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"Grant was professional and gave me an excellent rate for the services provided. He was very informative and respon sive. Even with all the rain we've had," I thought it would take a while for him to come to my house to offer suggestions, he was there within a day. And able to start performing work the next day.

-Ellen A.

"It went very well. The young man was very professional. He tested the mold, identified it then sprayed it to correct the problem.

-Fred and Barb F.

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Local Articles in Saint Louis


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Saint Louis


Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very responsive both in providing the bid and working with the other scheduled improvements in the basement. He brought an air scrubber to the building before other contractors had to work in the basement to make it a little healthier for them. Then on the day he was to work he arrived on time, ready to work, worked longer than he expected to (by a few hours) but did not ask for additional money. The job he did was very well done and no mess was left behind. All mold smell is gone from the basement and the building is a much healthier place thanks to
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
- Patricia T.

Excellent in all respects.
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
responded to my online request email within just a few hours. When I called the next day he scheduled an appointment for the next day. He called ahead of the appointment to confirm and arrived on time. He arrived well prepared to evaluate the house and was able to completely answer all of my questions. He took air samples; one in the basement and one outside as baseline comparison. The samples were evaluated by an independent lab which makes me confident of the results. I am thoroughly please with this companies service and performance.
- RON S.

I contacted three companies that are mold removal and cleaning specialist.
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was the least expensive and most responsive. In addition, their customer service was top notch. The crew leader called me several times to follow up to make sure everything went smoothly. I would definitely recommend them to anybody.
- jason G.

I took advantage of Angie's List free home inspection for mold and water.
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was to arrive at noon and called and asked if he could arrive at 11:30 which was fine. My husband and I were both home for the inspection and boy did we learn a lot. We felt that
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very knowledgeable. He reassured us that we don't have a big mold problem. He also gave us a list of things that we could do to improve the humidity and keep our basement from forming a mold problem in the future. we've already completed all but one of
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's recommendations. This company also does air duct cleaning which is why I initially joined Agie's List. There are tons of scams out there regarding air duct cleaning. I wanted to find a reputible company to provide this service. After working through the mold inspection with
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
, we feel that
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
will provide us with a good air duct cleaning. We plan to schedule that with them very soon.
- Peggy G.

Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very friendly and polite. His report was very thorough and
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
to read. I recommend him for collecting air samples to evaluate the air quality in your home.
- Ryan S.

Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
, the owner , is very knowledgeable and committed to customer satisfaction. His attention to detail and tireless effort to complete the work made him a pleasure to do business with for this project. Integrity, honesty, and going the extra mile for the customer are all rare qualities found these days in most companies and
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
possesses all of these. The quality of work was A+. BioClean911, a true standout in this line of work.
- Noreen G.

Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came out and looked at the situation. I had already been running a dehumidifier in the area and had sealed off the issue causing the water seepage. He said that the situation was very minor, and that while he would definitely write up a quote, it was something that we could take care of ourselves with the right tools. He suggested what we might purchase at the store if we wanted to go that route.
It's reassuring to me that there are still really honest business people out there who will not just try to sell you something that you don't need.
Saint Louis Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
definitely earned my respect for this, and they will be the only ones I would contact if I needed anything in the future.
Thanks again!
- Jason E.

Very professional. The job was very contained which was great since we have young children. I would definitely recommend them. Very happy with all interactions I had with this company.
- Sean D.

Mold Removal Experts in Saint Louis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7 Oaks Home Inspection LLC

7827 Hwy N
O Fallon

A-Flood Control

PO Box 339


5829 W END PL


PO Box 674

Absolute Clean

103 S. State St.

Action Water Damage STL

36 Brushy Brook Ct
O Fallon

Advanced Environmental Services Inc

3100 Gravois Ave
Saint Louis

American Environmental Laboratories LLC

3441 Morgan Ford Rd
Saint Louis


3431 Tenbrook rd

August Contracting, LLC

2846 Shenadoah
Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Bioclean 911

656 Hickory Knoll Ct

BOLT Construction & Roofing

748 Hanley Industrial Ct
Saint Louis


2035 Delmar Blvd
Saint Louis




Saint Louis


2685 Metro Blvd
Maryland Heights


315 Lemay Ferry Rd Ste 112
Saint Louis


5303 hwy kk
Saint Peters

Certified Safety Consulting, LLC

3921 Connecticut St
Saint Louis


1904 E. Service Road 61N Suite 103

Clog Commandos

11835 Westline Industrial Drive
St. Louis

Colgate Design+Build

12444 Powerscourt Dr.
Saint Louis

Crossroads Inspection Services, llc

223 Meadowbrook Heights Dr

Danna Enterprises LLC

1900 Grand Army Rd

Dave's Handyman Svc

615 College Ave

Demand Remodeling & Restoration

10723 Baur Blvd
St Louis

E L Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

Edge Testing Service

17 Junction Dr #241




7185 Manchester Rd
Saint Louis

Fast Help of Farmington

PO Box 1029


2618 Samuel Drive
O Fallon

Ganser Co Inc

1906 W Beltline Hwy

Gateway Home Inspection Services

5356 Southview Hills Ct
St Louis

GENNARO General Contracting

Saint Louis

Get it Done

7045 Lena Ave
Saint Louis

Greener Construction Svc

6290 Ronald Reagan Dr
Lake Saint Louis

Heartland Building Inspections

2800 Anchor Drive

Home Inspection All Star St. Louis

6022 S. Lindbergh Blvd
St. Louis


Saint Louis


17209 Chesterfield Airport Road

HouseMaster Home Inspections

4020 Green Mount Crossing Dr

Inspect MO


Inspection Pros of St Louis LLC

Sunset Hills
St Louis

JSR Home Repairs

Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Kiethline Enterprises LLC

3 Donna Drive
Saint Peters

KMI Construction Industries LLC

13765 St Charles Rock Rd

Lafayette Construction

3000 S. Jefferson
Saint Louis


Saint Louis

md painting

Maryland Heights


7609 140Th Pl NE

Midwest Flood Restoration

4328 S Lindbergh Blvd
Saint Louis

Midwest Service Group

560 Turner Blvd
Saint Peters


2344 Weldon Pkwy
Saint Louis


2501 Mayes Road

Moore Contracting Services, LLc

504 Arbor Ln
Saint Clair

Paragon Certified Restoration

616 Spirit Valley E Dr

Pro Clean Restoration & Floor Care

133 Triad Ctr W
O Fallon


10450 Thorpe Ave
Saint Louis


100 Chesterfield Business Parkway


11939 MANCHESTER RD. #118
Saint Louis


5750 Pernod Ave
Saint Louis


Saint Charles

Quality Home Inspection Services

7601 Alicia Ave
St. Louis

Quality Home Services LLC

5819 Willow Springs Rd
House Springs

Rainbow Intl. of St.Charles

2566 Forst Drive

Rainbow Intl. Of St.Charles

2566 Forst Dr
O Fallon

Rapid Dry LLC

11252 Midland Blvd
St. Louis


2 Forest Park Cir
Lake St. Louis

Reliable Remodeling LLC

2704 Park Ave
Saint Charles

Rent A Handy Husband

420 Oakmont Cir

Rivercrest Restoration

102 Branding Iron Dr

Servpro of Festus / Hillsboro

7120 Valley Dr

SERVPRO of Oakville/Mehlville

5320 Lemay Ferry St.
St. Louis

Servpro of S.Chesterfield / Wildwood

167 Lamp & Lantern Village 290

SkunkWorks OST

1675 Fairmount Dr

Spectrum Cleaning and Restoration

1505 Fenpark Dr


Saint Louis

STL Home Inspection Services

3002 S. Jefferson Ave
Saint Louis

Stonebridge Roofing

12520D Olive Blvd 133
Saint Louis

The Flood Company

1 Balaji Ct


PO BOX 515026
Saint Louis

Water Leak Specialist

14 Apple Tree dr.
Saint Peters


1679 Springdale Blvd


1216 Ranworth Dr


Saint Louis

Woodard Cleaning & Restoration Services

9308 Manchester Rd.
Saint Louis

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