515026
Saint Louis

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Water Leak Specialist

14 Apple Tree dr.
Saint Peters

Water Mold & Fire St. Louis

3958 Randall Street
St. Louis


1679 Springdale Blvd


1216 Ranworth Dr


Saint Louis

Woodard Cleaning & Restoration Services

9308 Manchester Rd.
Saint Louis

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